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Nice work, love your Minilites those are turning out as nice as your stuff always does. I always thought that body was a tad bit fat in the belt-line. Never owned a Vega, however I participated in putting small Block's in five or six of them. The mechanics at the VW Dealer I worked at would buy them when they were traded in, most were heavy smokers by the time they got traded, on like a "Push, Pull of Drag In " Promo that would get like a $1,000 Credit on a new VW. Those early skinny bumper Vega's were the easiest to do the conversion. I think the first two or three of them used the Harwood Kit, pretty well thought out kit had everything needed to put a Small Block in it including headers and radiator. Now Small Block Ford in a Pinto, another story all together, I don't remember the kit manufacturer but I do remember being way less than impressed! I still have nightmares about that one, owner probably does too, he wrapped it around a telephone pole in the rain, lucky he walked away from it. He left (abandoned) the Pinto motor which he had put a ton of money into, he had a pair of 40 Webber DCOE's hanging off the side, which ended up on a carb'd '76 Rabbit motor which ran better than second '77 or '78 Rabbit GTI. Gas Crunch Hot Rods!

Thanks Bill, I knew the Revell Bus didn't have them, was wondering if any of the Japanese kits had them. Shouldn't be too difficult to "carve" something up with the Dremel to make a reasonable facsimile.

Do any of the VW Bus / Type II models come with the Gear Reduction Axle Boxes? I sort of have a hair brained idea of using a pair on a Hot Rod to go even lower. One could feasibly set up a Ford Banjo Rear End with a set of gear reduction boxes flipped to drop another four inches. Not to mention the fact that these boxes had a variety of gear sets available and could essentially be set up in an overdrive like a Quick Change Rear could.

Looks like it seriously needs more tire, wheelie bars and playing around with weight disrribution. Awesome to have power but when you cannot put it to the ground without spinning the tires enough that it appears to be fouling out on nearly every run, that just might be a little issue! Then again back in my VW days nobody was running Turbo's either!

Try the light turning in to seat the needle, it gives a feeling to seating the needle in the tip. It's not just a poke and hey that's it!

You probably already had the needle in the airbrush body, then screwed the tip in right? My nephew loaned out his Iwata Eclipse, the borrower screwed the tip back ont the AB body with the tip tightened and down too far, when screwed into the body, the tip is pulled into the tapered needle and the tip is the least point of resistance and splits. I've also seen this with some other dual action air rushes, so it isn't that un common. Be careful when purchasing the cheapie airbrushes like the DeLuxe from Harbor Freight, I've heard that some have been assembled with cracked tips. BTW, the Harbor Freight DeLuxe for its price is a good "Learner Level" airbrush as long as you realize that you have to treat them even more carefully than the name brand airbrush, which is one reason I recommend them, if you get used to cleaning and handling a tool like a precision instrument it will last a whol lot of years, even some of the cheap ones, if you learn that on a cheap one you will treat a high dollar AB just as well. I've got more than five years on two DeLuxes, I use them for quick jobs which don't require great precision or hair fine lines, they can with practice; they're also a great back up AB, things happen to our good Airbrushes at times, I've got Iwata, Badger, Paasche, Thayer- Chandler Airbrushes yet carry a $15 AB in my kit on paying jobs. I know other Sign Painters, Pin Stripers who carry a little cheap insurance in their kit too! Back to the cracked tip, Ok I've always been taught by my Airbrushing Mentors and Tormentors alike to first seat the tip, then replace the needle into the tip. The needle is already in and loose when the tip is screwed into the AB body, once the tip is tightened, next gently seat the needle into the tip with a slight turning action until it is just snug, then tighten the thumb nut at the rear of the needle to tighten it. The action of the AB should keep things tight. If there is blow by repeat the seating of the needle until it is tight. It actually takes a bit of force to crack a tip like that,,, it happens!

I've got both issues, if you do any of the Ed Roth Monster or Hawk Weird Ohs models then you should find at least a tip or two. I liked them, wish that the would have continued them even as an occasional special issue. In regards to the Ed Roth stuff, they approached them from a figure modeler's standpoint versus where most model car builders would approach them from say a car accessory point of view. They sort of don't get the whole Ed Roth or Custom Car, Show Car Scene either, even more so the Von Dutch connections. To them and even some people within the Kustom Kulture scene they're just a coupl weird guys from the 60's! They were but some of the stuff they did was kind of Cool at the very least, takes me back to grade school, Jounior High days, it's like the whole Nostalgia Thing, even at that some people just jump on the wagon whether they get it or not!!

