impcon

More pictures would be appreciated.. So far, the build looks really nice - a good choice ot tires and wheel adornment, I must say. The colour looks good too - I'd imagine that you went with the base gray interior???

The following is just my persoanl experience fromn which hopefully some one may be able to glean a bit of knowledge or get an idea.. This works and has worked for yours truly but it is not for everyone and as with any painting procedure, proper safety precautions should always be recognized, applied and adhered to.... Years ago, and for over fifteen years, I operated a side business here at home painting 1:1 cars and trucks for people. This was before things in painting started getting to be what I still think have become overly complicated and the choices of types of paint were limited to lacquer, synthetic enamel, acrylic enamel and urethanes were just starting to become popular. Lacquer primer was what I used for years and I also used it in model cars using a good quality top of the line Devilbiss auto touch up gun. I would mix my primer very thin and apply a few very light dust coats at first, letting them dry for an hour or so hours before the next one was applied. In all fairness, I was usually working on a project in the shop while I did this so it was just a part of my day's routine where as doing it this way for most people would be a pain. I'd mix a small amount of well thinned out primer in my touch up gun and keep it handy to be used through the day as I needed it. I preferred gray primer and once the model had four or five light dust coats and the plastic was sealed, I'd crank the air pressure up and apply another heavier coat or two. For painting, I had ( still have ) lcountless gallons, quarts and pints of left over paints from jobs or I'd get a pint of a colour mixed and used all of the afore mentioned typed of paints with never any problems or issues. For applying the paint, I'd run the air pressure at about 60 PSI so that the little gun would atomize the paint really well and the stuff went on reasonably well as evidenced in this photo of the '70 Challenger that I was working on when our home and my entire model collection was lost to a fire. The paint is factory NAPA Ureglo urethane mixed to thwe proper Panther Pink and it has not been sanded or cleared or polished. It's exactly as it went onto the car from the gun almost over 27 years ago. The reason that it still survives is it was in my shop waiting for the paint to gas off before taking it into the house for assembly. I applied the decals after the fire but never had the heart to finish the model but if I do, I want to replace the decals with new ones. I'd forgotten that I even had this kit until I found it buried in the bottom of a box of models that were all bought after the fire, so it was a nice surprise. I was painting everything with automotive paints and never had any issues at all as far as paints or primers attacking the styrene. I knew enough based on one bad experience in my teens, that you can not hurry or rush a project and I learnt with the lacquer that given time between coats, the plastic got along just fine with it as long as I didn't load the primer on heavy. The automotive primer sanded very nicely and no detail was lost with it flowing in and filling scripts or panel lines. I also through trial and error learnt that holding the gun the right distance from the model was VERY important and the higher pressures laid on in very light coats yielded a decent enough finish. There was a very fine line between a dry or satin finish and a glossy one but once I figured out how to hold the model and when enough paint was enough, things seemed to work just fine for me. Really, I found that there wasn;t a lot of difference between painting a real 1:1 and this little fellow. It's all about knowing when to stop aplying paint and applying it the right way. I did get an air brush toward the end of that part of my life and I liked it, but frankly, I preferred my Devilbiss EGA 502. The paint quality wasn't the quality of the cleared and polished kits that I see on here today, but we had no Internet at that time so everything was self taught or learnt from magazines. My ways were not without draw backs such as having to leave the model out in the sun ( as ong as it wasn't 100 degrees ) or inside the shop for several weeks to gas off so that there was no paint odour when I brought it into the house, but the little cars looked nice enough when they were done. I continue to use NAPA's Martin Senour gray lacquer primer today on most projects and one quart of it will last me the rest of my life, I am sure as I thin it out much more than I would were I using it on a 1:1 paint job. I recently bought a can of Tamiya white fine primer to be used as a sealer for a red Camaro that will be painted white. I had one bad experience when I was two toning an all red GMC Astro tractor ( 1:1 ) to a red and white colour scheme where the fresh white paint turned pink. I'd not used bleed seal and had to redo the white after letting it set for a few days and applying the black sealer after which there were no issues. I guess that's why the paint company sold a product called "Stop Bleed". Now I realize that the Camaro is plastic molded in red and I am not trying to cover red paint, but I am not taking any chances. So for guys who use lacquer primer, chances are that a local body shop will sell you some lacquer primer ( if they are still using it ) or maybe even give you some and trust me, that stuff goes a long ways and lasts forever. Even if a lacquer does harden from sitting, add some lacquer thinners and stir and it becomes fluid and perfectly useable again. An old painter that I know sunned it up when he said - and I quote - "Lacquer paint is the the only paint product that is forever soluble in its own solvents" Hope this helps someone..

I have a 1/18 die cast '59 Impala that I started getting ready to repaint a stock colour a few years ago and then it occurred to me that the hoof V and crossed flags were a decal and once removed, the hood would be devoid of any emblems. There are other die casts as well that could benefit from some body work and a repaint but the scripts and emblems are usually decals. Is there anyone who makes photo etch parts or decals for these larger scale cars? Or do I have to try and find someone who can duplicate them in decal form for me?

