impcon

Thank you for that information. I appreciate your time.

Just wondering if anyone can tell me what is involved in converting a '69 GTX to a '69 Satellite? I know that the Satellite is a dresses to Road Runner and looking at photos of the GTX and Road Runner, the cars appear similar other than ornamentation and trim. The Road Runner kits are expensive so I was wondering about converting a GTX and making it appear to be a Satellite. Hopefully, someone casts the proper grille..Any suggestions are welcomed..

Posting a couple more for ranma.... BTW, the '60 Impala 4 dr ht was a fairly badly warped promo that Rick managed to greatly improve upon and make presentable again.. proof positive that with enough time, effoprt, patience and love, we can do more than we often think we are able to.. enjoy: Someone really needs to cast a good '59 and '60 Sort Sedan.. and Nomad wagons from '50 - 61.... -

And finally...

More from Rick:

Uploaded for Ranma... here you go Rick,

Seems pretty reasonable to me! A good idea!!! Gets my vote!! Actually, there could be a few additions such as seperate forums for exotics and imports but lets do it one step at a time.

WOW!!!!!!!!! That is so cool!!!!!!!!!! May I ask what you are using for q chassis and interior for thie or is it strictly curbside? If this could be reverse enginered to a close semblance of stock, it sure would be a unique addition as a delivery vehicle for a small corner grocery store - or a hearse for a funeral home for dwarfs? Just kidding... but the questions are serious as is the suggestion for a somewhat stock looking build..

I wonder if someone hacked his account? Even for that seller, that price seems a little bit high... I think you about nailed it Tom..

No - I wasn't serious - just sickened by..?? greed???? stupidity...??? wishful thinking....??? I see a fair amount of that sort of BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH on Ebay where the greed factor has gone into hyperdrive with a lot of sellers...... Sometimes I'm tempted to email sellers like that one and say something - but I can't think of anything nice to say... except that if that seller isn't on drugs - he should be ...... I'll leave it at that...

Have a look on Ebay and they don't have to be old for someone to be willing to pay for them. Some sellers want as much for an empty box as what the whole kit should be selling for.. I amnot saying that they are getting what they want but you gotta give 'em "A" for effort..

OK - try this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161532847040?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2FAutomotive-%2F2580%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D161532847040%26_rdc%3D1#ht_2143wt_868

I can't believe that I missed this deal!!!! I found it in the last seconds and tried to get my bid in but...... Who says there are no good deals on Ebay... eBay item number: 161532847040

More pictures would be appreciated.. So far, the build looks really nice - a good choice ot tires and wheel adornment, I must say. The colour looks good too - I'd imagine that you went with the base gray interior???

The following is just my persoanl experience fromn which hopefully some one may be able to glean a bit of knowledge or get an idea.. This works and has worked for yours truly but it is not for everyone and as with any painting procedure, proper safety precautions should always be recognized, applied and adhered to.... Years ago, and for over fifteen years, I operated a side business here at home painting 1:1 cars and trucks for people. This was before things in painting started getting to be what I still think have become overly complicated and the choices of types of paint were limited to lacquer, synthetic enamel, acrylic enamel and urethanes were just starting to become popular. Lacquer primer was what I used for years and I also used it in model cars using a good quality top of the line Devilbiss auto touch up gun. I would mix my primer very thin and apply a few very light dust coats at first, letting them dry for an hour or so hours before the next one was applied. In all fairness, I was usually working on a project in the shop while I did this so it was just a part of my day's routine where as doing it this way for most people would be a pain. I'd mix a small amount of well thinned out primer in my touch up gun and keep it handy to be used through the day as I needed it. I preferred gray primer and once the model had four or five light dust coats and the plastic was sealed, I'd crank the air pressure up and apply another heavier coat or two. For painting, I had ( still have ) lcountless gallons, quarts and pints of left over paints from jobs or I'd get a pint of a colour mixed and used all of the afore mentioned typed of paints with never any problems or issues. For applying the paint, I'd run the air pressure at about 60 PSI so that the little gun would atomize the paint really well and the stuff went on reasonably well as evidenced in this photo of the '70 Challenger that I was working on when our home and my entire model collection was lost to a fire. The paint is factory NAPA Ureglo urethane mixed to thwe proper Panther Pink and it has not been sanded or cleared or polished. It's exactly as it went onto the car from the gun almost over 27 years ago. The reason that it still survives is it was in my shop waiting for the paint to gas off before taking it into the house for assembly. I applied the decals after the fire but never had the heart to finish the model but if I do, I want to replace the decals with new ones. I'd forgotten that I even had this kit until I found it buried in the bottom of a box of models that were all bought after the fire, so it was a nice surprise. I was painting everything with automotive paints and never had any issues at all as far as paints or primers attacking the styrene. I knew enough based on one bad experience in my teens, that you can not hurry or rush a project and I learnt with the lacquer that given time between coats, the plastic got along just fine with it as long as I didn't load the primer on heavy. The automotive primer sanded very nicely and no detail was lost with it flowing in and filling scripts or panel lines. I also through trial and error learnt that holding the gun the right distance from the model was VERY important and the higher pressures laid on in very light coats yielded a decent enough finish. There was a very fine line between a dry or satin finish and a glossy one but once I figured out how to hold the model and when enough paint was enough, things seemed to work just fine for me. Really, I found that there wasn;t a lot of difference between painting a real 1:1 and this little fellow. It's all about knowing when to stop aplying paint and applying it the right way. I did get an air brush toward the end of that part of my life and I liked it, but frankly, I preferred my Devilbiss EGA 502. The paint quality wasn't the quality of the cleared and polished kits that I see on here today, but we had no Internet at that time so everything was self taught or learnt from magazines. My ways were not without draw backs such as having to leave the model out in the sun ( as ong as it wasn't 100 degrees ) or inside the shop for several weeks to gas off so that there was no paint odour when I brought it into the house, but the little cars looked nice enough when they were done. I continue to use NAPA's Martin Senour gray lacquer primer today on most projects and one quart of it will last me the rest of my life, I am sure as I thin it out much more than I would were I using it on a 1:1 paint job. I recently bought a can of Tamiya white fine primer to be used as a sealer for a red Camaro that will be painted white. I had one bad experience when I was two toning an all red GMC Astro tractor ( 1:1 ) to a red and white colour scheme where the fresh white paint turned pink. I'd not used bleed seal and had to redo the white after letting it set for a few days and applying the black sealer after which there were no issues. I guess that's why the paint company sold a product called "Stop Bleed". Now I realize that the Camaro is plastic molded in red and I am not trying to cover red paint, but I am not taking any chances. So for guys who use lacquer primer, chances are that a local body shop will sell you some lacquer primer ( if they are still using it ) or maybe even give you some and trust me, that stuff goes a long ways and lasts forever. Even if a lacquer does harden from sitting, add some lacquer thinners and stir and it becomes fluid and perfectly useable again. An old painter that I know sunned it up when he said - and I quote - "Lacquer paint is the the only paint product that is forever soluble in its own solvents" Hope this helps someone..

