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R & M of Maryland, is the bar that all other resin casters are measured by. Norm is busy every time I've ordered from him, that's a good thing too he is able to support his small business with our orders. You get your order in, get in line in the orders while Norm casts each to order. You are getting fresh resin cast parts every time. Normal turnaround is 3 - 6 +/- weeks depending on backlog ahead of your order. Norm's quality control is 110+% great, flash is zero to none or about what you'd expect from styrene. I normally like to order with a larger order every time figuring if I'm going to make an order that it may as well be worth Norm's time, ($150 +) per order. I figure that if we don't support the really good resin casters well that they will go under just like too many of the early guys did. Not to mention, Norm is just plain good, honest people who stands behind his work! In fact I have an order in the mail right now, should be here by Monday. I'm beginning to salivate already!!

Even if you put them on eBay you could always scan them and send the scan to the Drastic Plastic site so they can get them online. I've been helped in the past by the hosted instruction sheets so I'm a big proponent of helping the clubs who host them. BTW In the tips section I have started a thread with links to Revell and Drastic Plastic's Instruction Sheets, so if you have any more links to clubs or manufacturers who have instructions online add them please.

Absolutely love the look of an Un-Chopped Model T Coupe, for some reason they look better to me than one with a Mailbox Slot Chop, they don't look all that bad with a real mild chop say 4 - 6 inches. Like the purple glass sets it apart, gives it a '60's flavor as do the wheels and tires, they would set this one apart as a higher end built Hot Rod of say magazine quality. Just like now custom wheels cost a bit go money which is why you see so many Hot Rods even really nice ones running Chrome Reverse Wheels. Your stance looks right on the money! Keep it up on this one.

Please include any links to copies of model car instructions whether on the Manufacturer's Website such as the ones on Revell's website. Suggest that if you have instructions laying around that you contact the Clubs who host them on their websites to see what kind of format they accept copies of instruction sheets. Helps us all out. Revell/monogram/Hobico - http://www.revell.com/support/instructions.html Drastic Plastic Model Car Club - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/

Yes, the '57 Del Rio does include the McCuloch Supercharger parts, same as the Fireball Roberts version, but no instructions to assemble it. http://www.revell.com/support/instructions.html These instructions are also the manuals.hobico.com mentioned. I found the instruction for the supercharged 312 on the Revell website of all places, looked like the the 57 Ford Custom would have included the McCuloch supercharger but it didn't at least by the instructions it doesn't. The Mac' Supercharger was included in the jFireball Robertts version, I would have thought the other way around. 85-4283 85428300200 1/25 1957 Ford Custom 2 'n 1 3.8 MB Download 85-4024 85402400200 1/25 "Fireball" Roberts '57 Ford 4.1 MB Download Thanks to espo, mike 51, Dave Lindsey - SoCalCarCulture, oldnslow, JTalmage. For chiming in. Even though I found the instructions myself before checking this post, you were all of great help. Guess this something we need to look at creating is a list of urls which have instructions for model kits, which needs to include club sites like Drastic Plastic who has scanned instructions on their website.

I have the Revell '57 Del Rio kit which includes the complete McCuloch Blower from the Fairlane kit as well. Does anyone have the assembly instructions for the blower to add to the Del Rio?

Here's what I used the first time I saw those Micromark Pick Up Sticks: Glue Dot - sliced in quarters or thirds. Stick - use either a toothpick or a used Microbrush stick, strip off the brush part off it leaves a really sharp pointed tip. Assembly - Stick the cut portion of the Glue Dot onto either the Toothpick or Microbrush Tip. KEEP FINGERS CLEAR! Usage - Pick up the small part onto the Glue Dot, place on model as required. Keep Fingers Clear!

