FujimiLover

That second picture look's like a 1/18 scale die-cast model.

Hmmm, never knew one existed. Will have to look into it. What scale is the kit? If it's 1/24, it might be worth getting just for the front wing if it's a separate piece. The rest of the car doesn't look so great judging from the box art. Wonder how good the kit is in itself? MPC I think is at the bottom of the food chain.

While building maybe a nice stress-releaser, it can also cause stress as well. Look at my updates on my KS 911. I'm upset with the bodies finish so far and feel like I want to quit building. At the same time, I want to finish this model to add to my collection and keep building my other projects. Building is a great stress-reliever no doubt. And it's very satisfying seeing something come together oh so perfectly. Please keep on building/posting!

Well, it's official. We lost Farrah Fawcett yesterday to cancer. She died at age 62 I think it was, will double check and edit. Also, for those who are fan's of the King of Pop, we lost Michael Jackson as well. I'm not a fan of his music at all, but just wanted to add him as well. I like his sister's music much better than his!

Well, I clear-coated her the other day. I have to say I'm not happy with the results. Too much dust and dirt got in the way as I didn't rinse it off before hand. I was afraid rinsing it off would cause the decals to come off and get lost in the sink. Would like to start over but not sure about stripping the paint. The red is enamel, but I think the clear coat is lacquer. At least that's what the cap says it is. Also, if I strip the paint, I'll destroy the decal's. The decals are special Koenig Special decals that are specific to this model. So, that's why I'm leaning towards getting another kit is for a new body. I'd post pictures of it, but I don't think you would be able to see the imperfections that I'm seeing up close and personal. So, sadly, this KS 911 is still on hold. This is some what bringing me down because the chassis and interior are absolutely perfect, beautiful, and gorgeous. I hate being so close to finishing, and having to take a step back to redo something. If anybody has any suggestions as to how to save the decals/strip the paint I'd appreciate it. Hate spending extra money "AGAIN" to finish one kit.

I have seen some really strange conversions done to a Countach. I've seen one stretched Limousine style, which was convertible AND believe it or not, had a hot-tub in the back! Try that one for size! If I can find a photo of one, I'll post it.

Are we talking about real racing cars, or street cars that have a theme? Real racing cars would certainly have a stripped out interior, street car you'd want all the comforts available. If you have a daily-driver/race-car, I'd keep most of the comfort, but at least add the racing elements such as Recaro-type seats, roll-cage, et'c. This goes for all type's of racing/street car theme's. One of my many, many, oh so many dream cars, is to have a street-legal daily-driver replica of the 98-99 I think it is, the Peugoet 206 WRC rally car. Here is how I would do it. Start with a stock Pug 206 car. Get the best of the best WRC replica body kit, big 18 inch alloy wheels from TWS or O.Z. Racing that replicates the ones the WRC uses, get a good set of springs/shocks lowering kit suspension upgrade. Keep all the comforts of the interior but add Recaro, Sparco, or similar sport seats, you don't want actual racing buckets as they'd be uncomfortable especially for long-distance driving. Tune the engine, get a nice exhaust system that closely sounds like the WRC cars, hopefully without braking the law's DB-level requirements. Get a nice Momo steering wheel, knob, et'c interior enhancements. I'd keep the body white, no racing graphics, no sponsorship decals, add carbon-fiber elements here and there. Keep it simple, clean, and neat. Yet, still have an awesome looking WRC replica for every day street-use. Sorry if I've gone a tad off topic here, but seems to me we're talking about how to create a certain look? Or did I mis-read this thread completely? Anyway, that's enough of my rambling on.

Fun topic! I prefer coil-over suspension's that can be adjusted for ride-hight and dampness. Some can even be adjusted with dials on the dashboard! Pro Touring, not sure what defies that either. Are we talking American version, or European class? I think even the Japanese have their own version as well. What about DTM, SCCA, and other such European styles? BTCC for example is another one? Mostly stock-looking Honda Accords, BMW's, Acura's, et'c, with simple wings, mild-skirt body kits, big wheels filling up the fender-gap, lowered, stripped out interiors, racing seats, et'c.

