comp1839

great stuff there big guy!

can't wait to see your build start justin. good luck and have fun!!!

thanks guys. arno, i usually have 2000 or so hrs. in these builds but, i believe this one will exceed that. luc, glad to be an inspiration to some one. more chassis work.

thanks mike. a couple more with the chassis "x" bracing and off the the jig temporarily. ride height right now is a scale 3".

some more chassis / body fit.

so, i got around to making some rear shock mounts and some more chassis assembly. rear shock mounts. chassis stuff.

sounds to me like the crowd has spoken bill. i'll leave you with some pics i took of scotty cannons stude, at e-town, awhile ago. not a shortened wheelbase car but,...........well, it's just pretty much bad to the bone.

i'm sure a lot of you don't get to see pro mod stuff much so, here's the actual setup i'm attempting to re-create. rear housing and rear shocks. 4link system. this is a bickel design. just about every major chassis shop out there has there own version by now. this is standard issue on every top pro mod and pro stock team out there.

i hope i don't regret doing this. bill, it is always a good idea to read up on the class rules if you're going to try to build that way. it will cut down on mis-information if you know what's correct and what's not. if "i" were doing a build like this the next thing i'd do is decide on a level of accuracy and detail. that will also help you better decide on the level of cash you're willing part with. aftermarket stuff for these builds is really cool and plentiful but, can add up quickly. as far as the body you have. while it would fit in a multitude of classes the first thing you have to ask yourself is.....am i building something that is going to represent a competitive car or am i just building it to look cool and don't care how it would perform as a 1:1. the altered (shortened in this case) will definitely make the car less stable at high speeds. the extended overhang in the rear while a necessary thing in the past. track prep and tire technology have eliminated the need for what now would be considered an unnecessary and possibly unsafe practice. perhaps another way to help make your decision would be to look how fast each eliminator, of the categories suggested, actually go. it may help you tailor you combo to what you are looking for.

thanks guys certainly glad you like it. scott you'll especially like what's coming.........i hope.

so glad to see this back in action! incredible......as always.

shot of the rear 4 link form the top. a wishbone will be the next thing on the agenda.

made some mods to the rear end fixtures so i could see the scale to measure the link lengths. milled some windows in the sides. then we got on with making the lower links. next, back to shop to make the upper link tube ends. then fabbed the upper links. all the time the line up bar is in place making sure the rear geometry is held in place.

thanks guys!!! much appreciated. clint, sorry, i didn't get a shot of the body next to a dollar for you but, how about i just give you the length? the total length on the body is about 25.5". hope that works for ya. greg you need to get back to the bench asap. i can hear it calling you all the way over here.hehe. o.k. so, i was out n the shop making stuff so i made up a fixture to hold the shocks at exactly the right length. it's piece of aluminum with four .062" pins on 2.200" centers and the center hogged out so the shocks will stay at that length while the j.b. weld dries. the rod ends are r.b.motion units, of course. also made the tube ends for the lower four link bars. the lower bars will be 3/16" aluminum tube while the uppers will be 5/32". yes that requires the ends to be different between the 2 sets of bars. also working on some tire detail. the wear indicators will be drilled in to the rubber replicating the real deal.

and here's another build that should be VERY informative. http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=441589

seriously bill......you built a pro mod?

rrruh, rrroh!

ted, there are 8 bolts there, like i said, i believe only 4 are mandatory. it looks as though the mid plate will become part of the firewall, yes. here's a pic of my own car. you can see the mid plate is part of the firewall. the mid plate here is attached by 4 bolts. the solenoid is a line lock. dale, that's an interesting observation. you would need to talk to that chassis builder to find out his reasons for build his chassis that way. i will repeat this again. no 2 chassis builders build a car exactly alike. they have their own reason's, thoughts, and secret stuff they do to their chassis to make it (hopefully ) outperform the other brands. there are basic rules they must abide by in construction for saftey(those would be, what are found, in the sfi manuals and the sanctioning body rulebook) after that it's up to the builder on how he builds the car. some work better than others with certain drivetrain combinations. it's definitely a world of black arts and hidden secrets.

thanks guys!!! i'll be doing some work on the four link bars tonight. have to get to a spot where i can hold up a bit. just picked the block (for the '37) so it's time to start. re-assembling the real thing.

hey greg, good to hear from you. how are things in the great down under? here is a part i consider an important detail. most of you don't or won't care and that's fine but, i like to set up the 4 link and rear as close to true as possible. i use an alignment bar (tube in this case) to get the pinion center line in line with the motor and trans. at this point i can make the 4link bars since there centers are now set. special note to mike here. you'll see why i said you should move your driveshaft loop higher in the chassis from this shot.

i can't tell you if this is accurate for your build. there are just too many builder variations that can happen. this is from a pro mod not a pro stock. again this is just one of many possible setups. you asked if there plumbed the same way as a street car. well, i can say maybe similar. depends on what you mean exactly when you say that. do you mean the routing of the lines probably not. if you mean the design of the hydraulic system then, yes.

where's the master cyl. located in your build, john? and do you want just the mastercyl. and mounting? lines.....hoses......calipers and rotors?

now THAT has a serious case of ATTITUDE!!!!!

oh my goodness!!!!!

to take the discussion a little further about the motor plate being part of the firewall or not. since you guys have seen the two builds going on in the previous threads you'll note both cars have the mid plate tied directly into the firewall. here are 2 cars i took pics of that are not like that. one is my buddy mark's d/a beretta. the other is cunningham's pro stock mustang. the beretta. note the clutch can is well in front of the firewall. inside. the pro stock mustang. inside. hopefully the difference between the 2 styles is glaringly different. if not, just ask.