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Typically, I try planning the painting whether it's model car, sign work or whatever, working from light to dark colors. That is if it's possible to do so, some times it isn't. Working light to dark determines the extent of airbrush flushing or cleaning between colors. Normally what I do is shoot enough of the reducer through until it comes clean. Paying particular attention to the tip and needle which a quick run run over with a Q-tip is all that's needed. Cleaning the needle and tip will make sure that the next color doesn't sputter shooting out globs instead of the fine atomized mist you're looking for. I used to surgically clean the airbrush between colors until I figured out that it wasn't any better than just a quick clean up like I'm doing now. I leave the surgical cleaning for after the painting is done!

Yep, quite a few High Horse Power "Purpose Built" Race Cars ran two and four wheel disc brakes in the early 60's timeframe. It wasn't all that uncommon to see "High Dollar" Hot Rods running disc brakes then too, rear wheel disc brakes were less common on the street than the strip. i suspect the SWC car that Revell modeled this one after is the "Restored/Recreation" of the SWC "Black Willys", if so then it is possible that if the original wasn't running 4 disc's I it may have been added during restoration. I think it's their last Willys which ran a Hemi rather than Olds as did their earlier cars. Time period would be anywhere for original Black Willys would be 70 - 72 or 3 which wouldn't put 4 wheel disc's out of the picture either. (Too lazy to pick through a pile of Popular Hotrodding" magazines at the moment to give you an absolute definite answer.)

I've watched a few episodes, can't say that's I am a fan of the show or theatrics that they seem to pull because of the producers. The cars are interesting, I'd rather watch it if they would take the racing to a track or other safe racing surface versus "public streets". Not sure if I read it here, hamb, Hot Rod or somewhere else but NHRA watches the show too watching for their own racers street racing; they'd said they'd pull individuals competition license if they saw them Street Racing on the show. the cars appear to be running former 80's and 90's Pro Stock type Chassis, possibly well designed Pro Street Set Ups. Smaller tired cars are probably either back halved or tied-subframe cars. Most of them look like they're running four link setups. I see a whole lot of these cars running what many of the quicker bracket cars were running just a few years ago, you have some looking like they're backyard homebrewed and others that may have come out of a legitimate race shop at one time.

At one time JCP Scat-Trac tires were at a whole lot of hot cars, they were cheaper than the Goodyear and Firestone tires, held up pretty well to a whole lot of abuse, with a tread wear guarantee to boot. Penny's automotive departments were a whole lot more performance minded than Sears stores were, Penny's sold mounted and guaranteed mag wheels, Sears wouldn't guarantee them. Penny's sold all kinds of performance stuff like cams, pop up Pistons, headers, ignition stuff like Mallory Duel Point Distributors and more. I had Scat-Trac tires on my '65 GTO and '69 Z-28, I can gaurantee they withstood a ton of abuse, they smoked like crazy!!! I seem to remember Penny's Automotive Department still operating until about 1982'ish or so.

Happens all the time when's when an old guy not used to light high power to weight ratio Hot Rod gets on it and loses it, because he's been driving a Prius all week! the reason that the grill she'll isn't torn up is the impact was taken by a good stout spreader bar which ties the impact directly to the vehicles frame.

I use my ultrasonic cleaner with lacquer thinner to clean airbrush parts, works well. I have the large tank model that Harbor Freight sells, unheated tank. I'd be a little bit careful using a heated tank with volatile liquids, don't want anywhere near the flash point or vapor point. I use windex for acrylics.

what I normally do is paint the area to be flocked then tint the Elmer's white glue with the same acrylic paint I just used on the interiors floor.

When you first posted this one from the title I didn't connect Dallas Cowboys, I was thinking cowboy Camaro. As in what in the world does a Camaro have to do with Cowboys, I was picturing some sort of hideous Cow themed paint scheme!! I think I saw it like about 03:00 hours, I was relieved it wasn't a cow paint scheme and surprised at how nice it looked, great job. (Don't blame me I take my iPad to work, when I work nights. So I can keep up on stuff and not use the taxpayer's computer, don't get in trouble that way!)

