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Carl, for a ready made Mahl Stick you can coma couple of ways. First as alluded to is the kids baton, I think they still sell them, it is just about the right size, I've even seen a couple in work in the sign business. Two, is the ready made Mahl Stick, Dick Blick sells one, http://www.dickblick.com/products/excel-3-section-mahl-stick/ the wood stick is way over priced. I actually have one similar to that aluminum three piece Mahl Stick. The wood stick shows one in use, they definitely will steady your hand, provide both leverage and add to what strength you are working with. I would whole heartedly recommend the use of a Mahl Stick, I would also recommend the longer stick as well, with the longer 30" stick the end is rested in the crook of the elbow allowing the working hand to move up and down the stick. Over the years I've seen all kinds of Mahl Sticks, the simplest being 5/8 - 3/4" dowel with wadded ball across the end, the trick being making the ball end as non-skid as you can.

Went our first Hobby Lobby today. Federal Way Washington. We found the staff to be nice, my wife stocked up on scrap booking stuff, I found everything from drawing, painting (fine art), hobby and model stuff. This one is forty five minutes away, we have one opening later this month a half hour away. It's nice, it has some of the stuff I normally get, but it isn't a local Hobby Shop. That said, we' ll go back.

Those came out really sharp, thanks for sharing.

graph One Shot will not flow through a Rapidograph Technical Pen, they are made to flow illustration ink only. They are somewhat of a pain to clean with ink, I cannot even begin to imagine cleaning enamel paint out of one. I have uses some of the liquid watercolor paints in them, but at $20 plus per pen I wouldn't feed any other paint through it. They don't like India ink either it's too grainy and tends to plug up then pen nibs. I gave a rather long winded but accurate answer to someone asking almost the same question here. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75616&hl= This was essentially the same question you are asking. For model car leer rearing almost any enamel brush type paint will work, the little Testers jars are about the same consistency as One Shot, Ronan, Little Daddy Roth striping and lettering paints. There are a few old Signwritters and Stripers that hang around here, if you ask nice we could provide a little guidance. While you are looking up lettering fonts look up "Snap" it is the quick informal lettering style used on a lot of race cars and signs. At least that's the name I've always heard that style referred to. There are tons of font styles on the Net, you should have no problem finding more than you need out there. For what you are lettering you might look at a "Rigger" watercolor brush, cutting the tip as described in the other post. Riggers are named so because they are used by watercolor artists to paint ships rigging. Hope this helps you get where you want to go.

Awesome Deuce, believable engineering throughout the model. Straight out of the early 60's with today's building techniques. Looks like you could hop in and cruise!

Very nice indeed! Very plausible, looks like an "Old Lady car" that someone got ahold of and turned into a sleeper. Gray Baskerville and a few other Hot Rod writers used to call them an "Uncle Daniel", they also called well preserved stockers that too. Sort of the best of both worlds a car that looks like stock yet goes like stink! Did I mention that I really like your model! It's cool. There's an older guy who shows up at the local A & W Cruise night who almost specializes in sleepers. He's had a '57 Olds with the J2 Rocket Motor it still had the stock upholstery covered by clear vinyl seat covers, an almost everything delete '55 Fairlane with 428 Super Cobra Jet, currently has a sorta faded green 61 Biscane with dog dish hubcaps, duel 4 barrel 409 in it that was supposed to have come out of a "well known" California Super Stocker sometime in the early '70's. One of those guys you look at who doesn't look like a car guy at all or like he would have the money to play the car game at the level he does. All his cars are quiet almost sedate sounding. Sleepers are and will always be cool! Whenever I drive my Cooper-ized Mini to a cruise night he almost always parks by me and talks my leg off about racing Minis in the '60's, he knows what he's talking about too. He always tells me that a real Mini Cooper is the Fastest Ten Feet Money Can Buy!

