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Force

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Everything posted by Force

  1. Interesting...so then we can do a more correct looking Motown Missile and Sox & Martin 1972 Cuda...Nice!
  2. That kit is originally made by MPC and is 1:16th scale. I've had it myself once.
  3. It was unfortunate you didn't do your build in 1:24th scale because the Mooneyham blowers are available in that scale. Monogram had Mooneyham blowers in the Don "Snake" Prudhomme Pepsi/Wendy's, Dale Pulde Miller High Life Warrior Pontiac Firebird and the Billy Meyer Chief Auto Parts/Wendy's Ford Mustang Funny Cars from 1985 and they still used the same setup with the Kenny Bernstein Ford Tempo from 1986. The Funny Cars left Monogram and was sold under the Revell name from the late 80's and the John Force/Bruce Larson/Ed "Ace" McCulloch/Cruz Pedregon/Richard Hartman Oldsmobile Cutlass, the Kenji Okazaki/Chuck Etchells/Tom Hoover/Gary Densham/KC Spurlock/Dean Skuza Dodge Avenger and the Tom "Mongoo$e" McEwen 57 Chevrolet Bel Air Funny Car from Revell had the same blower...even the latest version of the tooling from 1997, the Cruz Pedregon/Randy Anderson/Jerry Toliver Pontiac Firebird Funny Cars still has the "M" on the front cover but the blower case in these Firebird kits wasn't plated and had a blower blanket.
  4. Yea you're right, I just quoted the texts on the websites at the links, I haven't had time to research the subject much more than that except for collecting pictures for future use, So i'm open to all info as one of Petty's 64 Plymouth's are on my build list. Here you see the lighter blue color under the hood in a color photo I found on the web a while ago.
  5. Keep up the good work. The "M" on the front cover of the blower stands for Mooneyham, I don't know if that exact type of blower were around back in the day when this car ran but the restored car seems to have one. The "M" is surrounded with Mooneyham above the "M" and Blowers under it.
  6. Yes it's a restored car but it says it's a replica clone of the original 1964 Daytone 500 Winner...but as it's built recently it can for sure be differences between the original car and the clone. I agree that the engine probably was Race Hemi Orange as they were from the factory and not blue, and I have also seen a picture with the light blue under the hood...pretty much the same blue as the engine in the restored car is. They had several cars for different tracks each year even back then as they do today...not as many tho'...so of course there are differences between them, but the Daytona Winner was the first.
  7. I understand your point of view, yes it might be a waste of time removing unwanted plating but if no parts were plated the choices are very limited if you would have liked them plated...especially when you don't have a vacuum plating service for modelers at hand wich we don't have over here. So therefore I prefer to have plated parts in model kits even though I might remove the plating...at least I have the choice to do as I please.
  8. I have seen those single drive two axle tractors with dual 27-28 feet bottom dump trailers all around the L.A. area the six times I have been there so far and I have allways wondered what they were used for. One day a couple of years ago I saw a lot of them dumping asphalt on a road in Stanton and an asphalt paver came after gathering up and spreading the asphalt string out...but there may be other uses for this combinations too...I don't know.
  9. The funny thing is that the 427 did not have 427 cubic inches displacement, it was closer to 425 cubic inches, but Ford thought 427 sounded better and 7 litre was the limit for road racing sanctioning bodies back in the day so they chose to call the engine 427. The 428 was 7 litres and was a lot cheaper to manufacture than the for racing only 427, the 428 has longer stroke and smaller cylinder bore than the 427 and was easier to cast so they went over to that and phased out the 427. The 427 had the same 3.78 inch stroke as the 390 and 4.23 inch bore wich adds up to 424.744 ci and the later 428 had 3.985 inch stroke and 4.135 inch bore wich adds up to 427.896 ci.
  10. Here are some good pictures. http://www.43plymouth.com/ http://www.hotrod.com/feature_stories/1404_the_kings_first_elephant/photo_01.html
  11. A cool can can be any color, it's just a container filled with ice with a coiled fuel line inside, I have seen red, blue, yellow, black and aluminum colored ones, Moroso's cool can was aluminum, red or blue. Some has the sides insulated with cork and some doesn't.
  12. I have the Grumpy's Toys book wich is a good and interesting read and I can recommend it to anyone with an interest in drag racing history. Jenkins used the same car both in 1979 and 1980, and after what I can see from the pictures in the book braided lines and AN fittings were used in the 1979 "Toy XV" Camaro. The "Toy XV" was replaced with the "Toy XVI" Camaro for the 1981 year, and that was replaced with the "Toy XVII" Generation 3 Camaro in 1983 wich was the last Pro Stock car Jenkins had, it was sold to Bob Panella after the season.
  13. I personally don't care who does the subjects I wish for, as long as we get them I'm happy. So if it's Moebius, Round 2, Revell or anyone else doesn't matter to me as long as the kits and parts they do are done correct. Regarding chrome plated parts. It's a lot easier and of course cheaper to remove unwanted chrome plating than to have parts you want plated done...all builders around the World doesn't have a vacuum plating service for modelers available to them as you do in the US...companies like Chrome Tech and others...we don't have anything like that over here so we have to rely on the kit manufacturers to plate the parts for us. Yes you can use Alclad Chrome or something similar, but the finish doesn't get as shiny as the plated kit parts does and I prefer plated parts over non plated parts as I can do as I please with them, dull them down, remove the plating and use paint instead or whatever, if the parts are unplated I do not have much choice do I.