The 500 has always been my favorite model. I never liked the older Countach cars, thought they were a bit ugly. But the 500 and newer were pretty awesome. I wonder if anybody has ever made a kit of the Countach as seen in Cannonball Run. The way cool black one with the wing up front and the extra set of driving lights mounted under that frontal wing? Now that would be a cool kit, especially if it came with two lady-figures!

Holy Cow! That is a super sweet Countach with amazing life-like details! I have the 1/24 scale version of the Koenig-Specials variety and it is just as detailed as the big boy version. I hope mine comes out as good as yours!

I like that Murcielago!

I voted real. It is a touched-up photo of a real car. The tires look very good, then again Fujimi makes some highly-realistic tires too. But the windows and behind the windows look's real to me. It look's like other promotional or brochure photo's. I've seen very similar photo's done for the Honda Insight. I say it's real, but from a brochure.

When Dad is out of town, and I have the house to my selfe, I like to turn on my Itunes and pump up the volume very LOUD! That get's me in the mood to start building something. Music can vary a lot, so it's just the music itselfe that get's me pumped. Still, no particular music inspires me. Just that good feeling to start doing something creative! Where I live, out in Black Forest, I have five acres to my selfe with no neighbors to disturb, so it's nice to be in an environment where I can play it loud!

I miss being home and working on my Porsche! I hope the finish will be just as great as the others have been. I've noticed that when I painted the final few coats some dust/dirt have gotten on it, but unfortunetly, I've already applied the special decals for it. So, I'm not sure how to sand smooth the imperfections without risking the decals. Any suggestions? Or should I just leave it and finish it off with details, and clear-coat? I hope to be back home this coming weekend with a chance to finish it.

I voted real. Background look's good. But not on my super computer at home, so I can't see the nice details. LOL! On my brothers work-computer at the moment. Hopefully will be heading home from California tomarrow and will be home Friday-ish. I've no desire to own a camero, only an 88-89 Pontiac Trans-Am Knight Rider KARR replica will be my closest dream. LOL! So, as for those-details, I can't say either.

Isn't this the same as Playlist thread? Anyway, music really does not inspire me to build, just visions in my head of how I'd like a real car to be if I owned one, or just my dream cars such as the KS models I build. I wouldn't say MUSIC inspires me as much as movies would. Movies such as Cannonball Run, Condorman, Gone in 60 Seconds, Fast and Furious, et'c, any car-based movies will inspire me. Music? No.

The bodies do fit differently, but as I said, modifications have been done before to make one body fit the other type. I'm hoping the R8 will fit the AWD Mini-Z.

I've always wanted Kyosho to make that body for the 1/28 scale Mini-Z cars. But I'd leave it pure white. I don't care for the stripes. Awesome car.

If you want a really great chassis, go with Kyosho's MA010 AWD chassis from their 1/28 Mini-Z series. The AWD is far superior out of the box than Xmods. Xmods are good for kids, beginners, and they were cool for tuners as the original ones had optional body kits. I'm tempted to get the Audi R8 and put it ontop of the AWD Mini-Z chassis if/when I get back into the scene. I think Xmods did a great job with the Audi R8 from what I've seen in the boxes, but I'd like to get one out in the open and really examine it. While the two cars, Xmods and Mini-Zs are of same scale, they have different methods for mounting the body onto the chassis, so some modifications will be required. You will want to get the newer 2.4 GHZ AWD chassis as it will be glitch free, and will not require any crystals for operation. It is more expensive, but much more worth having than the 50 dollar Xmod. Plus their are much better higher quality upgrades for the Mini-Z as well. If you can save up to around 300, go for the 2.4. BTW, their are carbon-fiber driveshafts available for the AWD's!