Very Nice

If you are using a soft enough aluminum alloy, 5052 (non-heat treatable, work hardens) or 6061 - 0 condition (not heat treated) try cutting the strips and burnishing them with drill rod or the smooth end of a drill against a smooth almost polished flat steel surface. Doing so will be like running the strips through a set of rollers. Alternate side to side, as in work one side, flip work the other and repeat until the aluminum strip is flat. Alternatively you could try to find a 2024 T4, 6061 T4 or T6 or 7075 T6 in thin sheets 0.005 - 0.010. You might have trouble finding this thin though. Try metals depot. Another alternative would be steel shim stock which is easy to find in thin sheet and or strip form, try McMaster Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com He steel shim stock will be harder to work but it can be worked the same way as the aluminum strip. Worked in a tooling shop for a short time and got to watch some amazing stuff being made almost out of thin air! Here would be one source. http://www.metalsdepot.com

http://sgrallying.blogspot.com/2013/05/jrs-dragster-one-bad-hombre.html First thing I thought when I saw these pictures was Slingster, either use the paint scheme on the Bantam body or get really ambitious and cut and paste a '32 Ford Vicky body and make your own. I know that I have at least one old Small Pages article on how to cut up a Bantam Sedan up to make something similar to te Slingster body, it would be a whole lot of cutting to do though. When I saw the new Slingster for the first time I thought Fuel Coupe in all sorts of variations. This just reinforces that idea.

I like your idea, it preserves the past, honors Mike's Dad's work and gives a glimpse to what he was thinking when he originally built it. It's the best of both worlds, using the parts in a current model, preserving them for display, and the story behind them. I just might do something like this with some of my Uncle's model parts. FYI - My Uncle bought me my first model, took me with him to the Drags for the first time, Auto Show in Seattle... I guess that's the reason I am big on honoring his memory.

I like it wheels and all, they look a whole lot better than the 14 inch Crager SS wheels did. Used to see one quite similar to this one auto crossing, the guy had a Empi camber compensator on the back, instead of the swing axle climb it would squat down and slide through the corners. You nailed the stance for a hot street buggy too, used to see ones like yours in Hot VW's magazine in the late 70's and earl 80's. Lots of them had wide five Centerlines too.

Nice 510, a good friend has one. He has the BRE book on how to build one, at last count he has three engines for it in various stages of tune from hot street, prepped auto cross and full Banzai (not quite grenade motor). We like to do a little street burning through twisty roads and stuff his 510 against my Mini. I can normally take him through the corners, he gets his chance in the strait stuff! All in good fun! Ok back to your 510, like the color, like the fact that you used restraint in not turning it into a cookie cutter (Honda) late model tuner car. Tuner cars are OK, but a 510 predates the Tuners by a few decades, so it really looks better in the stock kit form. I remember the first one that I built, think I was like in Jr. High, I wasn't impressed with the multi-piece body. Now that I've had a few mechanical engineering college class or two, I recognize it as a really great piece of tool engineering. I always wondered if Revell built the body that way so they could do a stock 510 by just changing the side panels.

I wouldn't change a thing, use it as part of a diorama. If you want to make a pickup, roadster pickup or rat rod get another kit and build it without those parts. I would urge you to use restraint and thought before using these parts, they are only original once. It sounds as if there is some sentimental attachment as well. The other thing I see is it is the original black plastic, that series was a pain to paint, the black always showed through everything. I have some of my Uncle's model stuff from when he was a kid, most are parts like this. I have restored a few of the complete or near complete models and given them to my Mom, aunt and Grandmother; just cleaned them up and put them back together as he did. My Uncle was killed by a drunk driver in 1970, so they are part of his legacy that I really feel I have no right to change. For that reason I haven't really even used but a few parts from the box for special projects. I would bet here are others who are trusted with parts and kits like these with similar feelings. Yeah it's only plastic, it's also a connection to the past where that person built something with their hands, a window into their mind at the time they built it.

As Art referred to engine turning on Gold Leaf it's now done with velveteen over a dowel rod. Most signwriters I know are good enough they can freehand it! You might be able to do this with BMF, not sure it's soft enough though.

