LoneWolf15

Excellent call , Mr Jones ! I do believe you are correct !

C'mon Tinman ! As in Stroke Artists !!!!!

The way that some things go around here at times , I think the problem lies in the exact opposite condition !

Virgil ! You know The Old Man's rule about food and modeling ! Dey don't mix ! Lol! If I'd have seen this early on , you would have had a Primanti Special waiting on your doorstep this morning ! Beat ya outta the gate on this one , I've been foggin' up the neighborhood since Wednesday morning with paint fumes . Whole lotta parts and a couple of bodies in color . Tomorrow morning , I'll be back at it again ! Have fun , guys ! The Old Man

Happy Birthday , Buddy !

Soak the model with water , put it in a zip lock bag and put it in your freezer for a couple of days . This will break some or all of the glue joints loose . The stubborn ones ... You'll have to carefully cut them / pry them apart with your hobby knife .

John , Wrap the car in toilet paper , size to side , end to end , don't be shy , use alot of it ! Now roll it in bubble wrap , gently ! Lower it into a sturdy box and then stuff the outside space with newspaper , peanuts , paper towel , etc ! You are now good to go !

We'll see you there , Old Timer ! Lol !

You can achieve the same results with a sharp no 11 xacto blade ! Trick is to shave of a little bit at a time and make sure you stay with the curve . Once you have a round shape , take a strip of 220 grit sand paper as wide as your tire , drape it over the tire rough side up , put it in the wheelwell and turn it the entire length of the radius , back and forth !

Sorry ! I know it's Rob , not Ron ! Lmao !

Ron , This can be done with Testors gloss white enamel straight out of the bottle , I do it all the time ! Sharp pointed brush and a little bit of patience and finesse will get you where you want to be !

Stu and Nico , A very simple way to enlarge your wheel wells ! Take your rear tire and hold it against the side of your body , centering it in the existing wheel well, making sure that it is at the height that you want it . Take a sharp lead pencil and trace along the outside edge of your tire . Repeat on the opposite side of the car taking care that both sides are of the same height from the top of the quarter panel to the top of your drawn line ! Now all you have to do is grind out on the inside of the line with your Dremel tool , be patient ! Set the tool on medium speed and grind off a little bit at a time until you are even with your drawn line . Sand and smooth your edges , and there you have it , radiused wheel wells with no fuss , swearing , or pulling your hair out ! One other point , if you make a mistake when drawing your lines with the pencil , simply erase them and start over !

Stu , I didn't catch this , maybe it's not too late ! On this particular kit , the rear end is too wide . When the body is slipped onto the chassis , the rear tires have a tendency to rub on the inside of the quarter panels and prevent the body from sliding down into it's proper position . A very simple solution to the problem is to cut the rear end off on both sides even at the outside edge of the rear shackles . You will also have to trim the metal axle down to size . Be sure to leave yourself enough of the axle to remount your rear tires through the holes in the backing plates. This will solve your problem ! Sorry I didn't see this Build sooner , would have prevented you from having to do a bit of disassembly !

Simple solution ... Move in closer with your airbrush , you are shooting from too far away . Your problem with the graininess or sandlike texture is a result of your paint drying before it reaches the surface of your models's body .

Two points to add .... Tamiya sells cotton applicators in 4 different sizes , all come to a point and do not have the fuzziness associated with Q Tips . Extremely useful for burnishing foil into recessed areas ! Available at your local hobby shop . Squadron scapel blades are even better than the standard no.11 when it comes to sharpness and finesse when applying bare metal foil . The slightest amount of pressure produces razor thin cuts with extremely clean lines both straight and curved . There is quite a bit of difference between the ultra bright and new and improved foil . The ultra bright is extremely thin , has a tendency to roll up once it's peeled from the backing , and years much easier when it's being burnished down . I would stick with the new and improved , it's much easier to work with .

A finish coat is only as smooth and glasslike as it's basecoat . Take it up to 12000 under cold running water , lightly sanding , taking care not to burn through on the high points and edges . Now , you are ready to lay down that mirrored glass shine with your clear !

I use a 2 to 1 ratio , 2 parts paint to 1 part cheap laquer thinner . Never a problem .

Indoor / outdoor ? Same result ! Almost impossible to remove !

The problem with the Fusion ... Once it goes on , it most assuredly does not want to come back off in the case a screw up ! You can write the body off as a failed experiment !

On white and ivory colors , yes ! I never , ever had it yellow on me with any other color . Standard colors , I rarely use clear coat , no need . Metallics and pearls , absolutely ! It brings out the depth and richness of the colors !

One other point to make , if it's gloss white enamel ... You don't really need to clear, it will polish out to a very nice shine without it .

Glenn , What are you painting the car with , enamel , laquer , etc ? If it's enamel , yes to the wet sand , no to the polish as it will cause your clear to fisheye . Once your clear is on and flashed out , a light wet sand and you can then polish your finish out .

To each and every one . A very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. May the good Lord watch over and keep you and yours in his heart . Thank you all for the laughter , your friendship , and the shared knowledge over the past year . May there be many , many , more years for all of us to spend together pursuing our dreams in this wonderful hobby . God bless ! Donn & Kathie Lone Wolf Custom Painting

Testors clear top coat enamel , thinned 2 to 1 ratio paint to cheap laquer thinner . Apply with light continuos mist coats until an overall shine and smoothness is achieved . Works like a charm each and every time . Does not hold up over time when shot over white or ivory , it will yellow .