dwc43

Thanks. And by the way, I love that avatar. I had to copy it and save it to my pics. Good one.

That's not what he is getting at. Look at how the show brought people together with a common interest and got the cars that are left and restored them. I don't agree with the ones that built replica after replica either. Seen one, seen them all, but even those have an increased value within that group of people, just not what a restored car would bring, but it's easy to change them back. All it would require is a repaint and the correct colors and drive line. If it were not for the show, the replicas might have vary well been left to rot somewhere in the woods instead of on the street as a replica.

The Dart, yes. There's a big following for the slant six cars and they are not lame by fare. One of the best corporate engines ever built. Dang near indestructible. As for the 49, HECK yes. I already stripped on POS that had a nova subframe under it with a chevy engine. Should have seen the look on the idiots face when I told him what I was going to do. Now it's worth 20 times more than it was with it's crappy little 350 and subframe under it. As for the Pontiac, I don't know exactly what it is, but yes it will be worth more restored, period whether you feel that way or not. Feelings don't really have anything to do with it. As a drag car, it's pretty much worthless. You can find drag cars all day on craigs and e bay and other places that have had tens or thousands of dollars put in them and then they sell for 5,6 maybe 10 grand when your lucky. No race car is worth what you put in it ever. Same way with dirt mods that race with 50 to 75,000 dollar engines. I've seen more than one sell for 3000 and all you needed to do was add your engine and trans. Do you know that the qucik change rear is 1500 for those car alone when new, then add the cost of the belts and seats and some other small parts and your are way over the other 1500. See, you never get your money out of a race car. NEVER. So yes, it's better off restored, it will actually gain worth as the years go on if properly maintained.

Do you really think you can get a honda with one of those fart cans to jump a creek without a JATO rocket strapped down in the hatch back ?? LOL!!!

How about these from a quick google search. http://homepage.mac.com/ssven5/Sites/Svensworldofwheels/images/72bluemax_mustang.html http://cgi.ebay.com/%22Blue-Max%22-Richard-Tharp-1973-Mustang-NITRO-F%2FC-Photo!_W0QQitemZ120539235194QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20100307?IMSfp=TL100307161008r28907 http://www.gasolinealleyantiques.com/kits/images/CarMPC/mpc-bluemax.JPG http://images32.fotki.com/v1047/photos/1/1090729/4751594/BlueMaxFlamed-vi.jpg http://www.modelroundup.com/images/amt21726.jpg

Wow. Nice build.

Restore to orignal factory specs, hands down. Worth much more that way especially over say a cloned 318 car to a Hemi car. And any car can be restored, right down to nothing but a shell. All it takes is time and the correct info for the build. With the parts available today, you can restore just about any car in any shape. And to steal your quote "After all... there are only so many old cars still left, and they ain't makin' any more of 'em!"

Thanks guys. I finally got my paints and painted up 8 of the AN fittings. I might need a couple more, I'll wait till I get to running my lines to make sure. Here's a pic from the thread titled old school rail that I am using the AN fittings on. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28138&st=0

Well, here's a little update. Still waiting on some parts to show up. I drilled the fuel tank and added a mount to glue the AN fitting and braided line to and painted it aluminum. Got the barrel valve and linkage painted. Need to mount it, but I'm going to wait till I have the injector lines run first. It might get in the way of that. I added two lines to the top of the dual oil filter set up to make it look more like the real thing that I have used before. The AN fittings will go on the side with the longer pieces on it. Also got the AN fittings painted with some help on picking the correct colors to use. They look great too. Most realistic looking thing on the car so far. Going to work on the side skirts that fit inside the frame that protects the drivers legs and lower body from the frame work and tires. I am most determined to finish this one before I start anymore projects. Next one will be the '65 'vette from the '80's tv show "Stingray" thanks to a trade with Phil.

Will do. I'll still have to check and see what I have and then check the store Monday and see what they have available. Thanks again for that idea.

Thanks for the idea. I have some in my tool box used for polishing cranks and bearings and such. I'll have to see what grit that is. If not the right grit I know just where to pick some up.

