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Martin, that's one of the best 25 - 36 hp engines I've seen in any scale. I know it's probably the kit solex carb but it really does lack some detail doesn't it? I can't exactly put my finger on it but something looks like it's missing off the front side, opposite of the float bowl. Other than that like I said before I think you nailed it including the bends on the fuel line, looks like this kit has some really good bones in the first place.

Back when those VW's were probably sectioned, Volkswagons were a dime a dozen, nothing special for the most part! You can't apply today's standards of coolness to what people did to cars in the past. Those of us who were actually seen driving a "Chick Car" endured a whole lot of cr@p flipped our way for driving something that didn't drain the wallet dry during the week so we could drive our "Real Car"on the weekend. I had a '57 Oval Window first running an 1835 and later a "Grenade" 2180 cc engine. The 48 IDA Webbers cost more than the whole car did (paid a princely sum of $100 for a running, driving 36 hp '57 Oval Window!) right around $600 for carbs alone. Still running a hot rodded Bug burned a lot less Supreme Gasoline than did my '65 GTO with a Radical SD 421. The only real downfall of the Bug Was it ate transaxles like they were going out of style! A few hours long distance with Gene Berg, in Southern California, solved most of the gear breakage issues, after that it just broke the cases! (I worked in the Service Department of a VW Dealership at the time so I got a deal on parts. When the Rabbits came out, if they didn't have to order it I usually didn't have to pay too much for anything.) The Oval Window was respectfully quick, but I still took a lot of Cr@p for driving it! I did some work on a friend's '55 Stubby Wagon, it actually drove and handled fairly well, even with a slightly warmed over 327 it wanted to lift the front end off the ground, when the 327 was "built" it would carry the front wheels through first and second gears. That thing was a blast to drive. Tri-Five Stubbys came about pretty much for one reason. No One, and I repeat, Absolutely No One would dare be seen driving a four door anything!! The four-door sedans and wagons went for about a third of the price of the more popular Two-Doors, Hard top, Posts or if you could find one Wagon. For the most part around the late '60's to mid 70's you would see more Stubby Tri-Five Chevys than anything else, maybe an occasional Chevy II wagons, Corvair Convertible and a small number of early VW vans, with the exception of the Corvair and VW's most started out as four doors. Build quality on all of these shortened rides ranged from absolutely crude to really well finished bodywork and painted really nicely. The Stubby '57 looks like it's running a straight axle, the nose high attitude was the "Hot Set Up" for drag racing in the early '60's. A high front end helped with weight transfer, with A/GS on the side is probably why it's running the extra altitude. That car wouldn't have been allowed to run in any of the Gas Classes, it would have to have ran in the Altered Classes.

OK, a closer look at your Grandpa's '34 Ford looks like he was running a pretty stock flathead V8. The "Cycle Fenders" we're probably made from spare tire cover rings as was the practice of the day. If I remember right the AMT '36 Ford had the spare tire cover. Wheels from what I see look like '40 or later steel wheels, only a stickler is going to tell that you didn't use the correct steel wheels, lots of kits have five lug wheels, look for the bias ply tires in older kits, if the base '34 Ford you are using has a stock version then you have a start. Rear fenders look like they could be bobbed stock fenders, Repro's and Miniatures has the '32 Ford Victoria Bobbed rear fenders, with a little tweaking could be made to look right, whichever fender you end up using make sure to thin the revealed edges so they don't appear so thick and plasticky. One item that might give you fits is the exposed radiator, maybe you can make the '34 radiator work. Hope this helps a little. I've presented a few models to family and friends, the smile that comes to their face and appreciation for your hard work make it more than worth it.

Wow! That is truely scary! I cannot imagine getting hit from any angle sitting on that thing especially if a lifted 4 X 4 was doing the hitting. I could see using something like this to bash around in the Boonies but driven on the street, not a chance! Looks like one of those Hot Rod or Car Craft articles where the premise of the story was to lower the 1/4 mile E.T. By losing weight, chop a little off here, chop a little more off there until all that's left is seat, frame, engine, transmission and rear end. Dang, it sure goes fast now!!!