I have a 1/18 die cast '59 Impala that I started getting ready to repaint a stock colour a few years ago and then it occurred to me that the hoof V and crossed flags were a decal and once removed, the hood would be devoid of any emblems. There are other die casts as well that could benefit from some body work and a repaint but the scripts and emblems are usually decals. Is there anyone who makes photo etch parts or decals for these larger scale cars? Or do I have to try and find someone who can duplicate them in decal form for me?

I believe that's Time Machine Resins - he has some interesting items. I bought one of the '59 Chev 2 door posts but it is based on the RM Impala and has the wrong trunk and roof line for a sedan. The HT roof was smaller, the roofline 3" lower and the deck lid is shorter on a true 2 door sedan than on a hardtop. I wasn't too pleased with that but the quality of the casting was decent enough. I'll never build the car as it doesn't look right to me.

I have a '67 Belvedere 2 door sedan also in resin - cast in white. What colour are your '67's and can you please pmme the caster's name who made them? I'd love to find a wagon....

Thank you for the offer Tommy but I'll be OK with what I am using - I think. If the seats that I am using do nto ork, I'll maybe take you up on your offer. Yes, the car in the pictures has a secret - a Max Wedge with ridiculosly low mileage on the car. The paint, interior and mechanics are all original too by the way. The car was on Ebay a few weeks back and I found it under Completed Listings and saved the photos. Two days later, they were gone so I am glad that I saved them while I could. It's certainly an innocent looking enough car that could transform itself into something very quick and strong in a heartbeat. They just do not make them like that any more.

The mirrors are actually along the same style as my dad's brand new '71 F100 had on it but those ones were stainless and not painted. Looks really good - Does the Moebius kit have the side trim molded as part of the kit or isit seperate? Just wondering because it would be neat to have the option of building a base Custom or Sport Custom as welll as the Ranger. Those models had much more narrow belt moldings and no decorative big panel on the tail gate.

Thanks guys. Truly, I deeply appreciate your counsel and advice and ideas. I want to complete the Belvedere in the style shown in the photos below so I'll be needing to rework the upholstery patterns on the seats and side panels. I need seats that have the correct basic shape to begin with which I will now, thanks to the suggestions, be able to get from several different sources. I want to do a GTX hardtop as a bench seat car as well so I'll be getting a seat from harts parts. Below is the theme that i wish to use on the Belvedere though. Too bad they never produces the GTX and the Coronet in convertible form.. Maybe some aspiring resin guy could look into that conversion..

Uh - I emailed you and you responded with a price - and you responded - so there was at least one email.

Just a thought - why bother even casting a flat chassis that most people will only discard in favourof a kit one? This could lessen the cost of the model a bit and it seems like a waste of raw material.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.. I just tried to look on Missing Link's site for the seats but for what ever ereason, I can't access the parts page. When I try, it goes to a page for International Shipping Rates.. something's kind of screwy there...............

Mod - please delete this post - Thank you.