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So, is everyone looking for a '60 Ford Pick Up too? I've been looking for one for some time too! Looking for a SWB, I've found a few long bed's for reasonable prices, just didn't want to do the surgery to cut the bed down. I'm looking for one to replicate a buddy's first vehicle he drove to High School. For the prices I am seeing them go for I might just bite the bullet and find a resin copy, leave the originals to you guys who collect annual kits. No I really don't blame the sellers (for the most part) as I do the buyers with "I gotta win" mentality. We've almost all seen that one a time or two, "stupid is as stupid does"! Having been around the old car hobby nearly my whole life I've seen the same exact trends there as well. We saw it when all the Dot Commies made huge piles of money day trading buying up anything and everything for stupid prices, especially those who bought at the "televised entertainment auction services". In many ways those auction services have done more harm for the hobby than good. There is a direct correlation between the old car hobby to eBay auctions, both used to be traded for the most part either as casual sales or trades. Now, nearly everyone (myself included) has that out of control instant gratification gene where we need it right now. The only thing that's saved me a few times on eBay is the "proxy bid" where I bid on an "educated guess" standing firm at that price, going no higher. The one thing that you can't allow into the deal is emotions, if you do you're going to pay more than it's worth more often than not. It's a business deal after all, one where you're willing to pay for something. One where the seller is more than willing to take as much of your money as you're willing to part with for the privelage of winning the auction!

You have a variety of issues going on here. First, as mentioned is the distance of the brush to the model's surface. Second, it appears that you may have a under thinned paint, with nearly any paint the rule of thumb is consistency of milk. Third, air pressure may be too high, start at 20 PSI work up or down until you get the desired coverage. Four, I've used nail polish for a variety of projects, crafts, signs models..., they don't have any problem thinning with even cheap lacquer thinner. (lacquer thinner has acetone in it.). Thinning enamels with lacquer thinner is no problem, many sign painters, pinstripers, custom painters and modelers have been doing it for years, like back to the '50's and earlier. With lacquer the last coat should be the only wet coat, the rest should flash quickly. This will help prevent "burning" or "crazing" the plastic under the primer.

That's great that there are dull points available that the hobby user can get. For all the control on hypodermic needles intended to curb I.V. Drug use, it hasn't stopped or even slowed the tweekers a bit! A year or so ago I asked nearly the same question, looking for just the needle portion to use on a liquid cement bottle. I was met with a couple of really snide, uncalled for remarks questioning my legitimate use for the needles. There are often too many comedians on here, and other sites, it's easy to hide behind a keyboard and make cutting remarks at people you don't even know! I was able to find someone who was trusting enough to give me a pack of syringes and really small needles, I would have gladly paid for them. They work great for applying liquid cement, my intended use. Though the sharp point was a pain to use, so I filed it off blunt it works even better that way. if you look on eBay, I know you can get old glass bodied syringes and needles which are sold as medical antiques or collectors items. The glass syringe would work great with liquid cements, but they're somewhat pricey for us hobbiests to find and use.

Yes, but the ridiculous part about this is that law abiding citizens are made to feel like carp if we even ask about getting a few hypodermic needles for hobby use. Yet tweekers get handfuls of the things, no questions asked,, just for the asking, then toss their used ones everywhere! Used to be we hardly ever found sharps on job sites, now nearly every D.O.T. contract carries a Bid Item for "Biohazard Cleanup", yes your tax dollars pay someone a lot of money to pick up and clean up those used needles! But no way can you get even a couple to build models with. Makes a whole lot of sense doesn't it, lawbreakers have more rights than you do!

You guys have some great input on this, let's keep it going, I mean not letting it denigrate into a bashing match that's not what I intended. Really it's almost a which came first chicken or egg question; who feeds, fuels who? Is it really as simplistic as, there is a sucker born every minute? Or Asking what ever the market will bear? Nor is it a swipe at those whom sell kits, parts and pieces on eBay, we hear griping about high eBay pricing on vintage stuff all the time let's use this to help get an understanding of why it is acceptable or not to ask these kind of prices. Regarding the earlier brittle plastic question/statement, I have purchased a couple of kits which were stripped with who knows what, a Garlits Wynns Jammer with major brittle frame rails, a Model A which I bought specifically for its tires and wheels to use on a Model T Speedster, with spokes so brittle I had to use wheels from another kit. It happens, granted these weren't virgin styrene but they had issues. I learned my lesson and don't buy stuff that the seller or someone else has stripped.

