mrmike

Exactly!

Hmmm...Ed, I am now curious as to why it seems so important that I build my A100 stock when I thought I had stated that I was going for an Overhaulin look. I have long since used the kit steelies and hubcaps for another project and I am not interested in the mud splattered, weathered look that many of you folks like to do. I don't like the beaten up, worn out look...it just doesn't do anything for me. My builds are glossy and shiny! My A100 will be a slightly custom vehicle with shiny paint and chrome wheels. I do thank you all for your input and suggestions and I would like to encourage everyone to post their input, but I do have a design in mind and I am quite certain that I can accomplish that look. Thanks for your suggestions so far.

Lately, I have been finding more time to work on the Shelby and it is really starting to come together. The engine compartment is now complete! A shot of the open element airbox. The Shelby is now up on four wheels! More to come...

Lately, I have been finding more time to work on the Shelby and it is really starting to come together. The engine compartment is now complete! A shot of the open element airbox. The Shelby is now up on four wheels! More to come...

Thanks Jacen! I think the Pegasus wheels will look just right for this project. Right now, the body is being cleaned up mold lines and flash. Then I'll start on some bodywork. I need to study the door hinges and how they mount.

This is how I lower the new Revell Mustangs. The picture below shows the front disc brakes with the one on the right modified. By removing the bottom of the mount, I can move the brake disc up on the front spindle or on the rear axle. Moving the disc up will lower the car to a more realistic level. I usually use the mounting pin that comes with the kit, but I wanted to try something a little different that I had read about. I used a piece of round stock and glued a short piece into the pin retainer and wheel. I will use a set of business cards under the chassis and set the ride height I want and then I will glue the brake disc to the wheel and then the brake disc to the suspension in the position I want. While the glue sets up on the wheels, I went ahead and started detailing the brakes. More to come...

This is how I lower the new Revell Mustangs. The picture below shows the front disc brakes with the one on the right modified. By removing the bottom of the mount, I can move the brake disc up on the front spindle or on the rear axle. Moving the disc up will lower the car to a more realistic level. I usually use the mounting pin that comes with the kit, but I wanted to try something a little different that I had read about. I used a piece of round stock and glued a short piece into the pin retainer and wheel. I will use a set of business cards under the chassis and set the ride height I want and then I will glue the brake disc to the wheel and then the brake disc to the suspension in the position I want. While the glue sets up on the wheels, I went ahead and started detailing the brakes. More to come...

Well...a mixed bag of comments! Well, I am going to see if I can make the wheels fit and I am encouraged by crazyjim's comment. I realize that it may take a bit of work to get them under the fenders, but if it is going to take massive surgery, then I'll use a different wheel and tire combo. But, I will not use steelies and hubcaps as they do not fit within the design of my project and the look I am going for. Anyway, I have nine months to figure all this out, so stay tuned!

Thank you guys! Yes, the ads did show a Chevelle, but the car that was used in the series was the '64 GTO. In the pilot, actor Jason Lee's actual '64 GTO was used and the car received substantial damage during filming and required 5 months to repair. Producers quickly found either a '64 GTO or LeMans/Tempest modified to look like Jason's '64 GTO. I hate it when TV shows lack the contunity necessary especially when it comes to something as predominate as the hero's car, weapon, or even the place they live in. Memphis Beat was light on the action and the sub-plot of a police detective who moonlights as a singer seemed a little far-fetched. Not that it wasn't feasible...just a little far-fetched.

The upcoming Classic Plastic Model Club show in September, 2012 will once again have a Club Challenge. This time it will be pickup trucks...built anyway you want. I threw my hat into the ring with a 1950 Ford F1, but I changed my mind after a few days after seeing a Dodge A100 factory stock build elsewhere. I was influenced to try my hand at an A100. This kit has been in my stash for a while and I have been needing an opportunity to built it. This will be a slow build since this is for the Club Challenge and I want to get this one right, especially after hearing stories about the door hinges. I have a Overhaulin' look in mind. I have a set of Pegasus Chrome T's for this build. Let's see if I can get them to fit. I am undecided on the color right now. I'm thinking of copper, metallic brown, fiery orange...or maybe Hemi Orange! We shall see... More to come...

