Chuck Most

Nope, Roger- those aren't the right style. In fact those aren't the right style for a first-gen Expedition, either. Kinda wonder why Revell didn't just stick with the alloys in the SSP kit, as many agencies had them, and the steel wheels they did use in '97-'02 were different from the ones in the kit. John- thanks for that link! I'll get with Don and Carol for the specifics on those wheels.

I'll be keeping an eye on this one, I have something similar in progress with the barfy old Monogram '57.

There's a good reason you've never seen one- it's because you're right about it not being First Gear- as you mention the '36 Dodge is a Spec Cast piece, which I knew when I posted earlier, but for some reason my brain stuck on First Gear. It is underscale, but I still think the artillery wheels would look presentable on the IH. Those wheels are actually the main reason I got the Dodge. I plan to find out how they'll look on the IH for myself pretty shortly.

Nice indeed! Always wanted one of these cars as a kid... still do. I need to get one of these kits.

He also repops the roof rack and surfboards from the Mod Squad kit. Just putting it out there.

I've wanted to build a Michigan State Police car for a long, long time, so I figured since this Antarctican weather isn't going away any time soon and I'll be staying indoors thank you very much, why not start now? I'm starting out with the Ohio State kit, but really, any of them would do- practically none of the supplied police equipment will be used. Front push bar? Nope- the MSP uses a different style. Rear seat divider? Nope- MSP doesn't use them. Light bar? Nope- the MSP uses a Unity Spitfire "Gumball". I'll also need to deep six the alloys, as pretty much every MSP Ford in my area had steel wheels with baby moon caps. There were some of these available in resin years ago, but no more... I'll have to make do with something else, I guess. I'm thinking making the push bar and "hailer" (the hood mounted stop sign) will be the only real expendatures of effort on this one. Anyway... The first order of business was to remove the rub strips from the front doors to accomodate the door seals. The color is custom-specified by the MSP, its Ford paint code is LM, but any competent paint shop can mix it for you, just ask for Michigan State Police Blue, not to be confused with the metallic Michigan Blue used by BMW. The six-window Fords used by the MSP (1992-1997) had gloss black bumpers. The remaining rub strips are also black (without the inset brightwork), as are the mirror housings. I used an old set of E&K decals from 1994- they are meant for a Revell Caprice, but the graphics will work on any 1:25 MSP vehicle. Jbot still makes a set in 1:24 that look good on 1:25 models if you're wanting a more readily-available source.

Nice! Sort of looks like it's based on a '65/'66 US-Spec Galaxie body.

If you have the First Gear '36 Dodge panel, you have the wheels and tires for that panel.. They'd look pretty nice on the pickup, too Now where am I going to get one of those Dodge panels... OH WAIT, I HAVE ONE!

Guess who's getting an inadvisably high number of these? (If you guessed me, you are correct.)

ALL of the above. And probably all of the below too, as this thread progresses...

What Art said. I've had good luck sticking it to raw plastic with a decent gloss molded into it.

Thanks! I agree they look better on the car. Now, if the car had a big tunnel ram and a jacked up back end, then yeah, the first wheels would have been the way to do it, but the chrome steelies fit the style you built way, way better.

Had the same idea and I like how yours is going. Just FYI- the reason the hood is sealed is because this is a plastic version of the diecast Tomb Raider Jeep from 2004 or so.

Are those from the '49 Merc custom kit?

That's exactly what I'm going to do. Between this kit's little teething problems and the fact that there are quite a few other kits I'd like to get more than this one, I'm in no big rush to get one anyway. That would absolutely help to cure the kinked decal sheet problem, but still wouldn't fix the distorted parts. I do like that idea though, it would be one less thing to worry about.

Well, he said "detail", not "accuracy". They're two entirely different things, ya know...

Can't think of what words to use to describe how impressed I am by this... ... so I'm just gonna shut up and gawk at it some more.

I don't wanna go back and read the entire thread, so sorry if this is repeaing someone else's post, but... I'm sure you've noticed the custom 'panel' graphics on the decal sheet have fuel filler cutouts for both sides, when only the driver's side cutout is needed, but take note- the two smaller scallop decals both fit DRIVER'S SIDE only. Shades of the minor Dirty Donnie Chevy van decal debacle all over again.

I've done a few "just the basics" curbsides myself- just enough of an engine to fill the hole, but for this one, I had the Comet chassis, and no other use for it, so I thought "Hey, why not?'. I think the next one will get a partial Mustang '66 engine stuck in there, just for that purpose.

I can get past the 7-lead distributor, but I can't really abide what I've seen in person and online from people who've bought this kit- horrendous flash on the chrome parts, warped/distorted parts, and bent/kinked decal sheets. I'm a bit timid to buy one of these kits after seeing all of that. I know first-hand that Revell is pretty good about providing replacement parts, but some of what I've seen with this kit is just silly. If they'd just make the box tad bigger that would cure the kinked decals and some of the distorted parts, but the issues with the chrome are just bad quality control.

Nope, that's the '64 Comet chassis- in hindsight I might have been better off using the kit chassis, I just didn't want that gaping hole where the engine would have been. Even though once the model is done it is likely I will never flip it over and look at the chassis. Weird, huh? I am using the kit chassis under the other one... yes, I've got another one in the pipeline... I just had to see how that big push bumper looked on one...

Just fun fact with the MSP becons- many of the Spitfires currently in use (which are on average about 25-30 years old, having been fitted to several cruisers at this point) have been switched over to LEDs, replacing the original sealed-beams. REALLY difficult to miss at night!

Just realized something- I added the missing cowl cut lines, but did not do the same for the lines separating the lower edge of the front fender and the rocker panel. Whoopsies!

Roger- easy to make progress when you're skipping over the stuff like adding a full detail chassis and engine and just making it a coaster. I'm way more interested in seeing how yours turns out.

Of them all, the original AMT "Trophy Series" kit (the one in that Diamond in the Rough set you were asking about) is the best of them all. The only real gripe I have with it is that the inner door panels are molded onto the inside of the cab shell, but they look great with little more than clen and careful building techniques.