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Very cool man, I like it a lot!!!

What is the best color from Tamiya to duplicate the color on this car??? Thanks!!! Hosted on Fotki

This thing is looking very cool so far, I think the radiator hose is a bit too skinny but other than that it is very nice. That green color goes very well with the white and your interior work is awesome!

Very cool man, the white dash actually looks pretty cool too!!

Thanks Ed, that is a $1.96 can of Odds and Ends clear from WalMart.... I still need to rub it out and polish it once dry. I usually place the body in the dehydrator to speed up the drying process but as I said before, it's kind of a fragile plastic and I just don't trust it in the dehydrator at the moment. I will give it at least 2 weeks to dry before doing anything else to it, there is still a lot of parts I have to put together so I have the time...

Well, thanks a lot man.... How am I supposed to duplicate all those sscratches and dents now???

Why would I mind that??? You actually helped by getting the guys to write some history facts about the car!!! Thanks for all your replies, I am glad that I was able to get some outside pictures to show the true color of the paint.

Here are a few outside shots with the body cleared and ready for some wetsanding and final polishing at a later time. If you notice a few droplets of water, it was because of a little drizzle at the moment I took the shots... Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

I can't go to sleep early even if I have to work the next day so usually, my favorite building times are from 9pm to 1 and sometimes 2am during the work week. Of course, the next day during work I am very sleepy but it's just the way my body is accustomed. I love Fridays because I can build until 5am if need be knowing that I don't have to wake up early!! What's really funny is that I usually don't feel like building Saturday nights or the weekend for that matter....

Thanks Nate, great hearing from you amigo!!! On this particular model, I just went with white Krylon primer and didn't have any kind of bleeding issues, perhaps something you don't need to worry about with this Hasegawa type plastic but don't quote me on that, I may be wrong. I have heard of some modelers here using Future Floor Wax on the bare plastic before shooting either primer or paint on some of their projects and having success doing so, probably something you want to look into if you are having any issues.... By the way, Future is now called Pledge with Future shine, you should still be able to obtain it from Wally world or any supermarket around your way.

Very impressive work, another talented builder and one I will be closely watching!!!

I am keeping the tires, they will look good at the end and they don't look that "off-roadish"

Thanks bro, don't know how old the kit is but it's nice!

Thanks guys! The color is Pontiac Bristol Blue from Scalefinishes. I will take some outside shots so that the true color can be seen once I add the clear to it, the inside lighting is making it difficult to appreciate it.

Sunday evening I went ahead and painted the body. After letting it dry for 2 days, I added the brass color on the underside. Next will be the clear to bring it all together. I think these 2 colors really compliment each other well and once the rims and tires are added, it will really look nice..... Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

I also went ahead and started working with the body. I am finding out that the plastic on this kit is very brittle and fragile, I just have to make sure to keep that in mind specially when I start polishing off the body at the end after finishing up with the painting phase. As usual, I rescribed all the panel lines and smoothed and wetsanded the plastic with a 2400 grid sanding cloth. One of the things I didn't like was the fit of the 2 small hood grills, there was nothing to hold them in place. I decided to add a bit of plastic sheet stock from the bottom to create kind of a small lip to be able to accomplish this step. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

This is the actual photo-etch detail set. Hosted on Fotki After removing the chrome from the wheels, I went ahead and drilled some very small holes to add valve stems using some wire from my parts box. I airbrushed some primer and after this was dry, I added the brass paint and finished off with 2 coats of Tamiya clear. I added a black wash, installed the stems, added and also black washed the center knock offs and used the photo-etch emblems to finish them off. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Hi there fellas!!! Time to start on a new project and one that I have been putting off for quite a while. The inspiration for this one is 2 things, first, I am quite burned with the Muscle Car projects and second, I just want to do something different and European for a change. First thing I want to do is thank my good friend Randy Kern for giving me this kit, all I said was that I have always loved the lines on this car and also that I loved this kit and he just decided to give it to me! Thanks Randy, you are the best and I owe you big!!!! The other inspiration for my decision to build this kit is Mr. Alex Kustov, as a lot of you guys know, he has a very unique and phenomenal website called italianhorses.net. Even though he decided to paint his in a Bright Blue, Tamiya color, I decided to do mine in a different shade of blue but basically, I will be doing mine very similar to his, hopefully I will have the same success he had with his. The reference photos will also be of great help so, again, thank you Mr. Kustov! This image shows the actual box art and kit from Hasegawa, very easy to get sucked into building it with this nice art work! Hosted on Fotki I purchased the photo-etch detail set for this kit but will not be using all of the parts in it. The part for replicating the grill does not fit at all so I will not be using it. Instead, I will work with the one in the kit which looks pretty good. I did have to get rid of the chrome but decided to leave the signal light bezels intact, they should be chrome and will help me later when mounting the lenses onto them. What I did was just brush on a bit of Easy-Off oven cleaner on the grill section of the front bumper and sand and smooth the rest of it off. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki I will also have to remove the chrome from the wheels since they will be painted brass using Testor's Metallizers line of paints. I wasn't too happy with the way the chrome looked on the rims anyway, it was kind of grainy looking. Again, I just dumped them in Easy-Off and in a matter of seconds the chrome was gone! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Just awesome my friend, like the rest of the stuff you have us used to seeing!!!!

One word.... AWESOME!!!

If you want it to be pearl white, it has to be over a white primer or white base. I did this '59 over white primer.... Hosted on Fotki

Very cool my friend but the only thing I want to do is restore it when I see it.....

same here my friend and congratulations on the best of show win!!!!!!

Sorry my friend, I just took a picture of it, didn't even know who the builder was, it was sweet though.....