Stero Plastic Shoe Boxes, clear plastic most of the smaller model boxes will fit inside, if they don't drop in I usually fold it flat and store on top then shut the whole thing in the shoe box. You can get them for as cheap as 2 for a $1 to $2 during the after Christmas storage sales. I started using them with projects storing everything in the shoe box from parts gathering through completion, for me it's a system that works well. If I need to set the model aside everything goes back into the shoe box, it takes a whole lot of discipline not to dip into that box and borrow parts! I don't store all my models in the shoe boxes, when I notice that a box is showing some wear and tear or crushing then it's time to go into a shoe box.

Being that your Grandfather's Coupe was not running a grill shell either a '33 or '34 Coupe is going to work. One of my Dad's Hot Rods was a '34 Coupe, however the only surviving picture clearly shows that he was running '33 grill she'll and hood sides. This was one of the last conversations Dad and I had. At that time he was in the first almost second stage of Alzheimer's Disease. He could remember things that happened in his youth like they were yesterday, but he couldn't remember yesterday at times like it ever happened. (Sad disease I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy! BTW if anyone has a family member who has Alzheimer's I am willing to speak to you.) My Dad told me that his older brother had a '33 Tudor and sorta backed it into an embankment the whole front end was super straight. His '34 Coupe was pretty straight from the firewall back, he was going to replace the sheetmetal as soon as he could, since the "Fender Laws" were enforced pretty strictly (in Washington State), so all four fenders stayed on the car. He swapped the entire '33 front end including the bumper onto his '34 adding to the mystery. Engine was a '40 truck block with a duel '94 set up on one of those 2 into 1 on a stock flathead intake adapters and some sort of headers with a 3/4 Cam and big valve springs, (probably stiffer spring to make the valves shut quicker.) It's fun to find out about the family Hot Rod history, even the run of the mill to them cars they used to drive are for the most part pretty special nowadays! I know I look back on those conversations with my Dad pretty fondly now that he's gone.

Tulip, as soon as I saw the paint I knew it was yours! Those are some beautiful '36's. For some reason your lineup reminds me of the Lindberg 1/32 Scale box art from the early '60's version.

Nice '49, reminds me of the '60's / '70's box art.

You did a great job on this one. Have to second the NW Deuce Days event, we've attended two of the shows definitely eye candy overload. My uncle showed his Flamed Gards Red '32 3W there a few times before he sold it, (that's how we found out about the show in the first place).

Xcellent, with a big old X as in Xtra special. I've always loved the Cheetahs. I remember drooling over them in Hot Rod, then there was the article in Rod & Custom, where Don Emmons combined a Cox Cheetah slot car body, Corvette engine and transmission and I think an AMT Mercedes Gull Wing chassis it was a true Don Emmons conversion as in beautiful! Kit bashing before there was a word for it. Now back to the present, your Cheetah captures the look and feel of the real Cheetah, thumbs up to Modelhaus for putting it into kit form. Great paint by the way, don't believe I've seen one in black, when I picture one in my mind's eye I always see the more common Red.

I miss his "interesting" posts, wish he'd find his way back into the fold again; maybe it's time for a good old MCM Revival Meeting to get the wanderers back! Edited to correct spelling, iPads can't seem to autocorrect the right words!

That looks great, that roof swap is completely plausible! Should finish up really nice.

Funny George Barris gets more print that SMP part of the AMT equation. Though SMPprobably never took credit for as many designs or cars as George did!

Tulio, That's a great tip, probably one of the best of the best that I have seen in many years of modeling. I once used a spray spray on contact cement product to glue household foil onto a Weird-Ohs Freddy Flameout plane. It worked, but had some of those same blemishes that you point out BMF having. I do remember some of the very early BMF having some blemish issues until they got the adhesive issues corrected. I don't know why it never dawned on me that regular acrylic Elmer's glue wouldn't work. I have been in awe of your amazing Ford based models for some time, you experiment with some things some of us don't look at and wonder why it wouldn't work, obviously for you it's paying off handsomely! P.S. I also love your English as a Second, (possibly more) Language Accent, proves to me that you are no stranger to hard work! For that you should be commended, (my wife is a Teacher so I recognize hose things too).

Nice looking Fleet of AWB's!

$27K would not be a bad deal, it even has provenance, however outside of California i wonder what that provenance would carry. I remember seeing these Sprint Roadsters in Hot Rod in the 60's, so for someone who saw them when they were running either in person or print would bring the recognition value, just wonder how much that would transfer do investment value. Still it has tons of "Cool" value that cannot be valued to the right person. Be fun to own if it could be made street legal while still retaining its Vintage Sprint Car appearance.

