I couldn't wait to post these ... got some PE wire wheels that are from the Gunze Sangyo High-Tech TR2 La Mans kit! These are VERY nice wire wheels! The tires on the plastic Tr2 wheels in the photo are closer to my 1:1 TR4A, even an inch undersize, so they will have to be put on the PE wheels. I'm not ready to try switching the tires yet ... just have to sit and admire the PE wires until I'm ready to get back on the TR4A. and the PE wheels have nice brake disks and calipers attached to boot!
Gregg has a thread on the main part of the board about using Alclad ... has some good tips! A biggie is to spray at an angle to the surface. Alclad wants to be a light coating .. if you put it on like paint, the shine will disappear. Also the smoother more shiny the black base, the better.
This will be the last one with just greenhouse pics of the trim ... I promise! I shot some primer to inspect for areas needing repairs and there are the expected little holes and places needing sanding. I was surprised to see the trim on the Passenger side C pillar still needs to be slid down to match the trunk line, but it's still a simple job. Otherwise, I'm happy with the trim and can get back to the rocker panels and the trim there.
Yes, Tenax is what I use, it's even quicker than super glue and accelerator ... apply, hold10 seconds and done and fixed in place.
My LHS stocks it in the mountains here. just had to go for more ,cause I forget to put cap on and it evaporates.
I've been working on installing chrome trim on a promo that was lacking it using the .03 round. First, I would say that what you have looks really good! When you paint it will smooth everything out a touch so I would leave it as is. At most maybe just sanding with fingers over the whole piece will round out the top corners a bit. The half rounds are tougher to get smooth that rectangular because the thin edges react to the solvent more. I'm a bit sloppy and go back and smooth everything out the way Ace suggests. I've been using old brushes the find one that puts the minimum glue down trying to minimize the plastic squish out the sides as the solvent really melts these thin pieces. I have gotten aggressive with the glue since the 60 year old plastic doesn't melt as well as the newer stuff, so it has gotten messy but still working, just more cleanup. On the curves I have to brush over the length of the half rounds and it softens and bends to the radius very well if you do it while it's flat to the body surface. And Bondic won't work well for this. The light can't penetrate the solid plastic to cure the material directly under the piece and will only stick as the Bondic squished out cures ... as you don't want.
My opinion is that the new marketing guy deleted one spark plug bump on the distributor as a cost saving measure. The plastic in all those bumps adds up in many kits. Besides, he said there were still 8 bumps left on the distributor.
It's been still the window trim getting it all straight and aligned. The passenger side of rear window needs work and then sanding and some primer to see where some filler is needed.
I have a plan for the tailights. Two channels back to back give the size and can be just slid into a rectangular hole in the body for an automatic fit to the fender curves. I'll try a fit later today I hope.