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I've had good luck with vinyl tape, like electrical tape type. It cuts crisply, sticks, adheres on odd shapes. I've used this type of tape mostly on sign type projects, I've used it on models too with good luck. In some of the automotive related custom paint and airbrush related publications lately there are a lot of painters using the plotter type sheet vinyl (used for signs now days). You might see if you can get some from a local sign shop, if they can't fit it into their plotter they normally have no use for it. It's applied like a decal. Spritz the surface with a spray bottle (water), squeegee down with a soft rubber squeegee then lightly trim the desired pattern. Removes like tape and if applied correctly almost zero bleed.

Speechless!

If I remember right, the Myers Manx engine is based on a 36 hp engine, guys used to whine about that the first time the Meyers Manx came out. I haven't got one to refer to but I remember that the generator stand was not a bolt on, VW changed to bolt on stands starting with the 40 hp on. You probably already knew that anyway. Okrasa made some pretty cool stuff for the 36 and 40 hp motors, a guy I worked for had a set of Okrasa dual port heads on a 40 hp engine, he ran 28 pisdt Solex carbs (in a 55 oval window).

That looks great! Glossy or Flat would have looked excellent either way. Very reminiscent of the "Chezoom" I like yours execution better, the Chezoom looked like it arched up off of the pavement.

That Dick Tracy '36 looks nice like all of your models, funny thing you can even see in the pictures the improvements in paint and polishing from the eighties and nineties until now. Don't get me wrong your paint is way above average, it gives it more of a daily driver look. Since you do "Factory Stock" another way to use the '36 frame and flathead would be to build up the frame as a display like they used to do for the auto shows and or large dealer display. I've seen old pictures of the thirty's and forty's displays that look like they would make an interesting subject for the right modeler. Hint. Hint...

As always John your work is impeccable, I always learn something when I watch how you construct your masterpieces. You never cease to amaze or impress me with your work, that's sayin' a lot too, I've been around the block once or twice!!!

That's different! Had a '36 Dodge parked next to us a couple years ago at a car show, the grill sure didn't look like a Deuce grill shell! Looks interesting though, and you thought adding a Deuce Grill Shell to trucksters and high buck rat rods was a new idea. Not!!! Should look pretty good with whatever body you settle on, '39 Chevy should work out even if you don't straighten the slanted pillars.

Hey Bernard, Thanks for the info on Alterd States / Chuck Mier's eBay I.D. is oldmandowntheroad Just the other day I was. Looking at the Surfer's Dragster Body, being that it is a resin piece I was a tad bit leery of buying from an unknown source. Chuck really doesn't let his potential eBay buyers know that he is the guy who is casting the products. I thought that he was just someone unloading a bunch of unknown resin stuff so I didn't pull the trigger and buy it. Guess I'll have to go back and look again.

I thought it was just me, that body looks a little thick through the belt line, first I thought it was the side pipes. Then I looked closer, too thick put that thing on a diet!

Ivan, That's what I thought when you said Acrylic Paint. The Acrylic thinner that I use is an alcohol base to it, which is what I would imagine is in most. All I ever use when spraying Acrylics through my airbrushes is a particle or dust mask. I don't use a respirator unless I'm shooting lacquer thinner or hotter. The alcohol in he acrylic thinner is rubbing alcohol, so it isn't something that is going to get you looped from the fumes. Unless you are shooting to the point that there is more paint fumes than oxygen in the room there should be little to no issue. You certain that you are not sensitive to paint? Some people are or do get to the point they are. 1.) Work on venting the area you are spraying paint in to get good air exchange without causing drafts which could cause paint drift. 2.) Use gloves to protect your skin from paint and alcohol drying your skin out. 3.) Work on setting up some sort of paint booth which draws the fumes out of the room.

That had to have been a mistake, I think I paid a a little under $200 for that same spray booth. Great booth.

Got the Slingster Front Axle the other day, it took a little over two weeks from the time of request to the replacement arriving I'm my mail box. That's customer service as it should be, both in speedy replacement and for standing behind their product. Thank you Revell!!!

Is this an acrylic lacquer, acrylic enamel or just straight acrylic paint? What are you using for thinner, alcohol base or is it solvent based? The issue sounds like it could be the thinner you are using? I looked up MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for Gunze Sangyo Paints, they evidently don't or won't publish them. Your respirator issue could be related to the filter not being rated for the type material you are spraying. See the link for 3M Filter cartridges below. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UF6EVsSyXTtOXMEm8TEEVtQEVs6EVs6EVs6E666666--&fn=Respiratory%20Selector%20V5.pdf Other respirator issues can be traced to fitment issues. Do you have a beard? When you close off the filter cartridge with the palms of your hands and breath in are you sucking in air or does the respirator body suck in like it's supposed to? If you are sucking air the respirator is too large for your facial structure, get fitted for a smaller filter. Are the rubber exhaust vents working properly, they can become twisted to the point you are drawing outside air through the exhaust. If you are spraying acrylic (water base) then a particulate mask could be used as the alcohol in most acrylic thinners isn't that harmful in the amount that you are being exposed to. Another clue you mention is that the paint still has an odor after a month of curing, most paints gas out sooner than that. There could even be some chemical sensitivity issue going on. Ivan, do you by chance have allergies? Some people with allergies have a difficult time working around or with chemicals and paints in general. I am not familiar at all with the type paint that you are spraying, I am however familiar with respirator use and protecting myself from most types of paints. I've also used respirators from the basic cartridge filter types up to the supplied air respirators for my job to mitigate exposure from lead, paint and other chemicals. Could someone with experience with the Gunze paints chime in. Interested in your experience with this paint. Do we have any Auto Body Painters who might have any ideas?