Suggest taking a look at either MiniWorld. http://www.miniworld.co.uk/magazine or Mini http://www.minimag.co.uk magazines websites. You will find that the wheel type you are thinking about running isn't plausible. They would cause suspension failure in short order. Now if you are building a "Tuner" type Mini, a Honda VTec can and does fit into a Mini with significant modifications. Search VTec Mini. The Sportspack wheel arches are normally run with this set up, a 13 inch Alloy wheel is the fitment of choice normally in one of the Mini Lite variations. That would even be on the "Wild" Custom Mini. There are arches which may cover a wheel such as you are proposing, they take away from the Mini's character, search Huffaker Mini, they take up the complete quarters front and rear. They are normally not found on a streetable Mini. I've seen all sorts of things done with Mini's over the dozen years I've owned a Classic Mini, what you are proposing for wheel fitment isn't done, it would require nearly a whole uprated front suspension, lots of body and structural modifications to work, well beyond Tuner modifications. Then again it's your model...

Just received my order from BNL today, it was placed on February 23, very quick turnaround for any resin caster in my book. A quick examination of the parts looks like they are very crisp, sharp lines where there are supposed to be sharp lines and nice round edges where they are meant to be. There is very little if any flash, what there is will easily clean up with a light sanding before use. Ben's Nailhead Buick engine is very nice too,, the fine detailing is not lost in the casting. The other small block Chevrolet stuff, heads, intakes, air cleaners and aftermarket based valve covers are equally as nice. I had looked at BNL's stuff a while ago, wasn't sure about dealing with Ben as I had never heard anything about BNL; after checking out this thread earlier I am glad I took the "chance" and bought his stuff, it's nice. Also, Thanks to those who recommended Ben's stuff, we need more honest recommendations like this. We also need the Hack Alerts when someone is passing off junk. So when you deal with one of the aftermarket sellers let others know about your dealings went and the product quality.

Maybe the best at their discipline as other drivers are at their own. It is truly mixing apples and oranges so to speak, they all race under and in differing conditions. I've heard the same gripe for years, the Drag Racers only go straight, NASCAR and Oval Racers only turn left... For early every form of racing there's always someone who pipes up with a yes but argument that one form does more and better than the other. Yes but how fast have you gone and not crashed. Yes but how fast can you go and turn left. Yes but how fast can you go on dirt and turn left. Yes but how fast can you go and turn right and left. How fast can you go throughout the desert flying through the air half the time. Yes. But how fast can you go on two wheels. What about ice racers. Formula One. Kart. Go Karts. Funny Cars. Sprint Cars..... Salt Flats.... Pinewood Derby...Blah.... Blah..... They all have some sort of talent or they wouldn't be there.

Carl, Sorry to hear this. I sort of understand what you're going through. I'm sort of a gimp too. Over thirty years ago I had a severe bruise and a cut to my right ulnar nerve (that's your Funny Bone on the elbow) it affects half my middle, ring and little fingers with both numbness and dexterity issues as well as part of my arm elbow down, I'm right handed for the most part. I know it is not the same issue as what you are going through right now; you learn to cope, you learn to do things differently, you learn to work with what you've got. Hopefully you learn to accept what you've been dealt with grace and humor; I know I laugh at some of the goofy stuff that've happened or happen to me as a result of my weird sense of feeling. My fingers want to draw up towards the palm and my wrist wants to curl under slightly when tired; I was at work doing something with a contractor who asked if I was trying to throw gang signs or something! I guess to someone who didn't know it does look something weird like that. I've learned to laugh about goofy stuff like that. What else can you do! About the foil. I remember seeing a guy cutting vinyl for a sign using an xacto knife that had a spacer between two blades in one handle, the strips were about 1/16 +\- wide. I will assume that he had to widen the slot in the collet that holds the blade into the handle to get the blades and spacer into it. Ok now that we've got the set up; here's the application. Use the thicker adhesive backed metal tape, I think it's sold as muffler repair tape. Next use a metal ruler which is either held by hand or by clamp to a thin board, sand which the metal tape between and cut the strips. Could also be done with a single blade too, more consistent with two blades. You could use this method to cut the adhesive backed Mylar as well. Both products are more forgiving than the BMF, both give a chrome like result. Edited for spelling issue not caught by iPad.

