comp1839

dave, looking really good. the fuel pumps look spot on. as far as the black box in your picture goes. it looks ike the fuel control system is there what's missing is the clutch system. i went back a little ways , if no one has answered your question on the "box" on the egt sensors. no, it doesn't attach to anything. it just hangs there. keep up the EXCELLENT work.

incredible work tyrone!!!!!!!!!! you're paint work on this is off the charts!!!!

chris, this is just exceptional work, my friend. your attention to accurate detail, is off the charts. keep up the incredible job you're doing!!!!!!!!

the hat was machined from renshape, then painted matte black, then scalemotorsports c/f decals were applied, then cleared. still needs wet sanding and buffing.

so i'm back on the motor for the salt flat car. machined some butterflies for the injector hat. they are a scale 5" in diameter. put some c/f decals on the injector hat. did a little more work to the mags and fuel pump.

first, are you sure you want to tackle tig welding aluminum on that frame, on your first attempt at this? don't get me wrong.....i believe in the can do spirit and all of that sort of thing but, "tig"ing aluminum is NOTHING like welding steel. especially thin sheet aluminum. even if you are successful at welding it. you will need to work it back to being straight again. are you sure you really want to tig this frame? even a cheap tig that can do A/C welding is not going to be "cheap". the really cheap tigs out there only do d/c. that's why they are cheap. i also don't recommend it be a scratch type tig. you'll need a foot pedal control, not a preset or finger tip control. the mini torch head you want will be an added cost too. then there's the tungsten electrodes, filler rod, gas and personal protective gear. i don't know what you're willing to spend on this so, i thought i'd let you know this ain't gonna be cheap or fast. the learning curve for welding aluminum is pretty slow. i've known guys who have welded all their lives who haven't mastered the skill of "tig"ing aluminum. if you're sure about the cost thing and the dedication. i'll be happy to walk you through it. please, don't think i'm giving you a hassle or hard time on this. if you truly want to do this, i don't mind helping. i just don't want you to get all gung-ho and rush into this un-informed only to find out how much it REALLY takes to tig weld aluminum. on the other hand. the satifaction level is OFF THE CHARTS!!!

the tig welded seat would be one of my cars, I believe. if you have any questions, ask away.

well, i lucked out and had a little extra time so,....off to the mill. i machined the fuel pump extension, drive system, fuel pump and 2 pro mags. fuel pump drive extension. drive system, pump and mags. some mock up shots.

aluminum.........did some one say aluminum? oh yeah, i'll be watching this. me likee, long time.

all of the body supports look fantastic, chris. incredible craftsmanship!!!

thanks a bunch guys! really appreciate it! back to working on the engine again. fuel pump drive, fuel pump, dual pro mags and some injector stuff. i'll post pics soon as i can.

i had some time today to make the rear brake rotors and detail the rear a little more. also made a new pinion support.

i don't know where the body's from, ted. it was a gift from another modeller who wanted to help out. i didn't get a complete kit so i have no idea. the doors were molded with a very thin amount of plastic holding them in place to the body. same with the trunk lid. you can very easily open the doors up to make them work. this car will not have operating doors. if you look at the chassis, opening doors would be useless anyway.

looks great chris! will you be adding any more of the support structure under the body?

thanks henry! thanks leonard! here's a quick shot of the car with the approx. 122" wheel base.

thanks, chris! certainly glad that you enjoy my builds.

also got some work done to the body. moved the rear fenders up to the line thingy. also narrowed it a little. the car at ride height will be 36" at the top of the trunk. the top of the roll cage will be 44"-46" at ride height. rear veiw.

with the arrival of the spring weather the '37 is now out of the deep freeze and requires heavy amounts of feeding. so, the salt flat car will have to be streamlined a little. i was going to make an all aluminum quick change. that will now be a modified kit rear. i like the look of gussetted side bells. that's where i'll start. added a proper length of 1/2 styrene to the center and filled it with JB weld. this was done i could properly machine it and not have it turn into a projectile. machined the slots. added the fins. primed it up.

thanks mark. when this car is finished. i'd really love to get back to the '69 camaro pro mod. i'm waiting for some custom photo etch to get finished. then i can start the chassis building on that car. this really was supposed to be a kind of "fill in" build. of course it got way outa control. LOL.

thanks for the comments guys! joe, i have a large metal cabinet with sliding glass doors (it's not as nice as it may sound) in my basement. i keep them in that. two of my cars and one engine were built specifically for very good friends of mine.

joe, this sounds like it's going to be awesome!!!! can't wait to see it progress.

tyrone, glad to hear your surgury went well! that's ALWAYS a scary thing. as usual your car looks incredible. i measured a kit slick vs. a pegasus slick. in 1:25 scale the kit slick would be a very close 34.375 x 17.25. the pegasus slick in 1:25 is 37.5 x 18.75. as you know there are 2 pro mod tires available form both goodyear and hoosier. one is a 34.5 x17 x 16 the other is a 36 x 17 x 16. perhaps the wheel opening is a little too large?

great workmanship dave! as far as drilling a hole throught the decal....i wolud take a piece of tubing the same diameter as the hole you are drilling 9or at least as close as you can get). i would press it hard against the decal where you want to drill the hole. this will cut the decal and the paint eliminating decal tearing, paint cracking / chipping etc. . drill through the center of the mark you just made and you should be o.k. does this make sense? i've used the same technique for drilling through painted fiberglass car parts. hope it helps.

i'm glad you guys like it so far. thanks for the great comments!

here are the rear wheels and hubs together. here's the start of the brass chassis. a mock up shot.