Dave, This is almost a ditto of my comments on Andy's "Misfit Ford" you guys must be reading each other's mind or something. This looks so "East Coast" Style. If you don't already have any pick up, find, beg, borrow or steal (not that I condone theft but it's part of the saying) copies of "Rodding and Re-styling" magazines it was one of the voices of the 50's - 60's East Coast Hot Rod scene. Lots of wild street and show Hot Rods what really defines the East Coast Style is the degree of channeling and either no or very mild top chops. Love your "New" twist on the 32 Vicky, just when you think you've sorta seen everything that could be done with a Hot Rod someone resurrects an idea out of the past in a really cool way. Keep it up, this one has the potential to be really cool!

I like the Stock Roof Height, just setting there with nothing else done it reminds me so much of an early 60's East Coast Hot Rod. They used to Channel them so low that they had to leave a little on the top or else they couldn't get in them let alone drive! For more information on East Coast Style Hot Rods check out "Roddinig and Re-styling" there are a couple other East Coast Rodding magazines, but "Rodding and Re-styling" is the easiest and cheapest to find at swap meets or on eBay. Have fun with this one, has the potential to be way cool!!!

I've sold a couple of my models a few years ago, like nearly ten when the economy was booming (it will again). I got $100 and $250 respectively. They were both nice models of kits which were not available right then, IMC VW Bug built as an early Cal Look Bug, Meyers Manx built as a Drag Race Buggy, used the AMT 36 hp Chrome Engine in both as they were the best engine to build a detailed VW Motor at the time. No doubt about it I never made a dime on either one considering time, paint, parts to kit bash with and materials. I really have no desire to get rid of models that way, what brings me a huge smile every time I've done it is just flat out giving the model as a gift. Right now I am working on an Ed Roth Mr. gasser for my Brother whose first car was a '57 Chevy Hardtop, the next "Give Away" will be an AWB '65 GTO to a friend who had a '65 GTO as his High School Hot Rod, I'll be using a Speed City Resins AWB Frame under it, 421 Pontiac... From the recent models I've given away the priceless smiles were worth every hour spent on the bench!

Looks like a "Skid Steer" like a Bobcat, which I wouldn't doubt there are a few parts off of some type of Bobcat like construction type vehicle. Very Cool though!!

An older friend (now deceased) had two Modet T Ford Tractor conversations plus a Model A that had larger wood spoked rear wheels, a pair on either side, I think he told me they were off of a Pierce Arrow. One of the Model T tractors ran steel wheels the other had about a 2" X 2" diamond pattern pneumatic rubber tire. One of the T's ran a much taller radiator almost the height of a Fordson Radiator, the other had a stock appearing painted Model T radiator she'll and probably a deeper re-cored radiator (Honycomb). Ignitions were the Model T "Buzz Box" Coils, no other electrics except for plug wires. Very simple Tractors to say the least. The T with stock Radiator she'll ran the top hood only, taller radiator had a simple bent sheet metal "Hood" held on with sheet metal screws and old rope. Both ran stock cowling and both had center mounted tractor type seats on a curved flatiron mount. Both had stock dashboards with non-working gauges. Both ran remnants of front bumpers one bent to a gentle vee the other a radius around the tall tractor type grill and bolted to the front of the frame horns. Bumpers being a place to hang lead or concrete weights onto the front but out of the way of the starter cranks. The tractor radiator also ran an auxiliary three speed no reverse transmission behind the stock Model T transmission. The Model A was much more crudely converted from car to tractor, it ran a stock coupe/sedan cowl, stock seat springs and metal seat structure only. This one ran head lights and single Model A tail lamp, probably for going to and from fields in morning and evening hours. The front wheels were stock Model A with a three rib implement type tire, rear tires were stock street type tires which appeared to have had a heavy lug to them floorboard was crude wood 4 - 6 inch wide X 1/2" thick (unknown) wood boards held in place by flathead screws with square nuts on backside. Radiator she'll was extremely well worn chrome, hood top only from a different car either black or blur at one time, cowel looked like it may have originally gray then brush painted faded red then gray again. Dashboard held all of the stock Gage's which all worked still, even the speedo, though not at the correct speed, all glass including the wracked and delaminating windshield were pitted and discolored. Any painted surface was severely faded with a light sheen of rust, but not severe rust. All three had shortened frames with shorter closed drive shafts, rear cross members were moved forward and bolted back to the frame rails. Most of painted surfaces were painted either black or gray. All appeared to have been maintained through the years. I was told that all three were found in the High Desert Areas of Eastern Washington State where they were working up until the late fifties to very early sixties. Most likely used in the orchards during the later part of their lives. When they were brought to Western Washington they were parked out of the weather inside of sheds and started every once and a while. I know that all three were originally bought with the idea of using their running gear in other Model T & A project cars, then he just couldn't bear tearing them apart. The two Model T's are back in Eastern Washington bought by a collector of farm stuff. Makes me wish I had pictures of them, we just didn't "waste" film on stuff like that back then. These would make an incredible weathering and conversion project, there are tons of pictures of these little tractors in books and I'm sure here on thee 'net. Lots of greasy open mechanicals, tons of dust, shiny worn metal from tons of use. Right up the Good Doctor's Alley!!