We have purchased the last five vehicles for cash, three were new. In all cases the dealer knocked a significant amount of money off of the purchase price for cash in hand. You have to go in armed to the teeth with as much information if not more than the salesperson. We normally tag team them to death, we've walked out and had them call us at home agreeing to our terms more than once. One time we did this and went to another dealer the same day, getting a better price, the first dealer called and hung up rather disappointed. We've also sold what would be our trade in on our own a couple of times getting even better deals, when you take the trade in out of the picture you take away a lot of the dealer's power over the deal. They can't underpay you for what's not on sale which is one of their favorite tricks. Another thing to consider is the cheapest car is the one you already own, maybe fixing up the car already in your driveway might make a whole lot more sense than going into hock for a new one. Anyone can get themselves into the pay cash mode of buying vehicles. The way we have done it is first you hang onto your paid for car. Next set a dollar amount you are willing to part with for your next car. Get yourself an interest payment book and pay your car savings account that payment every month as you would the bank or finance company. Once you purchase your vehicle start replenishing the fund again. It's not easy, and it takes dedication to not paying someone else interest on your hard earned cash. Once you start doing deals this way you will never want to go back. We've started doing all our bigger purchases this way

Why is is that some people feel the need to post topics that they know from the start are going to be incendiary? Recent one started just this morning. One a week or two ago... Sort of like loaded car names like Edsel, Corvair, Pinto (that one was literally incendiary), Yugo... everyone has some sort of negative comment about each, plus those who just love them. Don't understand it sometimes when people in general start a conversation they already know the answer to just to get a rise out of the other(s). Always thought that this was a forum of individuals brought together by the love of building and enjoying our model cars versus lengthy discussions of lexicology. Then again maybe I'm just wrong again. I am not attacking any individual(s), just saying these discussions are very counter productive. We are all for the most part adults here. This topic was not brought up to start a wizzing match so don't make it one. Note: I posted this in general because most of the time these discussions are posted in general, not the "Off Topic Lounge".

Nice model! Great paint. Job well done! That style of top is called a "Carson Top" they became so popular and copied that they were known in generic terms by (I think) a shortened version of the shop's name who first made them. They were a fixed top which did no longer operated as a convertible top. Like most all great Custom Trends they originated in Southern California.

rat rod, how about a junk yard on wheels. I wouldn't put their owners / drivers in with Hot Rodders, they are more like wanna be's without the patience to save a few bucks to get into something that could be assembled with time, talent, patience and know how into a nice starter Hot Rod. I have seen some pretty nice safe starter Hot Rods owned and built by some young guys and gals. For the most part all one has to do is befriend one or two of those Old Farts and actually listen to some of their knowledge gained for the most part by doing it. Lots of the Old Guys are really happy to teach a Young Guy how to do things right, a lot of them have learned by their own failures how to do it right. I would also bunch all of those who drive and enjoy their Hopped Up Old Cars whether they be a shiny billet laden jewel or a a sweet traditional Hot Rod as Hot Rodders. They are all joined by the love and appreciation of their old cars, lots of the Old Guys with the high dollar cars appreciate the Traditional Hot Rods...

Correct, as measured from the stock location. Any setback up to the 10% of wheelbase would increase the height! simple Trig proves that true. Just a peruse through the NGRA website is what I remember seeing at the Drags here in western Washington as a kid, (I started going to the Drags with my uncles at about 7 or 8 in '63) there were all kinds of Gassers. '49 - 54, 55 - '57+ Chevs and Fords, Willys, Henry J's, '32 - '40 Cevs, Fords, an occasional Mopar, Anglias and Austins and even VW's showed up soon after. The Big Name guys made their way through Seattle/Kent/Pacific Raceway, occasionally Puyallup and Bremerton Raceways. Lots of cool cars! Suggest anyone remotely interested in building Gassers pick up a copy of "Gasser Wars" Drag Racing's Street Classes: 1955 - 1968. By Larry Davis, Car Tech Books it is well worth the money.

Love those wheels! The first "Cal Look" edition of Hot VW's shows up on eBay every once in a while, great reference material. Never found or could afford a set of BRMs for my oval window Cal Look Bug. I settled for chrome steel wheels 15 X4-1/2 & 5-1/2 running topper with genuine 356 hubcaps running on Perelli 135's front and 185's rear. Lots of guys ran that same combination which looked clean and cool. Fun little car got lots of complements.

Ooh, how Ed Roth-esk can you get! I like the Merc' a lot too!!