I believe that's Time Machine Resins - he has some interesting items. I bought one of the '59 Chev 2 door posts but it is based on the RM Impala and has the wrong trunk and roof line for a sedan. The HT roof was smaller, the roofline 3" lower and the deck lid is shorter on a true 2 door sedan than on a hardtop. I wasn't too pleased with that but the quality of the casting was decent enough. I'll never build the car as it doesn't look right to me.

I have a '67 Belvedere 2 door sedan also in resin - cast in white. What colour are your '67's and can you please pmme the caster's name who made them? I'd love to find a wagon....

Thank you for the offer Tommy but I'll be OK with what I am using - I think. If the seats that I am using do nto ork, I'll maybe take you up on your offer. Yes, the car in the pictures has a secret - a Max Wedge with ridiculosly low mileage on the car. The paint, interior and mechanics are all original too by the way. The car was on Ebay a few weeks back and I found it under Completed Listings and saved the photos. Two days later, they were gone so I am glad that I saved them while I could. It's certainly an innocent looking enough car that could transform itself into something very quick and strong in a heartbeat. They just do not make them like that any more.

The mirrors are actually along the same style as my dad's brand new '71 F100 had on it but those ones were stainless and not painted. Looks really good - Does the Moebius kit have the side trim molded as part of the kit or isit seperate? Just wondering because it would be neat to have the option of building a base Custom or Sport Custom as welll as the Ranger. Those models had much more narrow belt moldings and no decorative big panel on the tail gate.

Thanks guys. Truly, I deeply appreciate your counsel and advice and ideas. I want to complete the Belvedere in the style shown in the photos below so I'll be needing to rework the upholstery patterns on the seats and side panels. I need seats that have the correct basic shape to begin with which I will now, thanks to the suggestions, be able to get from several different sources. I want to do a GTX hardtop as a bench seat car as well so I'll be getting a seat from harts parts. Below is the theme that i wish to use on the Belvedere though. Too bad they never produces the GTX and the Coronet in convertible form.. Maybe some aspiring resin guy could look into that conversion..

Uh - I emailed you and you responded with a price - and you responded - so there was at least one email.

Just a thought - why bother even casting a flat chassis that most people will only discard in favourof a kit one? This could lessen the cost of the model a bit and it seems like a waste of raw material.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.. I just tried to look on Missing Link's site for the seats but for what ever ereason, I can't access the parts page. When I try, it goes to a page for International Shipping Rates.. something's kind of screwy there...............

Mod - please delete this post - Thank you.

Thanks for the input Bill and Tom. I want to go with the cloth and vinyl look for my Belvedere so the seat surfaces will be fairly smooth based on reference photos that I have downloaded. I would also like to build a Satellite hardtop with a bench seat, column shift and a 318 so I'll give the '68 interior a close look. A bench seat '67 convertible is another thought as I have several GTX kits and some spare pieces. Now if only someone would do a resin Belvedere wagon....

Thanks guys.. Plowboy - "Can you take an extra GTX rear seat and make the front bench? I did that with the interior for my '66 Malibu." Yes. in fact I did consider doing that but I was hoping for something a bit closer to the more basic Belvedere upholstery. Thank you though - I appreciate your suggestion. Mike - "Check out Hart's Parts Resin, http://www.hartspart...revell-monogram. They have the seat you need about halfway down the page." I can't say that I have ever seen that seat before - I want the plain jane look though.. that seat is interesting though - maybe for a futue build.... Thank you - I appreciate the lead. Steve - "Have you possibly considered the AMT '68 Road Runner kit? The pattern even looks pretty close." I never thought of the Road Runner - That's probably about as close as its gonna get - Even with my meager modelling skills, I think that I can work with that. Thank you so much!

I have a resin '67 Belvedere two door sedan that I want to build as a simple, stock, six cylinder car with a bench seat. I have looked through what I have handy for a front split bench seat and matching rear seat that I can use but no joy. The GTX rear seat cann be worked with if need be - it's mainly the front seat that is the problem here. I'm using the Revell '67 GTX as the main donor kit and everything seems to fit well enough on the resin body but there are a few issues that I can either tackle or just live with but right now, it's the seat thing that I want to get out of the way. I tried the Lindberg Colour Me Gone '64 Dodge seat but it's far too small and it would look goofy. I have tried a RM '59 Impala front seat and it is the closest that I have found to a fit, by it's just a hair too wide and the shape of the seat backs are wrong - although that could be altered with some imagination and work I suppose. I'll worry about upholstery patterns once I find a seat that I can use. I know that the interior side panels are different on a Belvedere but again, I'll worry about that if I can find a seat that I can make work. There are some differences between the Belvedere and the GTX including the grille and rear trunk trim which is molded to the rear bumper but I'm trying to do this one bite at a time and get my ducks all in a row before I start really doing anything. The Belvedere body is obsolete apparently, so I want this done as well as I can do it based on my building abilities which are far from being on par with most of you guys out there. So - any ideas where I can get a seat that will look close to right? Thanks for reading.. I am open to suggestions...

