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Everything posted by Foxer
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That's cool. Is she going into the Restoration Shop?
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I've been slowly, but steadily progressing. The first shot shows the left headlight ring missing. I just sanded away the ring and put a plastic rod on the back as a pin to go thru the door hinge to hold it in place. Next photo shows the headlight sitting out. I couldn't locate a photo of a 1:1 with the ring removed so I'll just fake it. It screws into something .. tabs probably. The white thing in the 2nd photo is a piece I made to go in the trunk behind the gas intake as I've seen in 1:1 photos. The front slotted vents were also opened. They still need a thin vertical vane at the centers. This was just another primer coat to check the bodywork. Next is the gas cap made from a chunk of sprue with another plastic rod locator. I sanded a crown on the sprue and used a thin edge of a file to gauge around the edge for the "finger grip". I drilled a hole in the body for the rod and enlarged and dished it slightly with a twist drill. Thanks for looking and comments are welcome.
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I like the color scheme and your chassis painting looks great.
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cutting doors and piano hinges
Foxer replied to pete3522's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
JB Weld is probably your best bet. It's a slow curing high strength epoxy. I wouldn't think body filler would have the same strength ... and it's sort of brittle. -
cutting doors and piano hinges
Foxer replied to pete3522's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
I know it's a pain, but the #11 blade still works best for me. I have used a jewelers saw (fine bladed jug saw) but that is hard to keep straight. I just went the glue problem with hinges on a van I'm working on. They are are not piano but similar .. use 3 sections of tube. I'd say JB Weld is the best chance. Be sure to roughen the surfaces a bit for a good grip. The link is the page where I started showing my hinge ordeal ... about 2/3 of the way down. It goes on for some time as I fought the troubles I had gluing them on. My solution may not work for you, but hopefully you'll get something out of my experience. I know there are aftermarket piano hinges around, but don't know who it is that makes them. -
How Are You Preparing for the Winter Months?
Foxer replied to Dr. Cranky's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I just make sure the buckets of sand/salt for the driveway are full. .. we've already has 18" here.. arggghhhh! I have so many unfinished builds that I never run out of things to do when cabin fever sets in. I might even start a new build. -
This looks like it's being sculpted just as the factory did!
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New Name for the Hudson Hornet.....Creamsicle Hudson
Foxer replied to DumpyDan's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Sleek! -
Welcome and you're doing a nice job there. Your detail painting looks good and is giving nice contrast. Don't think you have to try everything at once, just whatever feels good at the time. My first model car was in 1958 and I seem to still find new things to try every build. Maybe just one or two things, but they add up fast and bring you skills forward faster than you'd think.
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be sure to let your decals dry, like for a day, and don't touch or go near them. It takes a while for ink to dry out as it's pretty much just sitting on the top of the decal paper. If it's gobbing up too much, try reducing the print quality slightly. To start, you should be using you printer's best quality. Your engine weathering looks good.
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Good to see your name again .. And remember, plastic never forgets!
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Should be an interesting build. I love building a replica with the 1:1 right in the garage, The decal in the kit just looks like it just needs to be red where the gold is. You can do this in photo editing software after scanning it. Other decals you just have to get a good straight on camera shot and size correctly. It might be even easier for the hood to get a straight down photo (like from a bridge) and use that. You don't even have to trim it too close if you have a good natch on the paint. Do a few copies of the decals when printing as ink jet ink is a little transparent ans you might need to apply 2 decals on top of each other.
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Congratulations on your wins .. the competition looked fierce! So many nice builds there!
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A NON-AUTO diorama idea I've been kicking around.
Foxer replied to Chuck Most's topic in WIP: Dioramas
wow .. bringing back memories! I remember building the United States ship in the '50's before AMT switched my gears to cars. My guess would be it was a Revell but those seas are pretty foggy now. -
That interior is especially good looking!
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Bummer you couldn't get a deal on it. I always liked the look of this kit, but heard nasty things about how it fit together and never bought one, When Gregg put a bunch of kits up for sale to help fund the board I saw this and jumped ... and I'm glad I did. I do like the the job they did with it and think it will end up looking good. It's nice they included everything to make a stock A100, even the 2nd engine. The doors probably have taken the greatest hit as far as complaints but I'm impressed by them. Plastic pins I'm sure won;t last long but replacing with metal pins was pretty simple. I've been taking my time to be sure where and how everything fits together which is a must with this kit. Next up is the gas cap on the left side .. odd they left this out, but it looks like the 1:1 Little Red Wagon had this hole welded up.
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Definitely grabs your attention!
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Tastefully done and well executed!
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I bet Hummer parts will be hard to get.
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Looking good! I thought the headlights might need an alignment, but then there are those crypt zombies erupting from the ground!
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The hood bump really blends well!