Chuck Most

Cool! Looks like I'll be able to kill the time while I'm working out a trade for the plow truck to build the DR.

By the early '60's Hudson Twin H engines had become pretty well known as budget drag engines. The July 1965 issue of Hot Rod had a pretty comprehensive article on drag racers using the Hudson six- http://home.comcast.net/~sarahdyoung/ReturnOfHudsonArticle.html Obviously a lot of guys were running Hemis and Small Block Chevs by that time, but there always had to be that small group of guys who didn't want the same powerplant everybody else was running.

The surface rust effect looks very nice- and realistic. Gotta ask- is the car going to sit that low when it's finished? (Please say yes! )

This is my inspriation for the Anglia- Loran Sapp's 'Little Toad', which won its class at the 1964 Winternationals. Yes, it's Hudson powered! Yes, if I have anything to say about it, my model will be Hudson powered, too! The engine I'll be using is pretty much done already- it was based on Sapp's setup. It is the one on the left.

Oh, and I vote for the second set of front wheels/tires shown. They just seem to fit the overall theme and 'attitude' of the truck better.

Wow. Just.... wow! Is that telephone wire for the chassis plumbing?

Okay Niko... count me in with EITHER a '41 Plymouth Coupe -or- a Ford Anglia Thames. I've got some VERY solid plans that should work on either one- give me a couple days and I should have some progress and pictures to post.

One more irritating question, then I'll actually get cracking on the kit. I have it on good authority that the dump bed from the Ford plow truck is a perfect fit on the White Western Star frame, with just a little modification to the rear of the rails needed. Is the built up DR pretty close in length to the Western Star, or at least have a similar amount of frame behind the cab? I do have both kits, but neither are built up so I'm not sure what fits where at the moment.

Nothing to fear from any of the following... Replicas and Miniatures Company of Maryland Promolite 2000 Modelhaus Jimmy Flintstone Bandit Resins Drag City Casting Competition Resins P&P Resin Works Motor City Resin Casters Morgan Automotive Detail and a few more I'm sure I'm forgetting. Great product and better-than-great service, all of them.

These are both out of production, but since you're on a bit of a roll with late model Internationals, is it too late to keep holding out hope for a kit of one (or both) of these?

Like the MaxxPro? (This one is armored.)

Take away the falling tree limb damage (?) on the back and it pretty much looks like my grandfather's '49 Chevy before he restored it.

I still haven't managed to make it over to Gilmore. That NEEDS to change one of these days.

At first I wasn't sure about your gauge layout, Mike- the two big, round bezels are kind of a signature trait on those trucks. But the more I look at it, the more I like it.

Nice! Really like the engine bay detail. Always liked the Fox-era Capris. I think if I'd have built it I'd have used some smaller front tires, but that's just a 'personal preference' thing.

Nice!

This truck is being used as a kind of makeshift storage shed by a local business. From what I've heard it still runs and lot drives, but it's in pretty tattered shape.

I'd be more worried about the tanker trailer! I've never seen anything close to it in kit form.

So, I've had this thing sitting out behind the barn for longer than I care to mention... And I'm wondering if anyone does a late '40's REO cab like this in resin, preferably in 1:25 scale. I want to build a replica of it. Well, two- one of how it sits now, and one of how it might look as a restored or original truck. Yes, it was a miltary truck originally- not many were made because they were rather slow (overgeared to compensate for a weak, glorified passenger-car engine). I know I'm going to have to do quite a bit of scratchbuilding on it no matter what, but I'd like to at least find a usable cab. Some of the early '50's Diamond Reos seemed to havea similar cab (slightly different windsheild), so I suppose I could make one of those work if I had to, provided one is available.

Fingers crossed.

It seems to work very well on Revell and Moebius plating/undercoat. I leave it in a sealed container on the porch so the sun heats it up. Keeping it as warm as possible will help to speed up the chemical reaction. (Trust me- I'm a janitor by trade, I know how cleaning solvents work! ) Some manufacturer's thick undercoat (cough cough, Round 2) takes a little longer, but within 24 hours the plating and undercoating on the Revell and Moebius stuff was gone. A quick scrub and a rinse under hot water did away with the remainder. It also stays clearer than other strippers like Purple Power. I've stripped quite a bit of stuff in it over the last two weeks and it doesn't appear to be losing any effectiveness. Still haven't tried it on paint, but I've had pretty good luck with Purple Power there.

Sorry if it's two years late, but I did get around to snapping some engine and underhood (under-cab?) pics. The large springs just in front of the rad, where the cab pivots. A few engine shots- The accelerator linkage is visible in this photo- And a few detail shots- the rust on the back wall of the cab- Roof patina- The panel behind the seat- Some under-dash detail-

I've never had any significant problems there. On the other hand, I've had a few hit-or-miss problems getting the door gaps even and consistent.

Love it.

The finned head, possibly- once I master one with acutal head bolt detail. And I'm kicking around the idea of doing some Gibson-Binks speedboat parts like the intake manifold and two-piece head.