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You can also try scalefinishes.com. Great and quick service!

Some people know what to do with aftermarket parts, some people don't. It can go both ways. The basics however must always be observed, no question about that.

Very cool, nice job, definitely one of my favorite kits!

Great work!!

Very cool!!

Best part is that you get to remove the piece of BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH chrome work that comes with the kit. http://www.fotki.com'>Hosted on Fotki

Very cool, thanks for sharing, I will definitely get one of these!!

I have always thought about that myself bro, i must admit though that I have had a lot of fun playing around with this but yes, I agree with you, it is best to have the real chrome in there specially when it's a bumper or a larger piece.

Every time I use this stuff I have more fun than ever, I am always looking for better ways to make it look good. Lately, what I have been doing is polishing the gloss black to perfection just as you would your paintjobs on your models. The idea is not only to get a wet and glossy look on your black base but to also get it as near as perfect as possible because as many of you guys know, if you have a speck of dust or whatever, it will show on that part. Since I personally like using Testor's enamel gloss black, I make sure that it's completely dry after shooting 4 wet coats on the part. I place it in the dehydrator for at least 36 hours and after that, I sand it down and level it with 3600 and 4000 grit sanding paper or better yet, my sanding cloths. After this, I use the Tamiya compounds and finish off with them. After I shoot the Alclad, I wait half and hour and buff the piece to a high luster using flannel cloth. To me this is what really brings on the reflectiveness.... http://www.fotki.com'>Hosted on Fotki http://www.fotki.com'>Hosted on Fotki http://www.fotki.com'>Hosted on Fotki http://www.fotki.com'>Hosted on Fotki Would it ever match the kit chrome? I don't think so but with a bit of patience you can make this thing look very good.

Erik, a smooth glossy finish is certainly important but if you improve that finish greatly before applying the Alclad, that's where the trick is.

very cool, great color!!!

No need for the dremel, like the guys say. Scale is too small for this. There is a guy here that has very good success with it but if you are starting out with this, stay away from the dremel, YOU WILL RUB THROUGH!!!

Kevin, to me this is an honor, good luck with yours!

Thanks guys. I used Ford Engine Blue from the Testor's Lacquer paints, it is airbrushed. I have heard that it's still not quite the right shade of blue but probably looks right on mine because I kinda grimed it a bit....

Very cool and yes, that carbon trick with the mesh is very cool, much better than trying to get a decal to conform to such crazy surfaces!!

Very cool!!

Thanks, just go under images in Google, type '62 Corvette roadster and just go from there!

Looks great!!!

Very cool!!!

Oh my God Skip, you just made me cry!!! :lol:

So far, this is the engine and drivetrain....Sure some of you guys still want to avoid buying this one??? http://www.fotki.com'>Hosted on Fotki

Very cool, color looks great on it!!

Thanks guys. I like using Citadel paints for the washes on the engine and other parts, I also use a product called Rub and Buff, it's a silver pastelike product that highlights the high spots on the chassis and various parts of the engine. I also use pastels for the chassis to recreate a little bit of dirt and give the car sort of a slightly used look.

Thanks guys! The interior is rather simple, didn't do much there. For spark plug boots, I like to use hypodermic needles. (23gauge) http://www.fotki.com'>Hosted on Fotki

Thanks Kevin, the engine is one of the biggest reasons I decided to put this one together. It's really cool looking when completed!! http://www.fotki.com'>Hosted on Fotki http://www.fotki.com'>Hosted on Fotki http://www.fotki.com'>Hosted on Fotki