MoparWoman Jamie

Hi Rick, First off, thanks for the kind comments about the project here. 2nd off, I'm just doing my best that I can do. Alot of work have went into this project, I look for certain materials around town but it's hard to find certain kinda and at first my friend had s budget on the project in the first week he went through that real fast back 3 years ago. he told me he doesn't want the mode only for looks but what it to hold up very well as well. The real truck it's being pattern off of is in between a work truck and a show truck though.. and that is how my friend wants this model to look too. I told him if I had to scratch build certain things then I would go the extra mile and do it as this project means alot to the both of us as both had lost love ones.. and me and him are like brothers in a way so to speak. Your right some stuff you need you just can't walk into a store and just buy off the selves that easy at times. So you gotta do what you gotta do on some projects with what you have on hand. My friend and I try to work within a budget frame on certain areas on the build. This area was an area that was really no budget for and I have alot of tubing pieces on hand and I like working with metal's at times anyways. My friend and I both think this will be alot better then the original kit frame and thinner stuff you can get at times that can flux when certain amount of weight is added He likes this way so much better that he told me he wants me to do the trailer frame for the semi the very same way if I can when we get to the trailer build part.

Okay, just as promise by me afew hours ago. I did some work and also got some more photos to show of the sizes here between the new metal frame and the original kit frame. I will let the photos do the talking. I need to do some more work on the pieces though.

LOL, I don't kid around or mess around. When I say I'm going to build something, I mean just that. I could go the correct numbers route and look good then my friend and I could worry about the amount he has in stuff on it or I can go the heavy duty way and me and him not worry about the stuff on board getting broken just because we went with correct looks and not heavy enough. The original kit frame is to weak and not thick enough, and most of the kit parts has been braking on me. My friend (the one I'm doing the project for that picked the kit out told me he should have had me 4 years ago pick the right and good kit out instead of him picking out one he liked the box art of.. The kit frame is to thin don't like glues to much either. So I think the new way I'm going and heading with it and new frame will work alot more better and will also be heavy enough to support its weight and also the heavy stuff that is plan to go on board it as well. You speak about time on this project, my friend and I have 3 years at least on the project and no dead line on it at all. It's not just a project to him but rather something very very special too him as well and very personal to his family and relatives as well an means alot to him. He had two uncles that was close to him that was truck drivers in the family that are no longer around that went due to cancers. I lost my dad also due to cancer as well a decade back.

Nope, I am not kidding, sir. Plus due to the amount that my friend has in this project. I want something that is heavier to hold all the heavy stuff on board (not just photo ect stuff either). I'm not going for looks on this part and neither is he. We don't go off scale numbers, we go off of what we think will work and be better instead of looks. Because at times numbers can be wrong. Plus my local hobby shop only carries certain things always gets in small pieces of brass and copper stuff. Plus he always like to go through his fav places to get certain things, so I'm limited to metals at times. Maybe you like to send me a sheet of copper or brass? LOL BTW you all, the semi chassis shown here is the same longest as the original kit frame is as I measured it to it and hold it right up beside the kit one too each time I worked with the metal. It's the same height and longness as well. Even the original kit wall's and the copper frame walls are the same size. Same size.. I been marking each point and measuring things at each cut and bend to the original frame. I will try to photo graph this stuff later on here and post photos of it.

How do I open paint jars?... easy... with my hands. LOL Now if it's a jar that will not open, I brake out the pliers and go to town with the lid on the jar. Mostly comes right free real well. Only broke one jar top about 11 years ago by using pliers on the top. Was a close call to slicing my hand open too.

They also work great for '68 Charger side markers as well. Plus also as rivets too! Also good for door locks on the muscle car's and older cars with round door locks.

Hi you all, well I talked it over with my friend (the one I'm doing this build for) and after pointing out to him about afew heavy parts he had gotten for on his project here. I told him it would be best if the project had a metal frame instead of the weak kit frame. So he told me to go ahead and build one. So I'm scratch building a new metal frame for his project out of brass and copper. Here is afew photos so far. I have more to do on the new metal frame yet.. along with the radiator yet as well.

From what I gather of the stuff, the stuff is used on model cars that has a clear coat on them. The solution melts the decal down into the clear to a point where it makes the decal looks painted on. Once you apply the solution on the decal, don't at all touch the decal, as the decal will be that soft until everything has harden up (24 hours later mostly is good to touch the model).

