wisdonm

You could use a Powertec V 8type of set-up.

There's a Wisconsin model car site??? There are three or four clubs that I know of. One in the Milwaukee area, I think it's called Auto Modelers Group. There is another in the Fox valley, not sure what it's called. I'd have to research the others.

Live streaming of the Armor All Bathurst 12 Hour race. title= Live from Mt Panorama, Bathurst. Hashtag for Twitter is #12hour. http://www.ustream.tv/channel/bathurst-12-hour

Thanks for the reply. Good luck.

Actually it was quite simple. You can see a tute here .

The Turbine Car always looked like a giraffe carrier to me. That is why I chopped mine.

These guys have a Daytona.

If they don't make a Prius kit, how can you make these in scale?

I would like to post some pixs to my gallery. I can not see most of my pixs. I get this message instead... How do I correct this? I don't remember making any changes that would do this in the first place. TIA

Can I still enter? I've been building. I was afraid that this thread would disappear like the last community build (Foreign drag) I entered. I can post my wip if it's OK.

Believe me, spray snow will not work. When I did a snow dio I used white glue covered with baking soda. It is very realistic looking. Snow banks and piles can be carved from foam and glued in place. Then slather white glue over everything. I then just poured baking soda over everything. Let it dry overnight. Tap and brush off the excess powder. You can even build up layers if it was not enough the first time.

The metal panels are not formed nor hammered on the wooden bucks. The parts are formed elsewhere, then placed on the wooden buck to see how close they match, then removed. There used to be a 1/43 scale kit just like the first pix for a Shelby Daytona coupe.

Very nice build. I especially like the realistic weathering. Wish I could do that.

Sometimes you have to read the charts. They have part # N15020 which in 1/25 would be a 2" stack 20" tall for $14.31/1000 pieces. Or maybe # N25030 which is 2.6" x 30" for $17.01/1000. I usually don't cut them. I just use the right size.

I buy mine at Ferrules Direct. They are amazeingly cheap. The mini starter package is a great place to start. I use them for tailpipes and trim also.

Jim???

The aluminum tube is my tail light housing. I sprayed some rattle can paint on it the other day. I let it sit for 36 hours baked it on my improvised dehydrator, a floor heating vent. As you can see, I used a trusty coat hanger to hold the body for painting. The front and rear lower panels are also in approximate position. See above pix of body in primer. This is so the paint will match when it is assembled. I tried Testors One Coat Lacquer for the first time. I must admit I was impressed. It did cover in one coat and shined rather well. Since it covered so well, one of those little 3 once cans could do two or three bodies. First I used Dupli-Color gray primer sealer, because of some body mods. Then I sprayed one coat of Lime Ice #1835M. It has a lot of gold flecks in it. Then I sprayed it with a couple of coats of Dupli-Color clear. I am pleased to report there were no bad reactions between the paints. The pix shows just one coat of paint. No clear. It was done in a cardboard box in a chilly basement. It's about 20 F outside. After finishing the paint, I started working on the lights. I made new longer tail light housings. I then inserted a red LED into each one. Next I painted the backs of the tail light LEDs and most of the head light LEDs, with silver enamel paint, to prevent unwanted light scatter. Next is a pix of the first complete lighting system test. Surprisingly, it was successful. I just have to figure out how to cram it all into the body shell. There are twelve lights in total. I used four parallel sets of three lights in series. I'm sure the secret of these LEDs working so good for modeling is those little resistors. Get some x-mas lights while you can. They will eliminate a lot of problems and headaches. Once again, I'm amazed at what I don't notice until I post pixs. I forgot to paint the rear of the head light closest to the bottom of the pix. Notice the unwanted light scatter. Racing teaches you that nothing is lighter nor cheaper than nothing. I just have two bare wires sticking out the bottom of the floor pan covered with a piece of electrical tape. I just cross the wires to turn the lights on and uncross them to turn them off. Here is a pix of the lights test, just before final assembly. It has an artsy-fartsy look to it. I like it. You can see how the lights under the base of the windshield light up the outer edge of the windshield. A very kool effect, related to how fiber optics work. Yes, this was done on purpose. There are also ambient mood lights on the floor.

Did you realize today is 1/1/11? This year also contains 1/11/11 and then 11/11/11 too!

Did you paint the metalizer over the louver decals?

Hats are an option, but 8 hats and their plumbing would totally obscure the carbs and any shock value. With all that complexity, you have to ask why?

Yes it is technically possible. But why? Search Rick Dobbertin's J-2000. There are several cars that have multiple carbs, and turbos, and superchargers, and nitrous all on the same engine. Once again why? This complexity is only to prove it can be done and the shock factor in seeing it all in one place. It will not make more power than say a maxed out single tubo fuel injected engine of the same size. In fact a properly fuel injected engine will always make more power than a carbed one. If you are trying to make your's look cool, it is very hard with turbos and Webbers. The turbos have to either blow through the carbs, which means the carbs will be in a pressurized box and can't be seen well, or they will have to draw through the carbs, which will eliminate the cool looking traditional style intake manifolds. But yes, it can be done.

ACE is the place. ACE Hardware stores carry all that neat K&S stuff without the "hobby" price.

It's in the high 20s F, so painting is a problem. I put some primer on it. I used my cardboard box in the basement, while the wife was away. While the body primer was drying I moved on to the interior. I wanted to try something new for me. I used self sticking medical tape to add some texture to the interior. After adding medical tape to the seats and interior, I painted them with Folk Art 2225 Ocean Cruise acrylic paint that I bought at WallyWorld for under a dollar. I had previously drilled holes in the dash for instruments. I now filled the holes with Model Master Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker. I then shortened the shift lever, added some stick pins for buttons and a turn signal lever. Finally I modified the dash and mounted one of the original fender mirrors for a rear view mirror. This is a mock up of the rolling chassis. The battery is in the rear. There is more room in the front, but the battery will not fit between the body mounts. Even the rear body mounts had to be modified to make the battery fit. It's amazing what I notice after I post pixs. I noticed the tread pattern was wrong when I saw the mock up pix. They have been changed.

Truly amazing work and originality. To get that all done in one year is mind boggling.

I'm not sure where the tail lights are supposed to be on this car, so I thought I'd make my own. I started out by polishing up a piece of 7/32 OD aluminum tubing with steel wool. Then I cut a piece off with my X-acto miter box. Next I squared and deburred the ends. The LED is slightly tapered. It is larger at the wire end. So I had to use the rat tail file to enlarge one end so that the light will totally fit inside. That seemed easy enough. While trying to make holes in the rear deck for the new lights, I discovered it was going to be a more radical surgery than originally thought. The holes had to be much larger and I have to remake longer tail light housings. Worst of all, my Bondo was destroyed. Now comes the time in most of my builds where everything comes to a grinding halt. Puttying. After realizing what needed to be done, I made a jig to hold the tubing in place so I could Bondo around it. Then I put a light coat of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the tube, placed it in position, and Bondoed around it. Gratefully the tube pulled out with no problems, when the Bondo was dry. Unfortunately I needed to do some touch up putty work. I am on my fourth try. When my wife saw the tubing in the fixture when the Bondo was drying she asked, "Why did you make the hole so big, if you're just going to fill it in again?" Being a real glutton for punishment, I slicked up the tube again and mixed up some more Bondo. Here are the results. Next I drilled holes for the headlights and gauges on the dash. It was blank originally and no decals were provided.