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I've used used the Createx, Wicked Colors, Autoair and a few other brands of acrylics through airbrush's for successfully some time. Someone gave me some of the Aztek paints a while back I used them once and ended up gifting them to another airbrush artist friend. I thought that they were on the thin side also, requiring changes to air pressure and technique to lay down correctly. The other issue I had was that the colors were overly opaque even laying them down over white; in defense of the Aztek paint I was given, I have no idea right now whether they were opaque colors or not. They just didn't work for the project that I was doing at the time. You really owe it to yourself to learn the how and whys of any particular paint system you intend to use. Createx makes a great tutorial DVD (you can pick up at Hobby Lobby right with the paint) as do others, look up Airbrush Action, Createx, Wicked colors... and airbrushing on You Tube. There are lots of airbrush and custom painters out there who are willing to share their hard gained knowledge about successfully using Acrylics, Enamels, Lacquers and any other paint systems you can think of. Good thing is that it's not like it used to be where Custom Painters did everything in secret, never sharing anything about their techniques, if they did chances they were leaving out some critical step. You almost literally had to pay to get any information!

This looks like an application for vacuum forming a new pair of light covers out of thin clear sheet. You will be using the original covers to make the vacuum forming bucks. This is similar to what the aircraft modelers have been doing forever. The formed parts will have the thin formed clear cover that you are looking for; assuming that was what you were asking in your original version of the question. There should even be a You Tube tutorial or two on how to vacuum form clear model parts out there look up model aircraft canopies.

I'd agree with the Elmer's glue (white) versus a latex based masking fluid. You will be able to remove the Elmer's glue in large pieces with a toothpick. The masking fluid needs friction to rub off or they make a "special" eraser to remove it, I can see it removing "green" or soft paint with it. I use the masking fluid all the time painting watercolor paintings, if you're not careful with the stuff it can take chunks of paper with it, so paint is no match. there is another way around this issue, foil casting. Where you use a small piece of regular kitchen foil to make a crisp impression of the emblem. Next use either epoxy (glue) or epoxy resin to fill and cast the impression of the emblem in the foil. The next step is irreversible, you will be removing the emblem off of the car body completely, if it ghosts when you paint that's ok will help you locate better. Once cured the foil is removed, the back sanded flush then you can go one of two directions here. One would be to cover the casting with BMF, trim and clean up the foil and superglue the emblem in place. Two paint the casting with alclad or similar metalizer paint, glue the emblem onto the body using superglue, make sure to keep the glue away from the paint or it will remove the chrome effect. **Disclamer: This is a pretty easy skill to learn for some, works correctly the first tile in most if not all cases. Since this will permanently remove the emblem off of the model's body, practice on something else first, then make multiple castings of the emblem in case the resin copy breaks. I've used this multiple times in the past and never had issues with it. It's an old trick that didn't originate with me. Hope this helps.

reading throu SAE Issue # 106 the '32 Ford issue, those wheels are probably from the '32 Victoria released as kit no T177 from 1972 "Vintage Fire Chief". I thought I remembered ithe '32 Vicky being issued as some sort of Fireman car, so when I saw it this morning it clicked. Hope this Jared your memory as well.

Art, Looks like the Winfield head in the Rat Rod version, at least it's th same head as the Red Hot Rod version had. Both have such thick chrome that the Winfield can't be read if it's there. Part B of the question: Do any of the aftermarket Resin Casters do the Riley Head in Resin? Since you're going to have to strip the chrome off of the head anyway you might as well start with a clean casting.

Funny thing is that when I first started using rattle can lacquer based automotive primer on models this was never an issue. I highly suspect that the underlying issue is the styrene / plastic being used in the models we are getting now. If you read some of the articles Hank Borger and others penned for Car Mod l and Model Car Science where they were using lacquer paints and primers there is literally no mention of "ghosting" "crazing" of the plastic. Totally frustrating when using the same techniques used for years and having poor results from them, the purple pond is your friend in this case! Apply the primer in thin coats and allow it to fully cure until the next thin coat, (dehydrator works well for this). Build thin coats up until you have enough to level he surface off then sand with 800 -'1000 grit. If the color coat has any lacquer in it at all then you will need to slowly build your color coat up until there is sufficient color coat to polish out. Same goes for clear coat, mist the coats on until you have a decent amount of clear built up, then if you need to you can probably get away with a heavier coat. It wouldn't hurt while you are at it to apply a thin coat of future or acrylic spray between plastic and primer. The issue is that the lacquer in the primer is staying volatile because all the solvents are not fully evaporated off, once the surface flashes off then the solvents are trapped. The ghosting we see is probably the result of the solvents trying to find a way out, can't get through all the paint so it tries to go through the plastic swelling the plastic and we see ghosting. If you try to lay down a heavy coat of primer, unless you get really lucky on top of the ghosting you will see crazing of the plastic. Ive always heard this condition called "Lacquer Burn" which is a good term for it because it can cause the plastic itself to become brittle.