Scraping jaw off of floor, Most Impressive!

Sweet Red, AWB / Funny Car / Match Racer / Gasser depending on what track it ran on that weekend! Those are some sparse model kits a little extra work goes a long way.

Then that makes matters even worse, either using cheap (junk) parts or improper installation and maintenance of a Proven Suspension/Traction System maybe even both! Probably bought the bolts at Home Depot out of the bargain bin or did all the welding with a Harbor Freight $99 "Wire Feed" welder!

That would make a beautiful "Phantom" Pontiac 2 Door Cheiftan Wagon, I can visualize the stretched door with the door pillars moved back. I'm having a little difficulty seeing the rear set, maybe a longer single window or split the distance between the front and rear. Wouldn't take a ton of work to make a ton of difference in the looks either. I think I've seen renderings of either the more common Chevrolet wagon done as a two door, thinking late eighties to mid nineties Street Rodder magazine. Would really go with your tubbed chassis either Pro- Street / Touring setup, always wondered why GM never did any 2 Door 50's Wagons earlier than the '55 Chev.

I believe that's the tube Chrome Competition "T" Frame that shows up on eBay frequently. I think there is one on there right now. Those AMT Blueprinter Parts Pack boxes was what I was eluding to in a round about way. I really don't think anyone selling reissued Parts Packs (AMT or Revell) would need to invest big money for packaging, it's my belief that the parts sell themselves.

Modeling typically follows the current trends with Hot Rods, Bikes, Customs, Racing - Drags, Roundy Round... Take a look around what are the current Hot Rodding Trends (just as a for instance), Wow the look a whole lot like what guys were running back in the '60's when many of the Revell Custom Car Parts and AMT Parts Paks or Packs were first issued. Then look at what's happening in the Custom Bike Scene, yep they are trying Retro Ideas again from the same time period. Then there's Nostalgia Drags where they are looking at that same time period. Then there is the resurgence of Vintage Circle Track and or Restoration of Vintage Circle Track Cars from forties through 60's to 70's. Anything old is selling for gold, just go to the next swap meet and you'll see that in five minutes! Point is, Release as many of the original Parts Packs as possible. For as much as the Revell Custom Bikes sell for on eVilbay there is no doubt that those would sell. Have to agree with Ace, those Parts Engines were some of the best ever made, even those full chrome engines. Next time there is a Nailhead Buick or Hemi (there's one on right now) Revell Custom Car Parts engine on eBay watch what they sell for, if people are fighting for and paying $25 - $30 +/- for those there is little doubt that they would sell. Then there's the Dragmaster Dart and Kent Fuller (?) Dragster Frames which both go for silly dollars, if you're releasing those then there is the Dragster Parts, Hot Rod Parts, Wheels. Just using eBay sales as a gauge one can see which of the Parts Packs sell and which don't, like the Custom Grills and Weird Seats just to name a couple. There clearly is a market for those parts if guys are buying old brittle plastic originals for that kind of money, you think they might not pay a third or more of that for new plastic re-issues? I just bought a Revell Ivo Showboat for the Nailhead Buick engines alone off of eBay for less than a third of a single parts pack engine, (opened started kit with 4 untouched engines). Cr@p I'd buy them in a plain cardboard box, who cares what the packaging looks like!! Look at the AMT Reissued Drag Slicks, how fancy was that packaging, they sold for $12+ in the Hobby Shops. The Packaging doesn't have to be amazing, just enough to securely contain the parts and that's about it. Most of these Re-Issues are selling on word of mouth or memory of the original parts alone. If the molds exist for these parts, then it just might be worth a few test runs to see what the demand is for them. If eBay sales are any indication, there will be a demand.

