wisdonm

Yes. At the '56 NASCAR race at Road America they had a Saturday race for cars up to 3,500cc. Paul Goldsmith in a Jaguar Mk VII beat Jerry Walters in a Studebaker followed by Herb Thomas in a Ford Zephyr.

Mike and George, I made a short tute on making the figurines, You can find it here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69465&hl=

Several people have asked where I got the Plastic Jesus and Madonna that I used in my Unsafe @ Any Speed build. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=68807&hl= Here is how I did it: They are modified Z scale railroad figures. They make good hula girls and tikis also. 1. I glue on a base. These were two layers of 0.0145" styrene. 2. Reshape or add arms. 3. I used CA to make the robe arms and fill in between legs, or glue on brush bristles, to make grass skirt. 4. Paint as desired.

The only one that I know of is AMG (Automotive Modelers Group). But they meet at 6560 S 27th St, Oak Creek, WI at the Waterstone Bank. Probably take you one hour each way.

Got my attention.

You guys will all get your chance to erase all those folds and lines when the models come out. I'm amazed that someone isn't releasing a model as we speak.

Thanks for the comments guys.

Mike, I'll do a tute. John, send me a PM with your snail mail address. Detailed the drag chutes and made 16 zoomies. Installed the homemade decals and I think she's done.

I thought the Plastic Jesus was original. However, since no one seems impressed, have you guys seen this done before?

Oh yes. I have decal ideas. I do think that I have finished the interior. Scratch built things like 2 Sun tachs, console, fire extinguisher, parachute release lever, if you look real close, you can see the return spring beneath the blue cable, trans and throttle cables for rear engine, Moon Big Foot pedals for both gas and brakes, and a Plastic Jesus and Madonna. After all, it is unsafe at any speed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHf7TD4qwjk Sadly, the Plastic Jesus hit the windshield and had to be re-located to the console.

AJ, I too fantasized about building a Corv8. Somewhere along the line, I fell in love with the '66-'70 Eldo/Toro UPP (unitized power package in GM speak). This resulted in the twin-engined slalom car, described in reply #14, and UPP powered '69 Beetle, '67 912 Porsche, Deserter GT, and rear engined '93 Dodge Daytona IROC. Don't know how we missed a UPP Corvair. It would be much more practical, with a rear seat, and probably outperform most Corv8. Along the way there was also a 140 hp Corvair powered Isetta

Not exactly sure what info you need 57lover. SillyPutty is a commercial brand for a putty-like kid's toy that is made from white glue and liquid starch. I flattened a chunk to about a 1/2 inch thickness. I depressed the original chute into the putty, detail side down, and fished it out carefully with a hobby knife. I used two-part casting resin for the parts. I have successfully used two-part epoxy and super glue in the past. The casting resin just sets up faster, super glue can take days to set, and has less clean up. This was an exercise in learning new paint techniques. So I got stupid today and hauled out my $5 HF airbrush. I have owned it for at least 6 years. Until today, I only used it once, 4 years ago, because I hate cleaning it. The taping was an unexpected success. My skill with the air brush wasn't even close. That's Tamiya X-24 Clear Yellow and black. Tried doing a fade. Had no control (skill) and mucked it up pretty good. This is the taping for the silver areas. Anything covered in blue tape will remain silver. All the silver areas, were painted with clear yellow, because I didn't have any kandy yellow. Then I had to tape out the yellow and silver, so that I could spray the black. I was in a poorly lit and cramped space with no experience, so the fade is rather poor. Removed all the tape and rattled canned four more coats of clear and it looked like this.

Pretty much have the chassis and body mods worked out. Here is the latest mockup. Got some paint on the body. This was a long process, since the seven coats of clear were done with rattle cans. I used Silver Flash Krylon Glitter Blast. Then I smothered those huge flakes with seven coats of Folkart clearcoat. Both of these were bought at Michaels with 40% & 50% off coupons. I also needed some drag chutes, so as long as I had one , I made a couple of copies. I used a simple open faced mold made by pressing the original chute into some silly putty that I got at a $ store. This time I used some resin for the parts. Worked a lot better than the super glue that I used the last time, since it dried in an hour and was easier to clean up.

You're right. I meant Toro, but they've still been bored to 500 cu in. Need room for the valves to breathe. Those are special order magnetos made by Schiefer, just like the Hairy Olds used. Mike, the measuring thing was something new. What I don't understand is that I cut the torsion bars twice, yet they're still too short.

Mike, yest here will be two 500 cu in engines. One just doesn't seen enough. Joe, like on multi-engined planes, there are two hand throttles to adjust individual engine speeds. However, there is only one Moon Big Foot gas pedal. High Octane, I never owned a Corvair. I was a co-owner of an autocross racer, that consisted of two modified '68 Toronado frames, with an engine on each end. Oh, it had no body, but it did have four wheel steer. We didn't have big enough tires on it. 2,200 pounds, 800 hp, and 1,000 ft lbs of torque stock. It was fun. Finished the wheels and tires. The tires are a strange two-piece affair. They consist of a hard vinyl tire and a styrene wheel back insert that has part of the sidewall molded to it. The tires had to be buffed in order to square them up. I then added some ancient Shabo dry rub M/H markings. Those are not hub caps, but custom front wheel drive wheels. The suspension needs to be narrowed, a lot. I started by cutting the spindles back 2" on one cradle. If I go much further, it wouldn't have enough clearance to steer the front wheels. The front cradle was narrowed 3/16". The rear cradle was narrowed 1/4" and the rear torsion bars were shortened 10mm. I think the rear frame rails were shortened another 4mm so that they would tuck inside the reattached rear grill. No. You're not seeing double. That's double trouble in the form of two blown, alcohol burning, 500 cu in Cadillac Eldorado engines and trans-axles. The Hairy Hurst had two small fuel tanks and the frame rails held 33 quarts of water. There is no radiator. My car has an empty original engine compartment and back seat area to hold these things. Got the chassis, suspension, and engines worked out. The ends of the zoomies are not installed yet.

This is a Corvair matchracer from the late '60s. Basically, too much is not enough. So I'm going to combine a Corvair and the Hurst Hairy Olds. I call this build Unsafe @ Any Speed. The first thing that I did was narrow the track 12 scale inches, by removing two six inch wide strips from the Olds' chassis. The Hairy Olds used Olds Toronado power-trains. In the 442 body they were a foot too wide for the Corvair. I had to narrow it in two 6 inch strips, because the engine and trans mounts are in the center of several of the eight cross-members. Next, I shortened the wheelbase 15 inches. And finally shortened the rear floor pan another 11 inches. A tweak here and there and it fits. Later I had to remove another 4mm from the rear, to center the wheels in the wheel wells.

Don't get your panties in a bunch. Confiscating and destroying are different animals. It would make no sense to destroy them when you can always ransom them back to the manufacturer, DM, or a third party.

The Happy Hobby on 84th & National burned last night, New Years eve. Sound business decision, if you ask me.

Very clean, Mike.

Looks like John Andretti's 2009 car.

That's some fancy painting.

Great. They don't look good new, and won't improve with age.

Very nice clean model. I have been involved in road racing for almost 50 years and have seen plates on more cars than I can count. This is the Hill/Spence Chaparral 2F with Texas plates. Plates were required in FIA races back in then.

Ho, ho, ho. And a prosperous new year.

I saw this tute somewhere. It works well with chain or cord, for a vintage look. It's pretty straight forward. The only trick part is the soldering, super gluing, or white gluing the rim while it is on the pencil or other fixture.