Years ago an older modeling friend told me they were using a mix of Artist's Gesso and White Acrylic paint, which may have been out of the tube back then. (Certainly the craft type acrylics would work.) the Gesso gives a really bright flat white, the Acrylic gives the flexibility for normal assembly handling and installing onto the wheels. I never used the tip because I wasn't building white walled subjects at the time. I attest to seeing the results of the mix. Unfortunately the benefactor is now modeling in the afterlife so I can't ask hIm. Not certain of the longevity of this trick because I have no idea where his models went. Don't see any reason why it shouldn't work like straight acrylic white, it's just adding more white pigment (Titanium Oxide) solids. I'd start with a 30/70 ratio of gesso/acrylic and work from there. This is probably a tip that if you do use that you may wish to split the gesso with others if you're not already using it for artwork because of the container size. I think the smallest I've been able to pick up for art projects has been like half-pint. (I'll have to check to see if I still have some gesso that hasn't dried up in the bottle and give this a whirl.) **If I am not mistaken, White-Out was originally made of gesso mixed with a solvent (MEK) so that it would dry rapidly.**

oh yeah I got the Badger Paint Mixer off of EvilBay for under $10 including shipping

jb always comes up with the good ideas! Years ago when McDonalds had the plastic coffee stirrers that looked like a little spoon. (Coke spoon I heard, never did that though. The carbonation bothers my sinuses!!) Those worked really well for stirring the settled pigment off of the bottom of paint bottles. Now days I use one of those Badger battery operated paint mixers, gets right down there to the bottom of things and really gets the metallic suspended like it originally was.

Thanks for posting.

Sorry, even though I grew up as a Stooge fan, that box art doesn't do it for me. I thought the '40 Ford Delivery was a "Rip Off" on the Stooge name, Curly's Gasser is even more so. I won't be buying "Curly's Gasser", I'll wait for some other version to come out or buy a previous version. After reading about the extremely ugly fighting amoung the heirs of the Howard Brothers I will not buy anything of new manufacture with the "Three Stooges" name or likeness attached to it. By doing so you are perpetuating the moronic feud and greed of mostly grandchildren who were not around when their grandfathers earned their legacy.

The Eddie Dye Roadster has been one of my favorite early cars for a long time, probably from the first time I saw it in an old magazine! The welded doors on this car were probably for more than styling, those Model A doors tended to pop open at speed especially on unpaved surfaces, (this was later addressed with Bearclaw latches). Have fun, I'll be watching your progress! edited due to autocorrect.

You must be building the Special Edition "Jeff Dunham Baby Blue Prius" complete with yappy Chihuahua!! But he's a manly Chihuahua, too bad the Prius isn't!!! Maybe you could put a little "Walter" in the trunk, so you could say it does run on gas...

interesting, but I wasn't even thinking of gray market cars, most people that I know who have brought a 25+ year old vehicle into the States from Europe have brought in Collector vehicles not gray market vehicles. These were the Federal Statutes we worked to when we imported our Mini in from the U.K. To the Port of Tacoma in 2000. We then took the U.K. Title/proof of ownership to my local State DOL where they swapped the title into our name, no inspection, no emissions check, nothing, the Customs said it was good to go so the DOL accepted it. They even gave me back the original title as a collectible piece to go with the car, I still have it in my safe. ( I know of at least a dozen Mini's brought into the U.S. From both U.K and Japan since then, there was no hassle, no Federalizing of emissions equipment; the only thing checked on the vehicle and paperwork was that it was 25+ years old, being an early '70's Mini there was no issue whatsoever, not even the RHD was a question.) It is extremely simple to import a collector vehicle into the U.S., many of the U.S. Customs Agents who work with vehicle importation are quite familiar with what they are looking for and what they are looking at. I'm not saying that there was not some Customs research along the way that I may have been unaware of, just none that I am aware of. The last year that the Mini's were imported to Dealerships in the U.S. Was 1967 then discontinued for supposed safety issues as were a few other Foreign car makes, most likely for taking a bite out of Detroit's sales.

you can import any car you want to as long as it's 25 years old or older under, collector car status. So if whatever Model Nissan you are looking at isn't rusted into the ground you're in luck! Can't you find someone to trade dash and pedal-box with? Most cars that are sold in RHD or LHD markets are set up so the switch is possible, with some work.

Been driving a RHD Mini since around 2001, takes about ten minutes to get used to, the only real coordination issue was shifting left handed. I always get the question of RHD being legal to drive on US roads, always answer with something like, "When was the last time you saw a mail carrier pulled over?" They always get that light bulb moment and look when they understand the goofiness of their own question.