I am replying with iphone, so forgive me for errors. I did just that, I placed the Model in a box before I left. Right now in Glenwood Springs and ha a nice soak in the beautiful hot springs this morning. On our way to Provo Utah!

While I like that green theme, I think it only works on that particular model. I don't know if it'll work on the newer generation. Paint flow, has got to match body lines. I prefer the red one.

Thank you. Right now I only have two decals on the body. The emblem on the hood, and the badge on the rear. Both are specific to this model and can't be replaced unless I buy same exact kit. So far, both decal's are looking good and have been since they were put on over a week ago. I just hope they remain there till I get back and till I can clear coat it. I do not have Future, I just use Model Master's high-gloss clear coat. Fortunately, when I did the interior, it was clear coated and so all those instrument panels and speaker's are protected very nicely. I'm just right now concerned with the two decals on the body. I don't want to come back home from California to see that the decals have fallen off or something. I probably should not have added the decal's till I was closer to clear-coating. But at that time I didn't think it would be this long of a wait. So the question is, if their still good now, will they be just as good when I get back in two weeks time? And how can I best clean the dust off the body without harming the decals? Usually I would rinse off the dust, but that can wash-off the decals as well.

Sorry, no updates. The weather has been crappy this past week. We need the rain which is good, but it's been constantly raining and it's depressing weather. Have not had a chance to clear coat or do anything with the model since trying to get Dad ready to go. I've got a concern with the decal's I've already put on the body. Will they be fine till I get back since their not clear-coated? I'm worried that the decals will eventually dry up and wear off, "fall off" the model? What should I do to protect the body in the mean time? Anything, or leave it alone?

I forgot to mention Gone in 60 Seconds, but I prefer the newer version with Nicolas Cage. I also forgot to add Independence Day, Death Race, "I purchased it from Itunes but didn't care for it much." Spaceballs, Smokey and The Bandit, part's 1 and 2. I thought part 3 was kind of lame. and how could I have forgotten Mike Meyers Austin Powers International Man of Mystery, The Spy Who Shagged Me, and Goldmember! I love Austin Powers got'em all three on my Itunes. Let's see.................D.A.R.Y.L. is another good one, War Games, and darn me I forgot one of my all time Mathew Braderic favorites, Ferris Bueller's Day Off! LOL! Of these ones listed, I have the Austin Powers trilogy, Death Race, and War Games. The other mentioned movies are wish lists. Oh yea, and of coarse Iron Man! That movie was really awesome! Got that one too! What is a good DVD to Ipod ripper for Mac's? When I was using Window's, I had a great one called Apollo DVD to Ipod and it worked beautifully. But I'm not sure if it'll work on the Mac.

evilone, I feel for yea on the money issues. I live off of an allowance of $400/month given to me by my Dad's trusties. This is the only money I have and right now it all goes towards debt's that I owe. When I sell my Kyosho Mini-Z stuff, it is easiest for my buyers to use PayPal which is fine. But I've discovered from past issues, that it is WAY to easy to spend money and get into the hole by connecting your PayPal account to your bank account. So, I no longer do that. There for, the only money I have available is when my credit card is in good standing, and when I have sold something. That being said, I basically have to use my own money to pay for shipping items that I have sold to pay back these debt's. If I can not afford to ship anything for that week, I won't sell anything or I tell the potential buyers ahead of time what is going on. I do the same thing when leaving on a trip. I let my potential buyers know that I'm leaving on a trip with Dad, and that shipping will have to wait till I get back, or I simply put the "sale" on hold till I return. So even though my buyers do pay for the shipping, the cash needed to pay the shipping store, still comes out of my back pocket! So I know exactly how you feel about not having the money to ship something and that really sucks when your trying to make good with a deal you've got going on. I'm on your side and I hope thing's work out well for yea buddy! Hang in there and thanks' for letting us all know. It does take great courage to admit we've made mistakes. Sounds like your on the right track!