Brett Barrow

You're right that you can't always trust resto's, but there are some people that I will always take their word on it. Muscle Car Review is my favorite 1:1 mag because they only feature top-notch period-correct restorations and survivors, and if something is wrong or goes against convention, they'll usually make a note of it in the article. I just wish they would get with the 20th Century and get a website!

Save your Bel Airs, nothing beats a 210. Nothing. Especially a 210 Gasser!(Got something similar in 1/25 in the works) A 150 Utility with a 283ci/245hp dual-quad comes close though. (I'll be doing this in 1/25 one of these days years.

MORE!!!!!?!?!??!?!???? Can't make out that link in the corner!

Too many, but still not enough.

Muscle Car Review ran a Charger issue in Nov. '08. One article was a '68-'69 Charger Spotter Guide, which featured 2 Charger R/T's, both auto's, and both restored by acknowledged Charger expert Phil LaChappelle. Here is the photo comparing engine compartments. Let your conscience be your guide edit - forgot to mention - scalefinishes has Chrysler Turquoise - http://scalefinishes.com/engine.html And the Plymouth equivalent of "Magnum" is "Super Commando"

Stock photo sites have them. Try iStockPhoto, StockPhoto Pro, BigStockPhoto, etc... they should have categories for line-art or illustrations, or vector art.

Japanese kits are not usually wrapped, unless it's by their importer. I've always heard that Japanese modelers will not buy a kit without opening it at the shop and making sure everything's in the box and correct. Everything I've ever bought straight out of Japan was unwrapped.

This is the #1 Deuce on my Things-to-Build-Before-I-Die List. I'll be watching this one!

Gunze kit is also curbside, a very finicky curbside at that, and folks should be able to find the SM kit for less than MSRP, I know I can at least. If the Gunze kit goes upward of $125+shipping then the SM kit is probably going to be cheaper at street price, plus the SM kit has race decals, so factor in the cost of a decal sheet. I've read David Thibodeau's review of the SM kit was looking for other opinions from folks who own or have built the kit. BTW, there's a Gunze CDC on that famous auction site right now, $50 starting bid + $20 shipping, 0 bids.

Some really nice work you got going on. This deserves a ^^^^BUMP^^^^

Those wheels look nasty Why are there large Cragar "sponsor" decals on the decal sheet, but they can't do the wheels right? I commented I would like to see center cap decals, but I wasn't speculating they were on the kit sheet, just the large Cragar decals.

I make 'em. I use different materials depending on whether I need them firm or soft. I make the stick from balsa, sheet plastic, or brass strip. The paper can be stuck on with spray glue, multiple layers of golf grip tape, or double-sided foam tape, each gives more flex to the paper. Store-bought sanding sticks can be hard to cut without tearing the paper, if you have access to a belt sander or bench grinder, you can sand/grind them to shape.

Anyone have an opinion on the Scale Motorsport resin kit? Seems like the bargain basement winner at MSRP $150.

<bump> July releases are hitting shelves now. Viper SRT10 ACR VW Samba Bus Roth Outlaw

Not me!!! A bone-"stock" Huggar Orange Yenko Camaro is way high on my Things-to-Build-Before-I-Die list. Been planning one for a while, but wasn't sure if the stripes would be black or white, now I have the 1:1 to go by! Don't know about that vinyl roof, though

Mr Obsessive's "1955 Ford Fairlane Victoria WIP" thread leads On the Workbench with 36,000+ views, you're in second place with 26,000+ ****BUT**** Your thread leads On the Workbench in replies with 614!

I should have worded it better! Here's a better, but still low quality, view of the decals: Please note that many of the decals are metallic gold, but it shows up brown when scanned.

No, no, no!!!! My scan of the decals is low quality, so folks don't try printing them!!!! New decals are the best things in the kit, besides the picture book. The kits will be out individually in regular boxes, but for $24.95ea, so if you want both you might as well buy the tin. I'm not sure what will not be in the individual kits, the book and the cut-outs I would imagine, and possibly smaller decal sheets. They haven't said yet.

