dwc43

Great build. I have on that I am trying to rebuild. I was wondering where you got those hood pins at. They look great.

I have an engine stand similar to that and it came out of a Lindberg 34 Ford pick up kit. You could build either a flat head or a V8 and put one on the stand and one in the truck.

Looks good. Need more and bigger pics though. Some engine interior shots too.

Get the Revell 69 Camaro Baldwin Motion car. IT has a 427 in it. IT looks good to me. It's 1/25 though.

The track of any car is measured from the center of the left tire to the center of the right tire.

Same problem here. I have a 392 supercharged Hemi that turned out not too bad, but it's bigger than it should be. I have a Hilborn injected 426. It's split between the block and the top of the bores, making a top and bottom instead of it being cut long ways making a left and right like a regular model kit engine. None of it has a flat surface. Once filed down to fit, now it's out of proportion. Some of them look good on the site and I'd like a hyper pak slant six, but not for the price and the quality issues.

First off fuel lines never go through the interior of any car street or race for safety purposes. Your kit is correct. The fuel line comes from the cell and runs through the frame to protect it from anything that might come under the car, or a broken drive shaft whipping around, etc. etc. etc. It comes out of the frame to the fuel pump on the right front of the engine and goes from the pump to a larger canister type filter and then to the carb. I have pics of the real car too if you need reference pics.

Here's another shot of the K frame. You need clearance for the Hemi. This is Petty's 72 Dodge Charger just in case you are wondering. Notice the side mounts on the frame for the K frame to bolt to instead of it bolting up underneath the frame. The torsion bar mount still has a complete frame section that goes over the trans with a mount under the trans, but it has been fabbed too.

The only reason I got the resin body is for this car. I've never seen it in plastic and he has some other race cars that I have never seen in plastic either. I'll post some pics of a K frame for ya. As you can see the K frame is square tube. Not a stock piece for sure.

Ok. After reading your post I went and grabbed the body to check. It's very thick, so I did not think it would bend at the rocker, but it does. But, it presents a second problem. If you squeeze it just a little, it makes the rear window and trunk lid bow out. Yes, I am replicating a specific 1:1 car, so I'll need the T bar front clip. I'll also be scratch building my own roll cage for this one too. I don't like doing that, but I have built a couple cages before. I don't have the patience for it. I've only worked with some resin parts and engines before. Is it common for the body to be so thick compared to plastic?

It's not the wheelbase that bothers me. Even if I used the lumina chassis I would remove the front snout and put a torsion bar front end on it. My biggest issue is that nothing I have has a frame section that comes close to making contact with the rocker panel area. The bag end looks good on the lumina. All it needs is some trimming of the wheel tubs and some something added to it to close in the rest of the gaps in the bumper area. I just don't think it would look right if I filled the area between the frame and rocker panels even though the gaps are not as bad on this chassis.

I have that Road Runner chassis and while the rear wheel wells are super wide and easy to trim down, the width at the rocker is even more narrow than the Super Bee pic shown above. So that one wont work either. I need to send those pics to SMH and prove to him they don't fit. I still think it's cast off of a die cast car.

Here's pics of three I tried. Everyone I get a hold of is to narrow at the frame to meet the rocker panels. I don't mind trimming the wheel wells to fit the quarters, the rails have to meet the body. The front clip will be replaced if need be to get the torsion bar front end. Monogram T bird Monogram Lumina MPC Super Bee

Yeah, it's too big. I've had to of them new in the package that I got in a trade from someone on here. And they were both a royal pain to build. Matter of fact, one of them is still not completed because it's so poorly cast.

You'll have to tell me who Brand X is. lol. You can pm me if you don't want to post it.

Looks good. Don't stop now, get r done.

No, I want to build a NASCAR race car out of it, but I can't find a chassis to fit it. On another note, I did finally find an e mail address from where I ordered the body from and sent them mail. He said it was not cast from a die cast car and to try an 80's NASCAR chassis under it. I did that already. I just received a Thunderbird and a Lumina from Steve a couple days ago. I tried it the same night I got those kits in the mail. It's too wide at the wheel wells and not shaped right and the frame rails are too narrow and don't come near the rocker panel area and the wheelbase is slightly off, but that last one is not a big deal to fix. I'd need to change the front frame rails to have torsion bars anyways.

It's a 78 Dodge Magnum. They give absolutely no info on a chassis that can be used on the body on there site. Been meaning to try to e mail them, and I just keep forgetting to. Since I posted it, I will try to remember to e mail them today. Here's a pic before clean up.

I have a resin body I got from Southern Motorsports Hobbies. I think it says SMH Resins in the inside of the trunk lid. It's a race car body and I can't find a chassis to fit it. I think it was cast off of a diecast car cause I have never seen a model of this car made and the body is wider than anything I have in my stash. I know since it's a Mopar I would be cutting off and changing the front stub to get the torsion bar front end on what ever I use for a chassis. Thought I might use the front rails from the Supper Bee kit since they are already separate from the chassis pan. My body work is not the best, so my question is how to widen a chassis to make it fit? IF I can find one that is close on the wheel well area I want to use it. I thought maybe just add styrene evergreen flat pieces to the side of the chassis rails and file and sand it down that way, but it would make for a very wide out of scale frame. I think cutting it from the wheel wells and widening it at the trans tunnel will be beyond my skill level for now. Any suggestions?

Welcome,anytime.

Nice detail. I like the exhaust work. Looks like the weld marks made on the boom tubes that they use from dr gas. If you want to look at the real pipes they get them from www.drgas.com One thing, not to nit pick or anything, the weight jack screws do not come through the glass. They actually have this funnel shaped tube that comes almost right up to the glass itself. And most use a red circle around the glass to draw attention to it. The adjusters are the black rods in this pic. They don't even come close to the holes in the glass.

Welcome,anytime. Nice build so far. I got the chance to judge a real car like this at a local show one year. You may have seen the same car in Hot Rod and Car Craft.

Here's a site with the restoration piece to move the master cylinder over with, if you want to make one, you now have a good pic of it. http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/19hemor440ab.html http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/chucker54_2113_140314237

Thanks. I need to get back on this thing and finish it someday soon.

Not sure what you are looking for, but I'll post some pics of an old tow truck that I have started that is also from a movie called "Hot Rod". I already built the hero car the Willy's from that movie and have the Olds left to go after I finish the tow truck. It will be a faded black and white truck.