Longbox55

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97891 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=82097

1/2 ton would be 5 lug, regardless of 4x4 or 2wd. 3/4 ton and 1 ton were 8 lug. There are a couple of resin casters that are making appropriate 8 lug steel wheels. The 6 lug 1/2 ton 4x4 wheels would be Chevrolet/GMC, Jeep J10 trucks/Cherokee/Wagoneer depending on year, plus Toyota, Isuzu, Mazda, and Nissan mini trucks

Sweet.

Having had to work on them, I agree with your opinion.

This was at a local show a couple of years ago.

Mine has a blade in it, similar to the tip of a #11 exacto blade, rather than a wheel or a wire. I've bade clean cuts through sheet up to .030" with ease.

Import in a Ford

You would actually need the MPC/AMT '32 Chevy to convert the engine from. The "207" engine mentioned in the article would be the first generation Chevrolet 6, 1928-1936, and is completely different from the 1937-1953 engine.

Not joking at all. But after looking, I guess the prices are better than what they sell HoK for at TPC Global for 4 oz. ($11.62-21.01 depending on color). I guess I'm looking at the color range, most of the I can find locally in Duplicolor for under $7 for a 12 oz. can.

The Testors goes on the same way as the Tamiya is described in Allens post. A silver base will cool the color, gold will give a warmer final shade. If you can, you might consider decanting and airbrushing it, as it does have a tendency to lay down a bit blotchy out of the can. Red and green seems to be the big offenders in the Testors clear enamels, they blue and grape seem to lay down with a more consistent color.

Interesting, but awful pricey.

If you want to build a different stock variation, here's the list of body styles with dimenensions from the GM Heritage Center https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1941-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf

Just checked their site, confirmed, Plasti Kote is a division of Valspar.

https://youtu.be/e-4A5pFbuLU An old promotional video from 1957. Towards the end of the video, there's a few good shots of the chassis/drivetrain.

What type of pump does it have? Oil type or oilless? With a the old oil type compressor (superior to oilless in my opinion) you may want to consider a coalescing filter system in addition to a moisture trap. Use the moisture trap to catch the bulk of the water in the line, then plumb it to the coalescing filter to finish the job. Those filters are a 2 step system, using a coalescing filter to trap any oil that might be in the line, plus a desiccant filter to trap any remaining moisture. I have one on both of my compressors, I get no moisture at all at the business end of the line.

No problem, Jacob.

Then what about the Cobra (Ford engine in a British AC Ace) ? Back to the '32. I'm not so much offended by the rocker covers (I would run something more period correct, though), but what's the deal with the Barbie doll head on the transmission dipstick? To me, that's just way out of place. Also, to me, the gypsy on the door looks like it would be more at home on the side of a '70s style van.

Jacob, are you talking about the front sway bar? On the 7'3-'87 Chevrolet and GMC 4x4s, the sway bar does mount to the frame. I can't seem to come up with a good factory pic of one with the rear sway bar, but the setup in the Monogram kit is virtually identical to what was used under the '55-'59 trucks.

Another thing about those waterborne paints/clears, they are NOT like the water based acrylics you see on the hobby shelves. While they are waterborne, that is more about less VOCs than necessarily being less toxic to the painter. From what I understand, they're actually more toxic, and do require specialized PPE to use. Note the getup that the painter is using in Aces video.

More reasons to clear. 3. Some paints (Testors Model Master and One Shot lacquers, and Tamiya Lacquers, plus many 1:1 car paints) are basecoat/clearcoat. The paint itself dries to a flat or satin finish, and does require a clearcoat for the final gloss. 4. This actually goes along with Reason 1, with metallics and pearls, you do not want to sand/polish the color coat, as it can muddy the metallic/pearl effect. You want to polish the clear in hose cases.

The rocker trim on the Chevelle was part of the Super Sport package, so they would be "standard" on that particular car. However, as others have mentioned, leaving them off would not really be wrong. It would really depend on what era pro street car you're after. An '80s style would be completely dechromed, just as Brian states. If you really want to '80s, paint it a melon color, that was a big thing at the time. A '90s style pro street tended to have more of the stock trim in place, and more traditional colors (red was very popular).

I generally do not seal metalizer, the clear will take away from the final finish, especially on the buffing type. For the most part, parts I use metalizer on will not be touched by anything once installed, so extra protection isn't really necessary.

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevelle/1967-Chevrolet-Chevelle.pdf Scroll down to page 36, that's where the list of standard equipment is. BTW, the Heater and Defroster Delete option is RPO C48.

It's supposed to be a Powerglide, sort of. The 3 speed from the '60 Chevy truck would be fine, as would the 3 speeds from pretty much any Chevrolet kit post '55. The V8 bellhousing would be more accurate to that engine than the one from the '60 truck, as that engine did use the V8 bolt pattern bellhousing.

There is supposed to be a "pan" on the bottom of the transmission. The engine itself would be correct for just about any Chevrolet from '63-'76 on cars, and up to the mid '80s on trucks.