I'd agree with your list, with the caveat of the old pre-48 rule which probably has slid way newer thanks to Goodguys and others. The '27 T looks way better in the black and white pic, most definitely the pics Glenn posted those are classic stance and styling. Never liked the '32 3W which Chip Foose helped with some styling including the Faux bare metal along the chop lines, supposed to make it appear to be a fresh unpainted chop. What looks good to one person doesn't always look good to another, browse through a stack of old Hot Rod magazines and you'll prove that point. Even when the Golden Age of Hot Rod styling was new there were those pushing the envelope and missing the mark by a mile. Most of who appreciate the Classic Traditional Hot Rod tend to be drawn to those cars which were mainstream in styling, especially those cars clean enough to make a magazine.

I've been using the Createx and their Wicked Colors lines for quite a while both for model, automotive, panels and other projects. I've found through the years that you are better off as far as being able to duplicate the desired effect when you stick with the paint manufacturer's paints, reducers and any other additives they recommend. Createx has their own line of Reducer and acrylic base which work well with their Createx and Wicked Colors lines, I won't gamble using anything else on either a customer's piece or even something I will be giving someone else. My normal formula is a base of automotive primer, White makes most of their paints pop, I've used Hot Rod Black and or Flatz topcoats of various colors, plain old white is the best. Depending if I am using the transparent colors or the solid colors would be to lay down a pearl "Backer" color reduced 2:1 with Createx Reducer (thinner). Next come the Transparent Colors reduced to 2:1 to begin with, adjusting for coverage either bumping up paint or reducer until the desired effect is achieved. Solid colors go straight onto the Primed base, again testing for coverage and adjusting color or reducer to get the coverage I want. Last comes some sort of clear coat whether it be an automotive clear, Future or other acrylic clear. Createx has an excellent DVD of how to use their products for best results, I've seen it at Hobby Lobby for around $5 or about the price of a bottle of paint. I shared my copy with another person on this board who was struggling with acrylic paints in general and he reported success after seeing how to use the products.

Just saw a set of block hugger type headers in a July 1960 issue of Hot Rod magazine. Honest Charley Speed Shop was selling them for Ford, Chevy, Pontiac, Buick... for $39.95. Difference is the collector shape looks like the early square type versus the later triangle shaped collector. So there's nothing wrong with those headers, (like there ever was). I stopped hanging around over at that Traditional Hot Rod site a while ago, just for the reason that there are too many "Rivet Counters" who seem to think someone else's Hot Rod is their "build by proxy". Even to the point of badgering and bullying the builder if they do something the "In Crowd" doesn't like.. No one owes anyone anything on the parts they prefer to utilize when they assemble their Hot Rod. It's amazing that people get far less excited about the trash used to put together a rat rod than they do when someone decides to put the wrong valve covers, wheels, headers, mufflers, nuts and bolts, or a dreaded fiberglass anything on a Traditionally Themed Hot Rod. As long as it drives and the owner enjoys driving their Traditional Hot Rod who cares!!!

Because they built it without a "Build Committee" dictating which parts they could or couldn't use to build their Hot Rod. Two some people could care less what others think or care about it's their Hot Rod. Three They probably couldn't find a sponsor to bankroll building their Hot Rod. Four it's their Hot Rod! Five The people who chip their gums the most about period correct Hot Rods, Vintage Cars, Brit Cars... don't even own one! Six Maybe they know they're not competing for The Riddler Award and could care less, they just wanted a nice driver...

That would be a late in the war B-17, Boeing painted the full exterior surface on the early ones, then as the missions stretched farther and farther into Germany less and less got painted until at last they were nearly all raw aluminum except for the cloth covered control surfaces. In the interest of weight savings, by that time the Gremans knew they were coming anyway, no need to hide. When I worked for Boeing I worked with a guy who was an Engineer on the predecessor to the B-17 once they delivered the plane to the Army-Air Corps he took a leave of abscence to fly those same B-17's over Eastern Europe. Amazing guy, would only talk about his WW II service when pestered to, had some cool stories to tell. Back to he Rat Rod in question, nothing traditional about that thing, nothing even close to a B-17 even in the Artsy sense of things. There one or two interesting features in the interior, I wouldn't want to see them on anything I'd be driving though. Agree the interior is better than the rest of the car. I like Traditional Hot Rods, I've got tons of little pages and early Hot Rod magazines with examples of them. Don't believe any of them contain anything remotely close to this nightmare!!

