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Very cool!!!!

Anybody else have more pictures, better yet any links on vintage drag racing engines?

I love them....

Very nice!!!

Very cool, love the color!

Is this based on a Japanese kit?

Incredible stuff, I am thoroughly enjoying and learning a lot!!!

E-mail Norm at replmincomd@aol.com, he does not have a website....

I definitely agree with JC on this, another category for F1 and the various other motorsports would be a good idea, I've had a lot of modelers telling me the same thing. Hopefully it can be done!

Very cool man!!!

Very cool my friend, pictures are great!!!

http://public.fotki.com/MCRUZ1/mama-meeting-januar/

Great work!!!

I definitely use plastruct to simulate the molding that separates the body from the roof and also for the strips that run across the top of the roof. Make sure to fill the middle part with a few heavy coats of primer, this way it will be easier to replicate the overlap on the strips of the roof. I simply airbrush a few coats of Testor's enamel Gloss Black from afar to create heavy orange peel. Once dry, I will sand lightly and then shoot either a semi gloss black color to dull down the gloss, of course if that is your color of choice.

I've never had this happen Gene, I use Mig washes and these are enamel based, don't know if a water based one would wash off but I still don't think so. I've had a few people tell me that they've used water based colors when trying this system and I am still to hear that it has been washed out. If you scribe those lines nice and deep, I just can't see that happening. You do have to remember that you can always add a bit more wash even after painting, that's the beauty of scribing the lines deep. Just make sure that there is no sanding debris when doing so.

Just remember, patience is the key. Start out making sure you don't put any kind of pressure on the scriber, even if it takes a long time. That's the key to getting the lines straight. Once the scriber forms the line, the knife will follow them easier.

Thanks Dave. If you scribed the lines deep enough at the start you won't need to re-scribe. You can always add wash at the end of the painting process, that's the beauty of this system. Just make sure that the lines are free of any wax buildup or debris before you add the wash. I wouldn't worry about re-sharpening the scriber, these instruments are always manufactured and designed to work in a specific way when they come out of production and if you alter anything they might not do the job as intended. I suggest you go out and purchase a new one instead of fixing the one you have. Just remember that the idea behind starting out with the scriber is to help start the process with the straightest line possible, the X-Acto knife does the rest.

Thank you guys, we had a terrific time! Pictures were actually taken by Lyle Willits.

http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/model-club-meetings-2013/mama-meeting-and-ho/

Awesome work!!

Looks terrific, great job!

Looks great!!

Thanks Jay. I don't like using tape on my vinyl tops, I'd rather create the texture with paint as I did here. This is Testor's Gloss Black airbrushed at 35 PSI and thinning the paint lightly. Why gloss? It creates a heavier orange peel which is what I was going for. I will sand it a bit once dry and finish up with a slightly duller coat of black, it's still a little too shiny.

http://www.fireballmodels.info/

I will be trashing the cheesy tires and use these meaty ones!