Dragline

Been sessioning for 2 nights little by little to get the body polished and the BMF applied. I have about 2/3rds of the BMF done and I must say, WHAT WAS I THINKING??!! The kit is just so nice and other than fainter than I'd like chrome trim, it is getting there. I have the door panels to do now that the off white has dried. I'll hit that with the blue and wait till tommorrow for the BMF seperator strip that runs through the center of the door. I have the distributor wired but it is currently AWOL [i leave things in odd places so I won't mess em up]. It's only a matter of time till I find i t. The chassis itself is done and I'm also getting ready to install the headlight buckets into the PE grill. I had to cut them off the kit supplied grill and sanded em down. It's a pain but the result is going to be worth the effort. This has certainly been a departure from my usual nitro burning drag racers and it has gotten me out of my funk. For that I am grateful to this kit. Enjoy. Bob

I know what you started with so the end result is even MORE impressive. Nice paint work and cleanliness. Will stand alone on a contest table for certain. Bob

You just keep hitting em outta the park John.... Looks perfect at any angle. Once again, YOU'VE DONE IT! Bob

Great build Harry. I had this kit at one point and was going to do a post war bobber. I think I sold it in a yard sale. What a shame... Bob

GREAT projects Roger, as usual. Bob

I'm going to try the "no handle" thing for BMF on my 60 Starliner build. It has more BMF than I care to think about and I need a.... wait for it... EDGE....... Bob

I cannot watch a NASCAR race. However, I do enjoy ALMS and the british road racing series. Watched one last week that had Cobras and Ferraris from the 70's in it. That was great. This is why I watch NHRA. Besides being the WORLDS fastest motorsport, it has the market cornered. I also enjoy F1 and Grand-Am. Bring back Can-Am. But seriously, road racing is where it's at. Bob

Cooler than the other side of the pillow. Old surfers never die....They catch the last set. Bob

Lots of very interesting views and opinions here. This is why I posed the question. Nice turn out. Bob

Strip them and then paint them with Model Master Metalizer aluminum plate. It'll look exactly like the photo you posted, Bob

With the advent of new chroming techniques it begs the question. For advanced modelers, could we possibly be offered kits with no, or limited chrome parts? I know it's not tough to strip them but it would suggest that there are sophisticated builders who like options. And no PARTING LINES. Thoughts, if any? Bob

Not certain of the years [Many, on and off], but my first kit was built in 1972 [Revell Bug Bomb] So on and off [mostly off till these last 10 years], for 38 years. Give or take. Bob

Between Zora Duntov and Smokey there are no greater proponents of big block Chevy power. I like where this is going. Bob

Very cool back story. Make it come to life and it'll be poyfect! Bob

Here is one I did almost the week it came out. OK, 2 weeks after it was available. I was chomping at the bit to get after this one. I still have another unbuilt for posterity. A little battle damaged and some Testors Desert Tan laquer. Flags on the puter, then printed. Fun stuff. Bob

This is truly a question that can have MANY answers.. For me it's quite simple really. But my system is probably not used by anyone here Perhaps it is. This is what I do. Clearly prepping is everything, you must spend your time getting the base as smooth and blemish free as you can with a minimum of 600 paper. This entails all mold lines and any filler you have used. I then prime with either Duplicolor or Tamiya. The color is important depending on the topcoat. Orange, Yellow and light Reds and Greens get white primer. My metallics get grey only. Some guys go silver or gold under transparent colors but since I don't use those....... How you paint your color coat is a thing of practice and patience. I use Laquers exclusively since they dry quickly and are the most forgiving in terms of running. A first light coat should be followed by another light coat. I shoot wet in wet which means 10 minute flash times between coats. Final coat is usually wet and always achieves a glossy [if you are using gloss] finish. Tamiya paints are generally semi-gloss and require either polishing or a clear coat for a mirror like finish. Decals are always under the clear coat for me. Other can do it as they please but I want it to last past my time on this earth so burying the decals under the clearcoat is the only way for me. Duplicolor paints come in small cans and have soooo many colors you'd be amazed. They too require clear coating or polishing to bring them to life. The metallics MUST be clear coated if you want them to Pop. Clear coating for me is either Tamiya clear for white and Testors 1814 enamel for all other colors. The Testors clearcoat is something I have mastered and it responds very well to either Novis or automotive brand buffing compounds. Tamiya also responds to them but the Tamiya polish is better is this repsect. Tamiya paint goes on thin and cannot take an aggresive compound all that well till you have experience with it. My advise is to take a little from everyone who gives pointers and see which works for you. This is how I got my particular formula down. Hope this helps. Bob

62 days is a looooong time to be laid up. Glad you are on the outside of the hospital. I hate the place. Bob

The Dictionary should add a picture of this build to accompany the word "POP" It POPS, it overcomes the shortcomings of the design and brings the GTO into the "Future". Color, stance, execution. All stellar. Your design cues are perfect. Bob

Get well Ed! You are missed. Bob

Great work on a first build. I'm impressed as are others here. Break out another one! Bob

Absolutely TWISTED build. This is a good thing. The details are just right as well. I'm watching Bob

Got a little more work done on my Starliner project. This is truly a wonderful kit. One more polishing session and the body is ready for BMF. Interior is coming along as well as the motor. Just some plug wires and maybe a brake line from the master cylinder. Perhaps some battery cables to bring it all to life. Thanks for looking. Bob

Absolutely fantastic Roger. You Sir, have arrived. Bob

I'm no truck guy but I'd be proud to say I built that. Very nice indeed sir. Bob