That's coming out really nice, '37 - '40 Ford Coupes are really difficult to get the proportions down exactly right as in its not really a measurement thing it's a looks right thing. Looks like you've got the "Looks Right Thing" down pat! ive seen a '40 chopped, they added the material in the middle of the roof to stretch it, never looks right proportionally. Chopping is supposed to make the car look sleeker, not clunky like some do.

Well, looks love you've got a start. Also looks like a case of lacquer burn to that plastic too, might have to do a skim coat of filler to bury it, seems to come back like ghosting emblems. When you prime it make sure that you build it up in thin coats, (I've had it happen with primer by trying to do a heavy first coat). For me the trick is to get the primer flashed off and then dried very quickly. Back to your Forty, what are you doing for an engine? If the Buick Nailhead is still there it cleans up really well for '60's Nostalgia style if you use the triple carb version, the "Custom" Racing exhaust headers can be cleaned up and trimmed off to meet up with the dual exhaust systemm and looks good. Flathead can be cleaned up as well, maybe toss in a resin intake and some hi-compression heads, again use or fabricate a dual exhaust and you have another winning combo. Dressed up small block Chev, Olds, Caddy, Y-block all would look great in that engine compartment as well. Keep this one going, it's off to a great start! I have an AMT 40 Coupe on my bench right now too, Buick engine, Modelhaus Chrome Reverse wheels whitewall slicks and fronts, dechromed dropped front axle, no hood, went with a teal green which is close to a stock 40 color. Done up '60's Hot Rod style, simple understated forty. For a model kit that's been around since the early 60's it can be built up to make a really nice 40 DeLuxe, same with the Tudor Sedan.

Sounds like we have the same mailman, or maybe brothers! Most of the time our mailman gets everything in the box. Just likes to shred everything as he's putting it in there, probably reasons that it fits better. Not kidding either, this guy regularly tears the cover off of magazines, large, small it doesn't matter. I suspected that it was just lousy handling along the way, until the last issue of Rod &Custom had 75% of the back cover torn off, there were parts of cover wedged between the wall and floor section of the box!! To his defense he is running two Rural Mail Routes and the post office isn't hiring anyone so everyone is running their bunz off!!

R & M of Maryland, is the bar that all other resin casters are measured by. Norm is busy every time I've ordered from him, that's a good thing too he is able to support his small business with our orders. You get your order in, get in line in the orders while Norm casts each to order. You are getting fresh resin cast parts every time. Normal turnaround is 3 - 6 +/- weeks depending on backlog ahead of your order. Norm's quality control is 110+% great, flash is zero to none or about what you'd expect from styrene. I normally like to order with a larger order every time figuring if I'm going to make an order that it may as well be worth Norm's time, ($150 +) per order. I figure that if we don't support the really good resin casters well that they will go under just like too many of the early guys did. Not to mention, Norm is just plain good, honest people who stands behind his work! In fact I have an order in the mail right now, should be here by Monday. I'm beginning to salivate already!!

Even if you put them on eBay you could always scan them and send the scan to the Drastic Plastic site so they can get them online. I've been helped in the past by the hosted instruction sheets so I'm a big proponent of helping the clubs who host them. BTW In the tips section I have started a thread with links to Revell and Drastic Plastic's Instruction Sheets, so if you have any more links to clubs or manufacturers who have instructions online add them please.

Absolutely love the look of an Un-Chopped Model T Coupe, for some reason they look better to me than one with a Mailbox Slot Chop, they don't look all that bad with a real mild chop say 4 - 6 inches. Like the purple glass sets it apart, gives it a '60's flavor as do the wheels and tires, they would set this one apart as a higher end built Hot Rod of say magazine quality. Just like now custom wheels cost a bit go money which is why you see so many Hot Rods even really nice ones running Chrome Reverse Wheels. Your stance looks right on the money! Keep it up on this one.

Please include any links to copies of model car instructions whether on the Manufacturer's Website such as the ones on Revell's website. Suggest that if you have instructions laying around that you contact the Clubs who host them on their websites to see what kind of format they accept copies of instruction sheets. Helps us all out. Revell/monogram/Hobico - http://www.revell.com/support/instructions.html Drastic Plastic Model Car Club - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/

Yes, the '57 Del Rio does include the McCuloch Supercharger parts, same as the Fireball Roberts version, but no instructions to assemble it. http://www.revell.com/support/instructions.html These instructions are also the manuals.hobico.com mentioned. I found the instruction for the supercharged 312 on the Revell website of all places, looked like the the 57 Ford Custom would have included the McCuloch supercharger but it didn't at least by the instructions it doesn't. The Mac' Supercharger was included in the jFireball Robertts version, I would have thought the other way around. 85-4283 85428300200 1/25 1957 Ford Custom 2 'n 1 3.8 MB Download 85-4024 85402400200 1/25 "Fireball" Roberts '57 Ford 4.1 MB Download Thanks to espo, mike 51, Dave Lindsey - SoCalCarCulture, oldnslow, JTalmage. For chiming in. Even though I found the instructions myself before checking this post, you were all of great help. Guess this something we need to look at creating is a list of urls which have instructions for model kits, which needs to include club sites like Drastic Plastic who has scanned instructions on their website.

