Force

Actually the #1 on the cap isn't that important as long as you get near, it depends on how you get the distributor down when you mount it so if its one terminal to either side of the theoretical 1 is close enough, When you put down the distributor on a V8 you try go get clearance for the vacuum advance so you can adjust the timing as much as possible and it's not allways you get it as it should be according to these diagrams, as long as you can get the spark lead you want it will work.

The engine looks like it could be a Caterpillar 3406B or C with Air To Air After Cooler in the real Can-Do, the kit engine is a Cummins NTC 475 Dual Turbo. You can maybe convert the 3406 from the Revell snap Peterbilt 359 or Kenworth W900 Aerodyne kits.

Here are a couple of photos I took of the Futureliner at the SEMA Show a couple of weeks ago.

No my visit over there was purely a vacation...or may I say recreation because that's what it is, the Vegas race was good and so was the SEMA Show, we did also go up to El Mirage for the speed trials and as Bonneville rained out earlier there were lots of competitors there, I have not seen so many there this time of year. I have been to the NHRA Finals at Pomona 4 times before so I've been there, last time was 2012, I could have gone this year too but I have to save some paid vacation days until next year when I plan to come over again, and the Finals may be one thing to plan in and maybe the Goodguys Southwest Nationals event in Scottsdale...we have not decided yet.

It all depends on what type of suspension it is so there isn't a "rule of thumb" here. You can pretty much say that you go at it as on a real car, what works there works on a car model, things like lowering blocks, shorter springs, repositioned spindles and so forth.

I saw that car at the SEMA Show the week before last. The photo is taken by me on location in Las Vegas.

I did go in and looked at the model car show and voted for the model I liked best both times I were there, 2012 we were at the show for two days so I had time to study the models more thoroughly before I laid my vote. I like the Goodguys Southwest Nationals and Scottsdale and I will hopefully come back in the near future, maybe even next fall...I will for sure go over to USA next year and most likely to the western parts but me and my friends haven't decided about date and exactly where to go yet...a week ago today I came home from a trip to Los Angeles CA, Las Vegas NV and a short trip to Kingman AZ...three states in two weeks...so I have just been to your country.

I usually measure and mark how much I would like to cut off, then cut the frame rails with a fine tooth saw, sand the joining surfaces slightly so they are square and glue them back together and I usually reinforce joint on the inside of the rail with a piece of sheet styrene...tools needed, fine tooth saw, sand paper hobby knife and glue. Mostly I do the cut before I build the chassis because it's easier, but you can do it after the frame is assembled if you're careful, just make sure the cut is square so the frame still is straight after you're done.

I have been to that show a couple of times (2011 and 2012) and it's a very nice show that I enjoyed and will go again to if I get the chance, thanks for the pics.

Yes it looks very much like a Monkey Motion to me. I have never seen this type of rubber band drive before either....well it might have worked fairly good for at least on road use.

My suggestion is to get the Moebius Big Rig Wheel and Tire set, they look a lot better than the kit wheels wich in my opinion looks much too shallow. https://www.scalemates.com/products/product.php?id=266083

I agree about the Challenge Transit Mixer, try to restore that as it is instead as it's very rare. Howerver, shorten the frame isn't that hard, just cut out a portion somewhere between the cab and rear axles and glue the frame rails back together with some reinforcement behind the joint and you're done, you also have to shorten the drive shaft the same amount. But convert from a dual drive bogie to single drive axle is a bit harder and mostly depends on what kind of rear suspension the kit has, Air Ride suspensions are often easier to convert than for example a Hendrickson Walking Beam or Mack Camel Back...so how you go at it varies from kit to kit. The Freightliner SD and the Ford LN 8000 Short Hauler are already single drive so you don't have to do anything to the rear suspension there.

As I said...they are from the same tooling. I believe Revell sold out quite soon after they released the stock they had because they weren't avalable that long.

Plastruct has diamond plate, but don't go by the scale that's marked on the packace, if you buy the 1:24-1:25 scale the pattern is a lot too big, the HO 1:100th scale pattern looks more right.

Well the Accurate Miniatures 1963 Corvette Grand Sport and the Revell 1963 Grand Sport are from the same tooling.

The quality among the resin casters varies a lot...some are good and some are...well not so good, and that's the way it is and we have to work with what's available to us...do the things ourselves...or do without it completely...it's up to each one to decide As many here have said, Ross Gibson offers many engines and versions of engines never done before for modelers and that's mainly why I bought the ones I have, and with some work they looks quite decent. I have bought some engine kits and parts from HRM too and his products are very good...but you can't exactly call them cheap and HRM and RG doesn't offer the same things so I don't know if you can compare them at the same level other than they are both resin casters and the quality of their products.

Jupp Hemi only for the Petty car...and mostly race stuff.

Well I could have if I have had more paid vacation days...I was at the Toyota Nationals event in Las Vegas for two days tho'...and the SEMA show...before I went back to the L.A. area.

I ordered some stuff from him a couple of years ago and never got anything.

Great work Chris. I have just come home after a two week trip to your country (Los Angeles CA, Las Vegas NV and a quick trip to Kingman AZ) so I haven't been able to follow much of your progress until now.

Very nice model Sergey, I followed your buildup of this model here until you stopped updating and I have waited to see this finished.

The latest most updated version of the Revell/Monogram Funny Car kits was the kits with the Pontiac Firebird bodies. To do a modern version of those kits you'll need to update a bit more, such as MSD Pro Mag 44 magnetos, set back blower, Waterman fuel pumps, carbon fibre injector hat, dry sump oil system and a few things more. Slixx also sells Comp Resins whole inventory and I belive Comp Resins carries some of Slixx decals, so you can buy everything at one place.

I don't know exactly how many 1970 Barracuda's Sox & Martin had...one had red bumpers, one had chrome bumpers and there were other differences, so they had at least 2, 3 or maybe more, pictures of the cars both from the time and restored cars are available on internet so do a google search on Sox & Martin and you will for sure find some. They raced Barracuda's in Pro Stock 1970, 1971 and 1972 as well as Duster's 1970, 1971, 1972 and 1973, drivers were Ronnie Sox, Herb McCandless, Don Carlton, Joe Fisher and some more and each driver had their own number on the cars (Ronnie Sox had number 200 on the Pro Stock cars he drove 1970, number 4 1971, number 23 1972 and number 200 again 1973).

I do have a magazine article about this car and I checked it out yesterday as I don't want to give out false information, the Super Stock & Drag Illustrated July 1970 issue article says Joe Fisher was going to do the driving as you said. But the information regarding classification of the car is conflicting in this article, the text at one place says the car was built for SS/E and makes the class by less than 10 pounds...but at another place in the same article it says it will run in SS/F...a bit confusing if you ask me. I have never seen any pictures of this car with anyting else than SS/E classification on the windows and 138 or 605 numbers, or nothing at all...but on the other hand there are not many pictures of this car around...but that's not important as the car indeed ran in the SS/E class during it's short lifetime with the Sox & Martin team and we can leave it with that.

Can be true, but as far as I know the car was only used for a very short period around the 1970 US Nationals, and I have never seen any pictures of the Super Stock Superbird with any other weight break than E, and after what I have read both Super Stock Superbird's (the Sox & Martin car and Jack Werst car) were built with one purpose, to take out Ray Allen's SS/E 454 LS 6 Chevelle Convertible...if it's true or not I don't know. Sox & Martin had many different drivers for their cars, Ronnie Sox, Herb McCandless, Don Carlton and some more drove for them, I don't exactly know who drove the SS/E Superbird, the numbers I have seen on the car are 138 and 605.