Nice paint, reminds me of Larry Watson's style. Is that engine using the Fisher Crossflow head, the AMT '51 Bel Aire had one in it the last time I built one.

I've tried the shakers, strainers before as well, if you watch their video of their applicator it appears to be superior to the methods most of us have been using. It's capable of covering sharp corners and intricate shapes, something I can't do that easy shaking the stuff in. That's why I shared it.

Well Bill,,, you've made me want an aircraft model now!! The Lindberg Gee Bee was one of the models my Uncle and I put together as a kid. I remember now that it was not quite 1/32nd scale, can't remember what plane he got to build but it was true 1/32nd scale, there was a major size difference! You are correct, with a little fiddling it can be turned into a pretty stunning model, I've seen a couple built by talented aircraft modelers.

Came across a website called "Just Flock It" through Dave Lindsay's So Cal Car Culture links. ://www.flockit.com/index.php/products/soft-flock/soft-flock-fibers/soft-flock-rayon-fibers-1-2-oz-package.html They carry flocking in small amounts that would be perfect for model car applications. What really interested me is the applicator it's like a cardboard tube balloon pump, from the how to video it looks like it just shoots the flocking out of the applicator instead of using the small strainer most of us normally use. They say that their small model car size bag, which sells for $2.60 has enough material to cover a square foot of surface (12" X 12"). Even if you didn't use it for models, can be used for automotive uses - glove box relining, woodworking - drawer lining, boxes... Anyone ever use this brand flocking, looks like the same stuff we've all used. Specifically anyone ever use this type of applicator for flocking? I'm thinking about picking up the applicator for models and some other Christmas stuff. Looked interesting enough to share.

Harry, I think the question was more like examples of the mechanics of wiring and plumbing an engine versus specific engine applications. (At least that's the way I interpreted it.)

I was just going to mention that, I've had static electricity pull paint right off of a paint brush, string together atomized paint off of an airbrush nozzle so that it cobwebs the paint onto the surface being painted. Unless you have some sort of elaborate grounding system dreamed up I wouldn't even consider plexiglass for an enclosure. Just pulling air across the surface of plexiglass or even fiberglass will build up enough static to cause problems. The more air you pull the higher the chance you're going to build static. One major problem not mentioned yet with the static is attracting tons of dust that can get transferred to the fresh paint! if it were me building an enclosure to spray paint in I would consider using plywood, MDF, or sheet metal. I am running a Paasche sheet metal paint booth, I run a ground strap off of the booth itself, since doing so I haven't had any issues with static while spraying any plastic, fiberglass or plexiglass items. Pressure Regulator, consider adding an inline type regulator with gauge just before the reducer to the smaller airbrush line for fine tuning without having to go back and forth to the compressor. Water Trap, add one just ahead of the pressure regulator. Even small amounts of water in an airbrush will give you fits an hour extra water trap is cheap insurance.

Those wheels look great on that Corvair!

Nice, love that color. Real or not that real one is nice enough that no one in their right mind would change a thing! Local to me is a Camaro that same color, an older couple owns it (in their 70's or 80's). I've seen it several times at cruise nights it is an SS trim level, with a Six Cylinder, Four Speed, Ralley Pack Gauge Console, Black Interior. It's got everything on it that one would love on a V8 Camaro. I talked to the couple one night, addressing the man first he just pointed to his wife and told me it's her car she's the one who bought it. Turns out that she took the brochure / catalog home and marked everything she wanted on her Camaro, then went back to the dealer and "Special Ordered" it! She told me she can't drive it without at least one person trying to buy it!! I'll bet!

I'm liking what you're doing and where you're going with this one. Far too many of us are afraid to step out of the box and do frames, it's your build so I'm not going to critique your design. I like your concept, the original model was really nice, I think the finished Roadster you're building has the potential to be really stunning! Love the 409, "W" heads are Cool!

That turned out really nice! Just goes to show that something someone else might have made some sorta "Rat Rambler" out of can be rubbed the right way to look as good if not better than it was supposed to the first time around! I sort of have a soft spot for Rambler Americans, my Dad had a '60 and a White'65, the '65 lost the "R" on the back so it was the ultra rare "ambler American"! It was like that when my Dad got it, he traded it for a '63 VW Bug, (I think he even made $50 on the deal).

