Nitrozilla

Here's the wheel close ups. To mask, I just cut 1/4" wide strips of Scotch Blue painter's tape. Laid it in and adjusted with a buffing burnisher for the best edge. Almost no touch up was needed when I took off the tape. Before the subject comes up, I still need to do more on the tires to get them less shiny. I used to sing the praises of Liquitex matte varnish, but there has to be something "flatter" and more durable. The spot at the top of the back tire is where it wore off from body fit tests. Here's the body with the first coat of Tamiya Metallic Red TS - 18. I was just at Hobbytown today and forget to get another can. So far I'm a happy guy. Only minor sanding was needed after the first coat of primer. Enuff chit chat. Please enjoy these pictures as they are for your enjoyment and are for the sole purpose of being enjoyed by you in an enjoyable way. (Went a little heavy on my back meds while thinking of Family guy.)

If I was ever going to build a Ford, the Mustang would be my choice. I bought 2. Ssssshhhhh, it's a secret........

Hi Gordon. The wheels are one piece, so I masked off the outer section. Then I hand painted the centers with Tamiya Gold X-12. After that, each lug nut got hit with Model Master Clear Blue, then a dot of silver for the studs. I was still trying to go box stock at the time, otherwise I would have built some valve stems. I'll take a close up pic for you when I post the body primer shots later today. Gotta make a Hobby Town run.

Niko, chop, chop !!! Looks good there youngin'. Watching closely.

Thanks Bob. Dying to see it in primer. I can see where your question is coming from John. What you're seeing is me working with what I have. To make it look more correct, I would have to modify the rollcage and raise the seat slightly. In a "purpose - built" topless car, the driver sits a little higher and the rollcage is taller too. In that scenario you could see that the driver could just stand up, lean forward and escape. I'm sure the builders of the Beach City Chevrolet and countless other innovators who ran those cars could give you a better answer.

Got the nose and tail installed. Also spread a little green joy. I try to do precision surgery. It keeps the putty to a minimum. A couple of minor tweaks and it will be ready for a bath and some primer. Might go red this time for the body instead of gold. The blue in the decal isn't the right shade to do an attempt at something patriotic, but it would make it red, white and light blue.

It worked

Brad, that's a great start to what I'm certain will be a beautiful axle. Don't worry about the picture quality. It's fine. However, can we talk about the background?

Taking my time to get it right. Next I'll put on the nose and tail, then sling some putty.

What a great combo, remix, mishmash thing idea. I laffed when I read the topic title because I got a great visual before I clicked on the link. Yours is better than my visual because mine didn't have pink fuzzy fur. Excellent Randy. That's how they do it in New Messico, huh?

Glad ya like it boyos. Ira, when in doubt, cut it out ! Right?

.....a couple more.

Well, since box stock is out the window, might as well go nutz on the body. So far all is going well with the roof removal. Next comes the rollcage Doghouse cover thing. I'll do a small cowl at the front too.

So, I'm checkin' out the build and I see the "For Sale" sign and think to myself, "Is he trading up or getting out of the sport?" Then it hits me, "Um, dude, it's one of Darryl's models. It's not real. It's not real......."

Masterful work here Clay. I understand your aversion to doing matte on such beautiful tubs. Have you considered sprinkling on some ground up rubber? That might do the trick. Always love yer stuff. Here's something I reserve for special occasions:

Thanx for the heads up on Paracord. Lots of different sizes and styles. This is what I use, until my ship comes in:

Hey Harry, Hi Thanx for looking. Yes Sir, it was intended to be box stock. Unfortunately, no matter how hard I tried, I ended up doing some non box stock changes. For instance, the steering column uses a piece of aluminum tubing that would keep it out of that contest category. At any rate, I used the kit provided tubing, for the most part.

Mike, I did have some difficulty getting the decals to lay down, but I think it was due to the thickness of the transfer. Not only did they not hug the fender well, they refuse to stick to any curve that required a little give. At any rate, sanding is problematic in that, even with a very course stick, block or paper, (tried all three), it clogs too fast and more labor than needed. I mentioned I have 2 kits. The second one was going to be a topless, but months down the road. It may be time kick that mule. Or maybe I'll just try a different paint. Either way, I'm putting this body away and grabbing the second one to start prep and assembly. I'll think about the topless thing as I do that. Stay tuned, it just got scary.

Wocka Wocka !!!! Yoinks, Zowie !! Excellent in so many ways.

Thanks for the advice and support everybody. The body now has 6 coats of clear (4 lacquer, 2 Krylon), with the same result. I've got some running around to do today, but hope to start sanding on it when I get home. I've switched from acrylic lacquer to Krylon Gloss Clear. Not sure if it's acrylic or enamel, but it hasn't reacted badly with the lacquer. More to come......

Thanx Mike. I like it too. Now, I am in the process of trying to save it. During clear coat, the decal areas developed a "cratering" effect. Orange peel on steroids, if you like. I've been hoping it's an outgassing reaction from lacquer being used on what are probably enamel decals. The question is, do I keep shooting it in hopes that these pits will eventually fill up? Do I switch to an enamel or acrylic clear to stop the reaction? I really don't want to strip it, but if I can't fix it, I'll have to. I'm not worried about the decals because I bought 2 kits when they hit the shelves. Any advice would be good.

Basic paint is done and decaling has begun. I guess we can't finish this build on a positive note. These decals require a lot of love. Each individual piece so far has had a "Sticky Spot". That's a place where the whole decal has lifted from the carrier except for one spot and if you are overly aggressive at insisting upon it's release you run the risk of tearing it. They will also need lots of Xacto slices and decal solvent / set. The underside of the body was shot first in flat black. I masked off the windows and underbody, then shot the gold. It will get it's shine when I clear coat it. For decaling, I'm leaving off any that go on the front and rear bumpers. They will be painted after a couple of coats of clear and plenty of time to dry before masking. Also you'll notice the cut out? That's for the magneto, as it was causing my front end height problem. I should have cut the new shaft a little shorter.

One of these days I'll get to a Mr. Norm car, one of these days.......... In the meantime, thanx for posting yours.

Love it, love it, Love it. Nice job on the headers and injection system too.

That's a beautiful looking car Brett. Saw him go 200 + at Irwindale when it was a big deal.