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Excuse me did I say that you were guilty of character assignation there is a bit if it going back and forth so yes now I have said it! What I am saying is that it looks totally stupid slinging mud at each other like a couple if five year olds. If you want to debate whether the Blue Bandito or any other Monogram tooling is going to be restored have at it, just leave the petty name calling and posturing out of it! This is a modeling forum after all not "Meet the DePressed!" I've wandered off of more than one forum over the childish sandbox arguments that always seem to go on and on. How is this attracting new blood to this forum when newbies see that people can't even get along within a hobby that they all enjoy? Really, if you want to duke it out you should take this "discussion" to a sidebar and argue through your mailboxes PM each other! There was a whole lot of good information here until the flaming started. So chill out everyone, take a walk around the block and cool off.

Nice car in spite of the drama TV show, don't watch any of the "reality" TV car shows anymore with the exception of anything Chip Foose is on. Even if Chip didn't do and come up with some amazing stuff, I just like him as a person, actually met him once, he makes you feel like you are on the same level as he is. He asked me about my "Cool Car" I told him about my Mini Cooper, his eyes lit up as he listened. He's just a nice guy who happens to love cars. Oops that's almost a hijack sorry. Back to the topic on hand. Model A coupes are one of my favorites you can do so much with one to make it unique, or in this case make it a doorway to our Hot Rodding roots. There is a seller on eBay who is selling a few parts from the Monogram '30 phaeton, I've bought from them befor and I think they have a Deuce grill shell. Seller is Propsplus worth a look at their resin which is generally pretty crispy.

http://www.hobbyshipper.com/cgi-bin/wsr600p?V=RMX&I=MONS4020 Apparently the Blue Bandito is still available from Revellogram. I have to agree with jb here, this seems to be the most fact based statement posted to this thread lately. (Which I re-read through including the painful arguing.) Has the "Tiff" which has erupted here been handled in a civil manor, well no probably not. I highly disagree with the character assassination or nearing character assassination which seems to be going on here. If you can't make a constructive point, then don't including don't attack the other person. It's ok to debate ideas but when you have to argue about people that's just sorta ridiculous isn't it? Hops off soapbox and gets back to working on current model...

Nice project Gary. Building models for others is a real rewarding experience. Recently did a couple of models (Revell Mother's Worry) for my (adult) nephew. He love them, I think doing those two models was one of the more rewarding experiences I've had building models. Even surpasses winning the Jr. hi and County, State Fair model contests when I was a young teen. One of those deals that if I knew the recipient would treat the model with the respect all that work deserves, I would give more of my work away. The other one that was/is really rewarding my Pastor was loaned a '69 Corvette Stingray to drive around for a couple of weeks after he and his wife were married. He's a car and motorcycle guy and talks about driving that 'Vette all the time. I did some sly research, talking to him found out the color, option group (or close to it), Big Block car, a and other things from his wife. I built a nice replica of the 'Vette and gave it to him for his Birthday! For once he was rather speechless, I loved it. I gave it to him in a plastic case to keep the dust off of it, he had on other one of our friends build a glass and wood presentation case, so it's now prominently displayed in his office.

I'm really looking for those wheels, with the cool knockoffs, tires would be a huge bonus.

Did the wheels and tires from Monogram's Orange Hauler ever come in any other kit? - or - Has anyone of the Resin Caster's Re-Popped the Orange Hauler's Wheels and Tires in Resin?

I open them when I get home, put tires and glass into separate ziplock bags, then tape the box shut. When the model goes into work its transferred to a clear plastic (Sterlite [sp])shoebox that way the box and box art / illustrations and pictures are readily available for reference. Another bonus of the plastic shoebox is its less likely to lose a part even in a corner like the original cardboard has done to me once or twice over the years.

Same here, I place the glass and tires in separate ziplock bags for the same reason. I bought two of the Slingster Dragsters when it first came out, I opened the first and it was 100% A-OK, the second not so much by just one part. The front axle was bent at a 45 degree angle, perfect chrome, still bent! I got on Revell's website and had a new axle in hand within a month or so, no issues, no hassles just a new axle. I've had kits in the past which had a tire, whole glass sprue and a few other odds and ends from Johan, AMT, Monogram, Revell. So I'm really glad that Revell has replaced parts for me in the past for Slingster axle and New Beetle Glass, the NB was purchased off of eBay, seller wouldn't take it back and it was out of production so I expected to end up with nothing, received the whole glass sprue in three weeks. Pretty amazed at that turn around especially when they weren't currently producing the kit. I was honest with them and told them where I got the kit and that it was unopened factory sealed when received.

Great paint, probably the best "multi-part" body Ranchero I've seen. Overall good job!

"A" Really nice job on that one, color combo looks great, not overly glossy just like a stocker should look.

The answer to your question is, the battery is located in the boot (trunk) to the right of the spare tire well, rectangular box below the boot floor on driver's side on a RHD Mini. This would hold true for all Classic Mini Saloons from 1959 thru 2000, including the Clubman. not entirely certain on the Traveler or the Mini Truck. Hope this helps.