I have the Revell '57 Del Rio kit which includes the complete McCuloch Blower from the Fairlane kit as well. Does anyone have the assembly instructions for the blower to add to the Del Rio?

Here's what I used the first time I saw those Micromark Pick Up Sticks: Glue Dot - sliced in quarters or thirds. Stick - use either a toothpick or a used Microbrush stick, strip off the brush part off it leaves a really sharp pointed tip. Assembly - Stick the cut portion of the Glue Dot onto either the Toothpick or Microbrush Tip. KEEP FINGERS CLEAR! Usage - Pick up the small part onto the Glue Dot, place on model as required. Keep Fingers Clear!

Years ago an older modeling friend told me they were using a mix of Artist's Gesso and White Acrylic paint, which may have been out of the tube back then. (Certainly the craft type acrylics would work.) the Gesso gives a really bright flat white, the Acrylic gives the flexibility for normal assembly handling and installing onto the wheels. I never used the tip because I wasn't building white walled subjects at the time. I attest to seeing the results of the mix. Unfortunately the benefactor is now modeling in the afterlife so I can't ask hIm. Not certain of the longevity of this trick because I have no idea where his models went. Don't see any reason why it shouldn't work like straight acrylic white, it's just adding more white pigment (Titanium Oxide) solids. I'd start with a 30/70 ratio of gesso/acrylic and work from there. This is probably a tip that if you do use that you may wish to split the gesso with others if you're not already using it for artwork because of the container size. I think the smallest I've been able to pick up for art projects has been like half-pint. (I'll have to check to see if I still have some gesso that hasn't dried up in the bottle and give this a whirl.) **If I am not mistaken, White-Out was originally made of gesso mixed with a solvent (MEK) so that it would dry rapidly.**

oh yeah I got the Badger Paint Mixer off of EvilBay for under $10 including shipping

jb always comes up with the good ideas! Years ago when McDonalds had the plastic coffee stirrers that looked like a little spoon. (Coke spoon I heard, never did that though. The carbonation bothers my sinuses!!) Those worked really well for stirring the settled pigment off of the bottom of paint bottles. Now days I use one of those Badger battery operated paint mixers, gets right down there to the bottom of things and really gets the metallic suspended like it originally was.

Thanks for posting.

Sorry, even though I grew up as a Stooge fan, that box art doesn't do it for me. I thought the '40 Ford Delivery was a "Rip Off" on the Stooge name, Curly's Gasser is even more so. I won't be buying "Curly's Gasser", I'll wait for some other version to come out or buy a previous version. After reading about the extremely ugly fighting amoung the heirs of the Howard Brothers I will not buy anything of new manufacture with the "Three Stooges" name or likeness attached to it. By doing so you are perpetuating the moronic feud and greed of mostly grandchildren who were not around when their grandfathers earned their legacy.

The Eddie Dye Roadster has been one of my favorite early cars for a long time, probably from the first time I saw it in an old magazine! The welded doors on this car were probably for more than styling, those Model A doors tended to pop open at speed especially on unpaved surfaces, (this was later addressed with Bearclaw latches). Have fun, I'll be watching your progress! edited due to autocorrect.

You must be building the Special Edition "Jeff Dunham Baby Blue Prius" complete with yappy Chihuahua!! But he's a manly Chihuahua, too bad the Prius isn't!!! Maybe you could put a little "Walter" in the trunk, so you could say it does run on gas...

interesting, but I wasn't even thinking of gray market cars, most people that I know who have brought a 25+ year old vehicle into the States from Europe have brought in Collector vehicles not gray market vehicles. These were the Federal Statutes we worked to when we imported our Mini in from the U.K. To the Port of Tacoma in 2000. We then took the U.K. Title/proof of ownership to my local State DOL where they swapped the title into our name, no inspection, no emissions check, nothing, the Customs said it was good to go so the DOL accepted it. They even gave me back the original title as a collectible piece to go with the car, I still have it in my safe. ( I know of at least a dozen Mini's brought into the U.S. From both U.K and Japan since then, there was no hassle, no Federalizing of emissions equipment; the only thing checked on the vehicle and paperwork was that it was 25+ years old, being an early '70's Mini there was no issue whatsoever, not even the RHD was a question.) It is extremely simple to import a collector vehicle into the U.S., many of the U.S. Customs Agents who work with vehicle importation are quite familiar with what they are looking for and what they are looking at. I'm not saying that there was not some Customs research along the way that I may have been unaware of, just none that I am aware of. The last year that the Mini's were imported to Dealerships in the U.S. Was 1967 then discontinued for supposed safety issues as were a few other Foreign car makes, most likely for taking a bite out of Detroit's sales.

you can import any car you want to as long as it's 25 years old or older under, collector car status. So if whatever Model Nissan you are looking at isn't rusted into the ground you're in luck! Can't you find someone to trade dash and pedal-box with? Most cars that are sold in RHD or LHD markets are set up so the switch is possible, with some work.