Agree with the variegated leaf, but use the leaf "size" (adhesive) recommended by the manufacturer plus their clear sealer. I think I've seen the Kits in Michael's and Hobby Lobby with the size and sealer in them. If you want a higher grade, as in for more money, variegated leaf, size and sealer look for it in a sign supply shop. One Shot makes Gilding supplies, the leaf is thinner at sign suppliers as well.

With really light washes of the colors mentioned. Build up slowly. Dry each wash so that you don't go overboard. Work light to dark, one color at a time, mixing multiple colors makes for a muddy wash. Wou could even "stipple" the wash on using a quill pen or other fine tip that will hold a small amount of paint. Wash refers to diluting the paint to a near transparent state and applying in small amounts. It can be Don with enamels by thinning them to near clear which will give a slightly granulated effect. The more dilution you have with the paint the more distance between the pigment particles. It isn't hard to get it to work. Best part is if you don't like the effect you can remove it either by stripping the whole thing or working down in layers with a Qtip slightly dampened with thinner, almost dry. A second method could be used either with the wash or alone from the wash would be dusting with Artist's Chalks, which has been covered here and on other boards tutorials. Seal the Artists Chalks with a workable Artists Fixative. Most any weathering technique could be used to repliccate a burned header paint effect. Most Race Cars are not allowed to rust up, sponsors don't like the look. The weathering would be what took place from a few trips down the quarter mile in this case, something that is slightly burnt, charred or even just dis-colored.

That looks really great. As for the white headers, you could always give them that slightly charred around the edges look that white VHT header paint gets after being run a while. Even more so with supercharged engines. The last one of those I built I ditched the frame and put it on an Orange Crate chrome tube frame with a Chevy 6 out of the '51 Bel Air kit with triple Webbers (don't remember their source maybe Revell VW), weed burner headers (Plastruct tubing). Came out pretty nice, that is until it rolled off the shelf and my nephew thought it was a great toy. Quickly destroyed! Fiddly parts don't stand up to the four year old toy tester!

jb, That came out great. Ride height isn't too bad either. Didn't notice it on your on the workbench photos but the tires look a little tall for 10 inchers, is the rim size taller than 10 inches? Must just be the pictures. Engine bay is spot on, I've poked my head around many a Mini engine bay. (Literally too, that hook-like catch that they added to keep the bonnet from flying up at speed I think Mark II or III and later gets the back of the head almost every time!)

That's nice, big fan of Forties, so much so we are looking for a full sized Forty Coupe right now. Like how you did it without the trim.

Needs a spreader bar on the front of the frame rails and that's all.

Alan, that Fireball 500 trailer really fits the Mooneyes dragster, at first glance I thought it was scratch built. I got the Cube as well. As jb and others have pointed out the variations on the Mooneyes dragster changed almost every time they ran it! My Cube comment above more so refers to the fact I'm not a fan of the Cube in the first place. Looks too cutesy, cartoonish. Like the designer tried too hard to make it look like it came from a Manga comic.

There is an "Air Box" sold for that, the hole in the back of the firewall is already there and has a blanking plate fitted over it. The "Air Box" fits into that hole and seals off the back of the Centre Binnacle so that the sucking noise from the carburetor stays on the engine side of the firewall. I've never fitted a Webber to a Mini / Spridget engine, but I understand they are a bear to tune properly. You see Side Draft Webber 48 IDA's on dedicated Race Engines that primarily run high RPM's pulling huge amounts of air through the motor. On a street & track Mini / Sprite / Midget you see mostly SU's and some recently running the Mikuni motorcycle carbs. For "Hot Street" a whole lot of Mini's are running the 1-3/4" Bore SU they pull as much air as most of the smaller bore dual carbs. With stock crank shaft and main bearing configuration Mini engines are not a high RPM Motor, which is why the Weber is difficult to tune to a small motor. They look cool though!

jb, How thick is the Bonnet? Could the thickness be contributing to your issue with the bonnet not properly closing? What about removing the head from the block and shortening (decking) the block enough to gain enough room to make it fit under the bonnet. Removing the material from the block would probably be the least noticeable place to remove material, the height of the head would pretty much disguise it.

Bill, it's called "Dumbing Down". Johnny or Susie can't understand how to do it so they stopped teaching what kids didn't understand. That's why all the standardized testing is huge in the world of education right now. As in the U.S. Education system is trying to play catch up with the rest of the world who refused to stop teaching the basics, they just found better methods to teach kids in ways they understand. (My wife is a Teacher, I hear about this stuff almost every day!)

I've used a standard old calculator forever, most of my measurements are made with either dial or digital calipers or a machinists rule (hundredths). So converting the measurements to decimal just makes the whole scaling up, down all that much easier. Accuracy normally boils down to how many significant digits beyond the decimal point you wish to take it. Even with digital calipers styrene has enough give to it that there could be some loss of accuracy as no two people measure with the same amount of pressure. In scale modeling hundredths of an inch is probably more than accurate, unless it's metal thousandths are just overkill. The key to accurate number crunching is to allow the significant digits to float throughout the calculations, then round the output to the appropriate significant digit, which would be the last mathematic calculation. Most decent calculators can be set up to float the decimal point, they do it throughout the calculations though; so there could be a minute amount of loss of accuracy.