Dragline

EXTREMELY creative, and the best use of an HD motor I've seen in a long time. BRAVO Bob

Chitwod ran up north back then and I got to see them more than once. AMT did a kit of it. Might be tough to find these days but I know there was one made. Good luck and open your wallet. Bob

That old pic Shane psted has shown that the car ran that exact body at least for part of its initial run. There were a couple of fiberglass body makers at the time. Perhaps they got one where they could wherever they were? Makes sense to me. This kit is STELLAR in ALL respects. I'll build mine as it ran BITD and it'll be accurate. FINIS Bob

Very nice indeed... These were a handful always. One of the types I'd like to try and drive myself. Both hands on the wheel of course. Bob

This looks to be a most outstanding build Shane. I am already anticipating great things so no pressure buddy. LOL The frame looks great already. Watching closely as usual when you build. Bob

I'll have my own at weeks end. I will then TEAR off the cello and go right to work. I put up all my other projects and cleared the bench in anticipation. I'll be doing mine in "vintage" form. I already have the rear wheels ready to go. Looks like quite a bit of chrome stripping for all thse aluminum surfaces and tanks. I have my Metalizers on stand-by. I'm going with the solid color of the original car on my build. Kudos to Revell for the chute tags too. Nice touch. Quite a few more rubber fuel lines than on the restored car as well. I'll be replicatiing those as well. Good Times on the bench just ahead. Bob

My thoughts are for her brother.... Bob

Great start guys. I'm wondering how different your builds can turn out given that the subject only truly lends itself to one car. I'll be watching with some interest to see the finishes you both apply. That will ultimately make them different in some subtle ways. How bout one of you do a detailed build and the other box stock? Just a thought. Build on brothers. Bob

I had a nasty one at one time as well. 1982 Dodge Colt with Mistu engine. Driving to work one day on the highway and it starts doing nose dives. I'm like WTF?. Get to work and pull in around back to the garage. I get out, walk into the office when 2 guys run past me with a fire extinguisher. I turn around to see them putting out my drivers side front wheel. Seems the caliper foze up and that is what was causing the nosedives on the highway. I drove it for probably 12 miles frozen like that. Friction and grease combined tend to create fire if the friction is supplied in a significant quantity. So, after the fire was extinguished I tapped out the brake pads and used the E brake to get back and forth to work for a few days till the weekend. I got a junkyard caliper [it even had pads in it!] and installed that and drove it till the motor seized that winter. Good times. Bob

The best use of.. A: 660hp B: All wheel drive C: A Ford Festiva D: Racing Fuel E: That banked track. Stunning driving in every repsect. When he went into that little walled off area and drove it in circles my jaw was on my lap. NICE E brake handle to. Easy to reach. Bob

KH, you are preaching to the choir here. Here. here for more vintage gear indeed sir. I just thought I'd pipe one for the newer vintage guys [like myself]. I'd like to see modern tooling so I can model the same car for the next 15 years. LOL.... Even newer high detail builds [Dave T's cover feature springs to mind] require extensive mods to handle the newer bodies. It's my slacker mode in primary I guess. I have such a build on the table. Just waiting to start it I guess. Slacker mode firmly pressed into OD. I have a LOT of projects envisioned. Every time I see a bit of forward I make a squeak towards slacker heaven. OK, there was this one time at band camp................................ B

That instruction sheet was a coup! Taking a look at it is equivelent to looking up a gals skirt before taking her out. It's going to be a great kit and the seperate hood is clear evidence that the other chassis will be a non offset one. That and the hood insert prove it out to me. The motors can be the same since they basically are in the 1:1 cars. Motors can be changed or modified with even a modest parts box. The new tires should be good and the body looks spot on by my A-B'ing them with the 1:1 cars. Now if the NHRA [or NASCAR for that matter], can get their grubby mitts out of our pockets, new pro stock and fuel motored cars could be made. Even the modern [sic] Revell funny cars were using 80's frames, which while close, were not quite right. A modern chassis for AA/FC and an easily updated Top Fuel chassis and motors for both is quite possible with the current tooling. Revell got a LOT of mileage out of those initial Monogram offerings. Time to pony up. I'll be buying a few of these to make the JJ and USA 1 cars mentioned above. This chassis looks to be as good the PL kits. Although I happen to like multi piece frames. For me, they are easier to sand and are not flat on one side. But I'll save that for when I have one of these in my hands. Bob

