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FujimiLover

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Everything posted by FujimiLover

  1. I totally agree, they dont' suit the style of the car at all. I e-mailed the seller and he replied quickly saying that all of Fujimi's Veilside models have the same style wheel set in the kit, and none match what's on the photo. He think's Fujimi expects you to buy "proper" wheel set seperatly. I have one set that I intended for my RX7, but dont' know how they'll look on these kit's. They are a six spokes and look alot nicer than these "lowrider" wheels. I THINK I know where to get a set similar to the BBS-ish wheels, but not sure about the five-stars.
  2. I'll use the typical "CA" glue for the body kits. I've just discovered, unfortunetly, that the wheels that are included in with the kit's, dont' match what is showen on the box! The MR2 has the BBS-mesh type wheels, and the 350Z has five-star wheels. But, in the kit, it shows some wheels which I think are some what ugly! Would anybody happen to have/know where I can get the proper style wheels from?
  3. The two Veilside kit's I recently purchased. One of theme appears to have a resin body kit. I've never worked with resin before and was wondering if I prep it and glue it like normal plastic?
  4. Update: All four models got shipped out this morning. The two Veilside kit's are coming from Tawain I think via EMS so they should be here Friday/Saturday. The green MR2 and Honda Insight are coming from Hong Kong by regular air, so they should be here in two weeks time. He sais 8-16 days I think. I didn't get an option for EMS delivery for the green MR2, so it'll get here when it gets here. Looking forward to building the Veilsid kit's! It'll be my first taste of resin as their body-kit's are resin-made.
  5. Hey, we're only guessing here right? It could be either that's as he sais is the point of this thread. Very well photoshoped it maybe, but still somthing looks odd. I do tend to look at the background more than the model as the models can be more convincing than the surroundings. Just something about that sunset's coloring look's odd to me. Could be wrong, could be right, wont' know till Friday!
  6. How about useing the molded color as your base color? I think the two Veilside kit's I've got coming are probably molded gray. Fujimi does that alot. Then again, I've noticed that sometimes, even the plastic, particularly the gray molded models, have these dark lines in it that would look horrible on a finish.
  7. I have a hard time pictureing black "smoked" chrome. Got any sample pictures? And what happened to the photos of the Nissan and Cobra? Remember the classic WWI and WWII planes that were all polished aluminum and shining like chrome? Those must be an &itch to polish at museums.
  8. Graduation tassles I can see, pride. But why dice?
  9. It wasn't the fuzzy dice. It was the "fuzzy driver" after a few drinks........................... I too hate the term pimp, and I really hate the phrase, "my bad."
  10. How about this one? A Toyota Supra 2.0 tuned by I assume a company called 345? At least that was part of the description. Lok's like another one of Fujimi's wide-body creations. Love the matching wheels!
  11. I'm interested in useing real window tint for tinting models. I'd never thought of it as being usefull or easy to work with. Can you give us a tutorial? A few years ago, there was something called Insta-Tint designed for RC lexan windows. It came in nice large sheets, smoked color, and sticky backing. You could cut to shape, and stick it to your desired window. I haven't seen it in years but if you could find it, stock up! However, if I remembered correctly, it was difficult on complex windows, and you had to apply it very, very smoothly as you could easily get bubbles in it. I've also tried the Tamiya window tint and had poor results with it as well. Perhaps an airbrush version would be better? Also, how would you use that "detailer" stuff?
  12. Well, you've seen mine in other threads already but I'll play along! Bone stock except for Momo gear knob. There is an outfit in Florida that's developed a turbo-kit for this car but it's out of my price range for now. So she remains stock. With 55mpg city, and 70-sometimes 80mpg highway, you can't really complain. While she's not fast, she's certainly very slipery and feels fast. Almost hard to keep her at the speed limit, very little resistance.
  13. So it starts off in "future projects", to here, to "on the bench" and hopefully ends up "under the glass"? Can we start a junk-pile thread for failed projects?
