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If you make it into production I will want to buy at least one. Funny we've had a few decent VW Bugs and Bus Variants but the engines have always been blobs that sorta looked like a VW air cooled motor. Any model company that would have done a decent air cooled VW engine would have had a hit on their hands, just for the engine alone.

I've never used it for this but what about the liquid tape vinyl stuff used to dip tool handles and insulate wire. Maybe use the black color applies with a sharpened toothpick or small bit of wire build up little dots until you have about the depth you're looking for. Then the lighter splash using acrylic paint black with a slight red tint either airbrushed or the same dip-n-dot method used for the liquid tape. Heavy burnout rubber builds up some dimensional buildup which is why the liquid tape. An alternate method might be to use black acrylic artist's paint starting straight from the tube, thinning as you go. It's all about the illusion of the real thing.

This one to me brings back memories of my high school parking lot with no less than three '61/'62 Bubble Tops and a few more Non-Bubble Top Impalas, most had small blocks. The one that did have a "W" block was only a 348, it was plenty fast though. Always wondered why someone ordered that car like that when they could have had the 409. Maybe they checked the wrong box! You've captured perfectly the '60's / '70's period when these were not quite as rare as today's prices make them seem. Your color is a perfect choice, nice break from the normal red on white. Nice detail. The lowered door window is a cool touch. I remember seeing most 61/62 Impalas running those J.C. Penney Scat Track tires than TA's, but that's no detraction. I like it a lot, Thanks for sharing it with the rest of us.

I thought the same thing when I saw this one, it really turned out beautiful, all that chrome, the pastel colors just scream fifties American Iron! In the full size world, station wagons have been a long overlooked subject that's gained a "Cool Factor" just within the last couple of decades. Thanks for sharing your fine quality work with the rest of us, I like it a lot!

My first thought when I saw how old this thread is was like, "why is someone dragging up ancient posts again"; then I took a look at it and am glad it was brought back to the top, it was one of last years best models. So, thank whomever brought it back up again. This is one beautiful, imaginative creation, I see more of the talented, quality building techniques that didn't sink in the first time I looked at this beautiful model. Oops, I almost forgot the paint, it's so Swell it's (almost) by Mattel!! (The rest of you Old Farts will get/remember that commercial reference) I'm still thinking this kit would make a great start to some of the Model T Speedsters that are showing up lately. Makes me want to find one to use with some of those Stock '25 T kits that I've got Rat Holed. Now if I could just find a few more sets of decent Model A wheels and tires... maybe a set of Buffalo Wheels.... hmmm....

Can't stand the show, Really, Really Love your VW Pickup. Just the right amount of Stock and tasteful Modifications to make it believeable. Incidentally the reason that the VW Single and Double Cab pickups are so rare here in the U.S. Is that the Detroit Big Three felt threatened over the sales of "the Peoples Car". When VW started importing the then cheap Type II pickups cutting into domestic truck sales Detroit lobbied and got a signicant tariff applied to all import pickups.

Wonder if what you are seeing is the color variations between between solvent base single stage and the newer waterborne clear coat formula. Not to mention the original formulation probably had a bit of lead in it. Many of the newer metallic bits in today's paints were not even around when the original Plum Crazy Purple was new, they do reflect light differently. Another thought might be that the new cars are tributes to their originals, so they didn't adhere to the original color formulas but made it to look like the original Plum Crazy Purple.

The Superchargers were made by Judson.

The Slingster is becoming one of my favorite recent kits, I think I really need to "rat hole" a few more of them. I really like that body it makes the Slingster really "Pop". Love the great job you did on this one, the change to the headers looks right on! (Just put an order in with Chuck at Altered States, kinda makes me wish I'd included one of these bodies in it. He has them on eBay too.)

I've had good luck with vinyl tape, like electrical tape type. It cuts crisply, sticks, adheres on odd shapes. I've used this type of tape mostly on sign type projects, I've used it on models too with good luck. In some of the automotive related custom paint and airbrush related publications lately there are a lot of painters using the plotter type sheet vinyl (used for signs now days). You might see if you can get some from a local sign shop, if they can't fit it into their plotter they normally have no use for it. It's applied like a decal. Spritz the surface with a spray bottle (water), squeegee down with a soft rubber squeegee then lightly trim the desired pattern. Removes like tape and if applied correctly almost zero bleed.

Speechless!

If I remember right, the Myers Manx engine is based on a 36 hp engine, guys used to whine about that the first time the Meyers Manx came out. I haven't got one to refer to but I remember that the generator stand was not a bolt on, VW changed to bolt on stands starting with the 40 hp on. You probably already knew that anyway. Okrasa made some pretty cool stuff for the 36 and 40 hp motors, a guy I worked for had a set of Okrasa dual port heads on a 40 hp engine, he ran 28 pisdt Solex carbs (in a 55 oval window).

That looks great! Glossy or Flat would have looked excellent either way. Very reminiscent of the "Chezoom" I like yours execution better, the Chezoom looked like it arched up off of the pavement.

That Dick Tracy '36 looks nice like all of your models, funny thing you can even see in the pictures the improvements in paint and polishing from the eighties and nineties until now. Don't get me wrong your paint is way above average, it gives it more of a daily driver look. Since you do "Factory Stock" another way to use the '36 frame and flathead would be to build up the frame as a display like they used to do for the auto shows and or large dealer display. I've seen old pictures of the thirty's and forty's displays that look like they would make an interesting subject for the right modeler. Hint. Hint...