Feeling that Wayne. I have emotional attachments to all my builds. But that fades in time. A new build is just that, NEW. In time I feel differently. I send my builds to my Dads who archives them. I just sent my Garlits and Mongoose and Snake builds there. This is where I archive my builds. He has nearly 300 of my builds from 1980 till present. I'm about to send my Tijuana Taxi, Honda RA272 and Dyno Don builds this weekend. If you saw how he archives my stuff you'd want to send yours there too... LOL Emotion plays an IMPORTANT role in ALL of my builds. I see you are no different. And most here would RING OUT in agreement. Bob

Same here broski.. I am totally ready to attack these kits. I'll put everything aside when they come out to blow em up right away. I have your pics and the ones posted on NHRA.com Mark. If anyone wants those PM me and they are yours. Bob

Completely Ridonculous Wayne. First rate from any angle. No word on that trade though. LOL BOB

Killer Shane. Tighter than a frogs butt, and that's waterproof. Couldn't resist with it being green and all. They say genius' pick the color green. So how'd you end up painting it that color? LOL Bob

I warm weather Tamiya synth laquers dry very quickly. At 90 degrees I was able to decal and clearcoat a car within a couple of hours. And I used Testors 1814 enamel clear. Tamiya clear synth laquer is very HOT and care must be taken to do several mist coats before a relatively wet coat can be applied. Tamiya clear coat is solvent heavy but lays down incredibly smooth. To the point where only a light polish or waxing is all that's required for an outstanding finish. Tamiya clear can also be laid down over Model Master laquers with excellent results as well. Bob

Looks great Brett. I love the cotton ball burnout. I remember back in the late 70's early 80's at Hobby Town in Dartmouth Mass, behind the counter up on the shelf was a 1/16th scale Garlits RE Dragtser built. It had a cool cotton ball burnout with it and it captured my imagination for sure. That, and the fact I had never seen the kit before that so it had me in awe. Your build is killer dude. Bob

You are partly correct Chuck. But the Chi-Town is an exclusive chassis being an offset design and wouldn't be correct for the Leong car. So it goes back to a new Logghe style chassis for the Leong car. Or a derivative of the Chi-Town tooling. Say, an extra tree with corrected parts on it. Bob

My Dad had this exact bus. I gotta get one and do it blue white like his was. I have pics somewhere. Awesome job on it too! Bob

I have to agree with the sparing of the raw plastic shot. I also never got that. I always show progress if I'm going to post any picture of a project I have going. There are exceptions, but mostly I too don't get it. Oh, BTW. Looks great! Bob

I started to have to use 2X glasses about a year and a half ago. I also use a 8X goosenecked magnifyer that attatches to my table for those up close and personal tasks. At 45 I knew I'd need glasses someday. It sucks when the day comes though. Wear age like a badge of honor. Any dink can make it to 20. Make it to 50 and then we'll talk. 5 years to go. Bob

I agree with the storage issue as well. I have built a few 80's Monogram cars lately and if handled gently, they were ok though a couple did end up breaking. It does indeed depend on how they appear to you. And close inspection can reveal how they may act. No guarantees though, as they are thin and are definitely a perishable item within the box. The ideas laid out here [particularly the clear coating] are excellent and I plan to use them in the future. I'm currently building [among other things] am 80's issue 1/16th Garlits dragster. The decal sheet is not large but it does look fragile. I'm cutting them out now and am going VERY close to the edge on each one. I may end up clear coating them as insurance, but I'll try a few of the smaller ones first as a test.. Testing may be the watch word in this area. Perhaps a coat of Future on the decals can help as well? Bob

Outta the park Charlie. Hope mine turns out as nice. Bob