  14. Yes, I saw it after I've posted that message............................still expensive.
  15. Thank you, that sounds promissing. Will try it some time............................
  16. The fact that my Insight's skin is aluminum, I had often thought about having the paint stripped and just simply polish up the aluminum itselfe. However, I've heard people with Deloreans and it's stainless steal skin that they have to polish it often to keep it from oxidyzing. I've also found out that chromeing a car would be VERY expensive and probably way beyond my budget will ever allow. Right now I'd be happy to just have this Ebbro model as close to my real one as possible. I wish the dashboard was more even left/right side so I can just cut and paste, but sadly it's not and I dont' want to damage it trying. So, it'll remain a righty. The other downside to a fully chromed car, is I wouldn't want to be blinded by one and having an accident!
  17. Thank you, that will help alot. I was hoping to convert the dashboard to left hand drive, but unfortunetly, the Insight's dashboard ain't cymetrical enough to do that. Here are some pictures of my current model. You can see the dashboard, the red interior, and the racing seats. The inside of the body. It seems pretty thick and not to complex. My real Insight's interior is a two-tone black and gray. I'll be useing the light gray I used on my RX7.
  18. Thank you, it would be helpfull to know the name and brand of the paint stripper. Some will harm plastics, but there shouldn't be any plastic left on the model. However, I dont' want something terribly toxic either! As soon as I receive my model, I will start posting the process here. Thank's! Oh yea, can I polish up the bare metal to a nice shine? Any idea what it would look like?
  19. Thank's guys. I am pretty much broke after buying the four models, so I won't be getting an airbrush anytime soon. I'm hoping to get one for my birthday this coming May. I just recently had my real car fixed and paint touched up by a friend of mine who works on real airplane and car bodies. I'll ask if he has any paint left over and/or ask him for the paint code and get the same people who supplied me the Metallic gray to mix up a batch in their handy spray-can. Their paint was very user friendly. The question is, can I just prime and paint over the stock paint, or is it better to strip to bear metal? Also, what's the best for stripping to bear metal? The gray Insight model was just simply painted over.
  20. Hello. You know by now, that I have purchased and will be getting soon a die-cast model of my Honda Insight. I wish to repaint it to match my real car, When I did my previous die-cast model, I had used a light gun-metal gray. While this one look's okay, it still does not match my real one. So, what's the best method to accomplish this finish? Should I strip the stock paint and bring the model back to bare metal? Can I just simply polish up the bare metal to a nice finish? What color primer, base-coat, clear coat do you recommend? Somebody on another thread suggested a Tamiya silver. Should I get the paint code of the car itselfe? I recently had the car fixed and paint touched up by a local buddy of mine and he maybe able to help me with the paint code. Need advice on this as I want it as 100% close as humanly possible and it should also look right for the small scale model as well.
  21. Thank you, as for chrome, while my cars dont' use alot of chrome, but there are some chrome for example some wheels, exaust pipes, suspension parts, exaust parts, maybe some engine parts. I'm not really looking for a mirror-like finish, but I dont' want a dull-silver or aluminum finish either. So, that's why I'm looking for a real nice chrome without it being too "showy". Hope this makes sence. I looked at that web site, and the video they showed of the guy painting that square peice with the chrome paint look's pretty convincing. These day's, I dont' rely on video as proof since we all know it can be "edited". However, it does make it tempting to buy it and it did answer the question that it's available in spray-can! Wow, this stuff look's awesome, but sure is expensive. However, it look's like their can's are big enough that it should last you for several model kit's. So it maybe worth buying one can for say maybe five or so projects? Look's pretty sweet to me! I think this maybe the best stuff yet, too bad about the price tag though.
  22. I think last time I looked for it, the LHS guy said it was under a new name. I'll check next time I'm down there. We have two Hobby Town's and one which I like better is unfortunetly much further down town than I like to go sometimes. They have all the good stuff that the closer shop doesn't have. Funny how that works isn't it?
  23. Web site look's cool, I'll have a look, thank you! "Spendy" maybe an issue howver, plus could be tricky to apply to a model and I doubt they have rattle-can.
  24. It's always fun to shake your "can" with Itunes pumping out your favorite music.
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