Also, go on google and look up PayPal back ground.....

Just try some original epoxy glue. I'm trying to figure out what would work to kinda help you out man with that hinge problem of yours. Your doing and did one heck of a very find job on the build here as I love it alot.

Okay after seeing all the photos of your issue with the hinges, can I ask you sir, what kind of glue are you using? and are your roughing up the surface area before gluing?

Will do, and if you like to personal message me on here, please don't be afraid to do so.

If you want the weather effect to stay without coming off, then you will need a pastel sealer from the art dept of a arts and craft store. Plus afew paint brushes and some flat clear coat as well, sand the pastel off onto a tray, spray the clear coat onto a piece of paper, and some dull coat as well. Use the brush and dip it in the clear then to the pastel and then the brush onto the model car. Once you get the weathering to what you like, seal the pastel off with the pastel sealer and then give it a paint wash of a rust color. The pastel sealer will seal the pastel from the wash. When I say pastel sealer I mean just that, clear coat will desolve the pastel very fast only pastel sealer will protect the pastel and not desovle it at all. Juyst spray it on in mist coats and quite afew coats might be needed before anything else like in washes. You can always go back with the body color and cover some of the pastel up before doing a wash though. then after everything is done, if the body to shiny for your liking just hit it with the dull coat with afew light mists.

The guy I knew of told my friends that he stop doing decals because it was getting to costly to get the decal film. I'm working with another person that does decals also to see what I arrange for other people as well.

Yea, I posted up something yesterday matter of fact two things in this very thread and they was nothing bad or ignorite either at all and it seems it got deleted on here by one of the mods. I guess the truth hurts. I'm not posting anymore on this issue. Because all our replays with the truth will just get deleted from the looks of things as well. Oh well.. We want to help them get the word out about emodelcars and yet when we give them suggestions on how to help emodelcars grow they delete them.

I watch your work for the same thing too! But if you don't mind me asking, can you PM me on here of afew of the other builders that you watch? I like watching things like that myself. Keep the good model building work also man! Oh yea, I'm watching this build as well.

Done deal.

Bare metal foil over the face, then brush paint the area's and wipe away the paint on the bare metal foil.

I'm 3 Miles away from Knox PA, 100 miles north of Pittsburg.

I made afew jigs, and each fin was hand bent in the jig. The fins strips are each 1mm wide. I can probably do the jigs for folks as well, just send me a PM on here and we can work stuff out.

You know guys, please don't take this the wrong way. But so far I have not seen a photo ech piece that even comes close to looking like the real thing at all. They all look like screen mesh is all. Go on google and look up a radiator core and look at what they really look like and then look at those photo ech stuff. Here is a thread with a semi radiator I am building for a project that I am working on. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50471&st=120 Now the radiator in that project is like 1inch wide, and maybe 2inches tall, and I have 12 fins in that radiator. The 12 curly parts I hand curved done and like 1mm maybe smaller. If I could do this, then a company could as well.

I always used engine silicone to make small parts, it's about $6.00 in stores. I just brushed on some vasoline ($1.00 at dollar store) on the part I need to make a copy of and then I just put the engine silicon on the part easy and made sure it was covering one side, if it was a two side mold, I would just cover the part in the engine silicon and then stand that whole thing up on one side and then later cut the resin vent and breather hole in the top of the cast after I had cut the mold half way down the middle and got the part back out. Best thing about engine silicon is that you don't need to use any release agent on the cast before you do a copy of the part with the resin. Engine silicon doesn't hold the resin or bond to it like the other mold casting stuff does.

I like it! So what.. it didn't come out to how you was looking for it to turn out but the main thing is you are not giving up, you did very good on this project build of yours man. I say the next one you do will turn out even better! Also here's a tip and suggestion about the head lights, try next time using some clear epoxy, and some metal round stock (for the outer rim of the head light bezels) and glue it to the head lights plate.

I honestly think it's the customer that didn't understand it to well or something LOL. I see no issue here or game being played at all just like most of you all say as well. In a big company like that alot of times not every person there will know what is going on or what specials they have running. Best thing for the customer to do is call them back and talk to the main manager in charge not a employ! By talking with the main manager he will get right to the point and find out what is going on and 9/10 will make things right with the order. Sales desk service people is like people in stores rigging you out, they know only so much, But the manager knows way more. If you have a question on something, skip the sales desk people and go right to the manager.