comp1839

this is exactly what i'm talking about, john! your creativeness is off the charts. mix that with your talent and well............you get this. i cannot begin to tell you how impressive this is.

thanks, john. it's a shame you live on the west coast and i'm on the east coast. i'd love to see your work first hand. it's just flat out gorgeous.

derrick. the headers turned out great!!!!!

this is just a great build darryl. very cool!

ken, the tread looks VERY convincing. i'd say you're onto something. keep at it and keep us posted. oh, there's a "scratchbuild section" ? where at?

have you decided on your turbo placement joe? no matter which area you chose for them those headers are gonna be tough. yell, if you need anything.

your abilities to detail amaze me charlie. i don't think i can even see that small and yet you have the bolt spacing perfect. super workmanship.

i like the improvement romell. great job!

looks great joe! i know how much time you have invested in this and believe me, you're doing great!

looks fantastic karsten! that black paint looks a mile deep!!!!!!

virgil, good luck with your philosophy question.

harry, the definition provided was for SCRATCHBUILDING, not model building. of course you can build a model from a kit but, scratch building is scratchbuilding. you can build some scratchbuilt parts but, you DON'T have a scratchbuilt model. by the way, you don't have to agree with the definition. it's from wikipedia. take it for what it's worth. again, purist vs. "most modelers".

Scratch building is the process of building a scale model "from scratch", ie. from raw materials, rather than building it from a commercial kit, kitbashing or buying it pre-assembled. Scratch building is easiest if original plans of the subject exist; however, many models have been built from photographs by measuring a known object in the photograph and extrapolating the rest of the dimensions. The necessary parts are then fashioned out of a suitable material, such as wood, plastic, plaster, clay, metal, polymer clay, or even paper, and then assembled. Some purists consider a model not to be truly scratchbuilt unless all of the parts were made from raw materials. However most modellers would consider a model including commercial detail parts as scratchbuilt. i downloaded this definition from wikipedia. i guess the first thing to clear up would be if you (the reader) are a "purist" or one of the "most modelers" catagory. i guarentee the "philosophy" of these two catagories will differ significntly.

virgil, maybe you would define scratchbuilding vs. kitbashing vs. whatever. i know there are a few people who don't quite get the difference and there is a difference. i know the word "scratchbuilder" carries a lot of intrigue or mystique for some and therefore gets attached to a lot of things it shouldn't. to claim the title of a "scratchbuilder" it's important that you actually "scratchbuild" something and not just perform modifications to a part.

typically the tubing around the window is 3/8" chromemoly. there are typically tabs welded to the tubing. the bolt size is typically a 10/32 button head or (if you are into a lot more work) a flathead. i say typically as there are as many variations as there are stars in the sky. these numbers will put you in the ball park.

awesome work, joe!

holy cow, ken! stellar effort!! keep up the killer work!

lookin' good, romell! keep after it.

chris, in no way am i trying to step on your build. i have seen this car at some of the shows i go to and it is FANTASTIC!!!!! i was only trying to assist those who don't understand how the real stuff works.

they are cogged timing belts and sprockets. they are not a "v" type belt. besides,the distributor on this setup does not control the ignition timing. these systems have a crank trigger. they do how ever control "phasing".

google jesel valvetrain products and look under belt drives.

fyi. the "dist." is not really mounted to the front of the intake manifold. it actually mounts to the front of the block via the upper timing cover bolts. the "dist" is being run off of the front of the cam via a belt drive. i could go into a more detailed explanation if you like. it does give kind of the impression that the dist. is mounted to the front of the manifold although the reality is, that it's not. hope this helps.

robert, they say, once you go big,..................LOL! henry, you should give it a shot. you won't be disappointed

sounds like somebody needs a challange. i'm thinking you should do a 1/8 build. that'll keep you busy!!!!LOL!!! by the way, nice tire rack.! hehe.

fyi, for all of the modelers out there. the fasteners used to hold the aluminum panels on are DZUS (pronounced zoos) fasteners. hope this helps.