How do you build or even work on stuff when you're on nights? (6 PM - 6AM) after getting 7 - 8 HRs sleep that leaves 1 hour at the most of bench time during the week, maybe 3 - 4 Hours on Saturday and Sunday. Got word on Friday my contractor on a large Bridge Project is going on nights through the first of the he year. (No happy face here!). The last bout on nights a year ago, I couldn't get motivated for anything to get my tired bunz up to the bench even to build for someone else. As was I just barely made my deadline of my nephew's birthday. Same nephew approached me a week or so ago to build a '53 F-100 for my brother who is having his full size F-100 restored. I agreed to do the work with first week of December delivery. Now I start nights tonight and am already getting ready to go panick mode! Never missed a delivery date, this could be the first!

How is it weird? The magazines are being torn up in the mail by their handling equipment, not by the publishing process. I would imagine that the magazines are sent to the hobby shop either in a bundle or container not individually, so that isn't a real valid argument for the same processing. FYI - I wasn't whining about bagging. Merely pointing out that there are methods of protecting the magazines through the mail. Other "small run" magazines are already doing something to protect their product. The local hobby shop which is a half hour away sells out of Model Cars and SAE nearly as soon as they arrive. Barnes and Noble is just around the corner from the LHS, I've never seen a copy of Model Cars there ever. So picking up a copy at either store isn't a real great answer either.

The cheaper acrylic paints have less pigment in them than some of the other higher quality brands. You can get good results with them by building thin coats with a very soft brush. The cheaper, lower quality craft acrylics are prone to brush marks, try a lower end flat watercolor brush just dampened with a little water and see how you can get it to lay down.

No, but a few of the magazines I referred to, such as Bob Bond's "Auto Art" magazine have a way smaller subscription number and it comes bagged every month. I've run across other small run magazines who are doing the same thing, it's not that uncommon, nor is it an unreasonable request for a publisher to ensure their readers get a readable copy each and every month. Instead of poo poo'ing requests and suggestions why not look into what the cost actually is rather than questioning someone's intelligence.

Well I don't understand when you put out a nice, specialty magazine like Model Cars and they cannot throw in a 5 or 10 cent bag to place it in to safely go through the mail. I subscribe to a few art and auto art type magazines two different Mini magazines from UK, they don't charge anything for the plastic bag it comes in every month. I've never had one of these magazines come through the mail damaged or torn ever. The magazines that do come through the mail naked regularly are torn, including Model Cars magazine. I keep most of my magazines, nearly all of them for reference material, so when I receive them in less than good condition it makes me wonder why I'm not just buying them off the newsstand, if I could find it that is! (Which is why I subscribed in the first place.) Jairus, I haven't come across your Slot Cars Magazine on any newsstand yet, which is how I normally buy the first three or four issues to make sure it's a good fit with my interests. I applaud you guys for spending the extra quarter or less that it costs to protect the magazine. Last time I mentioned this problem I was met with a, "it's not Gregg's call it's the publisher who makes that call". OK, so how to the other bagged magazines get bagged then if the people producing them aren't telling the printer to bag them so they are not shredded in the mail? Sorry for a longish rant post, when you pay a fair price for a great magazine I think you should be able to expect that the printer and or producer does what it takes to get it into the subscribers hands in good condition. I'm not the only one with this problem either as I've noticed others bring up the same problem.

In addition ion to Andy's suggestions for the Sterilite Clear Plastic Shoe Boxes, these are great to place opened "in work" model kits. I've used these for some time, with the original model box it is possible to lose small parts, with the clear plastic shoe boxes the probability that a small part is going to go missing is much smaller. Plus it is easy to have multiple models in work, using this method. Once you begin building up an inventory of the shoe boxes you can then start placing kit bashing projects into them, as you are hunting for needed parts for the project. You're less likely to "rob" a part for another project if it's in an in work box. You can also use them to store extra or spare parts.

Wow Drew, that is jaw droppingly awsome! Beautiful job, the flathead makes it look so much more "period correct". Must have been tempting to put a Deuce grillshell in place of the Model A shell, both would be correct for the time period.