Here's my long two cents on the subject: @ Force; you are probably right regarding the carbs, from the time the teams receive them who knows what modifications if any are done to them. I remember reading about Bill Jenkins ordering a ton of Holly Denominator Carbs at a time placing each one on his flow bench, either returning the ones he didn't like or selling them to others. The ones that flowed well we're the ones he would tweet into Race Carbs, Cams,,, until he got the best of the best. That takes a huge pile of cash and the time to work the parts. (If I remember right it was in an early to mid 70's CARS magazine). I've read a lot of articles on Bill Jenkens over the years, he always intriegued me with his methodical approach to his engines, chassis and overall set up. Gotta know the successful Teams are doing lots and lots of R & D work still. I think going to Fuel Injection will help bring some competitiveness back to Pro-Stock. The other step NHRA has to do is get the Big Three back into the picture, if the excitement is there for the fans they'll buy their cars. It's happened before. I hate the Unrecognizable Jelly Bean Blobular Funny Cars with their Vinyl Wraps, maybe it's done for weight reduction (in theory). Just hanging a manufacturer's Badging on them doesn't make them Mustangs, Camaros, Chargers... It just makes them a Blob with a Manufacturers's Badges on them. The fact that Team Force could take a "Mustang" body and call it a "Camaro" and have NHRA buy into it is proof that the Funny Cars are Unrecognizable Blobs. There was a period during 80's through 2000 then the Funny Cars became not so recognizable in name of aerodynamics, until NHRA put their foot down and told the Teams to make the cars look like they were what they said they were supposed to be! NHRA, it's time to put your foot down again, bring back the driver talent that was once needed to drive these cars. Top Fuel, what do you say, they aren't supposed to look like anything production and never did. It might be time to return this Class to the truly "Unlimited" Class it once was, where only the best of the best drove them and survived! NHRA would have to mandate across the board Safety Upgrades to every track the Fuel Cars run on or they don't run there period! It took the death of Dale Ernhardt Sr. to change the walls of the NASCAR tracks, it has seemingly worked. NHRA still hasn't done the things needed to assure Driver's have as safe of a racing surface as possible, that goes for all the "Pro" classes. I never have got all that excited about the Pro-Stock Bikes for some reason, they're sort of an extension of the Sportsman classes. A door slammer without the doors! TV coverage would either be better dropping Pro-Stock Bike and having more interviews, showing close Sportsman Class races, viewer educational stories, how and why things are done, new innovations... Announcers - Mike Dunn does a really good job, especially giving the Driver Perspective which is much needed side of the stories most of the time. He also knows when to shut up and let the story tell itself, something that's needed in sports announcers across the Dial, get tired rather quickly with announcers who just drone on and on. That's what the mute button is for! Back a while ago, years, when TNN was broadcasting the NHRA events they had great announcers who knew what was going on, as well as the relevant sidebar stories to highlight, Bob Frye was really good at that. (He's probably retired or gone by now.)

Puyallup, Bremerton, Kent, Arlington a few times. In addition to the names you mentioned we got to meet guys like Ed "The Ace" McCulloch before the Ace, Herm Petersen, Jim Green - Green Elephant F/C, Gene Berg who ran VW Gassers, major VW performance innovator, Walt and Bucky Austin, Lee Beard before his Crew Cheif days... Bremerton, Kent which became known as Seattle International Raceway now Pacific Raceways are really the only two active Drag Strips in Western Washington. Wish the good old days were back, Drag Racing was so much up close and all around fun for both the Racers and the fans alike. Too bad things had to get so corporate that it just became a side show at the national level, it's still much the same at the regional and local levels.