Dragline

Let me be the first to say WOW! It looks as though Revell as upped the ante yet again! A GREAT time to build Funny Cars. Bob

How did I miss this one??? KILLER color combo and I dig the running stock. When I was younger my girlfriend and a white Gremlin with the Levi's interior. That thing was quite a party bucket. This looks so 80's with a touch of modern. Diggin it. Bob

This is looking outstanding. The finish looks great. Nice work on the stripes as well. Better than the decals in my opinion. Let's see it with all the decals on. drool...... Bob

Gorgeous car Dave. Is that a resin body? I need to add one of these to the fleet. Stunning paint. Bob

Thanks for all the nice words on the finish guys. Let's hope Pop's likes it too. Bob

A couple more glamour shots and one about those channels I was talking about. First, the channels. You can see how they are 2 seperate pieces. It's clear they slide into the channels provided. All you have to do is take em out a bit for a higher rear stance. These are buried to the hilt and I can still get the body bar into the space provided for it so I may be not all that off. It's just the the wheel opening hits the tire in the rear. No biggie really but I thought it was worth mentioning. I love the backwards Champion decal on the passengers side. Classic. Bob

Hawk, the 2 pivot points for the body flip ups are not part of the interior tin, but are seperate pieces that slide into channels in the tin. They can be placed deeper up into the channels or can be slid up and down. What that means is the rear of the body will sit where you want it to [within the limits of the channel]. It can be higher in the back or lower as mine is. It looks killer lower like I have it but the trade off is the body will not come up as high as it may to display the chassis. The back portion of the wheel opening hits the tire limiting the up position. I have them all the way buried in their channels not realizing they were made that way for rear ride height. Bob

Yep Aaron, I only just noticed I didn't drill em out... My Dad has 100's of my builds at his house and he's always anxious to add to his collection so I kind of rushed this one. He's not a total stickler for authenticity like I tend to be, so the headers and color choice are not biggies for him. I'm going for the vintage car on my build. Good eyes... Bob

I bought 2 Chi-Town kits a while back. One for my Pops and another for me. I built Pop's first since it is not as detailed as I plan on mine. It was also a great way to grok the kit. In terms of engineering and execution this kit is the best AA/FC I have ever had the pleasure to assemble. Wonderful in every respect. I did sit the body hinges a little too deep and the body doesn't come up quite as high as it should before the fender hits the slick. When building it, just set them in place loosly [easily done] and set your ride height. Mark where they need to be then glue em in. I took liberties on the paint with Duplicolor GM Cayenne Red and Testors 1814 clear enamel. Gorgeous color if a little on the browner side of Candy Apple. My build will use Tamiya TS-18. On my build I may go with turned fuel and oil tanks since they will be plumbed. This should be easy to detail the HECK outta.. I used the decals for the windows and while they are just OK, a Sharpie and silver rivets will be much more convincing. The decals are outstanding in every way, but I dislike the molded in restraints like most do. On mine I'll be filling and sanding them out for PE pieces. I messed around with the wheels to give it an Old School/New School look. I'll replace the rears on my build. This kit practically falls together and was a joy to build. Pop's is looking for the package at the start of the new week. He's stoked. Bob

Tighter than a frogs butt, and that's waterproof! First time I've seen the ghost body built up and I too like it. Time to build mine I think. Bob

How timely! One of our route drivers where I work just got a stripe delete dark blue 2011 GT500. I told him about the kit yesterday and he wants me to build him one. I will be taking MANY detail shots of the car. Once I have all the shots I will make them available for anyone who wishes to have them. What's really cool is that he's 61 years old. I got a ride in it yesterday. Scary fast............. Bob

This is how I'm building mine. I have 2 Muscle Car Review mags with L023's in them. Looking very nice. Bob

Looking VERY nice indeed. The extra effort is paying dividends. Bob

This is the only Vette FC I ever liked so I'll be watching. Looks like an epic build in progress. Bob

X3 Bob

My question is why use Tamiya primer at all? It's waaaay more expensive than Duplicolor, comes in a smaller can and does the same thing. You can spray LITERALLY anything over Duplicolor and their white and grey primers are most excellent. Look at my Mickey Thompson Funny car thread. Look how smooth that primer is. That's straight old Duplicolor. Not even their best one either. It's the lower priced Bright Beauty line. I will not buy Tamiya primer as long as I can get Duplicolor in those big cans for 5.39 ea. Sometimes they are on sale for 3.99 to boot! Bob AND, Duplicolor paints go over it like a dream. When I get some AA batteries I'll post some pics of my Chi-Town Hustler build. I used GM Cayanne red metallic over Duplicolor white primer, then decaled it and shot clear in the same day! I know Tamiya can do that, but I did it cheaper and didn't have to worry about the HOT Tamiya clear coat. 2 coats of 1814 Testors enamel and I can buff it out tomorrow and I shot it Sat afternoon. The thing about enamel clearrcoat is that is really responds to polishing and actually "moves" a bit Even good sized dust boogers are destroyed buy the buff. Try it sometime over a dark laquer paint job and see for yourself. Over lighter colors it works well too. White, not so much, it will yellow over time. Bob

Looks KILLER Roger. You will have every Mopar pro stock from the late 60 early 70s in a few years if you keep going at you present rate. This is an excellent build. Bob

Beastly! I like it..... Bob

Your local food store should carry it. Bob

Did ANYONE read what I wrote? The Pirhana chassis is the one to use. It is almost SPOT ON. LOOK at the video. Pay Attention to what you see..... STOP making it hard on yourselves... Geez.. Bob

Incredible replica of a killer bike John. Every detail seems so spot on. IMPRESSIVE Bob

Actually guy I am currently gathering parts for this build. I was inspired to build it after watching FCS just a couple of months ago. Slixx has the body you want. Not certain of the part# but I am using the Pirhana chassis. After looking at still I made from the movie and then spending an evening Googling my brains out I have come to see that the Pirhana chassis is so close and will really only be a snip and cut fit. It will take strene rod to get all the little things right but that is the chassis to use for this build. Remember to make two holes in the windshield for the air tubes and replicate the duct tape they used to hold it in place. Hope this helps. Bob

EXTREMELY creative, and the best use of an HD motor I've seen in a long time. BRAVO Bob

Chitwod ran up north back then and I got to see them more than once. AMT did a kit of it. Might be tough to find these days but I know there was one made. Good luck and open your wallet. Bob

That old pic Shane psted has shown that the car ran that exact body at least for part of its initial run. There were a couple of fiberglass body makers at the time. Perhaps they got one where they could wherever they were? Makes sense to me. This kit is STELLAR in ALL respects. I'll build mine as it ran BITD and it'll be accurate. FINIS Bob