Jeff, this is just fantastic! Looks far better than mine. Did you do the rear valance panel exhaust?

I have finished my Memphis Beat '64 GTO and it is posted in Under Glass. I would like to thank all those who took the time to view and to comment on my WIP.

My version of Det. Dwight Hendricks '64 GTO from the recently cancelled TNT TV series, Memphis Beat is done!

I have touched up the joint and have assembled the body, interior and the chassis together for the last time, but it is almost like this one is starting to fight me. I am going to do my best at finishing this one so I can move on to something else. This project has been sitting on the bench for too long and I have other projects that I want to start on. I will continue to move forward...

Last night I installed the body over the interior and chassis and then went to bed. This morning I looked in on the Shelby only to find that the drivers side of the front had separated from the fender. It reminded me of the issue my friend Randy had with his Grabber Blue 2010 Mustang GT. I have since repaired the joint, will attempt to touchup the chipped paint (my fault), and continue with assembly. While that was drying, I found some images on Google Images of the open element air filter that is on the 2011 Shelby GT500. I have made one out of some sheet styrene and will be painted semigloss black. When I get the body and chassis reunited, I'll add the new airbox and make any adjustments necessary for a proper fit. More to come...

Last night I installed the body over the interior and chassis and then went to bed. This morning I looked in on the Shelby only to find that the drivers side of the front had separated from the fender. It reminded me of the issue my friend Randy had with his Grabber Blue 2010 Mustang GT. I have since repaired the joint, will attempt to touchup the chipped paint (my fault), and continue with assembly. While that was drying, I found some images on Google Images of the open element air filter that is on the 2011 Shelby GT500. I have made one out of some sheet styrene and will be painted semigloss black. When I get the body and chassis reunited, I'll add the new airbox and make any adjustments necessary for a proper fit. More to come...

Looking good Brandon. If I may offer some constructive critcism, your mountings on the trunk lid are grossly huge and detract from having an opening trunk. When viewed open, the trunk lid with the huge mountings draws the eye to it more than the trunk interior. Also, I see that you are still painting the wheel moldings instead of using BMF. Use a small ruler and measure the molding from one end to the other, measure the BMF and add 1/8th of an inch to the measurement, then use a sharp hobby knife to cut the foil. Carefully align the foil along the edge of the molding at one end and work the foil carefully around from one end to the other. After the foil is pressed into place, buff it with a soft cloth to a bright shine. I know that you are relatively new at using foil and I have spent several years asking how to do wheel opening moldings without getting any real answers. This is the technique I now use and I suggest that you might give it a try. Good luck!

Niko, I have been spraying clear over my BMF for a few years now without any issues. I make sure that the foil is buffed to a brilliant shine and that the entire body is clean and clear of lint or debris. Spray a few light coats to start and then build up to heavier coats of clear.

I have clearcoated Det. Hendricks GTO. More to come...

Looking good Dirk! So far you have pointed out some of the things I'll need to address when I get around to building my kit. I'm still watching!

Jonathan, I did not change the wheel wells. I trimmed the brakes so I could mount the Pegasus Vantage wheels and tires. On the interior package shelf, remove the entire shelf and make a new one from sheet styrene. I also added strips of styrene to the doors to help close the gaps since this was originally to have been a diecast metal body. Send me a PM if you need more information about my build.

Thanks Dirk and Jonathan! Gloss is good!!

Come on Liam. It's just a little clearcoat!

Thanks guys, but it's not complete just yet! I still have to clearcoat the body and assemble the it.

The body has been foiled. I didn't foil the GTO scripts on the rear fenders since I would have ended up making a mess out of them with my hobby knife. I'll use chrome silver paint later. More to come...