I bought some kits to bash and put the rest in my race car stash and forgot about them. I ran out of parts for my old school rail and was looking for something to do. I need to make clearance for some wider taller tires on a 69 camaro. On a back yard race car it's no big deal to just wrap some sand paper around the correct size pvc pipe and go to town. But I have a set of 69 camaro, mustang, chevelle, and challenger set aside to build into race cars and I want that factory built trans am look to them. So I'd like to keep the fender opening with factory look to them. The camaro has a distinct lip around the fender for chrome trim. I think I only need to remove that amount to make everything fit. I was thinking of using a round diamond file so I could control the removal of material and keep it uniformed by starting at one end of the fender and dragging it across to the other side. It should remove an equal ammount and follow the contours, right? Got any better ideas?? Not sure I want to try a motor tool for this. I'm afraid I'll screw it up real quick and end up using the pvc and sand paper anyways.

I'd never destroy such a classic original car like that. What a waste of a parts catalog time and money. Should have restored it to factory original and then they would have had something.

Sorry to hear this news. Your family is in my prayers.

If you put square tanks under it instead of round and leave the pockets but take the stake rails off and cover it in mud and or rust and dents it would look like half the truck used on horse farms around here.

A friend asked if there is a place in Alabama that chrome plates plastic. I had no clue, but I figured someone here might know. SO can someone help? If not in 'Bama somewhere real close by?

This must have been the one I saw with the flat hood. I don't think it's in there parts section. Might e mail them and see if they will make you just a hood. If there's another site with a flat hood, I must have misplaced the link for it. http://www.compresins.com/site/751597/product/CR-8002

Someone makes the flat hood in resin so you can make NASCAR cars out of them. I'll see if I can find the link.

Great score. Glad you found what you needed.

Yeah, the 70 Road Runner was my last drag car. Big block, TCI A727 and stall, 8 3/4 with 4.30 gears and 11 inch slicks out back. Sorry, that is the only pic I have of this car. Wished I had more. And on top of that it got damaged somehow. That's where those white spots are. I got my AN fittings and finally got my paint for them last night. Got them painted. Still waiting on some pieces to arrive though. I need my resin driver so I can install the steering. I got the floor pan installed under the axle and driver area. I just need to cut and trim to side panels. Hope to make more progress between now and next weekend if some things show up. They may already be waiting in my PO box. I'll check tonight on the way to work for sure. I want to get this thing finished. On another note, I was at Hobby Town yesterday. In the bins where they keep the tubing they have some aero wedged shape pieces that would be perfect for building dragster wings. Just need to paint add side panels and your supports.

Looks too orange in that middle pic where the light hits it, but it might just be me. Use the paint code number from that site he gave you and check to see if you can buy touch up paint from your local auto parts stores. Here they come in a small bottle of only a couple ounces with a shaker ball in them and a brush to repair paint chips. You could put it in an airbrush and use it that way. A couple bottles with thinner should be more than enough to do the job. I found this clips by accident before I started reading e mails. Considering where you are from and Mopars and all, I wanted to share. It's an Aust. movie called Running on Empty, but here in the states it was called Fast Lane Fever. Not the best movie in the world, but some nice cars for sure. I watched this when I was a kid and have a copy of it somewhere. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5NpgDiHfYA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBi1gUR6H3Y

Welcome,anytime. If you have any questions about the car I'll be glad to help if I can. IT uses the std. B body chassis, so very little is different between say a '68 to '70 B body. When it comes to the chassis every piece will swap between those cars. I do build models of other cars, but I am Mopar through and through. Only cars I have ever owned or raced for that matter. All my family owned while growing up and I even had an uncle that owned a dealership and his son drove a Hemi pulling truck if you know what that is.

Allpar is pretty useless at times. And most of the info is just put on there by everyday people so it's not very accurate at times either. Maybe this will help you out some. I did not go through all of this, but it seems to be a good read. http://dodgerestoration.com/category/dodge-super-bee/ Slide show restoration might help a little. The engine block is the wrong color. Too dark. It should be the same color as the Hemi orange air cleaner. No way I'd give 30g for a car with a non original engine in it. The rest of the restoration seems to be pretty accurate though. There's an undershot of the car, but it's not a whole lot of help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZLfQ7PREV8

Don't want to hi jack the thread, but are those two tires glued together.

I always thought it was strange that they operated like that, but it worked. Even Dodge and Plymouth kept there racing divisions separate till the end in 78. That's why Petty got ticked off, cause Plymouth thought the Daytona was a joke and would not sell and they would not build one for him to race. So Petty jumped ship to Ford cause Dodge would not give him a Daytona cause they had a driver. Plymouth thought Petty could not win in a Ford till he proved them wrong over and over. They had to give in an build the Super Bird to win him back to the fold. Then the Charger was better than the Road Runner and he jumped ship to Dodge in 72.