comp1839

tyrone.....do you mean an nhra pro mod or are you talking adrl pro nitrous or an outlaw. if you want to be authentic / correct it all makes a difference.

personally joe, i liked where you were at with them here. (SEE PIC ABOVE) since you've changed, i like #3 & #4. are you going with a front or rear air entry on the intake joe?

looks pretty good to me joe. i'll wait to see some more but, so far i'd say you're doing pretty darn good!

my guess would be 1/8 mile. another serious difference is NO screwblowers.

good news. if you go back to the adrl site, they have added a new class this year..........pro mod. basically (basically, i said) the same rules format as the nhra. so those cars can compete. you'll get to see that an nhra pro mod and any of the adrl extreme cars are two completely different animals. just cause it's dressed like a pro mod don't mean it's a pro mod........hehe.

only by actually reading the rules will you be able to even think about catching stuff like that. if there's something to learn here it's..................................... ..........READ THE RULES!!!!!!! honest guys........it doesn't hurt. they're easy to find and they're ohhhhhh so informative.

seriously good info in those pics. studying build pics, like that, are just invaluable!!!!!!!!!!!!! now if we can just get some one to spring for the artwork and have that body made. hehe.

great story. nice pics.

i believe you will find the captions are backwards on this add. you have to ask yourself, why would i put headlights in my pro mod? they are not required. where as pro stocks are reqired to put in stock sealed beam light lenses or accepted replicas. same with the grille. pro stock required.

"projack" is a brand name like "jello". since they are the most famous makers. these jacking / jackstand systems are all referred to "projacks". much like all gelatin products are called "jello". searching the back of racing publications and the internet will yield more companies than just "projack".

i think you have what could be a cool project. finding drag race photos of a pacer will be tough. finding anything fast is probably non-existant. i believe glenn has found the body answer for you. the rest is up to you. ask questions there are alot of good answers just waiting. hey, if some one told me an old '55 shoebox wagon would have held the ADRL PX record in 3.50"s. i'd have scoffed. if a shoe box wagon can do it.........why not a fishbowl? here's the shoebox wagon.

looks great greg! awesome as always!

dave, the guys that were trying the turbo's in the trunk thing were mostly 10.5 / 275 radial or some other small tire class were traction is at a real premium.

my suggestion would be, someone should contact five star. the print they are telling you is a pro mod print is a pro stock or something other than a pro mod. a 105" wheel base is pro stock territory not pro mod. in another spot on their site they list the pro mod body as 109" -115" wheel base. more appropriate pro mod numbers. they also list their pro mod and pro stock noses reversed. pro stocks need real head lights and a simulated grille face. . pro mods don't.

no body said it was cheap, henry. hehe. just kiddin'. seriously, for a body to come to you guys is a pretty serious investment for the guy funding the project. you might want to complain about the cost when you buy one. the guy funding it pays more than you do. something to think about.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=345944 14 pages of pro mod paint jobs.

looks great mike!! the body really turned out well. nice clean details. really looks the part! great job!!

that's some VERY nice machining bill. the rest of the model is spotless. i would go on but, i think it's almost all been said. i'll need to save something for the end! hehe. if you need anything.......... yell!

hey henry, who's doing the 3-d artwork?

my apologies chuck.

that's great to hear!

thanks but, no, i didn't design the TDR 11" rear. so you "understand" that even buying another 11" rear, those photo etch brackets won't fit? they are intended for a rear like this. this is a fabricated ford 9". hope this helps.

jack, you ordered parts that aren't compatitble. the mark williams rear is a modular design. it bolts together. the 4 link plates you ordered are for a fabricated (welded rear). the two parts aren't compatible 1:1. they aren't compatible in 1:16. to put it into perspective, you're trying to put a small block ford head onto a big block chevy block. sure it's cyl. head. it's just the wrong cyl. head. your plates are 4 link plates. just for the wrong rear. this is what your 4 link bracket should look like for the MW 11" modular unit.

it is for sure an extremely hard thing thing you are attempting joe. those headers are going to be "tight". i was wondering if solder in this instance would be a better choice? either way, i have to tell you this thing is smokin'!!!!!!!

what you have here is exactly what you have in real life. first you are comparing 2 different manufacturers 4 link housing brackets against each other. they aren't the same type of rear first. the mark williams shown is a modular housing. the bracket for it should be showing holes for the bolts that clamp it sandwich style between the hub and the housing . while the bracket for the modular rear isn't totally correct, you still can't compare it to a weld up style bracket, which is what dirt modeller has duplicated. even weld up style brackets are manufactured for 3 different tube sizes. 3", 3 1/4", and 3 1/2" diameter axle tubes are out there. even the placement of the four link mounting holes are different from the same manufacturer sometimes. also shock mounting and sway bar mounting holes vary. if you want parts to follow what's really out there. then, we all have to make sure we understand how it really works out there. i agree 100% that these guys that manufacture parts need to do their homework. they should be selling as accurrate part as they can. we, as buyers, have to make sure we follow the same knowledge guidelines we hold the manufaturer to. searching the internet and asking questions is the best way to find out the answer.