Dave Ambrose

Thanks. This is one of my favorite cars.

A staysail schooner, nice. Gonna follow this one. If the models are anything like the real ones, any time you spend getting the frames just right will pay you back tenfold by the end of the project. It's a principle I've followed on a lot of projects, and it seems to be very true, almost regardless of context.

Recently, it seems that motion gifs for avatars has become A Thing(tm). Please do NOT use any flashing avatars. They can induce seizures in epileptics, Yes, this really is a problem. I've seen it and had to fix the errant software. If we see any of them, we will remove them immediately. Please do not put them back. Smooth motion is OK. Thanks, Dave Ambrose

Looks like he forgot to renew his domain and it got hijacked.

That shouldn't happen. What type of device are you using to read the site? Is anyone else having this problem?

I've run into problems with the air supply pulsing when using a diaphragm compressor and no air tank. The tank doesn't have to be large, but you need may very well find you need something.

I stopped using that stuff altogether. Could never get it capped tightly enough. I switched to the Gorilla Glue CA in the little tubes. They seal up tight and the glue stays good until the glue runs out, assuming I don't leave the cap off.

I've been using India ink applied with a Speedball quill pen. Doesn't matter what paint chemistry you're using, as it's a straight solution of bootblack in water. There's no vehicle (binder) to react. I usually apply it after primer, and before paint.

I'm sorry to hear about your cat. It's so hard to say that final goodbye. They insinuate themselves into your life, and in my case, the hobby table too.

I heartily approve. Love the D-Types. That's a very nice looking kit.

I've noticed that the Sci-fi section (including Gundams) at my local hobby shop has been growing, mostly at the expense of armor, but also airplanes. Model cars have stayed about the same, but this is Southern California. We have a thriving car culture. Sci-fi and Gundam modelers tend to be a lot younger than your average IPMS meeting too. That's clearly where the market is heading, and seems to be where the development dollars are flowing. Moebius released a couple of super nice kits with the Proteus, and Discovery. Automotive subjects generally have very good coverage. Some are probably way overdone, but still popular. There's a robust secondary market, which eats into sales of new kits. I suspect your typical model car practitioner has a large kit stash and will only be selectively buying new kits. We're to a point where the things people really want are somewhat esoteric and are never going to be very popular. Moebius is a business first, and the development money follows the sales.

A reminder from your friendly neighborhood moderator. Please keep it civil. That is all.

The description on the main page makes allowance for questions as well. This certainly qualifies as a question.

Uh yeah, I'm half tempted to lock this thread now. Suffice it to say that Reliable Resin doesn't enjoy a good reputation. There have been plenty of threads on the subject on this board and elsewhere. I recommend that you check those before you order anything.

I've been using a 5$ piece of granite counter top tile as a poor man's surface plate. It's flat enough, and it doesn't readily break or shatter.

I have British cars. They seem to need a lot of brake fluid. So, I generally use DOT 3 or 4. Works well, and doesn't attack the plastic. Get a large bottle of the cheapest stuff you can find. It seems to remove most any paint. You might have to scrub some of the paint in the panel lines out with a toothbrush. Denatured alcohol will clean off the residual brake fluid. Do NOT get the DOT 5 brake fluid. It's silicone and won't do a thing to paint.

Hi Joe, welcome to our community. Your builds look very nice. I hope you feel free to share more.

I like that color! It looks great with the flames.

If you really want quiet, a CO2, or SCUBA tank is the way to go. You can do a lot of airbrushing with one, and they're totally silent. The downside is that you have to get them refilled, inspected, and hydro'ed every 5 years. SCUBA shops can be hard to find in some parts of the country. Whatever compressor you get, make sure it has a tank. The diaphragm compressors will pulse when you have the airbrush wide open. It's not a very attractive look. The small compressors with a 2 gallon tank have plenty of capacity for an airbrush, and are good for other things around the house too. I power my airbrush with the same compressor that runs the rest of my shop tools, with some additional filtering and regulation. It has a large tank, so I run it until the tank is at working pressure, then shut it off. That way, I don't get any blips in the paint when it turns on. (It's pretty noisy)

I sent you a PM. As a general rule, please send me a screen shot with the web address (URL). This should help us figure out what's going on. Thanks, Dave Ambrose

There are actually a couple of Aimee Mann covers: I actually like this version better than the original. She also did an awesome cover of Free Man in Paris. She delivered an amazing performance at the Belly Up in Solana Beach, then we went to her performance at the Hollywood Bowl the following week. Unfortunately, I can't find a good recording of her performance, which is too bad. She's one of the few that can do that song justice.

I use this for drilling in plastic. https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-92-Swivel-Head/dp/B000BQW5XS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518405131&sr=8-2&keywords=general+pin+vise It works well and handles drills down to #80. I recommend high speed steel drills if you're drilling by hand. Carbide drills snap rather than bend, and they're best used in a milling machine or a drill press. That said, they work extremely well.

There should be no limit on attachments, either number or total size. Please PM me if that resolves your problem, but don't go too deep with that purge.

A couple of people, who made a lot of good contributions would delete their constructive and valuable content as a means of revenge for being reprimanded for bad behavior. Being able to delete a thread means you're also deleting other people's contributions, which isn't fair either. If you ever think your thread needs to go, just report it to the moderator with a comment.

I generally use 30 ga kynar insulated wire wrap wire. You can clamp one end in a vise and pull on the wire with pliers until it just gives a little. That straightens it, and you don't get the kinky wire look. Same method might work with the wire you're using.