Mooneyzs

So a very minor update. wanted to show everyone the valve covers and clutch can what they look after my so called Polishing. Sorry that the pictures a little crappy as I was having trouble getting some good pics with my cell phone out in the sun.

Chris... Keep asking questions if you have them. That's what this forum is all about to learn from one another. I think you will get a variety of answers from different builders on what they use. I went with Badger all those years ago because to me it felt more comfortable in my hand than Paasche's did a long time ago. You will have to figure out whats comfortable for you. I am sure that Clay and John will chime in and let you know what they use.

Chris... you are welcome. I forgot to mention that on my badger I am using a medium tip. I couldn't pass up the Iwata eclipse with the 40% off coupon...lol but I always tend to fall back to my Badger 200 because if the consistency as you mentioned and that I am comfortable with it.

Tim.... outstanding work my friend. That Y pipe looks great. You are right adding some of the Archer weld beads will just make this piece pop for sure.

Go Check out Mikes Decals. He has a bunch of great products and I have picked up a fair share of Powerslide decals. They have to be some of the best out there. Here is his website https://www.mikesdecals.com/

John... I don't know what they are putting in the water in LA but you sure come up with some Crazy stuff for sure... . This is going to be a totally cool build. I have know over the years that you love subjects like this and this one has your name written all over it. You will be able to pull this off in your sleep. Looking forward to when you start this one. Raul.... Ok man that is just cool

James.... No I don't use any compound to buff it. What I refer to polishing it basically wiping off the dust on the Alclad with a soft cloth. When I do that it shines it up like polishing it. I will show pics soon of these parts polished up. Chris... Thank you very much. When it comes to Alclad I have found for me to get good results is all in the prep work for the parts. As well as I found that when I used my HOK black base along with the Urethane Clear I get a better result than when I used Alclads black base. I also have to mention that I was lucky enough to have John Teresi share with me this Techniques on his Alclad work and I have been trying to put it to use to get better at it. He has to be one of best at it in my opinion, he sure has the technique mastered for sure. To answer your question on the Air brushes I use. I am a big Badger fan and I have Badger model 200 single action air brush that I use most of the time and this air brush his my go to and have had it for over 20 years. About 3 to 4 years ago I picked up an Iwata Neo-Gen at Hobby Lobby for pretty cheap to try it out. At the time I thought it would be good to use for Alclad but it seemed I did a little better with my Badger. Maybe it was because I am not as used to a Dual Action air brush. Then about a year ago I picked up another Iwata air brush, It's and Iwata Eclipse model HP-CS Dual action air brush. I still haven't had a chance to use it yet but I was hearing some great things about it and I picked it up because it can do much finer detail Than my badger. Anyway I hope that helps answering your question. Another thing is that it took me a while to figure out what works best for me when it comes to painting. Finding out what works best for you as in what pressure to spray at, how fast of a pass you make on a body, how far away the air brush is from what your painting...etc Everyone's will find something that works for them. It may simply be the brand of air brush and how it feels in your hand. You need to find whats comfortable for you. Also lots of practice came to play. Trust me I messed up a lot of things over my years...lol

Hello Fellas.... Thought I would post a couple of pics with minor progress on my dragster. I was able to get some clear on my valve covers and clutch can. As well as I was able to spray some Alclad on them earlier this morning. I also picked up a few more items for the build too. Alright I will shut up and show you a few pics. So hear are the parts with clear added to them yesterday. I used HOK Black base and then cleared them with PPG Omni Plus Ureathane Clear: Then I had ordered a few more aftermarket Items from Laski Scale Specialties. Had to pick up some Pro Tech Blower Pulley's, a MAD Pre Wired Distributor and some Pro Tech Spark Plug wire. I will replace the White wire with the Yellow since in my reference pic you can see Yellow Spark plug wires. If you are ever needing any Pro Tech, Morgan Automotive Detail (MAD) or Studio 27 Parts, go take a look at http://www.laskiscale.com/ Art is a great guy to do business with and he gets his products shipped out quickly: Here is the Clutch Can and Valve covers after I sprayed some Alclad Chrome on them earlier today. Don't Judge the way the look since you still see a little bit of the over spray dust on them. I will be lightly polishing them and they will shine up really nice and show some after pics once I get them buffed out:

