Bruno

Alright, this one will is a very special build to me. I decided to build a replica of the 1:1 '71 Super Bee my brother had. This car was very special. It is believed to be the very first '71 Super Bee that came out the assembly line and had some features that were not available on a '71 Super Bee (for example, the charcoal gray/black interior was not available with FE5 red body color). That car was destined to be destroyed by Chrysler, but it somehow slipped out the door and was sold right here in Granby, Quebec. Those old Mopars all had a fender tag on the left front inner fender where option codes are listed, but this car had another fender tag on the right side with "1st job rramed" written on it. According to the Mopar specialist (can't remember his name but he his well known among Mopar fans) who decoded both tags, this is a typo and we should read "1st job framed". Anyway, the car was FE5 red with stripe delete option (only had the hood blackout), ramcharger hood, charcoal gray/black interior with bucket seats/console, it had a 440 six pack with automatic transmission. The car was featured in Mopar Muscle in '95, I did scan the pages so here's the article; Now to the model. I used the AMT '71 Charger kit, also bought the street machine kit to get the ramcharger hood and bazooka exhaust tips. I filled the door "gills" on the Charger body. Also got a resin superbee rear bumper, along with resin bucket seats/console, scratchbuilt T-handle shifter, sideview mirrors and 440 six pack from a Challenger kit. Paint is automotive basecoat / clearcoat and Keith Marks decals. Now I only need to get some hood pins

I use both. Sandable (thin coats)if I used body filler and / or have some imperfections to fix, followed by a thin coat or two of sealer. I like the Duplicolor sealer primer because it's thin and won't hide the details in the body.

Here's a pic from that page where you can see the AMT logo and it says "Authentic Model Turnpike"

Nice tires! Where's the link?

Very well done. Lots of scratch building in this one. Great work! Are you sure this is a 440?

Yes and no, your car is a Road Runner. But what if it was a Satellite? Many years ago I bought a '68 Satellite with a 273 2bbl auto and el cheapo everything. I restored it and cloned it into a '68 Road Runner with a nice modded 383 4bbl and 727 transmission(turbo action valve body,3500 stall converter), 8¾ rear end with 3.91 gears, fiberglass '69 six pack hood, wide steelies with M/T tires and many other goodies. And it was worth way more than a factory stock restored el cheapo '68 Satellite.

I say if you got a rare musclecar, like a real Hemicar or six pack or something like that, go with factory stock resto. However if you got a 318 or slant six factory car, do whatever you want with it.

Restore to factory specs, I say no. Get rid of the Chevy junk, I say yes

I use Testors dull cote. I sand the raised lettering with 320, then 600, then spray a light coat of dull cote, let dry, put the decals on, let dry, then spray another light coat of dull cote, let dry, done.

I use the Duplicolor primer sealer all the time and I like it. If I made some mods on the body with body filler, I first use a sandable primer, then after that primer is sanded and the body is ready to paint, I seal it with the primer sealer, wait 30 minutes and then paint right over it. If no mods have been done (no body filler used), I just sand the mold lines and correct imperfections on the body using 600 grit sandpaper, then scuff the entire body using a gray scothbrite, then apply the primer sealer right on the plastic body, wait 30 minutes and paint right over it. I've had no adhesion problems or any other problems with using this primer sealer right on the plastic using this method.

Nice dragster! Good job! May I ask whats wrong with the kits decals?

Nice work! Impressive detail! I just bought this kit, feel like building something different (I always build muscle cars)This will be my first dragster build in 30 years (I hate it when I say things like that, makes me feel so ooooold...) Now I got to find some rear tires/wheels, those slicks in the kit are way too wide. And the front wheels you got are different than the ones in my kit. The left and right wheels are different on mine, and I have no idea why?

Thanks everyone for accepting all that beautiful snow and giving us a chance to take a break from shovelling, I really appreciate it, you guys are great!

Little red Deora! I like it! Great job looks awesome

I completely agree with you Dave. And I also prefer not to use hobby paints, when painting bodys. The only hobby paints I use is for brush painting small parts. I prefer to use automotive paints when painting bodys, I think it's a lot easier to work with, faster, and a hardened finish that I can wash easily with solvents if I screw up (glue spot or paint spot while detailing...) without the fear of damaging the body paint. I use the basecoat/clearcoat system, and recently started using waterborne basecoat, which I like a lot because it's not harmful to the styrene like the solvent basecoat. I use a mini hvlp gravity feed spray gun for painting bodys, and spray only one coat of urethane clear to keep details and not fill everything with clear. Of course, all this needs practice, as Dave said. And of course, automotive paint is more expensive. And you need a place to use these products. I paint in my garage, only installed a bathroom fan to send the fumes outside. So here's the system that works for me, the system I am currently using; Primers; If I did some modifications to the body and used body filler, I will use Duplicolor filler primer in light coats, then sand with 600 grit sandpaper and spray two light coats of Duplicolor sealer primer. If no body filler is being used, I just "clean" the body (sand down mold lines and small imperfections with 600 grit sandpaper), use gray scotchbrite and lightly scuff the entire body and then spray two light coats of Duplicolor sealer primer. Now I'm ready to paint. Paint; - 2 or 3 light coats of basecoat - 1 coat of clear - That's it. If I'm lucky and there's no dust in the clear, polishing isn't even required. If there's a few dust spots, I lightly sand the dust spot with 2000 grit and polish with 3M automotive compound. When using urethane clear, it is best to sand and polish the next day, or it will harden and be really hard to polish. When using solvent basecoat, I insist on spraying light coats or it can attack the styrene. But with waterborne basecoat, that is not a problem. However, waterborne basecoat is slower to dry, I use a hair dryer to speed things a bit All in all, it's just like Dave said, It takes time and practice. Oh and I also found a technique to spray lacquers over enamels

Ahh now I see it finished! Great job! I love the color

Les maquettes du Quebec

I like those old turbo Mopars. And yours looked very nice! I got an old MPC '84 turbo Z kit in my stash, to build in the future, and I like that garnet upper/silver lower paint

Yup! It's a '88 Dodge Daytona C/S with a 2.2l turbo intercooled running 20psi boost. As you can see, it is now in storage for the winter Here's some summer pics;

Here's my car;

Are you Clark Griswold?

A model of the Possum Van! Awesome!

Oh yeah the red green show! Here's another great one;

Great job Adam! I really got to get that kit...

Yes they are. And they look really good on that Daytona. Great job Michael!