Brett Barrow

Wheels* and tires look really good. I was half expecting the solid slicks from the Thunderbolt or those wimpy hollow slicks from the 68 Firebird and 69 Nova. *edit - now that I've re-read the original post I think Bill has swapped the kit wheels for wheels from another kit.

I think climate and location have a lot to do with how spray cans perform, and where I am, those are the results I get, and have gotten for years. Tamiya, out of the can, orange peels a little. Nothing a little 3600 can't fix, but it's there. If I had to live without an airbrush, I could live with Tamiya cans. Testor's cans are just too unpredictable, so I don't bother, always decant and airbrush.

(Both quotes edited from original posts) Totally agree w/ Bob 110% I've been known to do the "Tamiya Two-Step", which is decanting and airbrushing the first few mist coats until I have solid coverage, then doing the final wet-coats with the spray can. But since I got an airbrush that can really lay down some nice controllable wet coats (both my Badger Anthem 155 and Iwata Revolution BCS are good for this) I haven't done it for a while. The Tamiya cans tend to give a little orange peel, and you couldn't pay me to get near a model with a Testor's spray can, though I do like their paint, especially the Lacquer line.

Both of those paints have been discontinued a very long time, Polly "S" almost 20 years, and the Polly Scale Metallines about 15. (1)Vallejo 865 Oily Steel might be a good candidate, it looks a lot like my chip of #501999 Metalline Graphite. (2)FS# 36622 Gray is now shown as #505394 US Tac Lt. Gray in the Polly Scale line.

No problem, I spent about half an hour last night trying various search terms, digging through my history, etc... I swore I saw it here, too! Then I sat down to lunch this afternoon and thumbed through my SA, and BAM!!! there it was!

Ummmmm..... It's in the Tips & Tech section of this month's issue of that "other" magazine

Here's a bit of inspiration: And pics of the restoration: http://www.musclecarrestorations.com/gallery2/v/Chrysler/Completed/Dodge-Dart-68-000/

Rainbow swirlies in the headlight covers: Etching in windows: I thought for sure this thing was real!!!!

It looks like the cross ram is in there(see pic). Maybe Len can post a few more sprue shots and the rest of the box art?

Somebody just started a thread in "on the workbench" about Spazstix

That's why enamel works under Alclad Chrome, it eats into it and bonds with it. It'll disappear if you use lacquer. The solvents are mild enough not to craze or wrinkle the enamel. They've been making this stuff for like 20 years now, they've got it figured out. Follow the directions to the letter and it'll all come out nice.

Warning, they wanted to hit me up for $14 shipping on a $12 bottle. Any hobby shop that buys from Great Planes will be able to get it for you. Or you could try their retail site, towerhobbies.com

Totally agreed! I have both editions, my 1st ed is very worn and dog-eared, and the 2nd is gaining ground fast.

That looks great! I hope mine comes out half as nice!!!!

OOH, I just got some inspiration for mine! Is that Code K Meridian Turquoise? Might have to hit up Scalefinishes.com and move mine up the pile!

I like the one Tim Boyd did in that other magazine a while back -

How about the lacquer line's Honduras Maroon or Toreador Red? They might come close. I haven't used enamels for a long time, I have used the lacquers with good results, though not these two colors. I would definitely use lacquer thinner to thin the enamel bottle paint, if I was using them again, that seems the best way to get consistent results with enamels.

If you want to scrape it out, I'd get on of these - the Micro Chisel from Mission Models(dotcom).

I would just add a flat plate from sheet styrene over the molded numbers, or, even simpler, you could just leave the decal on its backing paper and glue it to the bumper.

Here's the complete series list with links to the videos on youtube. http://sl-blag.blogspot.com/2007/11/gunpla-tutorial-videos.html

I don't care if you pay 50 cents or 50 dollars* for a proper paint stand, it will be the best money you ever spend on car modeling. And the Tamiya stand is suhweet! *Ok maybe not 50 bucks, but whether you build your own or buy one, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it.

All I can get out of them is that they should have at least a test-shot at iHobby Expo, if not a production kit. iHobby is at the end of October.

The '48 Ford coupe is supposed to be something along the lines of the Revell '49 Merc, now I wouldn't mind a not-totally-stock mild custom or hot rod, but I would rather have a stock-height body, which the concept drawings clearly were not. There's a big difference in the custom world between a '48 Ford and a '49 Merc, if you know what I mean?