comp1839

great stuff, scott!!!!! i just wish i could see that small. hehe.

tom, if you want to build a custom chassis for this. you can check out chris alston's chassis works site. they have pics of all of there chassis available. there are no dimensions on them but with a little math you can blow them up to the appropriate size. if you need any help just yell. by the way, looks like your off to a very good start.

i hadn't checked the super gas class, tom. thanks for the info. each of the sfi manuals is a separate charge.

yes, the chassis spec. is called out in the nhra rulebook (SFI spec. 25- whatever). you would need to aquire the SFI manual for that spec. the specs i listed are stricktly door car specs. dragsters (front or rear engined), funny cars altereds, street roadsters. all have there own specs. depending on how fast you want to go. again, this only applies to the builder who wants to make sure his stuff is correct. not everyone builds that way.

just curious to see what does and doesn't matter to people when they build. there are specific rules that govern rollcage / chassis construction. they are not available in your local drag racing spec. you can go to the rule book to see what spec your chassis needs to be but, after that you need an SFI manual to determine tubing placement and diameters. for instance: pro stock requires SFI spec 25.1e pro mod requires SFI spec 25.1e or 25.2 top sportsman (if quicker than 7.49 sec.) requires SFI spec 25.1e or 25.2 or 25.3 (if 7.50 or slower) requires SFI spec 25.1e or 25.2 or 25.3 or 25.4 or 25.5 i have read the 25.2 manual and i'll give you a for instance. there are 4 different rollcage configurations that are approved for 25.2. they range from the driver helmet being in front of the main hoop to the drivers head being behind the main hoop. the location of the drivers head (so to speak) denotes the locations of the rest of the tubing. same with the floor tubing options, dash /lower windsheild bar and gussets, and the cross tubing in the halo bar. how the flooring sheetmetal is attached is also spec'd. so, questions like Tom's about a pro mod / pro sportsman ( i'm guessing he really means top sportsman) chassis flooring aren't always cut and dried answers. the two could be the same or they could be different. any way. for those of you to whom it matters. there are rules that govern what, where, and how tubing should be placed. i'll post some pics of the rollcage differences when i can.

you're really putting this one, out of the park, leonard!!!!!!!!! the body is incredible, the chassis and shocks/struts are great. this is one that needs to get built for sure. it will be a one of a kind!!!!!!!!

seriously, joe. outstanding!!! the injectors and regulators are just super.

i have a question for you guys. how much does it really matter to you (the builder, not the spectator) that you have an accurate / correct chassis? what i mean is, does it matter if you have the bars placed correctly or is it o.k. as long as you stuff a lot of bars in there and it looks close? i realize that plastic and brass tubing don't match up one to one and sometimes concessions must be made but, do you even try to get close with the correct diameters?

your workmanship speaks for itself, joe. stunning doesn't begin to explain it.

joe, fantastic work!!!!!

joe, simply exceptional work. i agree with tyrone. as clean as you've made the manifold, 8 works for me too! oh, and congrats on the new family member!!!!!

just a stunning piece of craftsmanship, tyrone! this build sets the bar waaaaayyyyy up there. the level of detail and the accuracy is phenomenal.

looking great, tyrone. i think i might have some shots of his fulton motor if you need them..

simply awesome, dude!!!

ted, let me ask you a question. that's a mark williams 11 in rear, right? did you know that mark williams makes a 9 inch rear? are they both rears? why, yes. are they both mark williams rears? most certainly. do they look the same? absolutely not. do they perform the same? absolutely not. but, that's something you happen to know about. so of course they're not the same. the same goes for these heads. while you think the only difference is the valve angle. it is only the thing that is used to i.d. the head. just like an 11inch is not a 9 inch rear. so, are both of these things cyl. head? yes. are they both chevy cyl. heads? yes. again that's where the similarities end. the physical size of the heads are different ( the 18 being much taller). the port locations are different (the 18 intake port location is changed and the 18 exhaust port location is changed). even the intake mounting surface angle is changed (from 10 degrees to 5 degrees on the 18). you say that you just want enough detail to make it look realistic to you. well those heads are as different, to me, as the two rears i just mentioned. just because you haven't learned the differences in the heads that makes it o.k.? how about all of you take a few minutes and do a google search on the heads and learn the differences. all i asked was to have the wording on the part changed to reflect the actual part that is there.

ted, i appreciate your effort but, there is no need to continue trying to straighten anything out. tony, has made it quite clear that accuracy or correctness doesn't matter to him or TDR and i quote: ".anyone that assumes that TDR product is correct or exact to the original is seriously mistaken and will be very disappointed" for me, this just makes TDR more high priced parts. i'm sorry i tried to help straighten out an in-accuracy in their parts. obviously they are happy with it.

that's very disappointing to hear, ted. for a number of reasons. a company that i believed to be committed to correct detail doesn't know the difference between a raised port small block chevy head and insists on calling it standard. the parts will never fit a standard head.......ever. also the symmetrical port big block chevy head is not the same physical dimensions as standard bbc head. they are taller. so, the symetrical port manifold should NOT fit a standard head. the fact that it does leans to the fact something is incorrect. i believe for the rather pricey parts that TDR produces. they should be correct to their 1:1 counterparts. to hear that they are drawing / producing generic "sorta close" parts really saddens me.

scratch building is just so much fun. you can really let yourself have fun when you're off in scratchbuilding land. here's a rear i did for the FED. here's the hand formed aluminum body, mid-plate, soldered brass chassis. my first all aluminum really BIG chevy motor and 5 spd. planetary trans. and of course i love creating my own wheels and tires. these are parts for almost all different projects.

i usually start with setting the wheelbase, then the track width, then the spindle height. doind the same for front and rear. i use MDF as a chassis jig a screw my little mounting plates to it on the appropriate centerlines. how elaborate or un-elaborate you want to be is your choice. i use alot of lig and mounting plates because i have fat finger syndrome. the mountings keep me from screwing up what i'm building.

absolutely stunning work by all of those who've posted!!!!! amaing stuff guys!! the talent runs deep here!!!!

here's a hemi i scratch built from aluminum.

engine for the dragster. 1/8 AA/FA. completely scratchbuilt except for highly modified body and some hardware.

here are a few scratchbuilt pieces i've made. most of my stuff is 1/8 scale any more. 1/8 scale nostalgia top fuel car. completely scratchbuilt except for some of the hardware. 1/8 scale top alcohol dragster. totally scratchbuilt except for the engine block (highly modified), rear center section and hardware.

indeed, tony. i was simply stating that so your customers would know that if they bought the manifold, they should buy the heads. so they don't have a problem like brodie did. there is no mention of these mis-match possibilities on the website.

not a problem, ted. the people that would be most interested and benefit from this are the guys who work in the bigger scales. some of the details in the cyl. heads i've mentioned become really evident in the bigger scales. so for me, at least, it's important to know what's/ what and who fits what.\ for instance i see TDR just made a new big block tunnel ram. beautiful piece. only thing is, it's only appropriate for chevy symmetrical port pro stock heads or maybe olds symmetrical port pro stock heads. it's not correct for the siamesed stock big block head. so,.......devil is all in the details. if you build for fun and none of this matters, that's fine. but,......if the details count then you need to know this stuff.