Don't speak Japanese, but I'm learning to read it. I went back to the videos and translated some of the text(I should have done that in the first place instead of guessing ) yep it's solder ステンドグラス用 - sutendogurasuyō - for use with stained glass 糸ハンダ - ito handa - "thread" solder - don't know what "thread solder" is exactly, but ハンダ - handa - definitely means solder, maybe thread means it's straight, not on a roll? The second line of text on the tubs is シリコーンゴム - shirikōngomu - silicone rubber, so some sort of thick silicone putty is exactly what it is. And as for the material the tank is carved from - The second line is ケミカルウッド - kemikaru - chemical, uddo - wood, so "chemical wood" which is some sort of processed wood and resin product, DenaBlock was one brand name that came up http://www.tagiya.co.jp/customer/denablock.htm It's definitely the same type of engineered carving material as Ren-shape or BalsaFoam.

It could be solder, but lots of solder has a higher melting point than white metal (~270-300°F), so maybe it's low-temp?

The decals are brand new, they are corrected and expanded from what was in the original kits, and really are the "stars of the show" in this re-issue. Other issues of the kits had parts numbering, but this time they used the original instructions, from before the numbers were added to the sprue. The kits are so simple it's not really an issue, I don't see anything that could get mixed up that isn't noted on the instructions, in fact some parts that are different left to right have the same part number, so it wouldn't have helped anyway! Nostalgia seems to be driving the kit industry right now, and maybe it is more about the collector than the builder right now, but if re-issues like this fuel brand new tooling a couple of years down the road then I'm all for it.

I got my kit today, and wouldn't you know it, I lent SWMBO my camera for her weekend getaway!!!! I did manage to scan the box tin top, well, I had to merge two scans together, it's too big for my scanner, plus I scanned the instructions, the decals (low quality scan of course http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/emoticons/default_biggrin.png' alt=':D'> ) the cover of the photo booklet, and the cardboard cut-outs. They're on my Fotki click here The photo booklet is nice, there are about 40 different pictures, most in color, of the two cars, some publicity stills, others "behind-the-scenes" type shots. There are a few more photos on the tin sides which are not in the booklet, a nice touch I thought. The kits are molded in white plastic with chrome and clear parts. The tires are white plastic, and include "Firestone" lettering on the sidewalls. It should be easy to sand the lettering after painting to reveal the white letters, much easier than trying to paint them. These kits are rather crude by today's standards, but appear to be rather simple and should be easy to assemble. I've never built either of these, so I don't really know if any of the tooling has been changed for this issue. The instructions appear to be reproductions of the originals, and do not have part numbers on them, however, the sprues do have part numbers! I'll post some photos of the kit parts when I get my camera back!

I've worked in the hobby industry for almost 10 years now, I tell everyone the same thing when they ask about rumored kits: "I'll believe it when I see it". Doesn't matter, even if it's in a catalog, on a website, in a trade show booth, etc... it doesn't exist until production kits are on the shelves. I have a fairly regular customer who still asks about that AccMin 289 Cobra everytime I see him, now he's bugging me about the Cobra Daytona. I just tell him the same thing, "Don't believe it until you see it!!!"

I'm sorry, I've only popped in a couple of times the last few days, I didn't notice anyone responded. #1 - I think that's Silicone Putty, which you can sometimes find at craft stores, folks even use it for making candy molds - http://www.clayalley.com/goop.htm - someone says in the comments it's like Green Stuff or Duro, but I don't think so. Silicone Putty is much different. #2 - The metal looks like plain ol' white metal, you could use metal gaming figures if you can't find it in raw form, maybe you know someone into Warhammer or 40K or that kind of stuff who might have some spares. #3 - I can't tell exactly what that material is, it looks like wood, but it doesn't appear to have a grain. It could be some type of engineering material like Renshape, or just some very finely grained Japanese version of basswood.

The '37 Chevy was one of the first exclusive kits we did, I'd say it's been close to 5 years ago! I want to say there was also a Buyer's Choice issue of this kit from AMT/Ertl/RC2 either shortly before or shortly after we did our run, I wouldn't think it would be that hard to find, I'm surprised there's none on Ebay.