The number one thing that stalls me has got to be my work schedule, as I "earn" more responsibility it means many times that major overtime is going to hit my fan! Lately I have been using this time as research, rendering, parts gathering and getting all the needed materials lined up to begin the project model. It absolutely drives me nuts to get to a point on a model only to realize that I didn't get all the stuff needed to finish the job. Being organized as an Engineer naturally carries over to hobby stuff as well, I list out all the assembly steps, including painting processes, crossing each step as its completed. I find that when I have to shelve a project due to time or in some cases requests to do paint work, lettering, striping on someone else' ride or even when someone requests a model for themselves or a gift or else it's work getting in the way. I find that since I have started being "overly" organized with projects that I am finishing more, even those ones that seem possessed! The ones you end up painting several times because it slipped and fell on the floor , maybe looks like a dustpan got poured over it!! I had one that I sat on the kitchen table to get my wife's oppinion and my empty thermos sitting across the table somehow flew,across the table on its own and fell on the hood nearly destroying the whole front end in the process. Lucky it went bact together better than it did the first time. Those types of incidents would have been models I would have shelved before, for some reason I have more patience to pick'em up and finish the project. There are those few that still go to the "back of the line" and get picked up "whenever". I have to remind myself that I'm doing this to relax, so just take a deep breath and refocus.

Thought that Greg was actually steering this back on topic of "Resto Rods" again, which none of that "Tooner" phart can wanna be cars remotely qualify as. The real Resto Rod movement was begun in the late 60's and early 70's before the Fat Fendered cars became popular. If you peruse bact to some of the magazines of the day like Rod & Custom befor it went under, Rod Action, Street Rodder, and even Hot Rod. You would see what the real Resto Rod cars were about, many of them being 20's and 30''s cars toss in a few 40's Chevs, Buicks, Caddys, Chryslers, Dodges. Mostly big cars with newer engine and drivetrain swapped in from wrecking yard donors. Hot Rod had Gray Baskerville with his daily driver 32 Ford Roadster, Rod Action had "Walter P Chrysler" mid forties Chrysler (Limo if I remember right). Most Resto Rods were built for comfortable Crusing, back when Street (Is) Was Neat people actually drove their Hot Rods on a daily basis. Lots of these Resto Rods were daily drivers, some even family cars. All of this was before the "Power Tour" and "Pro Street" was ever thunk up! Long before the televised entertainment auctions popped up for the guys with more money than brains to "buy" into the Hot Rod Scene. When I think of the term Resto Rod the original Resto Rods are what I think of, mildly modified drivers which retain the flavor, appeal and appearance of the original. There is a huge difference in what is currently being passed off as a Resto Rod. Mostly sold by many of those involved in the entertainment auction industry as a way to pass off poorly conceived and sometimes poorly modified nostalgic garbage no one in their right mind would have bought 25 - 30 years ago. In part this is probably one of the number two reasons, number one being the Boyd Caused Billet Craze that you see a major resurgence of the "Traditional Hot Rod". Other reasons would probably be rat rods, Pro Street, Pro Fairgrounds trends many of which were no advancement of "Car Culture". In spite of this there is no reason to become a bunch of Zellots and bolt counters, if you want that just try the "Brit Car Crowd"!!! They'll harden you real quick especially to the subject of modifying your Brit Car, it's almost as if you own a Brit Car by proxy sometimes! In spite of that aspect I still love and drive my '73 Mini Cooper like it was meant to be driven! When I see loong threads like this one go so far off topic, 8 pages so far, I pity the poor horse battered and bruised... I get enough flack from the full size car crowd, I come here to relax and discuss building quality models! Remember why we're here.

Still having upload issues on PC, must be a settings thing. Uploaded on iPad, that's a test of reflexes, got to be quick! Have to experiment more with PC.

OK, I am indeed having issues with uploading from photobucket could someone please give me a little shove in the right direction, I searched high and low, even used Bill's Amazing Searching Method. Works great by the way Bill but I still cannot find the directions for uploading pix!! Tried the attached Links and they work, no pix so until I get this pix thing figured out that's going to have to do until tomorrow afternoon. (Thank you for putting up with my Sunday evening obtuseness!!)

