wisdonm

Very nicely done. I liked that you blacked out the B pillars, like on the latter ZX, but you missed out on the body colored bumpers and headlight covers, that really improved the looks of this car.

Because of the public's all around bad taste, I can't believe there weren't more Z Rods built.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69646

More.

I actually found the link to this amazing build on another site. I am interested in the spare tire cover. It looked like a regular tire for a long time, then all of a sudden it turned into a cover some how. Could you explain what you did? Now I'm going to look for your other builds. Do you have any links?

Like KC says, it's going to cost at least $35 for a body mold. Then you need resin. Might as well by the kit and get all the rest of the parts.

Original Gone in 60 Seconds.

Pat, what process do you use to make your decals? White letters on black indicate they're not ink jet.

The lady across the cul de sac is from India. Her father is a gazillionare. Made his fortune reverse engineering and then producing auto parts. They're not ashamed of it. Some resin casters are reverse engineers.

That is very interesting. Unpainted 3d printed kits are being sold here for hundreds of dollars.

Little help please. I do not understand how the hub is built up and where the laces should go.

Here's my desktop...

On the other hand, it just means there is one less company that may have produced something original that you might have liked.

1968/9 Intermeccanica Italia GFX Spyder. Boss 302, Tremec 3550 5-speed, 3.8L rear, 2,500lbs, 4 wheel discs, and knock-off wires.

Well played Harry.

You might want to read these... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39079&hl=%2Bmach+%2Bworking http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66729&hl=%2Bmach+%2Bworking

MikeyBo8, just use one mm (millimeter) = one scale inch. In 1:25 this would amount to 0.03937 vs 0.04. This makes measuring very simple. It's close enough for hand grenades and tactical nuclear weapons.

V-6??? Who's?

Buy the new one and then return the old one.

I have used both BMF and Testors papers successfully. I can get Testors at 40-50% off at Hobby Lobby, so I usually use that. There are four types of decal paper. Be sure to use the right ones for your printer. There are inkjet papers and there are laser printer papers. They are not interchangeable. Both types also come in clear and white. I disagree with several of Tom's statements. I have used Dupli-Color clear without problems, but I usually use Krylon Krystal Clear to seal the decals first. Mist coats are important for success. Unlike ink jet decals, laser decals do not need to be sealed before applying. Second, ink jet decals are sadly far from opaque. They are very translucent and therefore do not show up well on dark colors. You can try layering decals, but it is hit and miss.

It 's sad that that site was never updated. I submitted several kits at least five years ago, and the still are not listed. Good luck with your new venture.

The styling wasn't all that different for it's time. The grill would probably been changed or modified at the first opportunity. It's been proven that people will by anything, if the price is right. Evidently, it wasn't.

That's out of the box. Nicely done.

After a lot of research, I'm actually building a hubless motorcycle model that I hope to debut at the Milwaukee NNL in April.