Could be when the spray cap is placed onto the can during assembly that there is some expectation of pressure build up underneath the cap which could cause it to pop off. The possibility of the presence of liquid paint under the cap could cause enough hydraulic pressure to pop off the spray cap. Good question, but you can guess that either some mechanical engineer, manufacturing tooling person had it placed there for a reason. It costs money for the tooling to place that hole there so the manufacturer of the cap isn't going to just put a hole in the cap without a good reason. Something like, indexing the cap so that the small round spray nozzle can be pressed in. Even for a pin to eject the spray cap from the injection mold. You could probably think up a bazillion such scenarios, until you break down the steps of the manufacturing process from beginning to end all it would be is a guess.

I'd buy several, makes me all nostalgic. Totally disappointed with the latest AMT reissue, I never had the original issue so I thought it was as bad as the later reissue. Please someone we'd love to see a proper '65 Goat! This would be a great multiple use tooling expenditure as well, the '65 Chevelle, Skylark, Olds used the same platform and basic interior bucket. @ 70JudgeMan - Andy, That's probably the closest to the color I've ever seen, could have been a special order coded GTO. Pretty much anything was possible with the right dealer back then.

Replying to my own question here. In many hobbies, models included some of the ridiculous prices seem to be driven by people with no patience to hunt down what they want. Used to collect and trade Redline Hot Wheels so I've seen the "it's old it's worth more mentality", there too! We see it in the Old Car market as well, the rise of the "designer" Telivised Auctions proves that one, prices have risen astronomically since the Auction "Services" got involved. I've bought a few old kits that haven't been available in eons and had issues with warped, brittle plastic, even tire burn. Then there are parts, you are almost gauranteed you'll be doing some restoration. Sometimes you get lucky and get unused pieces, which unfortunately end up brittle that you have to be super careful with. For me there are times when it's difficult to justify this kind of pricing with the extra care to make the part(s) work.

Perusing through Evilbay window shopping some of the old styrene for sale, I started wondering just who is to blame for some of the stupidly high asking prices for old/vintage kits, parts, build ups, boxes...? Is it the seller? Is it the buyer? Is it someone lacking patience to hunt the old kit(s) down? Maybe even nostalgia, "I built this as a kid"? Is it just because it's old? Finally are some of these kits really worth a huge asking price when the builder may have to exercise extreme care with old brittle styrene? What do you guys (and gals) think about it, would you even rather bother with the old styrene? (Lots of questions, trying to generate some civil discussion). What do you think?

They're called "Post GTO's because they have a "B" Pillar behind the door with fixed glass, a door which is also framed around the door glass. Versus a true hard top car which has roll up windows in the door and behind the door as well, the chrome strip on the behind door glass gives the illusion of a narrow pillar which also seals the door glass. If I remember correctly there were more Hard Tops built than Posts, but not so few that they are rare just not as common. Think Hard top Nova Versus mainline Chevy II which has that same type of B pillar arrangement. On the Post GTO it is probably a carryover from the Tempest and done at the factory as a True GTO build.

First car was a '65 GTO, the '65 was more Chevelle like than the later Goats. Having had a '65 myself I've always liked that year better than the larger later GTO's. They were plenty fast for their day, in retrospect the handling wasn't quite on par with the Horsepower, but it sure was fun! Mine was a Copper color, I've looked in paint books but have never found that color in any paint book. I bought the car from the original owner who told me that it had never been repainted. When I touched some minor road rash the color had to be hand mixed to match the Metalic Copper color on the car combined with a black interior it was a really sweet looking car. Something else that I just found out just recently is that the '65 GTO was built both as a Hardtop and a Post. I was looking at a "Post" Goat for sale in California, thinking it was a Tempest Clone. I looked it up on the Pontiac Registry only to find it to be a true GTO to my surprise there really were Post Goats. (Should have looked for that mystery color while I was there.)

Looks great, similar to one Hot Rod magazine did back in the '80's or so.

Very nice, Old English and Black top is a cool combo! The Classic Mini club that I belong to has a few Mini's that same color. You nailed it!! Now you need a Red SAAB 96 to go with it!!!

I've used Silly Putty for masking odd shaped objects for a long time, saw it in SAE tips section and another time in an article. First I was concerned about using Silly Putty because of the silicone in the putty, I was afraid of fish eye, but it's never happened. Now that I've switched to mainly acrylic paints that's not an issue either. I get my Silly Putty at the Dollar store for a buck or less, last I looked it sells for $2 - 3 everywhere else.

http://t.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html Harbor Freight, it's the larger of the two that they sell.

