comp1839

the nhra rule book is not always the easiest to interpret dale. the "motor plate they are referring to is not the motor mounting plate that is being referenced in the pic that ted posted. it is referring to what is commonly called the "block saver plate" which is mandatory with ALL of these bellhousings. the mid plate (motor mounting plate) which you see in the picture can be used in lieu of the block saver plate but, a mid plate is not mandatory with a clutch can. see the difference? and yes the mid plate can serve as PART of the fire wall. although again, it does not have to be part of the firewall.

thanks guys. it is a lot of effort to keep this thing straight and square.......actually, more like a pain in the butt. LOL!

guys you're very welcome. i'm glad to help. ted, it is normal for the mid plate to bolt to the chassis in all cars using a mid plate. it's actually mandatory i believe. dale, i really admire your enthusiasm. you should take your time and read this stuff. the part you're stating is for clutch cars. 6.1, 6.2, 6.3 and 9.1 are all sfi certs, for bell housings. not transmissions. the reference to the four 1/2" grade 5 bolts are actually four extra bolts required to bolt the bellhousing to the mid plate. these bolts do not have anything to do with mounting the mid plate to the frame. i believe four 3/8" bolts are required to bolt the plate to the frame. requirements for t/f dragsters and funny cars differ greatly from pro mod, pro stock, comp, and sportsman classes. you'll note there is an automatic in the car. that requires an sfi 29.1 flex plate and a 30.1 flex plate sheild. the trans requires a 4.1 transmission shield. in pro mod converter drives are required to have a 6.1 or 6.3 clutch can and a 29.1 flexplate. most of this is probably useless info to most of you. unless you are detailed oriented enough to put the appropriate sfi stickers on the components. here is a clutch can. note the four "ears" and the extra bolt holes they provide. here is a converter drive(a bruno unit) with a clutch can. pro mod required. here is the same drive before with a 30.1 sheild ( the front bell is actually the cert'd sheild.) sportsman required. if you have any questions please ask. my only goal is make sure you get accurate information, not to step on toes or hurt feelings.

so, i made a really low dollar chassis jig. went to home depot and got a piece of mdf. cut it down and made my chassis lines. made some suspension mounting fixtures with some aluminum angle. done. now i can start making all of the tubing fit.

i agree 100% leonard!!!! maybe even stretch that out to 1/8 scale. heck i'd take anything new american made in 1/8.

thanks guys. got some more updates. machined up a master cyl. and some mounts for the chassis. also made the brake pedal.

for you guys building pro mod's or any fast door car. there are 2 really good builds going on at yellow bullet. one is a big tire outlaw car by precision chassis: http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=599288 and the other is a pro mod by tim mcamis race cars: http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=600464 both are literally packed with excellent step by step pictures. VERY close up and well detailed. the info here is PRICELESS!

mike, what a difference. now, if your up to one more piece of advice. if you're going to make this car sit low. you're going to want to make that drive shaft hoop muucch taller. for the rear of the car to sit low the pinion will be sitting higher in the chassis. which will put your driveshaft right where the top of your driveshaft hoop is. make the hoop go all the way to the main bar above your present hoop bar. great job!!!

no problem dave. i appreciate a well built model. keep it up!

SWEEEEEEET!

incredible job on this tyrone!!!!! awesome job on the pic dave!

WOW!!! great looking stuff dave. details are coming out SWEET!

the 3/32" is correct for some of the tubes mike. just not all. you may want to use some .100" with your 1/16".

mike, you are welcome. mid engine addict, you may want to re-think that but, thanks. hehe. derrick, how've you been dude? if i ever finish this thing. maybe, i can get to a show to see you again sometime.

quote: "Dave is the cage right, not sure. Thanks for everything." hey, mike. glad to see the changes to the cage. the side bars were definitely not right. what you had before wasn't so "spot on" was it? also, what tubing diameter are you using? it looks a little thick. i was going to suggest you check out garret's site they had a few pics there but, just google " jason scrugg's new car" go to the pro modified u.s. site there are a ton of killer shots of this car. i think i have a few from 2012 adrl race too. if they'll help. when you get the pics from garret let me know. i have the sfi drawings for 25.1e and 25.2 chassis. i can help you out with tubing placement and diameter if it's not clear in the pics. you're definitely starting out on the right foot. don't let little setbacks get to you. there will be many........trust me. hehe. scratch built pro mod models are perhaps THE most difficult drag cars there are to build correctly. the chassis are complicated, the suspensions are complicated. the engines and drive train are complicated. PM me if you need anything. here's a link to pro modifieds u.s. :http://www.promodifieds.us/forums/showthread.php?t=20067

looks great mike! you've picked an incredible subject. scrugg's vette is just awesome.

here you go mike.

aaron, thanks so much. mike, i recently suffered a computer crash. i don't know if i lost some of these build photos or they're just hiding. i thought i had them backed up on an external drive but, some of the folders seem to be empty. i can give you some of my reference photos if it helps.

thanks mike. glad you like it so far. got the foot bars in.

scott rick and chris, thank you for the great comments. always appreciated. the rules require a steel floor under the driver so i cut some .010" brass sheet to the appropriate sizes and soldered in a solid floor. here are the floor peices. 1st piece installed. clean all the surfaces and use a good flux. the solder will travel to the heat and you'll get a decently clean joint. here's the bottom of the completed floor. here's the top veiw.

why does it look like the front motor isn't running?

sounds like a great build jeff. keep us informed.

steve, there's nothing to step into.....or around....... or over. i know there are salt cars with coolant. some one was convinced that ALL of these cars MUST have coolant. that just isn't correct. great info. if you look closely at the yellow roadster chassis. it has a a KB block in it.

i thought the engine that danny thompson is using looked like a little eye candy to me. so here's a pic of it. you were asking about a donovan block earlier. i didn't find a donovan block motor for you but, i did find this unique half hemi. it is literally an early hemi with a bmt cyl. head on it. again, i found no provision for water in this unique little motor.

thank you dan. appreciate it! got a little more done to the chassis. next we'll get the stuff over here done.