Hopefully these upload OK. Built these two Big Daddy Ed Roth Mother's Worry for my nephew, starting in 2013. Then I went on nights for two plus years just after finishing the Original out of a really crusty box 1963 Yellow version, received as a gift from a friend found while cleaning out an old garage. My premise was what would it look like with an original 1963 Mother's Worry with for the most part 60's techniques applied yellow Krylon Short Cuts enamel paint; for the most part I did just that. Exceptions being engine wiring, and the use of acrylic paints to paint the figure, plus a scrap of BMF. The second Pearl Lime Mother's Worry 2013 a 50 years later Version started out as a 1996 reissue purchased off of eBay and begun in 2013. The 2013 Version would be built like we build our models today, Resin Front Axle, Scratch-built Quick-change Rear End, Engine has heads and blower from Pontiac 389 Original AMT '36 Ford (?) (From my late uncle's model parts). Flocked interior, P.E. Gauges on a Scratch-built Dash, Shifter is aluminum tubing. Pick Up bed from parts box, stock gas tank with scratched brackets and lid, engine is wired and detailed (sorta) Paint is Createx Pearl Lime, Future Acrylic over it, polished with Novus 1, 2 & 3. All Chromed extra parts were stripped primed and painted with Lowe's Valspar Gloss Black and Valspar Chrome Silver. The Red Shirt Caricature is from an original Big Daddy Ed Roth Business Card, printed red on gray. I decided to colorized the picture when I painted it on the back. The gift was received with smiles, a heartfelt Thank you, immediately placed in his curio cabinet in a prominent location. Its when you get a big bear hug from a full grown guy that makes all the work done on something like this that makes it worth all the time and effort put into a model like this. JB - Recognize the Moon Tank sticker, thanks for posting printed on thinned photo paper and tacky glued to tank over coated with Future Acrylic.

Now that I have your attention. What size to you resize pictures to for posting on the Forum so that they come out as a picture not a thumbnail sized picture?

Tim, I remember that Car from the first time around. Still a beauty! Gotta wonder if those "Airliner Decals" are still around? They sure fit in with the graphics that were being used about that time. Taught me to look around at other stuff with a different eye especially when it could be converted for use on a model car.

I am getting similar results using. Duplicolor Primer + Valspar Gloss Black + Valspar Chrome Silver. (The one with the Chrome Cap). I've been doing all of the three right out of the Rattle Cans! So clean up is zero! This is nearly as good and in some cases better than Alclad II, the only drawback to this system is that it is Enamel so it takes longer to cure out. I have tried curing in the food dehydrator and curing on its own and there seems to be no difference in shine. Like Alcad the Black Base has to be really glossy to get the Chrome Silver to Gloss like Chrome. I haven't tried any other silver or black after the Valspar, I actually figured this combo out by accident painting some Silver and Gold colored PVC Banner poles for a church Kids Christmas Pagent, the Gold came out really shiny too and the Silver like Chrome. I used the Valspar because there is a Lowes about a mile and a half from the house and that's what they carry for cheap paint. I wasn't really even trying for gleaming Gold and Silver, just wanted a good base to lay down the metallics. Once it cures out it stands up fairly good to handling with very little rub off or dulling from rub off.

I've got the Paasche HSSB 22-16 booth and am happy with it too, used cheap LED strip lights on the sides works well. Picked mine up at Coast Airbrush a while ago when I was in Southern California, no idea what the freight would have been, it's all sheet metal so it's heavy package. Don't think Coast carries the Pace Booths or not, this was the one Dave Monnig recommended for the type of stuff I paint.

I've stood next to the Maroon '40 it is a "Survivor" faithfully restored, very beautiful restoration, the proportions look very good in person.

JB Weld is capable of being drilled and tapped, I've never had a failure using it. I've used it to repair no structural engine block stuff like holes in the block or oil pan. Devon is another metalizer epoxy product that works well, it should for the price!

Normally prime almost everything that isn't painted a flat color as well. Always prime prior to painting with acrylics. Helps to seal in some of the funky colored styrene, except red. The best advice on primer ever passed on to me is matching the color of the primer with the color of the top coat. Gray = Gray to Black, Hotrod Black = Black, Red Oxide = Red and Oranges, White = Any light or Transparent Color really makes yellows, Reds, oranges Pop if you want a really bright topcoat try White Primer. Hotrod Black primer makes a pretty good flat black too.

My magnetic chassis jig cost me next to nothing since all the stuff used was leftover or being tossed from one project or another. The plate is .125 X 12 X 8 mild steel sheet, and a bunch of magnetic cabinet door latches, the kind with the magnet sandwiched between two peices of steel sheet metal. Works well can be squared up really easy. I have seen similar sized mild steel sheet for sale on eBay, the magnetic closures too. You can get the magnetic latches at Lowes or Home Depot or almost any hardware store. You can set yourself up with a magnetic chassis plate for $10 - $12 bucks or less versus whatever the commercial type ones sell for at Model Expo or similar suppliers. If you get the steel sheet to use as the baseplate just make sure you file the sharp edges down, when they saw it there will be sharp edges that will cut you, I filed all edges and all four corners.

That's exactly what I thought when I saw that. Another method of marbelizing can be done with soot from either a dirty candle flame or acetylene soot onto a wet coat of paint then clear coated either with a candy color or just straight clear. It's an old technique that pops up every once in a while, looks great when done right. First time I think I saw it explained was like in Model Car Science or Car Model magazine, they used a dirty sooty candle flame. I've heard it called marbelizing, Spyder Webbing or Sooting. Spyder webbing is not to be confused with cob webbing where un-reduced paint is used to make whe cobweb effect. Some of those old custom paint tricks are really cool to learn how to do yourself.