FujimiLover

Thank you for your reply. I'm going to wait till Monday till I can get some bondo to finish the front with. Might just go ahead with the chassis/interior this weekend. That and/or get the rear started and ready.

Just a thought about the window. If there is a small crack in it, won't gap-filling CA-glue work? It's very thin stuff and can be a mess if not carefull, but I think it's designed for filing in gaps and cracks. You could try that to fix the crack itselfe and then polish it out.

Back to pre-putty stage.

Okay, I just re-epoxied one half of the front bumper. Later today or tomarrow I'll re-epoxy the second half. Question for Brendan, was there any splicing in half required for the rear bumper as well? Once the front peices are epoxied, I'll put the body aside till I can get some bondo. I dont' know where to get the correct putty for this, but since I've had experience with bondo before and I like it, I'll use it here.

I just now watched the video, and wow! That would save from alot of door-ding's you get in the parking lot. Some careless woman basically threw her door open and nicked my car's paint. Tiny little scratch, but still made me mad. And this was just after I had it fixed recently! That is a very clever idea. As far as structure is concerned, I'm sure they designed it to be safe. Is this a real concept or is this animated? Would love to see it up close and personal. Would be best idea for a convertible. Didn't BMW have a model way back when that had a half door which went down? I think it was a Z4 or something like that? Z3?

How easy is it to paint with Krylon White and what primer do you use for it? I've got two KS models that I might paint with this color.

I love your signature! LOL!

I think I like the Koenig better, look's alot closer to the real 962. Interesting how the Dauer 962's doors are one peice, where as Koenig's is two peice with the glass bit going gull-wing style, and the rest of it going lambo style. I just snatched off ebay today two more KS 1/24 scale model kit's. I found listed the Koenig Diablo, and the Koenig 911 bi-turbo. Still looking for 928 and Mercedes 500.

Can't wait to see what's in store for next week!

I may just stick with bondo as I've got experience with it. It's alot stronger than the green stuff. Right now I'm not sure where to re-start. As I dry-fit the parts together, some areas it's almost perfect, and other areas particularly around the headlight, it's not perfect. I'm not sure if I want to go ahead and re-epoxy it together again, or what. As I said earlier, I do have some bit's of plastic left over from a for-sale sign and I might build a "shelfe" for the bumper to stick onto.

Yea but this is plastic and resin, how is wood filler going to help? I also thought of gap-filling CA-glue for the bumper to nose seems. Maybe use bondo to blend the two halfs together.

Thank you, what putty are you useing again? Can you give me a brand name/type et'c? I want to make sure I'm useing the correct stuff on this project. I wasn't concerned about the bondo sticking to the resin, I was concerned about the bondo eating or hurting the resin.

I'm not sure I follow you. I think what you have in mind, or what I have in mind, is to not glue the two halfs directly onto the model as I did previously. But get a sheet of plastic and build like a shelfe that you stick underneath the hood of the car. Then glue the bumper kit ontop of that? Then fill in the rest of the space? With RC helicopters that have fuselages in two halves, one half will usually have a "shelfe" for the other halfe to be attached to when glued together. I picture doing the same here. I've got tons of plastic left over from an old for sale sign.

In previous models, I've actually ued automotive bondo to make my own bumpers as it fills in great, dry's fast, and easy to sand. I never thought about useing that on this model as I'm not sure how the bondo will effect the resin. As I've looked at aftermarket body kit's on cars before, I noticed the poorly done ones dont' fit perfectly. The professionally installed ones, the gap is all but practically gone. As soon as I re-epoxy the body kit onto the model, there will be that un-professional gap. How do I accomplish the professional-gap? The image on my box shows the professionally installed kit probably by Veilside themselves. The seem is almost none-existant. I mean, it's there, but you know. I beleive when I cut off the original bumper, I was as darn close to getting it perfect as humanly possible. So, the question is, how to re-gap it after installing the two side peices? Then, should I work with the bondo to fill in the center section? Anybody know how bondo will effect resin?

Well, we all got lucky. Just to satisfy you lot and hopefully me in the future, I was successful at cleaning the junk off the model. Unfortunetly, it required braking off the pieces from the model to get a good cleaning. Fortunetly, everything came off nice and clean and I can start over with the proper materials. And yes, this picture was taken a second ago.................................... A bit of knife work and lot's of wet sanding and finger pealing and it wasn't such a bad job after all. I still need to work around the headlight crack's where the putty just loves to sit. Any suggestions for this area? I used the knife to carve out the line, but how do I totally clean off the putty here?

I'm not even sure how to cleanly remove the current epoxy and green putty WITHOUT harming what's underneath!

As I keep saying, I'm broke so I've gotta use what I've got and make it work.

My local hobby shops don't carry anything other than this and I am flat broke. So sadly I've got to make do with this. Possibly the epoxy over it will seal it and prevent the shrinkage? Anyway, we'll see how this comes along.

Great, now he tell's me! Yes, I'm useing Squadron as it's the only putty I can find. Right now I'm flat broke so wont' be able to get anything else anyway so I'm stuck with what I've got. So far it's working for me. Anyway, I decided to give it some strength between these two parts so I epoxied it here. You can see the glossy epoxy. Of coarse, the epoxy will require even more sanding with a harsher sandpaper than the putty will. This model is going to take along time.

Patients and perfection is something I'm learning. I've built model cars all my life but none have turned out perfect. The Fujimi Veilside kit's are really going to test my skills, patients, and perfectionism. Thus one reason why I chose this catch phrase as my signature. "Quality Takes Time" A post office my Dad and I like to go to alot has the best sign ever. "Good, Fast, Cheap. Pick any two the third ones impossible." If you want the best, you can't rush it. Growing up with a heart condition, I've really never learned how to work hard. So it took me ages to learn how to work to my full potential. Still learning how to go full-throttle...........................and how to complete the job!

Years later of sanding! LOL! There is still a minor crack between the two peices. Thinking of maybe putting some epoxy here in the middle? Can I sand down the epoxy smooth? The green putty did help alot in filling in this gap, but I think it's too soft to use as a bond. So maybe add epoxy as well? Let me know what you think.

I don't get the point of having different wheels on the other side.

Go to the model airplane section of your hobby shop, get a sheet of chrome monocoat. Make sure it's the kind with the sticky backing. One sheet of this stuff will last you for ton's of models. Cut close to the size you want, peal+stick, then trim carefully with sharp knife. For the interior mirror, do this while the part is still on the "tree". Then paint the rest of the mirror. I think this sheet costs between 5-10 dollars, maybe even 15 I can't recall exactly. But as I said, PLENTY for lot's of models.

Maybe those tires are full of drugs and that's why their not squishing like we'd expected. So what's that thing doing under the rear of the car looking like it's giving support? And since it's real, where is that sunset?

I've never heard of the Dauer car. Can you post a picture of it?