wisdonm

I'm considering a series of three versions. This one is a sports wagon or shooting brake style. I think the roof pretty much follows the center third of the fender. The second version will have a more radical fast back. The third will be a roadster, with the trunk mimicking the back half of the rear fenders. Yup Casey. That's it.

Hauled out some clay and got to work. Finally got to see what I had envisioned from the beginning. Not sure how I'm going to pull it off, but at least I'm motivated again. I'm terrible at sanding and putty work, so I'm trying a different approach. I've finished sculpting this thing. I'm going to try to cast this thing. If it works out I can make as many as I want. Then again, just because you can, doesn't mean you should. This will be my first try at casting something with fenders and a roof.

I did a V-12 here, http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44446&hl=%2Bferrari+%2Bmotorcycle&fromsearch=1

I like it a lot too.

I did a 2 1/2" gentleman's top chop to the rear. Two small cuts on each side of the roof let the top droop. This is the original floor pan. It has to be cut open so that the interior can be worked on after future modifications. You can see in the above pix, that I thinned the headlight nacelles.

I did some more cutting. I think I am done with the exterior sectioning part of this build. I have reduced the original body height from 57mm to 47mm. I'm now at a standstill. I discovered that because of additional modifications that I want to do, I won't be able to assemble the interior until I do some major surgery on the floor pan. This is what I've got. A lot of people dislike the kit headlights. Right from the start, I was planning on using VW Beetle headlights, however, after major sectioning, the originals are kind of growing on me.

I did some more work on this one. First I want to close up that 2mm gap between the body and the running board. All I'm going to have to do is raise the arches for the fenders. I did this by making patterns of the openings. Make sure that the patterns are raised perfectly vertically. It is very helpful to have vertical reference lines. In this case the door panel lines are perfect for this. Just raise the highest point of the pattern arc the amount you want to lower the body. The original height from the bottom of the running board to the highest point of the roof was 57mm. After this simple 2mm drop the height is now 55mm. I'm sure I can find at least another mm somewhere. Notice how the hood now sits 2mm too high now. It's always something.

I am going to use the '39 Wagon Rod kit. Although I have never built this kit before, I think it will become my #1 donor kit, in the future, replacing the Dodge Sidewinder, which has become pricy and hard to find. This kit has a rare Chevy LT5 DOHC engine, B-W 5-speed trans, separate Art Morrison frame, four-link rear suspension, Ford 9" rear end, air bag suspension including pump and tank, nice wheels and tires, and brake rotors and calipers. All neat parts and they are labeled on the instruction sheet, which is sorely lacking on so many kits, including Tamiyas. To me, this kit has everything going for it except it's not very pretty. It seriously needs to be sectioned. I'm going to try. I started out by setting the body on the piece with the fenders. What is going on here? There is a 2+ mm gap between the body and the running board. I colored it with a pink high-lighter in the pix. Next I mocked up the engine and trans in order to check clearances. The engine was assembled with white glue, so that I can disassemble it by soaking it in water. The frame has a slight twist behind the rear axle. Otherwise, it looks like I can do what I envision.

You can get the #60-81 drill index set inexpensively at a welding supply company. They call them tip cleaners for gas welders.

Next year's theme is...

Here is a link to Milwaukee NNL pixs. http://www.briansmod...d/601392/page/1

Where can I get Pearl X? What am I looking for?.

It depends on the specific car and scale. You can wrap the appropriate size wire around the threads of an appropriate size screw. Then unscrew the screw from your new spring. Remember most screws have a fine and coarse thread for each diameter size.

I should resurrect my McLeagle II.

I'll be there.

It's a "what if". As in why didn't Chrysler make a 'vette, 2-seat T-Bird fighter? They had all those Italian prototypes made in the '50-'60s.

Dam n Few Died in Bed by Andy Dunlop as transcribed and edited by Thomas F. Seal. It's the memories of a life in American automobile racing in 1930 - 1975 as lived by Andy Dunlop a mechanic and team owner of dirt and Indy racing cars.

I much prefer the looks of a negative offset, classic rear wheel drive, wheel. But from a performance, packaging, and suspension geometry point of view, positive offset s better.

I like the Revell Porsche GT1 for donor parts.

Here's some info... http://www.briansmodelcars.com/forums/thread/601368/page/1

Truly an exceptional, clean, and unique build. Would you please tell me what you used, and where to find the bras fitting on you lines? TIA

They also had a twin engined version with a stremliner body.

I don't mind people bringing old models to shows. They are new to a lot of people. I do believe that once you win a particular show, that car should be inelligible to win again at that show. There is some class shopping goin on, but there is also judges brain fade, when they judge models in the wrong class, just because the entrant put/entered it there. I was at a show last year when a beautiful shinny yellow box stock hot rod won the rat rod class! Shouldn't the judges have noticed that this was not a rat rod, and either ignored this model or moved it into the proper class?

Then and now. 1973 & 2010

Don Mills models. 617-319-9107 He makes truck stuff.