dwc43

Where's the pics? They all gone.

Looking good.

Looking good so far. See if you can get the dist in that little crook to the right of the rad hose connection. When you look at it, you can will see the spot I am talking about for sure. Can't wait to see it finished.

Some would catch that too, because of the ex. manifold design. I'm sure it's because most of the people that run the wires like in that first pic just don't know. So, if I can, I throw out a hint that will help it look more realistic. I know I have learned some great stuff on here myself, so try to share. Being a big Mopar guy, The big block dist angle and plug wires over the manifold instead of under it always sticks out to me for some reason.

Before you wire the plugs, here's a hint. I noticed in an earlier pic the wires are between the cover and ex. manifolds. Impossible, on the real thing at least. They run under the manifolds and the plugs are under them as well. Makes it a real pain to change them on the real thing.

Looks good. So does the pics. Just don't post them as thumbnails though. When clicked on they don't always fit the screen. Better to post them full size in the post.

That's pretty close for the light. Now to get the clear red in the center of it should be fun as well as the amber in the front lights.

You cold also build it as a wrecked car if you can't get the warp out. Just warp it a lot of different places .... lol. Build you a phone pole and wrap it around that.

I think that color looks better than the other one. Good job. Having painting issues myself recently. Sometimes it turns out great and sometimes it does not.

Looks great.

You can get some Mopar engine colors from Advance Auto and you can mail order all of Mopars engine colors from the 50's up from any dealer, Summit Racing, or Mancini as well. My local Advance does not carry all the colors so I just mail order mine from Summit Racing. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=Mopar%20Engine%20Paint&dds=1

I thought this would be a good place to post this to get more traffic and not have to post it in several places. I found this site by accident and wanted to share it with all. I'm sure someone can use it for reference pics or copy them and make decals of there on. It has racing type decals from the 50's to some present day stuff. Covers everything from drag racing to salt flats and NASCAR. Stuff like Sun gauges to old Isky cam decals and all sorts of stuff. Took me forever to scroll through the whole page. Hope you all enjoy and can use it on your builds. http://www.cartype.com/pages/369/racing_decals__emblems

Looks pretty good.

Looks good.

Another great looking car from Nashville Fairgrounds past. You know Sterlin lives in Columbia right down the road from a friend of mine. One pro that has never forgotten where he came from. Real nice guy. I've raced against his cousin Jay Bird at Duck River Speedway many times.

Oh, I forgot. You can use the NASCAR A arms on the Mopar frame after you cut off the wimpy A arms they molded in on that frame too. It will look more realistic that way.

Well, I asked the ones I bought it from and they said stick a NASCAR chassis under it. Well I sent them pics of every NASCAR chassis I had right down ot the old 70's MPC chassis and a MPC Super Bee chassis that I have been sticking under almost all of my Mopar's lately to up the details. None of them were even close to being wide enough. I finally found one that will work with a lot of mods too it. Find a AMT Monte Carlo primer car. That's the only one that will come close to working for this build. Get you an MPC 70 Super Bee kit. Use the front frame section from the kit. You'll need to file down the sides of the arms on that frame just a bit on each side. Cut the front snout off the AMT Carlo chassis and the T Bar frame from the Bee fits in there like it was made that way. You'll have to do a lot of hand filing on the rear fender wells of the chassis to make it fit around the wheel wells correctly. Then you'll need a hair dryer. Look where the shocks mount and you'll see a seam at the rear near the tank area. Heat it here and bend the rear portion where the tank is towards the deck lid of the car. Work slow, but you can get it right in ten minutes. Then you'll have to clearance the frame for the leaf springs. Use the springs from the Bee kit as well, but use the Carlo rear axle. The spring will fit just to the outside of the rear axle cooler grid you see on the floor of the car. The spring mount will go beyond the frame you are removing. The frame is actually holding the spring off the chassis and needs clearance. Once you get both sides done, you will see the rear springs sit where there is a slot in the chassis on both sides of the fuel cell area. I'm going to fill these in and make an adjustable rear hanger. I'm going to use the 340 from the AMT 71 Duster kit and some of the NASCAR engine parts and aftermarket stuff to create the 358 for the car. That's about as far as I have got on this deal. The Carlo kit roll bars will work too, but I'm going to rearrange them as need be for accuracy. Hope that helps. Got any more questions about it feel free to ask. If you want a pic of it, send me your e mail in a pm. I wont post pics of it here till I get all my parts and paint and get ready to build it all at once.

Cool. I never thought of that. Been using styrene rod to make mine out of or using kit cages cut up and modified when needed. I'm working on a Petty Magnum. It should be interesting subject when I get it done.

Yep. I think I have a you tube clip with that car on it. Keep um coming. Looks good. Is that one of Fred's roll cage kits?

You should take this to the show next month. I had a 40's Willy's from the movie Hot Rod that took first and a chopper from the tv show MASH that took a third at this show. Don't think I'll have anything ready in time this year. November 6, 2010 - 3rd Annual IPMS Murfreesboro Show - Sponsored by IPMS Middle Tennessee, Lane Agri Park, 315 John Rice Blvd., Murfreesboro, TN For More Information Contact Novus Henry (615)478-2305 or visit: http://ipmsmt.ning.com/

I don't know what system you are using to store your pics on, but they should have a different code that you link to your thread. Most use photo bucket or something like that and all of them are a little different. I use servimg.com. It gives me several links to choose from that makes the pics thumbnails, full size ect. ect. You'll just have to play with the site you store your pics on and find out.

Thumbnail. You can click on them and they get full size and you can use a next button to go through all of them. Looks pretty good. Just need to use a different code to post full size pics. I prefer the full sized ones myself over the thumbnails. They look good though once they are blowed up full size.

Shelbyville. I had a younger friend that lived out your way. He was helping me build my new shop. He found a girl and moved to Nash. with her and now he's useless ... lol. Small world. As for the track, there's still a group fighting for it. Not sure why it can't be put on the Historic Registry site? That would keep it from ever being torn down. I've been going to it off and on since the 70's myself.

Nice looking car. Where about are you in Tn? I'm about an hr south of the track myself. Too bad they are trying to do away with it. That thing is over 100 years old and has so much history too it.

The mint car looks nice as always,but I'm pretty sure the Elvis car was a convertible. I know the replica in the Country Music Hall of Fame in Nashville is a convertible. The real one is supposed to be on display at Graceland. I read somewhere that a restoration company was allowed to document it to make a replica of it so they could send it out on tours too. The mint car looks nice as always,but I'm pretty sure the Elvis car was a convertible. I know the replica in the Country Music Hall of Fame in Nashville is a convertible. The real one is supposed to be on display at Graceland. I read somewhere that a restoration company was allowed to document it to make a replica of it so they could send it out on tours too.