Tim... What an outstanding update my friend. That tin work is gorgeous and I know all too well how much of a pain it can be to do. And to keep tolerance with in .015", I have to give you many kudos to that. Your work has to be some of the post precise I have seen and I just love this build. I still really want to see what you can do to a 1/16th scale build . Not sure how many more things you have left to fabricate but i am guessing you have to be darn close to having it all done. Looking forward to seeing some paint on it but I sure hate to see all that beautiful brass work covered up. Looking forward to your next update

You sure you got the right thread

Tim.. thank you. I am excited about this paint scheme with this one. I really like the contrast between the blue chassis and red body for some reason. Hey I tried posting on your bantam thread and I am getting errors for some reason. Seems the site is jacked up for me again. I will pm you a screen shot of it. Andy... this has been fun so far and a nice change of pace for me...lol

John... do you have any updates for us in this bad boy?

John... thanks man, no worries at all. I am really glad that I am doing the carefree version. There was something about it that I just liked when I saw it and was so glad that Chuck Boerner had those decals. Looking forward to another update of your Garlits dragster. Brad... thanks for always having us over the night before the Deseet Scale show. It's always a good time for sure.

Rick.... this build is stunning and looks great. Love the color on this. Nice work.

John... That paint work just keeps getting even more gorgeous with more of the details you are adding to it. Looking good with the Foil and Flames!!

Hello Fellas... I was able to get to the bench for a few tonight and got a couple things done today. First I am happy to say that I received my decals from Chuck Boerner. Thank you Chuck for getting them printing and shipped out quickly for me. I was able to get a start on gluing some of the engine parts together. It's not a lot of progress but its some. I still need to do some minor mods to the chassis and I keep debating with what I want to do with the seat and molded in chassis to the back of it and the reason being is that the chassis and the back of the seat are 2 different colors. Here are Chuck's decals that I received which are printed on an Alps printer: Here I wanted to check the placement since Chuck mentioned to me that this was originally done for the Revell or Monogram kit, I can't remember now...lol: Here is the motor with the oil pan and manifold glued in place. Then I decided to add some Moroso decals to the oil pan. I liked what Clay did with his Miloden decals and I wanted to do something a tad different. I still would like to weather it a little bit: Here is the Manifold glued in place:

John... That paint work of to a Killer start and looking Mighty Fine!! Can't wait to see more of it next.

Jimmy and James... it's been doing it to me as well along with at times when I did try to post on it, it was giving me a reply failed and a couple times where it took me to the model cars website to buy a T-shirt. So it sounds like it is more people than just John and me having trouble with it. I was thinking maybe the tread could be corrupted. Anyway I can't wait to see more progress on this one John. It's Stunning so far.

Any new updates for us to drool over John??

Jason... Looking forward to when you get back to this one. Love me some 1/16th builds

Joe.... Thank you very much, I really appreciate the kind words. I am hoping to possibly get a few of the last items checked off my list this weekend. well one goal is to get the hose clamps assembled and put on to the oil blow off lines from the valve covers to chassis. I would really like to get this one completed here soon.

Then in the mean time, I ran across a couple pics of MeEwen's dragster and it showed a push bar on the back and I thought it looked cool so I though what the heck that should be pretty easy to make and decided to chop off the rear of the chassis: Next it was time to prep some of the engine parts for paint, I scuffed them all up with some fine scotch-brite: Then yesterday after I got home from work, I broke the air bush out and painted the parts. I used House of Kolor Black base on the parts and then on the Manifold I used Alclad's Magnesium and the oil pan I was going to originally go with Alclad's Gold but I had issues with mine where it was sorta thick and gel like. I was bummed because I really wanted to use that color for it and it was a brand new bottle, so I had to settle for a Pale Burnt Metal. the block with stay with just the HOK black base and then the Valve covers and bell housing need to be cleared so that I can spray Alclad Chrome on them:

Alright Fellas... got a little update to share with everyone as I have gotten a little more work done on my build. When I first stared sanding the mold lines on the chassis to clean them up for some reason they were sorta hard to see due to the color of the plastic I believe and I sprayed the chassis with primer so that I could see the mold lines and I started sanding the chassis away. Then it was time to get some of the engine parts in primer and re shoot the chassis with some primer:

John... That paint work is Gorgeous my friend. I Can only imagine what this bad boy is going to look like with the rest of the paint work completed. She will shine like a Diamond for sure.

John... That paint work is Gorgeous my friend. I Can only imagine what this bad boy is going to look like with the rest of the paint work completed. She will shine like a Diamond for sure.