Foxer

Very interesting. Will be good to see one of these get the treatment!

Nice group there ... all three are still on my bench too!

I see Coco Puffs in that mixer.

Make a swan out of a duck?

Welcome back to modeling. That's a great start ... denting realistically as you did is not easy. I'm a strong advocate of building vehicles you've owned, so this will be a fun one to watch.

I too like this idea ... will be keeping an eye on it.

Triumph TR4A

Precisely why I don't care much for American cars. And, yes, when you stomp on a muscle car and it lights up the tires and starts fishtailing, that's no so boring. But then, you have to drive it everywhere else. Like steroids ... cheap muscle.

Neat trick on the airbags .. what a bummer they are up under .. but WE know they're there! I'm looking forward to this one coming along ...

I have many started kits older than this, so don't be discouraged. They like sitting and being massaged again after all those restful years! Usually your skills have improved in some way and things you stopped for are a piece of cake now. I just wish I still had some of the started customs from my youth 50 years ago. I like the things you're doing to this ... so we'll be watching and making you keep going!

This is a magnificent build ... gorgeous paint, attention to detail, cleanliness and craftsmanship! and I love the look of it!

That's some major bodywork ... going to be very interesting following this!

In reality, if this was a clean one I'd be done .. just some clear and polishing. With the weathering, the exterior will probably take another month of a dab here, a dab there. I'm weathering it in layers.. MANY layers ... until it looks right. Actually, I've been dying to see what paint goes on your Dajiban Van! And, thanks for the comments.

Welcome and that's quite a good looking lineup there. Just the reflections off the paint looks grand!

That interior looks very good! I've never heard of chemiwood and looked it up. Looks like an interesting material.

Here's a couple spots I saved that offer some Modelhaus photos: Modelhaus Modelhaus

First, I'll apologize for this discussion, but I'm a structural engineer and investigating roof collapses was one on my jobs. If you had 2' on the ground, that equates (on average) to 40 pounds per square foot (PSF). In New Hampshire roofs are probably designed for 50 to 60 and more, but older structures may be less. The actual load that would "break" a roof considering current safety factors is 3 to 4 times that much or maybe 150 psf. That equates to over 7 feet of snow to collapse a properly designed roof. So how do roofs fail you ask? The ones that fail always have something wrong with them. Bad design, rot and poor construction. Most of the failed roofs I've investigated did so around 25 psf when it was measured. So, it can never hurt clearing a roof, but most will stand considerable more snow than we've had with no sweat ... just don't ask me which ones unless you pay me to come look at yours!

Depending how much you want to put into it, you could always make it a working truck and weather it some. This would save having to take it all apart as the weathering could cover some unpainted parts and hide edges of anything you painted without removing. (I'm always thinking of the easiest way of doing everything).

Today was antenna day. I started with an antenna from the A-Team van that had the same base as the van I'm building. It got a copper wire pin for the base and the slightly large #80 drill hole to receive the insect pin antenna (the insect pin is .009" diameter!). It was a mistake to glue the wire on the base as it had to be shaped to fit the curve of the fender. I made a new base from aluminum tube. I fit a smaller tube with pin into body the receive the tube for fitting purposes. I would have used this small tube but would have had to drill the #80 hole into the pin I had into the body and plugging the hole in the small tube. Instead I just used a plastic tube I could easily drill and will also use this as the body pin. It's not as strong as a metal pin but the insect pin antenna is so thin it flexes! I'll polish it a little more, put some silver base coat on and see how Kosutte Gin San works on this small a piece to chrome it.

Drill bits are numbered pretty arbitrary and follow no standard wire gauge. They were numbered mostly to define the smaller sizes, the ones we all use in modeling. Using the numbers gave a usable change in size for these small sizes. A quote from Wiki: "The gauge-to-diameter conversion does not follow a set formula, but rather was defined as a useful and practical measure."

Absolutely! My favorite thing about weathering is I can do all those things I learned NOT to do when painting a car!

Maybe you'll have better luck than I. I do find it strange there's nothing describing the ways of pin sizing. I'll get you darning socks yet Charlie!

Oh yeah! Now, that would be a great one for Moebius after the spectacular success' of their first two car models!

That looks to be a fantastic job there. And welcome to the forum! Any chance you could post some single close up photos here?

Looking good!