Shouldn't be an issue with backfire, there is normally either a thin metal burst plate which blows out the back of the intake manifold or couple of pop off valves located on either end of the intake. Pretty much the only way that type of blower would explode would be severe valve timing issues or a Foreign object lodged between the air vanes, it would have to be fairly large as lose as the vanes are Set on street blowers. Probably wouldn't be a huge factor. With a supercharger the air movement into or towards the inlet of the scoop is a small factor. The Butterflies are more like opening the front door of the house under vacuum, there is only so much air that can fit through can fit through an opening whether it's facing into or opposite the oncoming air stream. Think of it like a hose, you can only push more water through by speed or pressure both of which are performed by means of drive speed of the superchargers air vanes. Most superchargers Used on the street are under driven a lot. Top Fuel engines are way overdriven which is why when a TF blower pops it's major catastrophic. Agree 110% with Ace, these "Bikes" are mostly for show not go, E.J. Potter really never realized the full potential of the crazy V8 Bikes he designed, built and ran. I've never been near one of these Monstrosities, I used to ride some pretty mean Sport Bikes, some with extreme evil handling like the Kawasaki 750 and 500 triples they both had so much power that the swing arms flexed so much that They regularly wore out the bushings! A V8 engine would produce enough torque and rotational mass From crankshaft alone that it would have to be a factor in handling. Then there's the weight factor not a problem for the engine but the rider would have to be an animal to realize any way near the potential of its horsepower. Did I mention, it's just plain nuts. Cool to look at heck yeah, too crazy for me. They are feats of excellent mechanical engineering to say the least!

Nice "Acne" cure! Interesting take on a 40 Tudor.

Please run that thing into a tree so the rest of us are put out of our misery!! Some sort of warning points should be issued for posting something that foul!!

I was aware that Ford had an OHV V8 in '54, the point was that most Hot Rodders were running the Flathead not the 292 "Y" Block. The Chev' small block appeared in far greater numbers than the Y Block, which really didn't catch on until the 312 TBird came out, even then the Chevy Small Block was far more common. When it came to OHV V8 power, it was the Mopar Hemi and the Small Block Chevy powering more than their share of Hot Rods. For the most part Ford in a Ford wasn't a popular swap for one reason, engine length, when you hang the water pump and fan on the front of the Ford engine it's length is very tight for the Early Ford engine bay. (Many of the early engine swapping articles bemoan this fact.) Look through any of the "Little Pages" small format magazines of the '50 - '62 time period, the Hot Rods are running 1. Flathead Ford 2. Small Block Chev. 3. Hemi (Chrysler, Plymouth, DeSoto). Race Cars 1. Flathead Ford (in ever decreasing numbers) 2. Hemi. 3. Small block Chevy (Numbers climb as the Cubic Inches increase). I have been collecting the "Digest" Size, Small Format, "Little Pages" since before it was popular to do so. (I love the smell of a new to me musty magazine to add to my collection). Amassing a collection of around 200 at last count, Rod & Custom, Honk, Custom Rodder, Car Craft... so I'm pretty familiar with what's powering a great number of Hot Rods during that period.