  14. The Hilborn Mechanical Fuel Injection setup is pretty much the same today. There are pictures of the components on Hilborn's website http://www.hilborninjection.com/category.asp?Id=4 and here are a couple of schematics on how you plumb them. Oh one more thing, the throttle arm on the metering valve and the arms on the butterflies in the injectors are coupled together and move simultaneously so you get the right ammount of fuel according to the butterfly opening when to stomp on the go pedal.
  15. I woun't tell anyone....but that was good...George had two Mustangs. One was the Malco Gasser with the 67-68 body style (as in the recent kit) and the other was Mr Gasket Gasser with the 69-70 body style. The chassis for both Mustangs are pretty much the same but if you want to do the Mr Gasket car you'll need a resin 69 body...or use the one in the MPC based 69 Mustang Mach 1 re-issued under the AMT/Ertl name in the 90's. The 69-70 had two different engine combinations, first a 427 SOHC as the earlier Mustang and Willys, later a turbocharged Boss 429.
  16. George even ran a Blown 59 Cadillac before that (390 based stroked to 414 cui). There are at least 3 good pictures of the SOHC engine here that I found just now when I did a quick google search...save them or open them in a new window and they gets a lot larger http://www.thehenryford.org/exhibits/drivingamerica/Explore.aspx?okey=333297
  17. In my opinion a car with large wheels must be low to the ground, otherwise it looks like an old horse carriage, so the right stance is crucial in this case.
  18. I thought of that at first but remembered it was a SOHC, the same engine can be found in the Altered Wheelbase Falcon and Mercury Comet from the same series. Yes the 427 SOHC is based on the FE but it has a different intake manifold that doesn't fit on a regular FE as it's narrower and the heads are a lot different. The SOHC manifold is a Hilborn style injection manifold as you said but it might work if the post spacing is right for the Webers, so one might be able to modify it to fit a regular FE if you used the sides from a regular FE intake manifold so you get the part where it goes under the valve cover, and the middle from the SOHC.
  19. Go for the 2 'n 1 Deluxe Kit and I think you will be pleased...I for sure was when I bought mine. If you can't find one of those then you should try to find the Custom version as it has most of the parts I listed except for the showroom stock engine, I'm not that into the 60 Starliner itself as I think Ford has done better looking Galaxies, but the kit is so good so I've got several of them anyway dedicated as donors for other builds.
  20. If the Revell 1964 Ford Thunderbolt is done correctly it should have a "Hi-Riser" 427 but it's not a "Side Oiler" as that came in 1965. But the best FE engine in my opinion in a kit is the one in the AMT 60 Ford Galaxie Starliner kit wich is among the best kits AMT ever did. If you get the quite recent 2 'n 1 Deluxe Kit you get two engine blocks and transmissions, three intake manifolds (one single 4V (332-428), one 2X4V (427 Medium Riser) and one 3X2V (390-406), one set of short cast iron headers (406) and one set of long cast iron headers (427), one set of plain unplated valve covers, one set of plain chrome plated valve covers and one set of chrome plated "Thunderbird" script valve covers, three nice Holley 4160 4V carbs with vacuum secondarys and three Holley 2300 2V carbs. Except for that you'll get a nice 60-64 Ford Galaxie chassis to use with the older AMT 63½ and 64 Galaxies wich fits with some slight modifications, and the best 9 inch rear end i have seen in a kit so far, you also get a set of Shelby style traction bars, a nice set of Astro Supreme rims, lake pipes and some other nice stuff. if the engine is a"Hi-Riser" and "Side Oiler" is not that visible in a model, a "hi-riser" is just heads with taller intake ports and matching intake manifold where the ports are straighter and carburators is mounted higher up than stock (as on the Thunderbolt engine), and the "side oiler" has oil gallerys casted to the the lower engine block on the drivers side slightly visible on a real engine, a 427 block should also have the middle three main caps cross bolted and have threaded freeze plugs as did all of Ford's hi-performance engines...but as I said, that's not that visible on a model without looking very close. These engine was not that common, the 427 side oiler came 1965 so before that it was the regular "top oiler" without the outside oil gallery, the hi-riser was also short lived, it came 1964 but was outlawed by NASCAR 1965 and was replaced with the medium riser head and intake package and faded out. So you can use the 60 Starliner FE engine and call it what you want.
  21. Well if the engine was a Cummins NHC, NTA or NTC it should be beige close to sand color, and if the engine was a Detroit 8V-92T it was probably silver, these colors dirty and a dirty white looks fairly the same from some distance. You're welcome.
  22. Standard front seats and where the back seat had been it was carpeted. The Modelhaus has plated Keystone wheels from the Jo-Han kit in resin, and Competition Resins has the front tires from the Jo-Han kit in soft black resin, they are more correct than the kit tires.
  23. I have edited the list as I have found out more regarding the Cat Yellow, I don't want to give out false information and the list to be as correct as it can be. So if anyone finds more inaccuracys both in the color list and engine list let me know and I'll fix it.
  24. Yes, the later MPC Funny Car kits aren't that bad.
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