Typically, I try planning the painting whether it's model car, sign work or whatever, working from light to dark colors. That is if it's possible to do so, some times it isn't. Working light to dark determines the extent of airbrush flushing or cleaning between colors. Normally what I do is shoot enough of the reducer through until it comes clean. Paying particular attention to the tip and needle which a quick run run over with a Q-tip is all that's needed. Cleaning the needle and tip will make sure that the next color doesn't sputter shooting out globs instead of the fine atomized mist you're looking for. I used to surgically clean the airbrush between colors until I figured out that it wasn't any better than just a quick clean up like I'm doing now. I leave the surgical cleaning for after the painting is done!

Yep, quite a few High Horse Power "Purpose Built" Race Cars ran two and four wheel disc brakes in the early 60's timeframe. It wasn't all that uncommon to see "High Dollar" Hot Rods running disc brakes then too, rear wheel disc brakes were less common on the street than the strip. i suspect the SWC car that Revell modeled this one after is the "Restored/Recreation" of the SWC "Black Willys", if so then it is possible that if the original wasn't running 4 disc's I it may have been added during restoration. I think it's their last Willys which ran a Hemi rather than Olds as did their earlier cars. Time period would be anywhere for original Black Willys would be 70 - 72 or 3 which wouldn't put 4 wheel disc's out of the picture either. (Too lazy to pick through a pile of Popular Hotrodding" magazines at the moment to give you an absolute definite answer.)

I've watched a few episodes, can't say that's I am a fan of the show or theatrics that they seem to pull because of the producers. The cars are interesting, I'd rather watch it if they would take the racing to a track or other safe racing surface versus "public streets". Not sure if I read it here, hamb, Hot Rod or somewhere else but NHRA watches the show too watching for their own racers street racing; they'd said they'd pull individuals competition license if they saw them Street Racing on the show. the cars appear to be running former 80's and 90's Pro Stock type Chassis, possibly well designed Pro Street Set Ups. Smaller tired cars are probably either back halved or tied-subframe cars. Most of them look like they're running four link setups. I see a whole lot of these cars running what many of the quicker bracket cars were running just a few years ago, you have some looking like they're backyard homebrewed and others that may have come out of a legitimate race shop at one time.

At one time JCP Scat-Trac tires were at a whole lot of hot cars, they were cheaper than the Goodyear and Firestone tires, held up pretty well to a whole lot of abuse, with a tread wear guarantee to boot. Penny's automotive departments were a whole lot more performance minded than Sears stores were, Penny's sold mounted and guaranteed mag wheels, Sears wouldn't guarantee them. Penny's sold all kinds of performance stuff like cams, pop up Pistons, headers, ignition stuff like Mallory Duel Point Distributors and more. I had Scat-Trac tires on my '65 GTO and '69 Z-28, I can gaurantee they withstood a ton of abuse, they smoked like crazy!!! I seem to remember Penny's Automotive Department still operating until about 1982'ish or so.

Happens all the time when's when an old guy not used to light high power to weight ratio Hot Rod gets on it and loses it, because he's been driving a Prius all week! the reason that the grill she'll isn't torn up is the impact was taken by a good stout spreader bar which ties the impact directly to the vehicles frame.

I use my ultrasonic cleaner with lacquer thinner to clean airbrush parts, works well. I have the large tank model that Harbor Freight sells, unheated tank. I'd be a little bit careful using a heated tank with volatile liquids, don't want anywhere near the flash point or vapor point. I use windex for acrylics.

what I normally do is paint the area to be flocked then tint the Elmer's white glue with the same acrylic paint I just used on the interiors floor.

When you first posted this one from the title I didn't connect Dallas Cowboys, I was thinking cowboy Camaro. As in what in the world does a Camaro have to do with Cowboys, I was picturing some sort of hideous Cow themed paint scheme!! I think I saw it like about 03:00 hours, I was relieved it wasn't a cow paint scheme and surprised at how nice it looked, great job. (Don't blame me I take my iPad to work, when I work nights. So I can keep up on stuff and not use the taxpayer's computer, don't get in trouble that way!)

Nice paint, reminds me of Larry Watson's style. Is that engine using the Fisher Crossflow head, the AMT '51 Bel Aire had one in it the last time I built one.