mrmike

Thanks Liam! Yes, I would highly recommend this kit to anyone.

Great job, Jonathan! The trunk lining looks great.

Thanks guys! I got it in a trade in a box of assorted parts and pieces. I left the headers unpainted since they looked to be painted flat white anyway.

Thanks Mike! I hope you won't be disappointed. I got the 273 CI V8 assembled and painted with Chrysler Engine Red. Since the engine will be covered, nothing extraordinary here. Bodywork is almost completed. A coat of primer should tell me more. More to come...

With the Hemi 'Cuda back on the bench, it was time to start working on it again. This morning I finished the interior. I finally found a fan belt setup with a power steering pump for the Hemi. No more power by armstrong! More to come...

Thanks Brian!

I am going to use the stock Hemi 'Cuda chassis.

Ian, sometimes we need to step outside of our comfort zone. Just take the time to do some research on your subject and ask questions. You don't necessarily have to be an expert on the subject just to build a nice looking model. BTW, this one is back on the bench. Progress real soon!

Thanks everyone! Chris, I used a set of Pegasus 225/45/18's in place of the kit tires.

Jonathon, I use Ambroid ProWeld only when I am joining unpainted, perfect fitting parts together. If you use it on painted parts, goodbye paint! Usually you can join the parts together and then apply ProWeld and it will flow into the joint with capillary action. Drying time varies with how much you use so use it sparingly. Christopher, those few malcontents are the ones who irritate me the most. I usually don't mind constructive criticism and general inquires, only if they are just that. But, when the comment comes across as "telling" or "demanding", then I usually ignore the reply. I don't really know that many people on this forum, although I do recognize a few names and/or handles here. I will tell you this...if I want something done in a certain way and I can accomplish it within my skillset, it'll be done that way. I do like to think of myself as an open-minded person though.

Niko, Ambroid is not rare for me as my local hobby shop has plenty in stock. I do not know if it is shipped outside of the US. Try contacting some on-line retailers to see if they ship this product out of the US.

Christopher, I'm sorry if I seem to be a bit defensive, it comes from having to constantly tell people my reasons for doing things in a certain way. Elsewhere, on another project, I had a person tell me in no uncertain terms that I should call the Dodge paint I was using by the Plymouth name (same paint code). I started to lose control of my thread and basically had to tell everyone that they needed to start their own threads to discuss paint codes and Elastromeric bumpers and such. I didn't name names as they knew who they were and they stopped bothering me with their nonsense. While I do appreciate suggestions, some suggestions come across as demands and it urks me greatly. I do appreciate your suggestion on the tires and I have taken it as such. I am more use to explaining a process that I used more than explaining why I didn't do something someone's elses way. Again, I'm sorry. You are correct when you talk about the "vibe" and the "vibe" I want is more towards Overhaulin than tuner. I personally don't like the tuner look and to me a tuner is more of a foreign car or small truck with the wheels and tires tucked up under the fenders and cheap body add-on that are falling off than something American made and big like the A100. Your suggestion of a tire with more meat on it is how I had interpreted it and I simply do not have any tires in my parts box that would fit these rims. I envisioned the A100 lowered a bit but not tuner-like. Don't let the pic of the mockup fool you into thinking that I am going for the tuner look as the body with floor pan was sitting on top of the tires without any suspension componants added. I want this truck to look more like it is driven daily in comfort and not banging down the road with an ultra-stiff suspension like I see the tuner cars doing. So far, I have removed about 98% of the flash and mold lines. My plan for this build is no bumpers, so I set about filling the holes for the front and rear bumpers. I opened the holes just enough to insert a short length of styrene rod and some ProWeld. I have yet to remove the bracing from the bed and cab since I don't want to take any chances of compromising the body while I handle it. I then glued in the rear panel which added to the strength of the rear of the body. I will sand the rod ends smooth and then coat the holes and rear panel seams with putty. More to come...

Thanks guys! I don't have any tires in my stash that are "meatier" than the ones on the rims now. And, my idea for this pickup does not include big and little wheels and tires. My paint issues were of the poor coverage as the paint looked more like streaks after making a pass while spraying. I know that many of you like the Testors One Coat, but I am still not crazy about it. We shall see what happens when I get around to spraying it. I will change my way of applying it with lighter coats.

Bart, to there are those who don't care if you have manners or not, I consider it to be polite to others. I have decided on a color for my A100...Testors One Coat Fiery Orange. I know that I have had issues with this paint in the past on my '32 Ford Sedan Street Rod. Maybe I can do a better job with it this time around. I had started cleaning up the body of mold lines and flash when I decided to do a mock up and to see if the wheels and tires would fit within the wheelwells. That is a definite YES! These wheels are gonna look great! More to come...

Jonathan, your GT500 is looking good! I have finished my GT500 and it is posted in Under Glass. Here's a peak...

Thanks Brandon and Dirk! I have finished my GT500 and it is posted in Under Glass. My thanks to all those who viewed and commented on my WIP.

I have finally finished my Shelby GT500.

This is too funny! Bart, you didn't offend me. I personally think that posting "Any progress yet?" type of replies is kind of rude. But, somehow I didn't get that from your posting. As I have stated in my opening post, this will be a slow build as I have 9 months to complete it for the Classic Plastic Model Club show in September. If you were hoping for something of a quicker build, then you will be disappointed. This build will not stop, it's just going to take a while to do. I hope you are patient...

Sorry...no progress since I am very busy at work for 12-15 hours days. If there was any progress made, I would have posted it. As I have previously stated, this will be a slow build and done the way I want it...custom wheels and all!

Exactly!

Hmmm...Ed, I am now curious as to why it seems so important that I build my A100 stock when I thought I had stated that I was going for an Overhaulin look. I have long since used the kit steelies and hubcaps for another project and I am not interested in the mud splattered, weathered look that many of you folks like to do. I don't like the beaten up, worn out look...it just doesn't do anything for me. My builds are glossy and shiny! My A100 will be a slightly custom vehicle with shiny paint and chrome wheels. I do thank you all for your input and suggestions and I would like to encourage everyone to post their input, but I do have a design in mind and I am quite certain that I can accomplish that look. Thanks for your suggestions so far.

Lately, I have been finding more time to work on the Shelby and it is really starting to come together. The engine compartment is now complete! A shot of the open element airbox. The Shelby is now up on four wheels! More to come...

Lately, I have been finding more time to work on the Shelby and it is really starting to come together. The engine compartment is now complete! A shot of the open element airbox. The Shelby is now up on four wheels! More to come...

Thanks Jacen! I think the Pegasus wheels will look just right for this project. Right now, the body is being cleaned up mold lines and flash. Then I'll start on some bodywork. I need to study the door hinges and how they mount.

This is how I lower the new Revell Mustangs. The picture below shows the front disc brakes with the one on the right modified. By removing the bottom of the mount, I can move the brake disc up on the front spindle or on the rear axle. Moving the disc up will lower the car to a more realistic level. I usually use the mounting pin that comes with the kit, but I wanted to try something a little different that I had read about. I used a piece of round stock and glued a short piece into the pin retainer and wheel. I will use a set of business cards under the chassis and set the ride height I want and then I will glue the brake disc to the wheel and then the brake disc to the suspension in the position I want. While the glue sets up on the wheels, I went ahead and started detailing the brakes. More to come...