In regards to no one stopping to render assistance. In the past two or three years on construction projects, we have had six or more serious accidents following the first when someone attempted to stop their vehicle and render assistance. The roadway here is at least four lane and turn lane, so it most likely is 35 MPH minimum speed limit possibly up to 50 MPH. Unless you have the training to work in live traffic it is better just calling the accident in, the likelihood of you getting injured is high. The other observation, someone pointed out that there may have been rust issues. Unless the Dart was "Restored by Rattle Can" any competent person, even a home builder would have taken care of such an issue. Where roads are heavily salted most vehicles are inspected to weed out the truely dangerous rust buckets. Heat treated U-Bolts rarely rust through, they break but don't fail because of rust. I couldn't tell how much leaf spring if any was attached to the axle, either the leaf spring broke in half, U-Bolt or brackets broke causing a chain reaction. Might be why people use some sort of Traction Aid to prevent excessive wheel hop, even good old Slapper Bars would help control wheel hop to an extent that major suspension failure isn't going to happen. Years ago a friend broke the control arm on his '67 GTO causing the axle to turn sideways under the car while doing a burnout, so it happens.

I would love to see a '26 / '27 T Coupe, Roadster or Roadster Pick Up a version of the model T that's long been missing. '28 / '29 Roadster or Coupe. Both in 1/25th Scale which would allow for parts interchangeability with the existing Model T and A kits. Thirties Mopars and Chevys would be nice to see as well. They could do some of the oddball stuff like Studebakers, Correct Henry J, Crosley, Jeeps which many hardcore modeler so might like to see, but probably wouldn't sell really well to the average casual modeler. Bring on the Custom Car Parts and Parts Packs - Good way to release '26 / '27 T bodies, frames, Hot Rod Parts either '60's period correct or new stuff. The Parts Packs would be a great "Minimal Investment" project using minimal new tooling effort versus the effort to creat complete new kits. New Custom Car Parts / Parts Packs might even be a bigger return for their money too in relation to the investment.

Martin. I think I finally remembered what looks of fish on the carb. If my memory is still working right, I think the "Firebreathing" 36 hp engine that powered my Oval Window had a flat iron 1/8" brace running from the bottom of the carb to either the top of the engine case at the seam or a stud sticking up from the case. This brace also had an ear (tab) sticking up from the carb base that the throttle return spring attached to. I'm sure that you can find a zillion pics of early 25 - 36 hp engines to compare to. I remember that the 40 hp engine did not have one, but when VW went to the Dual Port heads the center mounted carb manifolds had a similar brace because they used a slip fit for the center manifold into the two manifold ends and sealed with a rubber tube between them. You could duplicate this brace by cutting a strip of aluminum sheet or pop can bend and twist a little and you should have a cool looking bracket.

Martin, that's one of the best 25 - 36 hp engines I've seen in any scale. I know it's probably the kit solex carb but it really does lack some detail doesn't it? I can't exactly put my finger on it but something looks like it's missing off the front side, opposite of the float bowl. Other than that like I said before I think you nailed it including the bends on the fuel line, looks like this kit has some really good bones in the first place.

Back when those VW's were probably sectioned, Volkswagons were a dime a dozen, nothing special for the most part! You can't apply today's standards of coolness to what people did to cars in the past. Those of us who were actually seen driving a "Chick Car" endured a whole lot of cr@p flipped our way for driving something that didn't drain the wallet dry during the week so we could drive our "Real Car"on the weekend. I had a '57 Oval Window first running an 1835 and later a "Grenade" 2180 cc engine. The 48 IDA Webbers cost more than the whole car did (paid a princely sum of $100 for a running, driving 36 hp '57 Oval Window!) right around $600 for carbs alone. Still running a hot rodded Bug burned a lot less Supreme Gasoline than did my '65 GTO with a Radical SD 421. The only real downfall of the Bug Was it ate transaxles like they were going out of style! A few hours long distance with Gene Berg, in Southern California, solved most of the gear breakage issues, after that it just broke the cases! (I worked in the Service Department of a VW Dealership at the time so I got a deal on parts. When the Rabbits came out, if they didn't have to order it I usually didn't have to pay too much for anything.) The Oval Window was respectfully quick, but I still took a lot of Cr@p for driving it! I did some work on a friend's '55 Stubby Wagon, it actually drove and handled fairly well, even with a slightly warmed over 327 it wanted to lift the front end off the ground, when the 327 was "built" it would carry the front wheels through first and second gears. That thing was a blast to drive. Tri-Five Stubbys came about pretty much for one reason. No One, and I repeat, Absolutely No One would dare be seen driving a four door anything!! The four-door sedans and wagons went for about a third of the price of the more popular Two-Doors, Hard top, Posts or if you could find one Wagon. For the most part around the late '60's to mid 70's you would see more Stubby Tri-Five Chevys than anything else, maybe an occasional Chevy II wagons, Corvair Convertible and a small number of early VW vans, with the exception of the Corvair and VW's most started out as four doors. Build quality on all of these shortened rides ranged from absolutely crude to really well finished bodywork and painted really nicely. The Stubby '57 looks like it's running a straight axle, the nose high attitude was the "Hot Set Up" for drag racing in the early '60's. A high front end helped with weight transfer, with A/GS on the side is probably why it's running the extra altitude. That car wouldn't have been allowed to run in any of the Gas Classes, it would have to have ran in the Altered Classes.