As always John your work is impeccable, I always learn something when I watch how you construct your masterpieces. You never cease to amaze or impress me with your work, that's sayin' a lot too, I've been around the block once or twice!!!

That's different! Had a '36 Dodge parked next to us a couple years ago at a car show, the grill sure didn't look like a Deuce grill shell! Looks interesting though, and you thought adding a Deuce Grill Shell to trucksters and high buck rat rods was a new idea. Not!!! Should look pretty good with whatever body you settle on, '39 Chevy should work out even if you don't straighten the slanted pillars.

Hey Bernard, Thanks for the info on Alterd States / Chuck Mier's eBay I.D. is oldmandowntheroad Just the other day I was. Looking at the Surfer's Dragster Body, being that it is a resin piece I was a tad bit leery of buying from an unknown source. Chuck really doesn't let his potential eBay buyers know that he is the guy who is casting the products. I thought that he was just someone unloading a bunch of unknown resin stuff so I didn't pull the trigger and buy it. Guess I'll have to go back and look again.

I thought it was just me, that body looks a little thick through the belt line, first I thought it was the side pipes. Then I looked closer, too thick put that thing on a diet!

Ivan, That's what I thought when you said Acrylic Paint. The Acrylic thinner that I use is an alcohol base to it, which is what I would imagine is in most. All I ever use when spraying Acrylics through my airbrushes is a particle or dust mask. I don't use a respirator unless I'm shooting lacquer thinner or hotter. The alcohol in he acrylic thinner is rubbing alcohol, so it isn't something that is going to get you looped from the fumes. Unless you are shooting to the point that there is more paint fumes than oxygen in the room there should be little to no issue. You certain that you are not sensitive to paint? Some people are or do get to the point they are. 1.) Work on venting the area you are spraying paint in to get good air exchange without causing drafts which could cause paint drift. 2.) Use gloves to protect your skin from paint and alcohol drying your skin out. 3.) Work on setting up some sort of paint booth which draws the fumes out of the room.

That had to have been a mistake, I think I paid a a little under $200 for that same spray booth. Great booth.

Got the Slingster Front Axle the other day, it took a little over two weeks from the time of request to the replacement arriving I'm my mail box. That's customer service as it should be, both in speedy replacement and for standing behind their product. Thank you Revell!!!

Is this an acrylic lacquer, acrylic enamel or just straight acrylic paint? What are you using for thinner, alcohol base or is it solvent based? The issue sounds like it could be the thinner you are using? I looked up MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for Gunze Sangyo Paints, they evidently don't or won't publish them. Your respirator issue could be related to the filter not being rated for the type material you are spraying. See the link for 3M Filter cartridges below. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UF6EVsSyXTtOXMEm8TEEVtQEVs6EVs6EVs6E666666--&fn=Respiratory%20Selector%20V5.pdf Other respirator issues can be traced to fitment issues. Do you have a beard? When you close off the filter cartridge with the palms of your hands and breath in are you sucking in air or does the respirator body suck in like it's supposed to? If you are sucking air the respirator is too large for your facial structure, get fitted for a smaller filter. Are the rubber exhaust vents working properly, they can become twisted to the point you are drawing outside air through the exhaust. If you are spraying acrylic (water base) then a particulate mask could be used as the alcohol in most acrylic thinners isn't that harmful in the amount that you are being exposed to. Another clue you mention is that the paint still has an odor after a month of curing, most paints gas out sooner than that. There could even be some chemical sensitivity issue going on. Ivan, do you by chance have allergies? Some people with allergies have a difficult time working around or with chemicals and paints in general. I am not familiar at all with the type paint that you are spraying, I am however familiar with respirator use and protecting myself from most types of paints. I've also used respirators from the basic cartridge filter types up to the supplied air respirators for my job to mitigate exposure from lead, paint and other chemicals. Could someone with experience with the Gunze paints chime in. Interested in your experience with this paint. Do we have any Auto Body Painters who might have any ideas?

Agree with the variegated leaf, but use the leaf "size" (adhesive) recommended by the manufacturer plus their clear sealer. I think I've seen the Kits in Michael's and Hobby Lobby with the size and sealer in them. If you want a higher grade, as in for more money, variegated leaf, size and sealer look for it in a sign supply shop. One Shot makes Gilding supplies, the leaf is thinner at sign suppliers as well.

With really light washes of the colors mentioned. Build up slowly. Dry each wash so that you don't go overboard. Work light to dark, one color at a time, mixing multiple colors makes for a muddy wash. Wou could even "stipple" the wash on using a quill pen or other fine tip that will hold a small amount of paint. Wash refers to diluting the paint to a near transparent state and applying in small amounts. It can be Don with enamels by thinning them to near clear which will give a slightly granulated effect. The more dilution you have with the paint the more distance between the pigment particles. It isn't hard to get it to work. Best part is if you don't like the effect you can remove it either by stripping the whole thing or working down in layers with a Qtip slightly dampened with thinner, almost dry. A second method could be used either with the wash or alone from the wash would be dusting with Artist's Chalks, which has been covered here and on other boards tutorials. Seal the Artists Chalks with a workable Artists Fixative. Most any weathering technique could be used to repliccate a burned header paint effect. Most Race Cars are not allowed to rust up, sponsors don't like the look. The weathering would be what took place from a few trips down the quarter mile in this case, something that is slightly burnt, charred or even just dis-colored.