Foxer

I just want to add a little to Dave's excellent suggestion. I've used this method ... even used MY garage door! ... but you have to experiment a little using a small digital camera to get the correct distance if you're going to use the images with no adjustment. Most digital cameras have wide angle lenses that will make the printouts smaller than a "normal" lens on a 35mmm camera. You'll have to move closer, but it may also introduce some distortion. Just try a few distances and save what distance you used and print the photos on plain paper to see how they come out. You'll be closer to Dave's 12 feet distance rather than 15 feet. Do this once and you're set for the life of the camera to do other boxes and license plates (print these on photo paper, cut out and glue). Hopefully this helps those trying this to zero in on where to stand using this technique.

25.4 sounds like the metric conversion you're looking at. I'm a little lost in what you're looking at. Finding the actual dimension in any scale is as simple as dividing the actual dimension by the denominator (lower number in the fractional scale). You should use the dimension in inches so the result is in the same units .. always keep your units the same. One inch in 1/25 scale is 1" divided by 25 = .04" There are a number of scale conversion calculators online, this being one I just found. Just search for one that makes sense to you.

Thanks guys ... it's what vans were made for ... entertainment! Meanwhile, I've been getting BMF on the window frames .. arrrggggg ..it's been a long time since I've done this and the old hands don't like it! ehhehe

I'm so happy to see all the correct decals on this .. it's smoking!

My jaw has dropped looking at the work posted here!

This came out looking good. All the little details make it yours. I was going to ask about the rust too ... it looks very realistic.

Bodywork is looking good! Brad should be happy to see this materializing.

Well, 1/8" in 1/25 scale is 3.125". Just multiply .125 x 25 to get 3.125. It's easy to convert dimensions to scale. Sorry I don't have that kit to add any advice on lowering the front. Of course, Peter told you how the real one is done, so ..

and I LOVE fendered deuces! That engine looks just right with those webers .. and it's a FORD!

Jon's shot of the resin tells me the front bulkhead story. The photo below shows it. It's the line below the steering wheel shaft. The gas tank sits on it. You can also see where it goes vertical to close the interior off. Should be easy to fabricate with some sheet plastic On another note, I found photos of the frame ... oh no, I'm in trouble now.

That's looking interesting. I like how you handled the tailgate.

Sorry to hear you have so much trouble on this site. A slow connection or an ancient computer? I got a couple Fujimi 356 kits but have no idea what those numbers are on them ... they have none of those numbers in their kit listed number. I was originally hoping to adapt the 356 chassis to the 550 but I'll have to see when everything gets here. Even though the 550 had a special frame if the engine will reverse without too much trouble it would look better than the resin pan. I know, this is why I never finish anything! I'm starting to wonder how thick the resin body is. I know some of Jimmy's body are pretty thick. Maybe that will be a blessing and will make me just do a curbside. From what I've seen, the forward bulkhead would be right where you'd expect the firewall on a front engine car. Photos I've seen show the front fuel tank going under the rear hood lip a bit so that would be about where the bulkhead would be.

I have one of these coming and will see if I can be of any help when I see them. I'd love to see a workbench post on this. What are your plans for this little baby? I'm curious what you're using for a chassis.

This is pretty much UNBELIEVABLE! Springfield, MA ... a low rent town in mid Massachusetts is holding the Springfield Vintage Grand Prix sponsored by the Vintage Sports Car Club of America and will be run on CITY STREETS! The date is July 22-24 and my jaw is dropped that this can happen in this day and age. Springfield must be really desperate for some publicity. The route is still being worked out with the city but is scheduled to be within the center of the city. The street layout in central Springfield is pretty much a grid with few areas for curves, so it will be interesting what they come up with.

I've been getting the decals ready in Photoshop, so there's no plastic updates. I did add a couple coats of gloss clear to the body and the paint looks much improved over the semi-gloss clear. The decals will go on better also. I'll be dulling it all after the body is all dressed in decals, BMF and black trim. This is the decal sheet in full size. I may reduce it for here once I see how it displays. I tried a test decal on some black paint and the white decal paper is working good. Many of the stickers that will go on the back doors are READABLE ... at least under a magnifying glass.

Oh my! I'm partial to this as my first car was a '51 Plymouth. I've never seen a '52 wagon promo, but I'm NO expert on the matter. Sorry I can't help, but I'm sure interested. This thread explains my interest. If that was here, I'd hack that front end off in a second and patch it to the '50 body I have to model my first car!

test or not, those are some small fan belts!

I heard a slow whistle emerge from my mouth as I went through the photos. What amazes me most is how clean it all looks. Amazing work!

I like your solution for the B pillars ... and the rake of the top looks good.. aggressive even.

I've been using gmail (Google mail)the past few years successfully. It's nice being accessible no matter where you are logged in. I believe you still need an invitation to get on it, so just let me know if you'd like to try and I'll get you invited. It does all the spam filtering itself.

The polishing stick I was referring to is the #3210 Triple Grit polisher/finisher $3.49 from Flex-i-File. It's down near the end of the page I linked to. It just has the very fine grits for clear glass. It's just a matter of starting with the finest grit that will smooth out the glue spot and using progressively finer grits to get the scratches you made out, as everyone has said. Good luck! I also came on this while looking for where I got them. Let us know how you make out.

This looks like I may have seen it on the street way back when and I like it! This is a rare statement from me and my opinion of 70's 80's cars in general.

We caught you on this one, John! Now we all know your builds aren't chiseled from a solid billet of aluminum!

This shows what a little detail painting can do to up the level of a build. A great job on a wonderful cut of history!

sprue. It sometimes even comes in different colors!