OK, a closer look at your Grandpa's '34 Ford looks like he was running a pretty stock flathead V8. The "Cycle Fenders" we're probably made from spare tire cover rings as was the practice of the day. If I remember right the AMT '36 Ford had the spare tire cover. Wheels from what I see look like '40 or later steel wheels, only a stickler is going to tell that you didn't use the correct steel wheels, lots of kits have five lug wheels, look for the bias ply tires in older kits, if the base '34 Ford you are using has a stock version then you have a start. Rear fenders look like they could be bobbed stock fenders, Repro's and Miniatures has the '32 Ford Victoria Bobbed rear fenders, with a little tweaking could be made to look right, whichever fender you end up using make sure to thin the revealed edges so they don't appear so thick and plasticky. One item that might give you fits is the exposed radiator, maybe you can make the '34 radiator work. Hope this helps a little. I've presented a few models to family and friends, the smile that comes to their face and appreciation for your hard work make it more than worth it.

Wow! That is truely scary! I cannot imagine getting hit from any angle sitting on that thing especially if a lifted 4 X 4 was doing the hitting. I could see using something like this to bash around in the Boonies but driven on the street, not a chance! Looks like one of those Hot Rod or Car Craft articles where the premise of the story was to lower the 1/4 mile E.T. By losing weight, chop a little off here, chop a little more off there until all that's left is seat, frame, engine, transmission and rear end. Dang, it sure goes fast now!!!

Stero Plastic Shoe Boxes, clear plastic most of the smaller model boxes will fit inside, if they don't drop in I usually fold it flat and store on top then shut the whole thing in the shoe box. You can get them for as cheap as 2 for a $1 to $2 during the after Christmas storage sales. I started using them with projects storing everything in the shoe box from parts gathering through completion, for me it's a system that works well. If I need to set the model aside everything goes back into the shoe box, it takes a whole lot of discipline not to dip into that box and borrow parts! I don't store all my models in the shoe boxes, when I notice that a box is showing some wear and tear or crushing then it's time to go into a shoe box.

Being that your Grandfather's Coupe was not running a grill shell either a '33 or '34 Coupe is going to work. One of my Dad's Hot Rods was a '34 Coupe, however the only surviving picture clearly shows that he was running '33 grill she'll and hood sides. This was one of the last conversations Dad and I had. At that time he was in the first almost second stage of Alzheimer's Disease. He could remember things that happened in his youth like they were yesterday, but he couldn't remember yesterday at times like it ever happened. (Sad disease I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy! BTW if anyone has a family member who has Alzheimer's I am willing to speak to you.) My Dad told me that his older brother had a '33 Tudor and sorta backed it into an embankment the whole front end was super straight. His '34 Coupe was pretty straight from the firewall back, he was going to replace the sheetmetal as soon as he could, since the "Fender Laws" were enforced pretty strictly (in Washington State), so all four fenders stayed on the car. He swapped the entire '33 front end including the bumper onto his '34 adding to the mystery. Engine was a '40 truck block with a duel '94 set up on one of those 2 into 1 on a stock flathead intake adapters and some sort of headers with a 3/4 Cam and big valve springs, (probably stiffer spring to make the valves shut quicker.) It's fun to find out about the family Hot Rod history, even the run of the mill to them cars they used to drive are for the most part pretty special nowadays! I know I look back on those conversations with my Dad pretty fondly now that he's gone.

Tulip, as soon as I saw the paint I knew it was yours! Those are some beautiful '36's. For some reason your lineup reminds me of the Lindberg 1/32 Scale box art from the early '60's version.

Nice '49, reminds me of the '60's / '70's box art.

You did a great job on this one. Have to second the NW Deuce Days event, we've attended two of the shows definitely eye candy overload. My uncle showed his Flamed Gards Red '32 3W there a few times before he sold it, (that's how we found out about the show in the first place).