Looking at the consistently retarded prices that these things sell for on Ebay, I'd say that there is indeed market for the trucks as long as the quality is good and the rice decent. Perhaps some photos of a prototype would gain a lot more interest, Perhaps try casting several and offer them on the forums again with photos as you did your other trucks and you'll get orders but there are too many guys out there selling resin products are at best, pathetic in quality. There are also other forums where you may try putting feelers out on. Its a subject that once it is known about and if the quality is good, will certainly sell. Why not do some castings, take some good photos ad see if that happens. Put one or twwe on Ebay. It is a worthwhile project IMHO. But trying to get commitments from pepe to buy something that they can not see is a difficult and fruitless process.

1968 was the last year that a Mercury truck was available in Canada. There was a '68 mercury one ton sitting near me for sale - I can get some photos if anyone wants ifit is still there. Today, Mercury trucks are seldom seen any more even around here..

Depending upon when they are available and for how long, I;d be interested in two Crown Victrias and at least one Chevrolet. I couldn't afford all at once right now, but if they were avauilable in a couple of months and remained available - depending on my finaces, I'd be ordering. Perhaps the caster can PM me?

I paid $9.00 plus very reasonable shipping for the '67 Plymouth and it is cast in a snow white resin and VERY nicely cast. I can't imagine hardly paying $9.00 for a glue bomb on Ebay these days. Today, most sellers charge what ever the traffic will bear and then a little bit just for auld Lang Syne. So many resin casters come and go but what the heck happens to their molds?? One thing I have learnt with resin is that if you want it, you better grab it if you can afford it because chances are that unless it is an established caster, the stuff may not be available tomorrow.

Wondering if anyone knows what happened to the Ebay resin seller rdfx fan? That person is no longer a registered used but I bought a couple of resin bodies from him and wonder if he changed his user ID or went out of business? I was just looking at the 67 Plymouth 2 door post that is a conversion for the '67 GTX and it's a nice casting - I should have bought several of them in retrospect. If he is still casting, I'd consider buying some of his other products.

As a guy who has a real soft spot in my heart for the '59 Chevrolets, I find this thread to be very interesting, to say the least. Please do keep us informed withhiw this project goes. I am really curious as to what you are going to do about the Bel Air side trim. The AMY '59 El camino has the same trimif you can somehow make a mold off the body and cast the trim pieces. If you do that, please show in detail the steps and products used to do this. Tom Coolidge actually has a 1960 Nomad ( Impala series ) that is nothing short of spectacular!!!! The roof could always be removed from the '60 and used on a Modelhaus 2 door wagon to create a four door Brookwood. I'm wondering if the roof off of a Flintstone '60 wagon may work too, but the Promolite roof would almost certainly be a better bet. I have Tom's '59 Ford Custom 300 2 door sedan as well and his stuff puts most styrene kits out there to shame. Tom is a really decent man and his products are second to nothing out there from any kit manufacturer be it styrene or resin. I think that anyone who has ever dealt with him will say the same.

I have made numerous trades with Rick Hainline ( ranma ) and I have to say that I have always been very happy with our transactions. He certainly does his best to live up to his end of an agreement and goes above and beyond the call in making a trade and a friendship work. Sorry Rick, for not posting here long ago - you've been very kind, thoughtfull and a good friend. I look forward to more dealings with Rick and a long term, on going friendship via emails. He's a good guy all around who will treat you as you treat him and who always comes through. Never had a problem with him and our trades have gone smoothly. Thank you Rick.

I made a trade with Vince ( vintagedragcrazy ) and I found him to be honest to a fault, accomodating and he is a guy who will go the extra mile. I don't seem to usually comment on trades but I have to give Vince his dues here. Certainly a top notch guy to deal with and he has a AAAA++++ rating here in my books! Thanks Vince for those hard to find parts and for a sweet trade deal.

Thank you for the wisdom and counsel. Mine is about three years old and if has spent much of its life in what was suggested, a covered plastic Tupperware style dish. It still seemed to be working although there have been a whack of models that have gone through it but it isn't touching that truck cab. I also recently put an El Camino camper from an old '59 El Camino kit in and that was two days ago. I checked it yesterday but nothing much seemed to be happening. It seems a bit odd that it would suddenly stop working unless I have somehow coincidentally come across a few models that are painted with paints that are immune to the stripper. I'll try Easy Off as I have some here and if that doesn't work, the alcohol and then my last resort, brake fluid - which I hate using. It also seems a bit strange that the cleaner stripped everything that I put in it up until that truck cab... I'll see how it goes and post the results. Thanks all...

Wondering if anyone knows what the life of a gallon of Castrol Super Clean is once it is used? The last couple of models that I have put in my plastic container full of the solvent have not done so well as far as removing the paint goes. As a matter of fact, nothing really seems to be happening. It seemed to be working fine up until the last couple of strip jobs and suddenly, it's not doing anything. Would it lose it's potency within a couple of weeks or is it perhaps the type of paint that is on the models. I have no idea what the paint is but the one truck cab seems to chip quite easily indicating possibly lacquer. Any suggestions? I have tried scuffing the paint surface to open the pores and allow the solvent an easier way in but that does nothing and the parts look the same when they come out of the solvent as when they went in. Any suggestions? Advice?