comp1839

let's start with the small block chevy, since that's what the topic is about. i won't go into this to much because they literally write books about small block chevy heads. yes, you would need to tell them if the heads are 18 or 23 degree. the number refers to the valve angle that is in the head not the angle on the intake face of the head. 23 degrees are what stock heads have. just because they're 23 degree though doesn't mean they all the same. you can have a raise port 23 degree. those would have a different manifold than a standard port 23 degree. most of what we are talking about is aftermarket stuff and doesn't come on any production engine. there are 10*, 15*, 18*, 23*, buick, pontiac, sb2, canted / splayed valve heads to name a few. there are tons more. all of these heads bolt onto a sbc block. almost none of the intakes will interchange. then there the big block chevy.............. we could go on for days about this. if you want to know more. perhaps you should start a new thread on the subject. i'd be happy to give you input

not to beat a dead horse but, trying to drill printed material is a no-no. you should always use a rat tail file or a carbide burr to open up this stuff. especially with minimal wall thickness. a drill bit by nature will try to expand the material you are drilling. it will find the weakest print line and crack it. i don't think the metal material that is printed will be any better as it is still only held together by a binding agent. sorry, joe. i wanted to tell you how good the '57 looks and i got side tracked. great work!!!!!!!

good to hear. let me know their response.

joe, i'm tearing my "mule" motor apart from the dragster. it's a 499 cu.in. drce block w/ pontiac pro stock heads. i'm going to take out as much compression as the pistons will allow and remove as much valve spring pressure as is safe. it still won't be very streetable but, at least it will drive. the motor i want to eventually install will a 552 cu. in. drce block w/ olds pro stock heads. it will be built with around 11:1 compression and a more streetable cam somewhere in the .650" to .700" lift range. both motors will have 2 dominators and no nitrous at this point. there is a long term game plan to build a 700+cube motor but, that is a very long way off. hopefully greg will be correct in that it won't be your every day grocery getter.

here's a little piece of information. the manifold will never fit any kit blocks and heads (except by extreme accident). the TDR heads and manifold are not conventional 23 degree parts. they are 18 degree raised port heads and manifold. i'm not sure the guys at TDR know that they have produced an 18 degree chevy small block head but, that's what it is. my advice would be to buy the heads and manifold together as they are a matching set. in 1:1 these parts will not interchange. now, if they'd only produce the splayed valve small block head..............that would be cool!!!!!!

thanks a ton guys!!!!!!!!!!! it won't be too long 'til i get back to the camaro.

incredible workmanship, joe. can't wait to see the rearend hung.

for those who are interested. i mocked up a motor in the car to check out the clearances and the fit. here's a shot of what's to come. hope you enjoy.

yeah greg. i'm working on making a new home for the '37. when i get caught up, i'll get back to the camaro. thanks a bunch, derrick!

tell us skip.......why are you surprised?

if you have enough scratch.........you can have anything built. just kiddin'.

not just yet, wayne. i'm still working on the garage. maybe a couple weeks yet.

looks fantastic, joe. clutch cover came out great! whole package is awesome.

this just a stellar effort on your part tyrone! incredible workmanship! best of luck in atlanta.

shazzaam!!! that's awesome, tony. the detail is very crisp and clean. incredible stuff!!!!!!

frank, i have some questions about the printing material itself, maybe you can help me out. can you tell me how well it accepts paint? mostly automotive type enamels and lacquers? did you ever notice any peeling or layering of the printed material?

you're off to building another of "my favorites". great work!

incredible work, tyrone!!!!! i'd say, "i think this is my favorite" but, i say that with every new car you build. awesome job!!!!!

great work, joe! looks fantastic!

thanks, harry. doug, thanks for the info. and i will check that out. frank, this is exactly want i'm looking for info. wise. one thing to remember is, i work in 1/8 scale so the resolution issues are a little less of a head ache. thanks guys!!!! much appreciated. if there is any one else with good info. i'd like to hear from you.

i am looking for anyone with actual hands on experience with the maker bot brand. i am considering investing in one and would like to hear input from any one that actually owns or works with one. i am not looking to start a discussion on the pros and cons nor the viability of 3-d printing. please, there is no need to reply to this, if you have no actual hands on experience. thank you.

this is just phenomenal , tyrone!!!!!! your skills blow me away!!!!! can't wait to see some color on this.

if this helps or not i don't know but, the rear chris is using is not a ford 9". it does look like a semi decent replica of an early olds rear. i am not referring to chris's work when i say semi decent . i am referring to the model companies efforts. the pinion support is integral on an early olds rear rear not a bolt in pinion support like the ford 9".

nikko, those are two really fine looking top shelf facilities. are they the only two? or do you have some smaller less high dollar tracks too? hey dave, hopefully you won't have to watch it on t.v. this week end. i'll be going sat. morning.

looks great, wayne. keep us informed on it's progress.